Ordered my seedlings from the state about an hour ago. 200 seedlings,
including the "quail bundle". I am trying a new one this year: tulip
poplar.

wish me luck

cheers

oz

Major Oz


Great news!!!!!!

Couple of suggestions.
You could prune a little off the tips of roots and soak them in
microelements and water over night.
Other than that -
1. Plant them at the depth the roots are coming off the trunk.
2. Mulch with composted wood chips and leaves. Keep the mulch back about
6" from trunk. Keep the mulch flat and no more than 3-4" deep. The further
out you mulch the best. You are preparing conditions conducive for root
growth and stimulating beneficial micros.
3. Water at the tree real good two times. Then begin to water away from
trunk as to stimulate the roots to grow out from trunk for water.
4. Wait until after first growing season for fertilizing and pruning.
5. Do prune a very small amount off the root tips.

Why?
1. Too often, if you plant deep, the roots will come straight up and girdle
the tree eventually.
2. When mulch touches trunk you increase chances for rodent and pathogen
injury. Also with the dark moist area created at trunk, it also is
conducive for root growth in circles (moist and dark).
3. Self explanatory.
4. Applying nitrogen will take energy from tree and it would be better for
the energy going to places the tree requires it. Pruning takes energy away
as well and energy would be best going into root growth. Everything
requires energy.
5. pruning these tips will allow the tree to get its only free drink.
Normally liquids (water with essential elements dissolved) must go through
the Casparian strip which requires energy. The layer in absorbing roots
called the Casparian strip contains suberin and energy is required to move
water and element through this boundary. In a sense Mr. Caspari, the little
Italian man, sits there like a turnpike toll both. This layer is an
effective boundary essential in the absorption processes. Suberin is also a
major compound in the barrier zone that forms after wounding. Suberin also
makes up the phellem or outer bark. Suberin is also present in the leaf
abscission zone and the zone that form before mycorrhizae die as well as
non-woody roots.

BTW, you could fertilize at planting time with micro elements which are
cofactors. No nitrogen though. Liquid sea kelp would work. That's what I
prefer to use.

Usually you could get a tree company to give you fresh chips. Then you
could let them compost for at least a year. Fresh chips attract micros that
attack defenseless cells.

As far as care for these threes I would recommend TREE PRUNING, a world wide
photo guide and MODERN ARBORICULTURE boy by Alex L. Shigo. If you library
does not have them they can order them If they order you could request his
entire library. Best investment I ever made. Actually my library was my
1990 Christmas Present.

Remember tulip poplars are going to get very tall and should not be planted
near overhead utility lines.

What other species do you have?

--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Tree Biologist
www.treedictionary.com
and
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
Watch out for so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, tornado's, volcanic eruptions and other
abiotic forces keep reminding humans that they are not the boss.


"MajorOz" wrote in message
...
Ordered my seedlings from the state about an hour ago. 200 seedlings,
including the "quail bundle". I am trying a new one this year: tulip
poplar.

wish me luck

cheers

oz

On Nov 21, 3:34*pm, MajorOz wrote:
Ordered my seedlings from the state about an hour ago. *200 seedlings,
including the "quail bundle". *I am trying a new one this year: tulip
poplar.

wish me luck

cheers

oz

Hope you like the tulip poplar better then we do. They drop stuff all
year round, start losing their leaves 2 mos earlier than the other
trees(in Aug here in DE, big leaves in the pool) and drop these huge
needle like things from the center of the blossom, and on one end of
the needle like thingy there is a huge barb that is a bitch to step
on. We are having the 2 nearest the house taken down, at great expense
as they are 60 feet tall. One of them had a whole large section die
off this year. They are too close to the house to take a chance if it
is dying.
Good Luck, Nan in DE

On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 12:34:07 -0800 (PST), MajorOz
wrote:

Ordered my seedlings from the state about an hour ago. 200 seedlings,
including the "quail bundle". I am trying a new one this year: tulip
poplar.

wish me luck

cheers

oz

Maybe this is your new tree:

http://na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/silvic...tulipifera.htm

"Yellow-poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera), also called
tuliptree, tulip-poplar, white-poplar, and whitewood, is one
of the most attractive and tallest of eastern hardwoods. It
is fast growing and may reach 300 years of age on deep,
rich, well-drained soils of forest coves and lower mountain
slopes."

They grow slow in my area. It seems we are at the northern
edge of their range. Dad planted some ~30 years ago and I've
yet to see any flowers. They should have been spread out
more, which hasn't helped their growth any. They have large,
really distinctive and pretty leaves in my opinion, which
more than makes up for the lack of flowers right now.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Nov 22, 12:40*pm, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 12:34:07 -0800 (PST), MajorOz

wrote:
Ordered my seedlings from the state about an hour ago. *200 seedlings,
including the "quail bundle". *I am trying a new one this year: tulip
poplar.

wish me luck

cheers

oz

Maybe this is your new tree:

http://na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/silvic...iriodendron/tu...

"Yellow-poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera), also called
tuliptree, tulip-poplar, white-poplar, and whitewood, is one
of the most attractive and tallest of eastern hardwoods. It
is fast growing and may reach 300 years of age on deep,
rich, well-drained soils of forest coves and lower mountain
slopes."

They grow slow in my area. It seems we are at the northern
edge of their range. Dad planted some ~30 years ago and I've
yet to see any flowers. They should have been spread out
more, which hasn't helped their growth any. They have large,
really distinctive and pretty leaves in my opinion, which
more than makes up for the lack of flowers right now.

That's the one. There are 25 seedlings coming. About 15 or so will
be planted on my side of a property boundary WAAAAAY up in the corner
of my back 40 where a new owner of old property has erected a HUGE
deer stand about ten feet from my property line.

The rest will line the lane from the road to the house -- about 50 ft
apart, between existing plantings.

cheers, and thanx to all

oz