I've been gardening for several years, but new to mulching. Here are my
experiences so far:

1. I have a large evergreen shrub that sheds a few leaves at a time all year
round. I gathered these leaves up and took some off branches that had been
pruned. I don't have a leaf shredder, so I just layered them as is around my
strawberries that were newly planted. Within a couple of days all had blown
away.

2. I thought peat moss would be a good mulch, so I put it on my flower
garden about 1/2 inch deep. It retained water much better than the soil
alone did. I also heard that peat moss suppresses the bacterial growth, so
maybe I shouldn't use it?

3. I also have a honey locust. After the leaves fell in the fall, I gathered
them up, and put them in my flower bed. This definately retained moisture,
but I guess that's not what I wanted in the wet spring. Some of my flowers
rotted as the came up, others never came up. When I noticed this, I quickly
removed the mulch from around the new plants.

It's very dry here in the summer (zone 6, Idaho), so I know I want to mulch,
but not sure how to do it. Do I completely remove it in the spring while
it's wet, then replace it when it starts getting dryer? Should I keep it
away from ther base of the plants? How about winter mulch? Cover the whole
plant, then uncover in spring? Just the base of the plants? Don't cover the
plants at all?

Any help or comments appreciated.

"tmtresh" wrote in message
...
I've been gardening for several years, but new to mulching. Here are my
experiences so far:

1. I have a large evergreen shrub that sheds a few leaves at a time all
year
round. I gathered these leaves up and took some off branches that had been
pruned. I don't have a leaf shredder, so I just layered them as is around
my
strawberries that were newly planted. Within a couple of days all had
blown
away.

2. I thought peat moss would be a good mulch, so I put it on my flower
garden about 1/2 inch deep. It retained water much better than the soil
alone did. I also heard that peat moss suppresses the bacterial growth, so
maybe I shouldn't use it?

3. I also have a honey locust. After the leaves fell in the fall, I
gathered
them up, and put them in my flower bed. This definately retained moisture,
but I guess that's not what I wanted in the wet spring. Some of my flowers
rotted as the came up, others never came up. When I noticed this, I
quickly
removed the mulch from around the new plants.

It's very dry here in the summer (zone 6, Idaho), so I know I want to
mulch,
but not sure how to do it. Do I completely remove it in the spring while
it's wet, then replace it when it starts getting dryer? Should I keep it
away from ther base of the plants? How about winter mulch? Cover the whole
plant, then uncover in spring? Just the base of the plants? Don't cover
the
plants at all?

Any help or comments appreciated.



IMO, the best mulch is one that adds organic material to the soil, while at
the same time assisting with moisture retention and suppressing weeds. To
me, this translates to compost, either home-made or commercially prepared.
It should have sufficient texture and size to allow air and water to move
freely, but small enough to provide suppression of perennial weeds and
retard the germination of annual weeds. Apply it to a thickness of 3-4
inches, keeping it away from the base or trunk of any woody plants. There is
no problem with mulching over the crown of herbaceous perennials in late
fall or winter - the new shoots will grow right through. If you renew the
mulch in spring, bring to the base of perennials but not over the top. Peat
moss is not an ideal mulch - it provides minimal nutrient value, is too
finely textured and either retains too much water or if dried, repels
moisture. And it is a non-renewable resource.

Save your leaves in fall and add them to your compost pile. In spring you
will have an excellent organic mulch. Or if you prefer, run them over with
your lawn mower to break them up and reduce size. These can be used as a
mulch for winter, but be careful about them compacting in wet climates -
they can rot out small, tender spring growth.

pam - gardengal