Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

This is spawned from the earlier thread requesting
advice for the B & S engine repair...

I've an old FMC Bolens 5 rototiller I purchased through
the local classifieds two years ago. B & S 5 HP engine works reasonably
well except I think something on the pull start (clutch ??)
is going as it emits a high pitch screech every 20 seconds or so.
At that moment, the pull start cord unwinds itself 6 - 8 inches then
retracts. It only lasts a half second.

I'll check the other links suggested the previous thread however
if anyone has more specific knowledge on this mfg.

I've searched the web quite a bit and have found many FMC tractor site.

Nothing pertaining to this mfg's rototillers.

Thanks for any pointers,

Jeff

Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil
spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the
spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the
spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball
and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back
into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that.

Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

I think Ariens Tillers bought them out. Try Troy built also. I used to sell
Bolens tractors and mowers in the 70's.
"FarmerDill" wrote in message
...
B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat
coil
spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in
the
spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on
the
spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the
ball
and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop
back
into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure
that.

Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

Ah, thank you.

BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different
search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root
page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!!

http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html

I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use
it and hold it for me...

Thanks again,

Jeff


FarmerDill wrote:

B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil
spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the
spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the
spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball
and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back
into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that.

Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

Be careful with the recoil pull start mechanism there is a big coil spring
in there that can jump out and unwind and hurt you. Take the tiller to a
shop to fix it or find the engine type and look for the model and serial on
the engine.
"jhultman" wrote in message
...
Ah, thank you.

BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different
search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root
page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!!

http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html

I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use
it and hold it for me...

Thanks again,

Jeff


FarmerDill wrote:

B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a
flat coil
spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in
the
spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension
on the
spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the
ball
and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop
back
into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure
that.

Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

Thanks for the safety tip. I'll get an owners manual and
the proper manual for the book. I want learn how to do it.
This won't be the only pull start motor I have. I've two
small outboards as well. Of course the procedures probably
are different. I have this quirk about taking things to a shop
when I can do them myself. If I have the right tools and a manual
I'll take a chance if I don't think I'm over my head. I'll buy
the tool if needed. With the labor I'm saving from paying someone
else. The big trade off is time...

I've looked for the model and s/n on the motor. I do not see one
on the visible exterior. There is one obvious spot where a sticker
has come off from heat. I'm hoping to find the info stamped somewhere
underneath the cowlings in back.

Jeff

FOW wrote:

Be careful with the recoil pull start mechanism there is a big coil spring
in there that can jump out and unwind and hurt you. Take the tiller to a
shop to fix it or find the engine type and look for the model and serial on
the engine.
"jhultman" wrote in message
...
Ah, thank you.

BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different
search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root
page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!!

http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html

I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use
it and hold it for me...

Thanks again,

Jeff


FarmerDill wrote:

B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a
flat coil
spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in
the
spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension
on the
spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the
ball
and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop
back
into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure
that.

Pointers to old tiller parts...
 

Should be stamped into the motor
"jhultman" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the safety tip. I'll get an owners manual and
the proper manual for the book. I want learn how to do it.
This won't be the only pull start motor I have. I've two
small outboards as well. Of course the procedures probably
are different. I have this quirk about taking things to a shop
when I can do them myself. If I have the right tools and a manual
I'll take a chance if I don't think I'm over my head. I'll buy
the tool if needed. With the labor I'm saving from paying someone
else. The big trade off is time...

I've looked for the model and s/n on the motor. I do not see one
on the visible exterior. There is one obvious spot where a sticker
has come off from heat. I'm hoping to find the info stamped somewhere
underneath the cowlings in back.

Jeff

FOW wrote:

Be careful with the recoil pull start mechanism there is a big coil
spring
in there that can jump out and unwind and hurt you. Take the tiller to a
shop to fix it or find the engine type and look for the model and serial
on
the engine.
"jhultman" wrote in message
...
Ah, thank you.

BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different
search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root
page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!!

http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html

I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use
it and hold it for me...

Thanks again,

Jeff


FarmerDill wrote:

B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops
are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses
a
flat coil
spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack
in
the
spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more
tension
on the
spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes
the
ball
and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to
drop
back
into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually
cure
that.