Rosemary bush dying (-:
I think I did something stupid. A couple of weeks ago the weathermen
forecast night time temps in the 20s here in Chicago, Zone 5. I panicked and brought in all the house plants. I also brought in my Rosemary bush which is 1 1/2 years old, which I nurtured inside all last winter under fluorescents. I placed the bush under fluorescents and for some reason it just started dying. There is some green in the leaves but it doesn't look good, a lot of stems have completely died. The root system is big and it grew in a 24" wide container. I really hoped I could overwinter it inside and have it get huge for next summer. Now it looks hopeless. Does anyone have any idea as to how to save this? I can't believe the root system would just die off like that. If I cut the entire plant down will the roots spawn new stems? I since moved the plant from fluorescents and placed it under my new HID High Pressure Sodium lights for my indoor winter garden. It gets 14 hours of "sunlight" now. |
On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson
wrote: I think I did something stupid. A couple of weeks ago the weathermen forecast night time temps in the 20s here in Chicago, Zone 5. I panicked and brought in all the house plants. I also brought in my Rosemary bush which is 1 1/2 years old, which I nurtured inside all last winter under fluorescents. I placed the bush under fluorescents and for some reason it just started dying. There is some green in the leaves but it doesn't look good, a lot of stems have completely died. The root system is big and it grew in a 24" wide container. I really hoped I could overwinter it inside and have it get huge for next summer. Now it looks hopeless. Saturate with water. Rosemary wants tons of water. Rootbound plants need even more. Give lots of nitrogen, too (I feed it manure tea) and a handful of lime sprinkled around the dirt.. I've also had tough luck with Rosemary, but somehow this plant is over a year old and about 3 feet tall (no flowers yet). I believe the major trick is "EXCESSIVE watering". Don't believe the ads when they say "drought tolerant" Dan |
"Dan" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson wrote: Saturate with water. Rosemary wants tons of water. Rootbound plants need even more. Give lots of nitrogen, too (I feed it manure tea) and a handful of lime sprinkled around the dirt.. I've also had tough luck with Rosemary, but somehow this plant is over a year old and about 3 feet tall (no flowers yet). I believe the major trick is "EXCESSIVE watering". Don't believe the ads when they say "drought tolerant" You can't be farther away from the truth - rosemary does not need "excessive" watering, will resent it if you do, plus it requires minimal fertilizing as well. As with most plants native to a temperate zone, it is not happy being grown in the house. And it needs time to acclimatize from being outside. Keep in very bright but indirect light, water sparingly and increase humidity levels by adding a glass or two of water to the general vicinity. Keep out of drafts or away from direct sources of heat. pam - gardengal |
On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson
wrote: I can't believe the root system would just die off like that. Wonder if it was overwatered. Rosemary roots don't like to be constantly moist, in a pot the roots might have rotted. |
Hi Mark...
I'm in Omaha and I've worked with moving Rosemary in and out through summers and winters. I've learned a few things in the process. Rosemary is very temperamental when it is in a pot. One, it doesn't like excessive watering. Two, it's important to have a soil mixture in your pot that has reasonably good drainage but not to the point of being sand with no moisture holding ability at all. I have my plants in a pot with a 50/50 mixture of fine silty sand and some regular garden soil. I've found that it's also necessary to "massage" the plants in a sense. That is that you need to get movement to the leaves and stems somehow either via a small fan every now and then or just ruffling the stems with your hands. And also, you need to trim on it every now and then. It seems to me that when the plant is inert and not interacted with physically, growth is very sparse and can be somewhat stemmy. But when the plant is exposed to some physical stress via a small breeze, the plant seems to grow a little more resilient. Also, regular cuttings seem to promote new growth. Don't give up on the plant just yet or panic by over watering what's going on now. Just try to ease the stress the plant is seeing by trying to make the transistion from garden to house more smooth. Make sure you're giving it similar light conditions and soil conditions. Also, temperature is important. My plant lives in a southern window on a concrete floor. I've found that the evening cooling is important. Remember, the plants origins are in a Mediterranean in a cooler zone where sometimes it can be just above freezing. I've been trying to grow Rosemary in this region for about 15 years now. And I've finally seemed to have found that balance that is close enough to work. I've got three different varieties in a single 5 gallon black plastic pot that has been going on about 3 years with steady growth. So, just keep experimenting and don't lose hope. Dan |
On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson
wrote: I think I did something stupid. A couple of weeks ago the weathermen forecast night time temps in the 20s here in Chicago, Zone 5. I panicked and brought in all the house plants. I also brought in my Rosemary bush which is 1 1/2 years old, which I nurtured inside all last winter under fluorescents. I placed the bush under fluorescents and for some reason it just started dying. There is some green in the leaves but it doesn't look good, a lot of stems have completely died. The root system is big and it grew in a 24" wide container. I really hoped I could overwinter it inside and have it get huge for next summer. Now it looks hopeless. Does anyone have any idea as to how to save this? I can't believe the root system would just die off like that. If I cut the entire plant down will the roots spawn new stems? I since moved the plant from fluorescents and placed it under my new HID High Pressure Sodium lights for my indoor winter garden. It gets 14 hours of "sunlight" now. The new light may work. My rosemary bushes live outside (Zone 7) all year. Be extra careful about overwatering, quick drainage, and no fertilizer. You could also try to start new plants from cuttings (I got 4 successful rootings from 7 cuttings). Generally cuttings will root well under fluorescent lighting. |
Mark Anderson expounded:
Does anyone have any idea as to how to save this? I can't believe the root system would just die off like that. If I cut the entire plant down will the roots spawn new stems? I since moved the plant from fluorescents and placed it under my new HID High Pressure Sodium lights for my indoor winter garden. It gets 14 hours of "sunlight" now. Here is a repost discussing the potting up of Rosemary to bring it in for the winter: Many people have asked how to overwinter Rosemary. A friend of mine, a fellow member of the New England Unit of the Herb Society of America, put this in our recent newsletter, the Pennyroyal Papers. I hope it helps someone :o) Success with Rosemary by Deb Peterson 1. Rosemary can stay outside until the temps stay below 45°. It can withstand some frost (Don't let the pot freeze in the ground, though, so you can't dig it out). 2. Bring it into the coolest part of the house. Rosemary is happy with night time temperatures in the fifties or even the forties. 3. Give it as much light as possible. 4. A DRY ROSEMARY IS A DEAD ROSEMARY (not shouting, but emphasis). Don't let it dry out, but don't keep it too wet. Texas potting is the secret to this dilemma. (It is remarkable drought tolerant in the summer out in the garden) Texas potting is explained below. 5. If your rosemary should develop powdery mildew, spray lightly with a mixture of one tablespoon alcohol to a cup of water. Give it a chill outside on a warm winter day. Powdery mildew is due to a lack of air circulation. ************************************************** ************************** Texas Potting: You will need: 1. Steak or roast carving fork (2 prongs) 2. A bag of perlite. 3. Appropriate sized plastic pots. 4. A source for flame Heat the steak fork and make a double row of holes around the bottom of the pot. Make another row of holes just below the watering lip. Put the perlite in the bottom of the pot to just cover the double holes around the bottom. Pot up your plant with regular potting soil. Water well. Put the potted plants in a water tight container and fill the container to any height to just above the bottom row of holes (this is a great way to leave plants when you travel). The secret of this system is the upper row of holes. These holes supply air to the roots. Clay pots are porous and can be used without making air holes. If you use clay, put at least 2" of perlite in the bottom. This system also works well with cyclamens. -- Ann, Gardening in zone 6a Just south of Boston, MA ******************************** |
On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 12:05:24 GMT, "Pam - gardengal"
wrote: You can't be farther away from the truth - rosemary does not need "excessive" watering, will resent it if you do, plus it requires minimal fertilizing as well. As with most plants native to a temperate zone, it is not happy being grown in the house. And it needs time to acclimatize from being outside. Keep in very bright but indirect light, water sparingly and increase humidity levels by adding a glass or two of water to the general vicinity. Keep out of drafts or away from direct sources of heat. I may be off a little bit with watering the soil, but I sprayed the foliage all through last winter, and it seemed to enjoy it. It is one of the more difficult herbs to keep alive, especially up here in zone 5. Definetly needs to be kept in a pot, and it will always fill the pot and want more...which isn't a bad thing. Does anyone know when the upright variety of rosemary starts sprouting flowers? This one is 1 1/2 years old, 3 ft tall but no flowers yet....a little upsetting :( But I am glad it's still alive...the past two died & dried out in the pot. Dan |
We have no trouble wintering Rosemary in the ground here in coastal BC (zone
8/9) but I agree that too much water will kill it effectively - they do seem to like good drainage. |
"Pam - gardengal" wrote in message news:8cojd.475638$mD.183276@attbi_s02... "Dan" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson wrote: Saturate with water. Rosemary wants tons of water. Rootbound plants need even more. Give lots of nitrogen, too (I feed it manure tea) and a handful of lime sprinkled around the dirt.. I've also had tough luck with Rosemary, but somehow this plant is over a year old and about 3 feet tall (no flowers yet). I believe the major trick is "EXCESSIVE watering". Don't believe the ads when they say "drought tolerant" You can't be farther away from the truth - rosemary does not need "excessive" watering, will resent it if you do, plus it requires minimal fertilizing as well. As with most plants native to a temperate zone, it is not happy being grown in the house. And it needs time to acclimatize from being outside. Keep in very bright but indirect light, water sparingly and increase humidity levels by adding a glass or two of water to the general vicinity. Keep out of drafts or away from direct sources of heat. pam - gardengal I agree about the humidity, although I say this only in theory, because I'm still struggling with MY rosemary plants. I recall reading that they grow mightily along the Mediterrean coastline, in weird rocky soil, like beach roses. Does that point to more lime, rather than the typical bagged potting soil, which contains lots of peat moss? |
Mark Anderson wrote:
I think I did something stupid. A couple of weeks ago the weathermen forecast night time temps in the 20s here in Chicago, Zone 5. I panicked and brought in all the house plants. I also brought in my Rosemary bush which is 1 1/2 years old, which I nurtured inside all last winter under fluorescents. I placed the bush under fluorescents and for some reason it just started dying. There is some green in the leaves but it doesn't look good, a lot of stems have completely died. The root system is big and it grew in a 24" wide container. I really hoped I could overwinter it inside and have it get huge for next summer. Now it looks hopeless. Does anyone have any idea as to how to save this? I can't believe the root system would just die off like that. If I cut the entire plant down will the roots spawn new stems? I since moved the plant from fluorescents and placed it under my new HID High Pressure Sodium lights for my indoor winter garden. It gets 14 hours of "sunlight" now. The problem is, of course, trying to grow a shrub (not merely a perennial or annual) outside of its proper climate. You must expend a great effort and still expect some grief. In its natural environment, rosemary has a dry summer and a not-so-dry winter (some rain but not much). The soil is "lean" but not totally devoid of nutrients. The plant grows in full sun. I have a rosemary bush in front of my house. It's more than 25 years old and is taller than I am (until I prune it). In the summer, it gets watered perhaps 3-4 times. In the winter, I let the rain take care of all watering. I never feed it. It flowers in the early spring, after which I prune it for appearance and not for renewal. Most of the pruning is to expose the gnarled branches that are so picturesque. Yes, we do get frost in the winter, sometimes several consecutive nights. But it all disappears with sunrise. We have had snow twice since I planted the rosemary; the snow never lingered more than a few hours. In the same bed as the rosemary, I have dwarf coyote bush (Baccharis pilularis) and a valley white oak (Quercus lobata). They all take the same ca rarely watered and never fed. However, since they are near line of rose bushes, I would not be surprised if their roots extend under the roses to capture some water and nutrients or even farther under my neighbor's front lawn. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19) Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/ |
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 17:20:06 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote: "Pam - gardengal" wrote in message news:8cojd.475638$mD.183276@attbi_s02... "Dan" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson wrote: Saturate with water. Rosemary wants tons of water. Rootbound plants need even more. Give lots of nitrogen, too (I feed it manure tea) and a handful of lime sprinkled around the dirt.. I've also had tough luck with Rosemary, but somehow this plant is over a year old and about 3 feet tall (no flowers yet). I believe the major trick is "EXCESSIVE watering". Don't believe the ads when they say "drought tolerant" You can't be farther away from the truth - rosemary does not need "excessive" watering, will resent it if you do, plus it requires minimal fertilizing as well. As with most plants native to a temperate zone, it is not happy being grown in the house. And it needs time to acclimatize from being outside. Keep in very bright but indirect light, water sparingly and increase humidity levels by adding a glass or two of water to the general vicinity. Keep out of drafts or away from direct sources of heat. pam - gardengal I agree about the humidity, although I say this only in theory, because I'm still struggling with MY rosemary plants. I recall reading that they grow mightily along the Mediterrean coastline, in weird rocky soil, like beach roses. Does that point to more lime, rather than the typical bagged potting soil, which contains lots of peat moss? A small amount of agricultural lime, perhaps a tablespoon to 4 quarts of potting soil, should be enough. Put the mixture through a hardware cloth screen a couple times to integrate the lime. You can overdo the lime and kill the plant. For a plant already potted, you can put a teaspoon of *clear* household ammonia in a quart of water. (Today it seems difficult to purchase clear ammonia due to the demand increase of meth lab chemists.) |
On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 20:17:39 -0500, Dan wrote:
Does anyone know when the upright variety of rosemary starts sprouting flowers? This one is 1 1/2 years old, 3 ft tall but no flowers yet....a little upsetting :( But I am glad it's still alive...the past two died & dried out in the pot. The flowers aren't a prominent feature of rosemary. I've never noticed if a plant had to be a certain age to produce flowers -- the rather inconspicuous lavender flowers appear randomly in the foliage in spring, I believe. http://www-ang.kfunigraz.ac.at/~katz...?Rosm_off.html |
"Phisherman" wrote in message ... On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 17:20:06 GMT, "Doug Kanter" wrote: "Pam - gardengal" wrote in message news:8cojd.475638$mD.183276@attbi_s02... "Dan" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson wrote: Saturate with water. Rosemary wants tons of water. Rootbound plants need even more. Give lots of nitrogen, too (I feed it manure tea) and a handful of lime sprinkled around the dirt.. I've also had tough luck with Rosemary, but somehow this plant is over a year old and about 3 feet tall (no flowers yet). I believe the major trick is "EXCESSIVE watering". Don't believe the ads when they say "drought tolerant" You can't be farther away from the truth - rosemary does not need "excessive" watering, will resent it if you do, plus it requires minimal fertilizing as well. As with most plants native to a temperate zone, it is not happy being grown in the house. And it needs time to acclimatize from being outside. Keep in very bright but indirect light, water sparingly and increase humidity levels by adding a glass or two of water to the general vicinity. Keep out of drafts or away from direct sources of heat. pam - gardengal I agree about the humidity, although I say this only in theory, because I'm still struggling with MY rosemary plants. I recall reading that they grow mightily along the Mediterrean coastline, in weird rocky soil, like beach roses. Does that point to more lime, rather than the typical bagged potting soil, which contains lots of peat moss? A small amount of agricultural lime, perhaps a tablespoon to 4 quarts of potting soil, should be enough. Put the mixture through a hardware cloth screen a couple times to integrate the lime. You can overdo the lime and kill the plant. For a plant already potted, you can put a teaspoon of *clear* household ammonia in a quart of water. (Today it seems difficult to purchase clear ammonia due to the demand increase of meth lab chemists.) Ammonia??? I actually have the basic unadulterated stuff. It's really OK to use on plants? Wait...let's do this another way. I just bought a soil test kit and unless there's some law against it, I think I'm allowed to use it on potting soil as well as outdoor soil. What's the correct pH range for rosemary? Any idea? This raises another question: Who's more of a problem? The meth lab scientists, or the armies of Martha Stewart wannabees who gave the cleaning products industry a reason to come up with crap like "meadow dream" scented ammonia? Next thing you know, we'll pull up to the gasoline pumps and find "summer breeze high-test". :-) |
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 11:19:41 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote: "Phisherman" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 17:20:06 GMT, "Doug Kanter" wrote: "Pam - gardengal" wrote in message news:8cojd.475638$mD.183276@attbi_s02... "Dan" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 18:01:23 -0600, Mark Anderson wrote: Saturate with water. Rosemary wants tons of water. Rootbound plants need even more. Give lots of nitrogen, too (I feed it manure tea) and a handful of lime sprinkled around the dirt.. I've also had tough luck with Rosemary, but somehow this plant is over a year old and about 3 feet tall (no flowers yet). I believe the major trick is "EXCESSIVE watering". Don't believe the ads when they say "drought tolerant" You can't be farther away from the truth - rosemary does not need "excessive" watering, will resent it if you do, plus it requires minimal fertilizing as well. As with most plants native to a temperate zone, it is not happy being grown in the house. And it needs time to acclimatize from being outside. Keep in very bright but indirect light, water sparingly and increase humidity levels by adding a glass or two of water to the general vicinity. Keep out of drafts or away from direct sources of heat. pam - gardengal I agree about the humidity, although I say this only in theory, because I'm still struggling with MY rosemary plants. I recall reading that they grow mightily along the Mediterrean coastline, in weird rocky soil, like beach roses. Does that point to more lime, rather than the typical bagged potting soil, which contains lots of peat moss? A small amount of agricultural lime, perhaps a tablespoon to 4 quarts of potting soil, should be enough. Put the mixture through a hardware cloth screen a couple times to integrate the lime. You can overdo the lime and kill the plant. For a plant already potted, you can put a teaspoon of *clear* household ammonia in a quart of water. (Today it seems difficult to purchase clear ammonia due to the demand increase of meth lab chemists.) Ammonia??? I actually have the basic unadulterated stuff. It's really OK to use on plants? Wait...let's do this another way. I just bought a soil test kit and unless there's some law against it, I think I'm allowed to use it on potting soil as well as outdoor soil. What's the correct pH range for rosemary? Any idea? This raises another question: Who's more of a problem? The meth lab scientists, or the armies of Martha Stewart wannabees who gave the cleaning products industry a reason to come up with crap like "meadow dream" scented ammonia? Next thing you know, we'll pull up to the gasoline pumps and find "summer breeze high-test". :-) Household ammonia can be used as a fertilizer and to increase pH. A teaspoon to a gallon (not quart) of water is all I'd use, and then only if the pH is under 6.4. Rosemary does well in neutral soil--(my herb book says 6 to 7.5). If your rosemary soil pH tests in this range, leave it alone. Use distilled water for your test (tap water is not doesn't necessarily neutral.) As others have stated, the worse thing for rosemary is wet soil. Oh yeah. I'm sure everyone feels so much safer now that Martha is in jail. Personally, she doesn't do anything for me, but the hatred people have for her is something I don't understand. Walmart now limits the sale of clear ammonia to one quart per customer. |
Frogleg wrote: On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 20:17:39 -0500, Dan wrote: Does anyone know when the upright variety of rosemary starts sprouting flowers? This one is 1 1/2 years old, 3 ft tall but no flowers yet....a little upsetting :( But I am glad it's still alive...the past two died & dried out in the pot. The flowers aren't a prominent feature of rosemary. I've never noticed if a plant had to be a certain age to produce flowers -- the rather inconspicuous lavender flowers appear randomly in the foliage in spring, I believe. My one year old rosemary has yet to bloom, but the three year old bloomed for the first time this spring and is blooming again now. I'm in zone 6, TN, so I'm lucky to be able to keep them in the ground year round. (The aloes and the bay laurel need to come in soon though.) Kate |
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 08:42:59 -0600, kate
wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 20:17:39 -0500, Dan wrote: Does anyone know when the upright variety of rosemary starts sprouting flowers? This one is 1 1/2 years old, 3 ft tall but no flowers yet. The flowers aren't a prominent feature of rosemary. I've never noticed if a plant had to be a certain age to produce flowers -- the rather inconspicuous lavender flowers appear randomly in the foliage in spring, I believe. My one year old rosemary has yet to bloom, but the three year old bloomed for the first time this spring and is blooming again now. I'm in zone 6, TN, so I'm lucky to be able to keep them in the ground year round. (The aloes and the bay laurel need to come in soon though.) I just ran outside and moved my Rosemary (in a pot) to the west side of the house against a brick wall. Previous plant (in the ground) did very well there for 15 yrs or so before succumbing to a disease. Freeze warning tonight for SE Virginia. I saw some Forsythia with a few blooms the other morning. Perhaps on a similar schedule as your Rosemary. :-) |
Frogleg in :
the rather inconspicuous lavender flowers appear randomly in the foliage in spring, I believe. fl are speckly, but are nice looking when close enough. they bloom in Feb, about with almonds. there's a cv with an odd name, Arp Beauty (googled) that;s said to be somewhat hardier. (texas?) rosemary likes decent drainage. i'd avoid a heavy mix in a pot, but since rosemary uses a far-rooted dry-season strategy, you'll have ot water frequently (or hack teh folaige back. but old wood won't resprout). winters are cool and rainy, and decent drainage is not necessary then (but i wouldnt keep teh roots submerged!) |
pH shouldnt be a problem in potting mix. i don't think rosemary is picky about pH. it's used as a mass groudcover, sometimes
commercially. and the bigger cvs (4' x big) are even tougher. Phisherman in : Martha is in jail. Personally, she doesn't do anything for me, but the hatred people have for her is something I don't understand. maybe thye'd worked for her? |
David Ross in :
In the summer, it gets watered perhaps 3-4 times. yeah, the cvs we have in CA are hardier than the driest cvs, so they're native to areas that get at least 5" rain during the months CA gets at most .5"precip. (iirc from researching this years ago) http://www.mediterraneangardensociet...ficinalis.html has some info. |
What always makes me wonder about the pH is not the mix itself, but what it
becomes after being watered with tap water. At the moment, 3 of my 20 plants have white mineral deposits on the surface of the soil. It's time to start collecting rainwater or snow or whatever the hell's supposed to happen later this week. Of course, that'll contain mercury, courtesy of the Midwest....can't use that on the rosemary, since it's on the edible list..... " wrote in message ... pH shouldnt be a problem in potting mix. i don't think rosemary is picky about pH. it's used as a mass groudcover, sometimes commercially. and the bigger cvs (4' x big) are even tougher. Phisherman in : Martha is in jail. Personally, she doesn't do anything for me, but the hatred people have for her is something I don't understand. maybe thye'd worked for her? |
CA gets at most .5"precip. (iirc from researching this years ago)
Oh, I don't think you meant to say that. There is a whole lot of CA that gets over .5" precip. Even over 5 ". We in the Northern Sacramento Valley average 25 inches, October thru May. This season since Oct 1, we already have 4.85 inches. Paradise in the foothills gets into the 40 inch average What about the North Coast, Eureka & Arcata? much more If we count snow as precip. Lassen Nat Park gets average of 40 feet of snow! Maybe you meant .5 inches during the summer months???? Emilie NorCal Central Valley, not 'Death Valley' :) CA is a big, |
Frogleg wrote:
On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 20:17:39 -0500, Dan wrote: Does anyone know when the upright variety of rosemary starts sprouting flowers? This one is 1 1/2 years old, 3 ft tall but no flowers yet....a little upsetting :( But I am glad it's still alive...the past two died & dried out in the pot. The flowers aren't a prominent feature of rosemary. I've never noticed if a plant had to be a certain age to produce flowers -- the rather inconspicuous lavender flowers appear randomly in the foliage in spring, I believe. http://www-ang.kfunigraz.ac.at/~katz...?Rosm_off.html My rosemary bush has a major rush of flowers in the spring. Some branches are solid blue. Nearby, there is a slope with a trailing rosemary where you can't see foliage when the plants are in full bloom. While individual flowers are quite small, the mass of flowers is significant. Some varieties are indeed chosen because of their bloom. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19) Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/ |
David Ross wrote in message ...
My rosemary bush has a major rush of flowers in the spring. Some branches are solid blue. Nearby, there is a slope with a trailing rosemary where you can't see foliage when the plants are in full bloom. While individual flowers are quite small, the mass of flowers is significant. Some varieties are indeed chosen because of their bloom. the one you have was bred for ground cover. Its taste is much inferior to the one grown as a herb. |
simy1 wrote:
David Ross wrote in message ... My rosemary bush has a major rush of flowers in the spring. Some branches are solid blue. Nearby, there is a slope with a trailing rosemary where you can't see foliage when the plants are in full bloom. While individual flowers are quite small, the mass of flowers is significant. Some varieties are indeed chosen because of their bloom. the one you have was bred for ground cover. Its taste is much inferior to the one grown as a herb. No, you apparently missed my earlier message in this thread. My rosemary is not a ground cover. It's a bush taller than I am. The trunk is about 2-3 inches in diameter at the ground. It was purchased as an herb (more than 25 years ago). It has excellent flavor and yet flowers profusely in the spring. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19) Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/ |
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