Applying lime in the summer
Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) |
Applying lime in the summer
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill PS Aside Malathion and Salmon. http://www.registerguard.com/csp/cms...viewStory.cls? cid=126200&sid=4&fid=1 -- Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA |
Applying lime in the summer
On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed |
Applying lime in the summer
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote: In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime what do they offer? Bill -- Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA |
Applying lime in the summer
On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote:
In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote: In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime what do they offer? Bill Bill, Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium Oxide). No way!! What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often referred to as garden lime. Ed |
Applying lime in the summer
In article
, Bill wrote: Malathion and Salmon. http://www.registerguard.com/csp/cms...viewStory.cls? cid=126200&sid=4&fid=1 Most pesticide use could be drastically reduced by crop rotation since the problem arises from planting the same thing, in the same spot, year after year after year. IPM could reduce pesticide use even more, but what we get are GMOs that make their own insecticides (Bt), or that encourage the use of even more herbicides (Round-Up Ready). Bt crops will create Bt-resistant insects and further reduce bio-diversity by the indiscriminate killing of non-target insects. "Round-Up Ready" crops will continue to kill top-soil leading to further soil erosion and pollution of our water. Large crops reduce crop prices and hurt farmers. Our farm subsidy programs encourage the production more calories than we can consume, which is where the billion$ spent adverti$ing (low cost/high profit) processed foods, end up adding inches to our waistlines, and robbing us of our health. What kind of nation would this be if that advertising budget promoted heathy nutrition? The same subsidized food isn't any better when it is exported and ruins agriculture in countries like Mexico or Haiti. Instead of electing a President and a Congress, the American people would be better off hiring their own lobbyists because, right now, nobody listens to what the parents of this country want. -- Billy Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html |
Applying lime in the summer
In article , Ed ex@directory
wrote: On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote: In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote: In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime what do they offer? Bill Bill, Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium Oxide). No way!! What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often referred to as garden lime. Ed Hi Ed! Any thoughts about Dolomite vs. garden lime ? Ps Good to have a chemist about. Bill who worked one on one with a chemists for 35 years with a few engineers near the end. -- Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA |
Applying lime in the summer
On 14/08/08 17:31, Bill wrote:
In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote: In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote: In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime what do they offer? Bill Bill, Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium Oxide). No way!! What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often referred to as garden lime. Ed Hi Ed! Any thoughts about Dolomite vs. garden lime ? Bill mate, In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay. It works for me. But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all. Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use garden lime on the Brassica bed. Ed |
Applying lime in the summer
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 17:31, Bill wrote: In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote: In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote: In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime what do they offer? Bill Bill, Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium Oxide). No way!! What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often referred to as garden lime. Ed Hi Ed! Any thoughts about Dolomite vs. garden lime ? Bill mate, In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay. It works for me. But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all. Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use garden lime on the Brassica bed. Ed Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries. How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil already low pH? I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5." http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm -- Billy Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html |
Applying lime in the summer
Ed wrote:
On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote: In article , Cheryl Isaak wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement. However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for sure. Bill Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ? Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime? Ed Wiki provides a good summary: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lime_(mineral) I'm a retired research chemist myself but would not want to use calcium oxide or hydroxide outside the lab. Oven cleaners also scare me as a drop of strong caustic in the eye can blind you. For gardening I use the limestone granules as dust is messy. I recall a few years ago that the purest calcium carbonate for use as a plastic filler only cost 5 cents a pound. I think the ground up rock was only about a penny a pound. Frank |
Applying lime in the summer
Bill mate, In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay. It works for me. But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all. Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use garden lime on the Brassica bed. Ed Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries. How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil already low pH? I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5." http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm Bill, I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes, brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions. My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main reason being to protect against club root disease. Ed |
Applying lime in the summer
On 8/14/08 7:55 AM, in article ,
"Cheryl Isaak" wrote: Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow coverage and weather in general But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from chemicals) or the neighbor's yard. So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as usual. Cheryl (southern NH) Skipping all the replies - I think I'll grab some "garden lime" as a quick fix and do the dolomite in the late fall. Thanks all Cheryl |
Applying lime in the summer
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote: Bill mate, In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay. It works for me. But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all. Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use garden lime on the Brassica bed. Ed Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries. How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil already low pH? I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5." http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm Bill, I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes, brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions. My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main reason being to protect against club root disease. Ed From the University of Rhode Island http://www.urimga.org/fact_sheets/Cl...0Crucifers.pdf € Liming soil to pH 7.2 or above "may" (quotation marks are mine) be helpful. Raising soil pH too high, however, may interfere with the growth of succeeding crops other than crucifers. This is the aspect that I was worried about. For example, according to my "Vegetable Gardener's Bible", potatoes like a pH from 5.0 to 6.5 and carrots, 5.5 to 6.5. You are probably all over this but I found the following to be of interest as well, http://www.organicgardening.com/feat...3-1189,00.html -- Billy Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html |
Applying lime in the summer
On 15/08/08 18:33, Billy wrote:
In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: Bill mate, In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay. It works for me. But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all. Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use garden lime on the Brassica bed. Ed Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries. How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil already low pH? I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5." http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm Bill, I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes, brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions. My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main reason being to protect against club root disease. Ed From the University of Rhode Island http://www.urimga.org/fact_sheets/Cl...0Crucifers.pdf € Liming soil to pH 7.2 or above "may" (quotation marks are mine) be helpful. Raising soil pH too high, however, may interfere with the growth of succeeding crops other than crucifers. This is the aspect that I was worried about. For example, according to my "Vegetable Gardener's Bible", potatoes like a pH from 5.0 to 6.5 and carrots, 5.5 to 6.5. You are probably all over this but I found the following to be of interest as well, http://www.organicgardening.com/feat...3-1189,00.html Oh Billy boy, I like the sound of you... but this is getting too technical!! I don't worry about all that pH stuff. I just grow what my soil is up for. So that means most things except acid loving plants like blueberries. Ed |
Applying lime in the summer
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote: On 15/08/08 18:33, Billy wrote: In article , Ed ex@directory wrote: Bill mate, In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay. It works for me. But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all. Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use garden lime on the Brassica bed. Ed Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries. How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil already low pH? I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5." http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm Bill, I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes, brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions. My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main reason being to protect against club root disease. Ed From the University of Rhode Island http://www.urimga.org/fact_sheets/Cl...0Crucifers.pdf ¤ Liming soil to pH 7.2 or above "may" (quotation marks are mine) be helpful. Raising soil pH too high, however, may interfere with the growth of succeeding crops other than crucifers. This is the aspect that I was worried about. For example, according to my "Vegetable Gardener's Bible", potatoes like a pH from 5.0 to 6.5 and carrots, 5.5 to 6.5. You are probably all over this but I found the following to be of interest as well, http://www.organicgardening.com/feat...3-1189,00.html Oh Billy boy, I like the sound of you... but this is getting too technical!! I don't worry about all that pH stuff. I just grow what my soil is up for. So that means most things except acid loving plants like blueberries. Ed Hey, if it works, don't mess with it. I'm doing potatoes for the first time this year and that is why your adjustments caught my eye. The only other acid loving plants that I have are blueberries so I planted the potatoes next to them. This is an area that I am trying to adjust the pH down using sulfur powder. I'll probably just keep planting the two together until I have a problem with the potatoes ;O) -- Billy Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html |
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