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#1
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
This is spawned from the earlier thread requesting advice for the B & S engine repair... I've an old FMC Bolens 5 rototiller I purchased through the local classifieds two years ago. B & S 5 HP engine works reasonably well except I think something on the pull start (clutch ??) is going as it emits a high pitch screech every 20 seconds or so. At that moment, the pull start cord unwinds itself 6 - 8 inches then retracts. It only lasts a half second. I'll check the other links suggested the previous thread however if anyone has more specific knowledge on this mfg. I've searched the web quite a bit and have found many FMC tractor site. Nothing pertaining to this mfg's rototillers. Thanks for any pointers, Jeff |
#2
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are
everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that. |
#3
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
I think Ariens Tillers bought them out. Try Troy built also. I used to sell
Bolens tractors and mowers in the 70's. "FarmerDill" wrote in message ... B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that. |
#4
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
Ah, thank you.
BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!! http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use it and hold it for me... Thanks again, Jeff FarmerDill wrote: B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that. |
#5
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
Be careful with the recoil pull start mechanism there is a big coil spring
in there that can jump out and unwind and hurt you. Take the tiller to a shop to fix it or find the engine type and look for the model and serial on the engine. "jhultman" wrote in message ... Ah, thank you. BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!! http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use it and hold it for me... Thanks again, Jeff FarmerDill wrote: B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that. |
#6
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
Thanks for the safety tip. I'll get an owners manual and
the proper manual for the book. I want learn how to do it. This won't be the only pull start motor I have. I've two small outboards as well. Of course the procedures probably are different. I have this quirk about taking things to a shop when I can do them myself. If I have the right tools and a manual I'll take a chance if I don't think I'm over my head. I'll buy the tool if needed. With the labor I'm saving from paying someone else. The big trade off is time... I've looked for the model and s/n on the motor. I do not see one on the visible exterior. There is one obvious spot where a sticker has come off from heat. I'm hoping to find the info stamped somewhere underneath the cowlings in back. Jeff FOW wrote: Be careful with the recoil pull start mechanism there is a big coil spring in there that can jump out and unwind and hurt you. Take the tiller to a shop to fix it or find the engine type and look for the model and serial on the engine. "jhultman" wrote in message ... Ah, thank you. BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!! http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use it and hold it for me... Thanks again, Jeff FarmerDill wrote: B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that. |
#7
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Pointers to old tiller parts...
Should be stamped into the motor
"jhultman" wrote in message ... Thanks for the safety tip. I'll get an owners manual and the proper manual for the book. I want learn how to do it. This won't be the only pull start motor I have. I've two small outboards as well. Of course the procedures probably are different. I have this quirk about taking things to a shop when I can do them myself. If I have the right tools and a manual I'll take a chance if I don't think I'm over my head. I'll buy the tool if needed. With the labor I'm saving from paying someone else. The big trade off is time... I've looked for the model and s/n on the motor. I do not see one on the visible exterior. There is one obvious spot where a sticker has come off from heat. I'm hoping to find the info stamped somewhere underneath the cowlings in back. Jeff FOW wrote: Be careful with the recoil pull start mechanism there is a big coil spring in there that can jump out and unwind and hurt you. Take the tiller to a shop to fix it or find the engine type and look for the model and serial on the engine. "jhultman" wrote in message ... Ah, thank you. BTW. I found this last night surfing and trying different search verbage... trim back the (TILLER_MANUALS.html) for the root page. Like it says, Keep those old machines going!!! http://www.geocities.com/pastbolens/TILLER_MANUALS.html I want an old tractor now. No space but my father in-law can use it and hold it for me... Thanks again, Jeff FarmerDill wrote: B&S engines are not tiller specific. Briggs dealers, repair shops are everywhere. Your described problem is the recoil starter, This uses a flat coil spring to rewind the starter cord. sometimes there is too much slack in the spring, common when the starter cord is replaced. Putting more tension on the spring before attaching the cord will solve that problem, Sometimes the ball and slot mechanism ( pawl) will become too dirty for the balls to drop back into their running slots. A couple of shots of WD 40 will usually cure that. |
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