On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 7:39:32 AM UTC-8, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
I received 3 Trader Joe-type orchids for my
birthday party, and would like to combine
them in one container for a sort of orchid "forest".

Have never dealt with orchids before,
so wonder if my plan is even feasible.

Would like to remove them from their original
(small) pots and transplant them together in one large,
handsome, SHALLOW pot.

Questions:

1. Can this kind of TJ orchid take transplanting?

2. If so, how far apart must 3 plants be?

3. How deep must soil/orchid mix be? Ideally, the
look I want is shallow, but would this work?

4. Should I add (good) garden dirt to the orchid
mix from original pots?

Any wisdom, links, etc. gratefully accepted.

HB

Thanks to all for generous helpings of wisdom.

My harebrained scheme for a shallow "forest" is a non-starter, which I could have figured out by measuring the 3 ceramic containers. Pots are 4.5, 5, and 6" high. One is 5" wide, one 4, and one 3".

Unless I find a majestic container with high enough walls to contain all 3, the "forest" will have to exist on the wide glass "platter" where it is now.

*Two are Phala; the 3rd has no ID. Is it safe to conclude it's also Phala?

**I had some very old orchid medium out in back, but maybe I should get new?

***Don't understand David's comment: "The roots need access to air." Do you mean access from ABOVE via planting medium? How else would roots get air if pot is sitting on [surface]?

****Tag says, Continuing ca "After the last flower expires, cut the spike above the node from which the 1st flower appeared. A new spike can branch off within weeks.

Alternatively, remove the flower spike entirely to allow the plan to recover and form a new spike in 3-4 months."

DUH?!

This might be a steep learning curve g

Tx to all

HB

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 19:28:55 -0800 (PST), Hypatia Nachshon
wrote:


Thanks to all for generous helpings of wisdom.

My harebrained scheme for a shallow "forest" is a non-starter, which I could have figured out by measuring the 3 ceramic containers. Pots are 4.5, 5, and 6" high. One is 5" wide, one 4, and one 3".

Unless I find a majestic container with high enough walls to contain all 3, the "forest" will have to exist on the wide glass "platter" where it is now.

*Two are Phala; the 3rd has no ID. Is it safe to conclude it's also Phala?

**I had some very old orchid medium out in back, but maybe I should get new?

***Don't understand David's comment: "The roots need access to air." Do you mean access from ABOVE via planting medium? How else would roots get air if pot is sitting on [surface]?

****Tag says, Continuing ca "After the last flower expires, cut the spike above the node from which the 1st flower appeared. A new spike can branch off within weeks.

Alternatively, remove the flower spike entirely to allow the plan to recover and form a new spike in 3-4 months."

DUH?!

This might be a steep learning curve g

Tx to all

HB

Phals grow like weeds, are very resilient, and your biggest trick will
be in betting it to re-bloom down the line.

Insofar as the mystery orchid, can you take a photo and post it
somewhere where we can take a look at it? TJ's sells more than phals.
I actually got one of my most prolific cymbidiums (think prom corsage)
from there. Many times they have 3 or 4 types for sale, the phals,
oncidiums, dendrobiums, paphs...

One other thing to note about the kinds of orchids one finds at places
such as TJ's, Costco, Walmart, Home Depot, etc ---they are grown to be
sold at peak bloom. They may not be potted correctly, they may be
color-tinted, mis-marked, etc.

Basically, you have another option- think of these as you would a
bouquet unless you really want to invest the time, effort, and cost in
getting proper pots, medium, fertilizer, and providing a space with
the correct light and temp. They will bloom or carry current bloom for
quite a while, enjoy them while you can, then as with a dying bouquet,
chuck it. No, I am no advising you to take that as a primary route,
far be it from me, an orchid nut, to discourage anyone from the habit,
but it is just a thought.

On 2/18/2016 7:28 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 7:39:32 AM UTC-8, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
I received 3 Trader Joe-type orchids for my
birthday party, and would like to combine
them in one container for a sort of orchid "forest".

Have never dealt with orchids before,
so wonder if my plan is even feasible.

Would like to remove them from their original
(small) pots and transplant them together in one large,
handsome, SHALLOW pot.

Questions:

1. Can this kind of TJ orchid take transplanting?

2. If so, how far apart must 3 plants be?

3. How deep must soil/orchid mix be? Ideally, the
look I want is shallow, but would this work?

4. Should I add (good) garden dirt to the orchid
mix from original pots?

Any wisdom, links, etc. gratefully accepted.

HB

Thanks to all for generous helpings of wisdom.

My harebrained scheme for a shallow "forest" is a non-starter, which I could have figured out by measuring the 3 ceramic containers. Pots are 4.5, 5, and 6" high. One is 5" wide, one 4, and one 3".

Unless I find a majestic container with high enough walls to contain all 3, the "forest" will have to exist on the wide glass "platter" where it is now.

*Two are Phala; the 3rd has no ID. Is it safe to conclude it's also Phala?

**I had some very old orchid medium out in back, but maybe I should get new?

***Don't understand David's comment: "The roots need access to air." Do you mean access from ABOVE via planting medium? How else would roots get air if pot is sitting on [surface]?

****Tag says, Continuing ca "After the last flower expires, cut the spike above the node from which the 1st flower appeared. A new spike can branch off within weeks.

Alternatively, remove the flower spike entirely to allow the plan to recover and form a new spike in 3-4 months."

DUH?!

This might be a steep learning curve g

Tx to all

HB


Soemone else -- not me -- said "The roots need access to air." However,
that is true. That is why my Phalaenopsis are planted in bark chips.
When you water them as I earlier described and the water drains away
into the sink, air penetrates the planting medium.

--
David E. Ross

While many tributes to the late Supreme Court Associate Justice
Antonin Scalia now fill the news media, his legacy was not
necessarily positive. See my "What Price Order, Mr. Justice Scalia?"
at http://www.rossde.com/editorials/edtl_scalia_wrong.html.

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 7:50:18 AM UTC-8, David E. Ross wrote:
On 2/18/2016 7:28 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 7:39:32 AM UTC-8, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
I received 3 Trader Joe-type orchids for my
birthday party, and would like to combine
them in one container for a sort of orchid "forest".

Have never dealt with orchids before,
so wonder if my plan is even feasible.

Would like to remove them from their original
(small) pots and transplant them together in one large,
handsome, SHALLOW pot.

Questions:

1. Can this kind of TJ orchid take transplanting?

2. If so, how far apart must 3 plants be?

3. How deep must soil/orchid mix be? Ideally, the
look I want is shallow, but would this work?

4. Should I add (good) garden dirt to the orchid
mix from original pots?

Any wisdom, links, etc. gratefully accepted.

HB

Thanks to all for generous helpings of wisdom.

My harebrained scheme for a shallow "forest" is a non-starter, which I could have figured out by measuring the 3 ceramic containers. Pots are 4.5, 5, and 6" high. One is 5" wide, one 4, and one 3".

Unless I find a majestic container with high enough walls to contain all 3, the "forest" will have to exist on the wide glass "platter" where it is now.

*Two are Phala; the 3rd has no ID. Is it safe to conclude it's also Phala?

**I had some very old orchid medium out in back, but maybe I should get new?

***Don't understand David's comment: "The roots need access to air." Do you mean access from ABOVE via planting medium? How else would roots get air if pot is sitting on [surface]?

****Tag says, Continuing ca "After the last flower expires, cut the spike above the node from which the 1st flower appeared. A new spike can branch off within weeks.

Alternatively, remove the flower spike entirely to allow the plan to recover and form a new spike in 3-4 months."

DUH?!

This might be a steep learning curve g

Tx to all

HB


Soemone else -- not me -- said "The roots need access to air." However,
that is true. That is why my Phalaenopsis are planted in bark chips.
When you water them as I earlier described and the water drains away
into the sink, air penetrates the planting medium.

--
David E. Ross

While many tributes to the late Supreme Court Associate Justice
Antonin Scalia now fill the news media, his legacy was not
necessarily positive. See my "What Price Order, Mr. Justice Scalia?"
at http://www.rossde.com/editorials/edtl_scalia_wrong.html.

See also Bruce Allen Murphy's definitive bio of the late, unlamented bully "A Court of One". Murphy knocked himself out to be fair, but the REAL Scalia -- unreconstructed pre-Vatican II reactionary who ruled according to his religious beliefs,not according to the Constitution, emerges loud and clear..

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 7:50:18 AM UTC-8, David E. Ross wrote:
On 2/18/2016 7:28 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 7:39:32 AM UTC-8, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
I received 3 Trader Joe-type orchids for my
birthday party, and would like to combine
them in one container for a sort of orchid "forest".

Have never dealt with orchids before,
so wonder if my plan is even feasible.

Would like to remove them from their original
(small) pots and transplant them together in one large,
handsome, SHALLOW pot.

Questions:

1. Can this kind of TJ orchid take transplanting?

2. If so, how far apart must 3 plants be?

3. How deep must soil/orchid mix be? Ideally, the
look I want is shallow, but would this work?

4. Should I add (good) garden dirt to the orchid
mix from original pots?

Any wisdom, links, etc. gratefully accepted.

HB

Thanks to all for generous helpings of wisdom.

My harebrained scheme for a shallow "forest" is a non-starter, which I could have figured out by measuring the 3 ceramic containers. Pots are 4.5, 5, and 6" high. One is 5" wide, one 4, and one 3".

Unless I find a majestic container with high enough walls to contain all 3, the "forest" will have to exist on the wide glass "platter" where it is now.

*Two are Phala; the 3rd has no ID. Is it safe to conclude it's also Phala?

**I had some very old orchid medium out in back, but maybe I should get new?

***Don't understand David's comment: "The roots need access to air." Do you mean access from ABOVE via planting medium? How else would roots get air if pot is sitting on [surface]?

****Tag says, Continuing ca "After the last flower expires, cut the spike above the node from which the 1st flower appeared. A new spike can branch off within weeks.

Alternatively, remove the flower spike entirely to allow the plan to recover and form a new spike in 3-4 months."

DUH?!

This might be a steep learning curve g

Tx to all

HB


Soemone else -- not me -- said "The roots need access to air." However,
that is true. That is why my Phalaenopsis are planted in bark chips.
When you water them as I earlier described and the water drains away
into the sink, air penetrates the planting medium.

--
David E. Ross

While many tributes to the late Supreme Court Associate Justice
Antonin Scalia now fill the news media, his legacy was not
necessarily positive. See my "What Price Order, Mr. Justice Scalia?"
at http://www.rossde.com/editorials/edtl_scalia_wrong.html.

David, what is the difference between bark chips and the planting mix sold for orchids for watering? From what I see, the planting mix is coarse enough to allow passage of water.

So, 2 questions:

1. Which "grade" of bark chips do you use--from fine to coarse?

2 Your comment above refers to "plantng medium". Do you mean JUST bark chips, or bark chips on top of orchid planting mix?

Sorry if this was obvious; am trying to do the best by these newcomers.

TIA

HB

On 2/21/2016 12:16 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

David, what is the difference between bark chips and the planting mix
sold for orchids for watering? From what I see, the planting mix is
coarse enough to allow passage of water.

So, 2 questions:

1. Which "grade" of bark chips do you use--from fine to coarse?

The bag of bark that I use for my Phalaenopsis does not indicate a size
or grade. It says the bark is from fir trees. The pieces are about 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch across and slightly less thick. The bag weighed less
than a pound, which should be enough to pot one or two orchids. Do not
add any nutrients when potting; wait before adding fertilizer to the
weekly watering.


2 Your comment above refers to "plantng medium". Do you mean JUST
bark chips, or bark chips on top of orchid planting mix?

Some Phalaenopsis growers prefer the fiber from tree ferns. Others use
spagnum moss (peat moss that has not been ground almost to a powder).
Thus, I used the term "planting medium" to include all three. Whichever
you use -- bark, fern fiber, or moss -- use only one of these media. No
soil, no compost, no vermiculite, no pea gravel.

NOTE: Cymbidium should be planted in a medium approximating real soil.
Mine is potted in a mix of fine peat moss and compost with added blood
meal and bone meal.


Sorry if this was obvious; am trying to do the best by these
newcomers.

It's okay.

--
David E. Ross

While many tributes to the late Supreme Court Associate Justice
Antonin Scalia now fill the news media, his legacy was not
necessarily positive. See my "What Price Order, Mr. Justice Scalia?"
at http://www.rossde.com/editorials/edtl_scalia_wrong.html.

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 2:08:22 PM UTC-8, David E. Ross wrote:
On 2/21/2016 12:16 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

David, what is the difference between bark chips and the planting mix
sold for orchids for watering? From what I see, the planting mix is
coarse enough to allow passage of water.

So, 2 questions:

1. Which "grade" of bark chips do you use--from fine to coarse?

The bag of bark that I use for my Phalaenopsis does not indicate a size
or grade. It says the bark is from fir trees. The pieces are about 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch across and slightly less thick. The bag weighed less
than a pound, which should be enough to pot one or two orchids. Do not
add any nutrients when potting; wait before adding fertilizer to the
weekly watering.


2 Your comment above refers to "plantng medium". Do you mean JUST
bark chips, or bark chips on top of orchid planting mix?

Some Phalaenopsis growers prefer the fiber from tree ferns. Others use
spagnum moss (peat moss that has not been ground almost to a powder).
Thus, I used the term "planting medium" to include all three. Whichever
you use -- bark, fern fiber, or moss -- use only one of these media. No
soil, no compost, no vermiculite, no pea gravel.

NOTE: Cymbidium should be planted in a medium approximating real soil.
Mine is potted in a mix of fine peat moss and compost with added blood
meal and bone meal.


Sorry if this was obvious; am trying to do the best by these
newcomers.

It's okay.

--
David E. Ross

While many tributes to the late Supreme Court Associate Justice
Antonin Scalia now fill the news media, his legacy was not
necessarily positive. See my "What Price Order, Mr. Justice Scalia?"
at http://www.rossde.com/editorials/edtl_scalia_wrong.html.

=============

Confirmed that mine are all Phals.

I bought a bag of the bark. Label said from pine tree.

Also asked at my nursery; plant guy confirmed use just one medium -- bark. Said ((IIRC) moss-y stuff is used in selling to keep moist. Not necessary for purchaser.

Must get other pots. The birthday orchids came in pots w/o holes!

Anybody: I found a jar of old orchid bark in junque area. Has been rained on, etc. Is it still good to use? Mix w/new bark?

TIA

HB

Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
....
Anybody: I found a jar of old orchid bark in junque area.
Has been rained on, etc. Is it still good to use? Mix w/new bark?

what is junque area?

what is etc?


songbird

On 2/25/2016 9:42 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 2:08:22 PM UTC-8, David E. Ross wrote:
On 2/21/2016 12:16 PM, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

David, what is the difference between bark chips and the planting mix
sold for orchids for watering? From what I see, the planting mix is
coarse enough to allow passage of water.

So, 2 questions:

1. Which "grade" of bark chips do you use--from fine to coarse?

The bag of bark that I use for my Phalaenopsis does not indicate a size
or grade. It says the bark is from fir trees. The pieces are about 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch across and slightly less thick. The bag weighed less
than a pound, which should be enough to pot one or two orchids. Do not
add any nutrients when potting; wait before adding fertilizer to the
weekly watering.


2 Your comment above refers to "plantng medium". Do you mean JUST
bark chips, or bark chips on top of orchid planting mix?

Some Phalaenopsis growers prefer the fiber from tree ferns. Others use
spagnum moss (peat moss that has not been ground almost to a powder).
Thus, I used the term "planting medium" to include all three. Whichever
you use -- bark, fern fiber, or moss -- use only one of these media. No
soil, no compost, no vermiculite, no pea gravel.

NOTE: Cymbidium should be planted in a medium approximating real soil.
Mine is potted in a mix of fine peat moss and compost with added blood
meal and bone meal.


Sorry if this was obvious; am trying to do the best by these
newcomers.

It's okay.


=============

Confirmed that mine are all Phals.

I bought a bag of the bark. Label said from pine tree.

Also asked at my nursery; plant guy confirmed use just one medium -- bark. Said ((IIRC) moss-y stuff is used in selling to keep moist. Not necessary for purchaser.

Must get other pots. The birthday orchids came in pots w/o holes!

Anybody: I found a jar of old orchid bark in junque area. Has been rained on, etc. Is it still good to use? Mix w/new bark?

TIA

HB

I generally do mix some old bark from the flower pot with mostly new
bark when repotting. However, do not depend entirely on my advice. I
recently repotted both my Phalaenopsis, and then one of them died.

--
David E. Ross

While many tributes to the late Supreme Court Associate Justice
Antonin Scalia now fill the news media, his legacy was not
necessarily positive. See my "What Price Order, Mr. Justice Scalia?"
at http://www.rossde.com/editorials/edtl_scalia_wrong.html.

"David E. Ross" writes:

I generally do mix some old bark from the flower pot with mostly new
bark when repotting. However, do not depend entirely on my advice. I
recently repotted both my Phalaenopsis, and then one of them died.

I have one orchid for at least 3 years.
Never re-potted and it looks happy to me.
There are plenty of roots outside the pot
but I don't see a problem with that.
It gives me an opportunity to mist the roots every
few days with water.

So, why do I need to re-pot this plant?

--
Dan Espen