Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)

In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)

An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for
sure.

Bill

PS Aside

Malathion and Salmon.

http://www.registerguard.com/csp/cms...viewStory.cls?
cid=126200&sid=4&fid=1

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)

An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for
sure.

Bill


Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed

In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is
running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a
good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I
just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)

An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for
sure.

Bill


Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed

Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime
what do they offer?

Bill

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is
running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a
good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I
just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)
An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for
sure.

Bill

Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed

Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime
what do they offer?

Bill


Bill,


Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium
Oxide). No way!!

What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an
industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then
ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often
referred to as garden lime.


Ed

In article
,
Bill wrote:

Malathion and Salmon.

http://www.registerguard.com/csp/cms...viewStory.cls?
cid=126200&sid=4&fid=1

Most pesticide use could be drastically reduced by crop rotation
since the problem arises from planting the same thing, in the
same spot, year after year after year. IPM could reduce pesticide
use even more, but what we get are GMOs that make their own
insecticides (Bt), or that encourage the use of even more herbicides
(Round-Up Ready). Bt crops will create Bt-resistant insects and
further reduce bio-diversity by the indiscriminate killing of
non-target insects. "Round-Up Ready" crops will continue to kill
top-soil leading to further soil erosion and pollution of our water.
Large crops reduce crop prices and hurt farmers. Our farm subsidy
programs encourage the production more calories than we can consume,
which is where the billion$ spent adverti$ing (low cost/high profit)
processed foods, end up adding inches to our waistlines, and robbing
us of our health. What kind of nation would this be if that
advertising budget promoted heathy nutrition?

The same subsidized food isn't any better when it is exported and
ruins agriculture in countries like Mexico or Haiti.

Instead of electing a President and a Congress, the American
people would be better off hiring their own lobbyists because,
right now, nobody listens to what the parents of this country want.
--

Billy
Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html

In article , Ed ex@directory
wrote:

On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is
running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a
good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I
just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally,
I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I
added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)
An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for
sure.

Bill

Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed

Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime
what do they offer?

Bill


Bill,


Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium
Oxide). No way!!

What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an
industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then
ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often
referred to as garden lime.


Ed
Hi Ed!

Any thoughts about Dolomite vs. garden lime ?

Ps Good to have a chemist about.

Bill who worked one on one with a chemists for 35 years with a few
engineers near the end.

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

On 14/08/08 17:31, Bill wrote:
In article , Ed ex@directory
wrote:

On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is
running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a
good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I
just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally,
I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I
added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)
An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test for
sure.

Bill

Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed
Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime
what do they offer?

Bill

Bill,


Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium
Oxide). No way!!

What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an
industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then
ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often
referred to as garden lime.


Ed
Hi Ed!

Any thoughts about Dolomite vs. garden lime ?


Bill mate,

In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to
grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there
in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a
big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a
limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay.
It works for me.

But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So
then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all.

Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to
break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use
garden lime on the Brassica bed.

Ed

In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 14/08/08 17:31, Bill wrote:
In article , Ed ex@directory
wrote:

On 14/08/08 17:02, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is
running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a
good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and
I
just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season.
Generally,
I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I
added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away
from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)
An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand and
granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test
for
sure.

Bill

Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed
Well Ed If I go to my local garden center and ask for 20 lbs. of lime
what do they offer?

Bill

Bill,


Well, I am pretty sure that they do NOT sell you quicklime (Calcium
Oxide). No way!!

What you are almost certainly getting is slaked lime, which is an
industrial product obtained by adding water to quicklime and is then
ground down to a white powder. In common parlance this is also often
referred to as garden lime.


Ed
Hi Ed!

Any thoughts about Dolomite vs. garden lime ?


Bill mate,

In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to
grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there
in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a
big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a
limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay.
It works for me.

But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So
then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all.

Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to
break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use
garden lime on the Brassica bed.

Ed

Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the
other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes
you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other
plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries.
How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil
already low pH?

I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH
of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a
slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5."

http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm
--

Billy
Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html

Ed wrote:
On 14/08/08 15:08, Bill wrote:
In article ,
Cheryl Isaak wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is
running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is
a good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and
I just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season.
Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I
added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)

An issue of the type of lime used may matter. Quicklime is quick to
assimilate and dissipate . Whereas dolomite is slower and breaks down
slower. We always went with the dolomite type along with green sand
and granite dust. The intent was long term improvement.
However our area is VERY acid and I am sure our soil can use a test
for sure.

Bill


Speaking as a research chemist , you surely don't use quicklime ?
Quicklime (aka calcium oxide) is extremely caustic; it can burn the
skin and cause other damages. Maybe you mean slaked lime?

Ed



Wiki provides a good summary:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lime_(mineral)

I'm a retired research chemist myself but would not want to use calcium
oxide or hydroxide outside the lab. Oven cleaners also scare me as a
drop of strong caustic in the eye can blind you.

For gardening I use the limestone granules as dust is messy. I recall a
few years ago that the purest calcium carbonate for use as a plastic
filler only cost 5 cents a pound. I think the ground up rock was only
about a penny a pound.

Frank

Bill mate,

In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to
grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there
in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a
big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a
limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay.
It works for me.

But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So
then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all.

Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to
break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use
garden lime on the Brassica bed.

Ed

Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the
other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes
you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other
plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries.
How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil
already low pH?

I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH
of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a
slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5."

http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm


Bill,

I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes,
brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions.

My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main
reason being to protect against club root disease.

Ed

On 8/14/08 7:55 AM, in article ,
"Cheryl Isaak" wrote:

Not that I have really had a summer here, but the sheeps' sorrel is running
rampant in the lawn and the garden and the quickest way to fix it is a good
heavy application of lime. Usually this happens in the late fall and I just
broadcast lime and in the spring, I'm all set for the season. Generally, I
only have to lime the garden once every 2-3 years, depending on snow
coverage and weather in general

But, it's August, it's been raining buckets and I suspect anything I added
in the spring got washed into the stream (which is why I stay away from
chemicals) or the neighbor's yard.


So - would you lime now and hope or just weed and lime in late fall as
usual.

Cheryl
(southern NH)

Skipping all the replies - I think I'll grab some "garden lime" as a quick
fix and do the dolomite in the late fall.

Thanks all

Cheryl

In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

Bill mate,

In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to
grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there
in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a
big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a
limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay.
It works for me.

But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So
then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all.

Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to
break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use
garden lime on the Brassica bed.

Ed

Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the
other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes
you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other
plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries.
How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil
already low pH?

I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH
of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a
slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5."

http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm


Bill,

I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes,
brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions.

My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main
reason being to protect against club root disease.

Ed

From the University of Rhode Island
http://www.urimga.org/fact_sheets/Cl...0Crucifers.pdf

€ Liming soil to pH 7.2 or above "may" (quotation marks are mine)
be helpful. Raising soil pH too high, however, may interfere
with the growth of succeeding crops other than crucifers.

This is the aspect that I was worried about. For example,
according to my "Vegetable Gardener's Bible", potatoes like a
pH from 5.0 to 6.5 and carrots, 5.5 to 6.5.

You are probably all over this but I found the following to be of
interest as well,
http://www.organicgardening.com/feat...3-1189,00.html
--

Billy
Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html

On 15/08/08 18:33, Billy wrote:
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

Bill mate,

In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to
grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there
in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a
big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a
limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay.
It works for me.

But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So
then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all.

Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to
break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use
garden lime on the Brassica bed.

Ed
Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the
other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes
you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other
plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries.
How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil
already low pH?

I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH
of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a
slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5."

http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm

Bill,

I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes,
brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions.

My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main
reason being to protect against club root disease.

Ed

From the University of Rhode Island
http://www.urimga.org/fact_sheets/Cl...0Crucifers.pdf

€ Liming soil to pH 7.2 or above "may" (quotation marks are mine)
be helpful. Raising soil pH too high, however, may interfere
with the growth of succeeding crops other than crucifers.

This is the aspect that I was worried about. For example,
according to my "Vegetable Gardener's Bible", potatoes like a
pH from 5.0 to 6.5 and carrots, 5.5 to 6.5.

You are probably all over this but I found the following to be of
interest as well,
http://www.organicgardening.com/feat...3-1189,00.html

Oh Billy boy,

I like the sound of you... but this is getting too technical!! I don't
worry about all that pH stuff. I just grow what my soil is up for. So
that means most things except acid loving plants like blueberries.

Ed

In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

On 15/08/08 18:33, Billy wrote:
In article ,
Ed ex@directory wrote:

Bill mate,

In my case, I am just altering the pH of the soil where I am going to
grow Brassicas (cabbages, calabrese etc). So I spread garden lime there
in the late autumn and, when I plant up in the following spring, I put a
big trowel-full of lime in each planting hole. Brassicas prefer a
limey soil and the lime is supposedly good for keeping club root at bay.
It works for me.

But I only do that in the Brassica bed as I practice crop rotation. So
then, the potato bed will NOT get any lime at all.

Hence, I do not use Dolomite which is long lasting and very very slow to
break down. I practice a 5 yr crop rotation on my ground and only use
garden lime on the Brassica bed.

Ed
Are you saying that the brassica bed is fixed in place but the
other crops are rotated in their beds? Since you grow potatoes
you must know that they require a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. the only other
plant that I've found that likes this pH range is blueberries.
How do you deal with this in your crop rotation or is your soil
already low pH?

I only ask because,"Brassicas, in general, grow best in soils with a pH
of 6.0 - 7.0 with the exception of collards and mustard that prefer a
slightly lower range and cabbage that tolerates a pH of up to 7.5."

http://eap.mcgill.ca/CSCC_3.htm

Bill,

I have a 5 year crop rotation which includes the brassicas i.e legumes,
brassicas, potatoes, root crops, onions.

My soil is about pH 7. I only add lime to the brassica bed , the main
reason being to protect against club root disease.

Ed

From the University of Rhode Island
http://www.urimga.org/fact_sheets/Cl...0Crucifers.pdf

¤ Liming soil to pH 7.2 or above "may" (quotation marks are mine)
be helpful. Raising soil pH too high, however, may interfere
with the growth of succeeding crops other than crucifers.

This is the aspect that I was worried about. For example,
according to my "Vegetable Gardener's Bible", potatoes like a
pH from 5.0 to 6.5 and carrots, 5.5 to 6.5.

You are probably all over this but I found the following to be of
interest as well,
http://www.organicgardening.com/feat...3-1189,00.html

Oh Billy boy,

I like the sound of you... but this is getting too technical!! I don't
worry about all that pH stuff. I just grow what my soil is up for. So
that means most things except acid loving plants like blueberries.

Ed

Hey, if it works, don't mess with it. I'm doing potatoes for the
first time this year and that is why your adjustments caught my
eye. The only other acid loving plants that I have are blueberries
so I planted the potatoes next to them. This is an area that I am trying
to adjust the pH down using sulfur powder. I'll probably just keep
planting the two together until I have a problem with the potatoes
;O)
--

Billy
Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1009916.html