Does anyone have directions for sharpening a scythe? I take it there's
a technique as opposed to just winging it.

Mine's gotten noticeably duller, and I read it's common to sharpen them
in the field in fact. Not that they're common in the field, but given
that you have one there, odds are that it's being sharpened.
--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 22:30:08 GMT, Ron Hardin
wrote:

Does anyone have directions for sharpening a scythe? I take it there's
a technique as opposed to just winging it.

Mine's gotten noticeably duller, and I read it's common to sharpen them
in the field in fact. Not that they're common in the field, but given
that you have one there, odds are that it's being sharpened.
--

Bless google : A couple of years ago I used to watch a gardening
show with husband/wife hosts. In one episode the husband showed how
to use and take care of scythes. I could only remember that her name
was Barbara and they were in/from New England. With a few good
keywords I found it was Barbara Damrosh and Eliot Coleman. Then I did
a search on "Eliot Coleman" + scythe, and following the trail of leads
I found this webpage which has info on sharpening (peening and honing)
with how-to photographs!

http://www.scythesupply.com/links.htm

It seems that there is a lot on the internet on scythes.

Well, at least I accomplished *something* today :

Sue(tm)
Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!

On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 22:30:08 GMT, Ron Hardin
wrote:

Does anyone have directions for sharpening a scythe? I take it there's
a technique as opposed to just winging it.

Mine's gotten noticeably duller, and I read it's common to sharpen them
in the field in fact. Not that they're common in the field, but given
that you have one there, odds are that it's being sharpened.

I sharpen all kinds of things (I have an active woodshop). I'd use a
wet Arkansas stone, maintaining the same original angle and using
equal number of strokes on both sides of the blade. It may help to
secure the scythe in a vise during the operation. For field
sharpening, I'd use a diamond file (these are more expensive than a $1
Arkansas stone). I don't use any special guides or tools for
sharpening garden tools. Sharpening with direct sunlight is best.

On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 22:30:08 GMT, Ron Hardin wrote:

Does anyone have directions for sharpening a scythe? I take it there's
a technique as opposed to just winging it.

Mine's gotten noticeably duller, and I read it's common to sharpen them
in the field in fact. Not that they're common in the field, but given
that you have one there, odds are that it's being sharpened.

They sell a little stone and belt pouch you carry with you. If I remember
correctly the pouch holds water to keep the stone wet. It's a long stone with an
oval cross-section. There's also a little anvil(sort of like a railroad spike)
you hammer into a stump to work on the blade.
Extreme caution is advised when sharpening a scythe blade. Even when the blade
is not at its sharpest it can cut skin pretty well. After you nick yourself a
few times you'll get used to the right way to hold the stone and the blade.

Curly Sue wrote:
...I found this webpage which has info on sharpening (peening and honing)
with how-to photographs!...



There are two different materials that scythe blades are made from: high
carbon steel and low carbon steel. The high carbon steel blades are
harder and are fairly easy to sharpen, but when (not if) they hit a
rock, they get a gouge in the edge. To get the gouge out takes some work
with a stone and eventually will thin out the blade. The low carbon
steel blades are softer and will bend when it hits a rock. The rough
sharpening is done with a hammer and (small pocket size) anvil, cold
working the steel. Final honing is done with a water stone.

The blades have a lip on the dull edge that defines the angle for the
sharpening stone.

In addition to the materials, the blades come in different lengths. The
grass blade is 3-4 feet long and fairly thin. The brush blade is
shorter, 18-24" long and is thicker, since it is built to cut heavier
stuff. I generally use the brush blade since I'm not usually mowing
fields, but just trimming around edges. I have the high carbon steel
blades and generally carry the stone in my back pocket.

The scythe is the 4th level weeding implement, coming after the rake,
torch and hoe, but before the chainsaw and backhoe.

Ron Hardin wrote in message ...
Does anyone have directions for sharpening a scythe? I take it there's
a technique as opposed to just winging it.

Mine's gotten noticeably duller, and I read it's common to sharpen them
in the field in fact. Not that they're common in the field, but given
that you have one there, odds are that it's being sharpened.

Go to the nearest home improvement store and buy a scythe stone. Wet
it; then use it to sharpen the blade by moving the stone back and
forth along the edge. It's easy.

BTW, sharpen only one side of the edge. You want one bevel, not two.

J. Del Col

Phisherman wrote in message . ..
On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 22:30:08 GMT, Ron Hardin
wrote:

Does anyone have directions for sharpening a scythe? I take it there's
a technique as opposed to just winging it.

Mine's gotten noticeably duller, and I read it's common to sharpen them
in the field in fact. Not that they're common in the field, but given
that you have one there, odds are that it's being sharpened.

I sharpen all kinds of things (I have an active woodshop). I'd use a
wet Arkansas stone, maintaining the same original angle and using
equal number of strokes on both sides of the blade. It may help to
secure the scythe in a vise during the operation. For field
sharpening, I'd use a diamond file (these are more expensive than a $1
Arkansas stone). I don't use any special guides or tools for
sharpening garden tools. Sharpening with direct sunlight is best.

Actually a scythe is single edged like a chisel so you stone it on the
upper edge after beating out a little bit of metal with a cross pein
hammer and a small anvil (which can be made from a bolt).
You can stone it a few times between beating the metal out again but
after a while the edge becomes too thick and needs to be thinned out
by beating again.
A scythe stone is about 5$
The steel appears to be softer than you would think at first but
beating out the edge work hardens it a bit also.