problem Willow
 

This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10 inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.

The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.

If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you have
to say.

Thanks

problem Willow
 

"Loren" u27944@uwe wrote in message news:67ddd425d38ac@uwe...
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I
built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10
inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed
trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.

The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could
reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.

If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that
will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you
have
to say.

Thanks

have you tried roundup on the tender new shoots?

problem Willow
 

I have tried roundup, but likely not in the quantities that might be
necessary. I will give that a shot.



Don wrote:
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]

Thanks

have you tried roundup on the tender new shoots?

problem Willow
 

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

problem Willow
 

Loren wrote:
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10 inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.

The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.

If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you have
to say.

Thanks


I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle
around the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half
inches in diameter and from eight to ten inches deep. Fill them with
salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing product.
The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker growth
from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you can
apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except
the plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.

problem Willow
 

"A. Pismo Clam" wrote in message
...
Loren wrote:
This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I
built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10
inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed
trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.
The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I
have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could
reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.
If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that
will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you
have
to say.

Thanks


I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.

Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?


Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.

problem Willow
 

Srgnt Billko wrote:
"A. Pismo Clam" wrote in message
...

Loren wrote:

This past winter, I removed a problem willow tree that was blowing so
badly
it threatened my house should it decide to fall. Shortly thereafter, I
built
a low deck, whose corner covers most of the stump to within about 10
inches
of the top of what remains (which was about 18" high). I have removed
trees
before and stumps have just stayed that way - stumps. Willows, however
appear to be a little more resilient than say, cedars or firs.
The willow has continued to grow despite my desire that it not, and I
have
dozens of new starts from the stump shooting up through and around my new
deck. I have tried digging up the portions of the stump that I could
reach
and severing them from the roots, but that has been ineffective. I keep
cutting them down every couple of weeks, but woudl like to find a more
permanent solution.

What I need to do is find a way to kill the willow - roots and all.
If anyone is familiar with this problem, or just knows of somethign that
will
kill a large former tree, I would be very interested in hearing what you
have
to say.

Thanks



I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.


Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?


Electric drill with a 1" auger bit. Willow is a soft wood anyway. I've
drilled 1" holes in a 36" dia. Elm stump with a Ryobi 18 volt cordless.
I had to change the batteries more than usual, but it worked.


Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.






--
Bill
in Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, delete the double zeroes after @

problem Willow
 

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, but before, very very important, is to
drill and many deep holes in the stump as you can, and fill the holes with
it.

problem Willow
 

Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.

--
Eggs

-Did you know that dolphins are so intelligent that within only a few weeks
of captivity, they can train Americans to stand at the very edge of the
pool and throw them fish.

problem Willow
 

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.

--
Eggs

The bottle of roundup concentrate has instructions for using it full
strength.

problem Willow
 

"Chas Hurst" wrote:
"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.

--
Eggs

The bottle of roundup concentrate has instructions for using it full
strength.

I'd try painting it on the new growth full strength..willow's are tuff
stuff.

problem Willow
 

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.
SOME consumer products have instructions for use at full strength, and in
this case roundup does for extremely problem weeds/vegitation.
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at full
strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the earth,
and is WAY too concentrated.

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the
earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills! :)

problem Willow
 

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the
earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling
crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills! :)
Hmmmmm but then the MOE would probably pull up and give me a large fine and
take all my oil!

problem Willow
 

Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a try.
I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill off the
tree?

--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.


Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?



Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.


You can get a "speed-bore" bit at HD or Lowe's or any hardware store for
1 1/2". They work great in a 1/2" drill motor. If all you have is a 3/8"
variable speed drill motor, begin by using a slower speed, then increase
speed as you go deeper.

BTW, since the post has returned an abundance of votes for using
RoundUp, why not save yourself a lot of money and use a product called,
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.

When the patent ran out on Monsanto's formula, Monterey picked up the
ball and made the same stuff. Sew the link below:

http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q...1ee-sp00000002

problem Willow
 

A. Pismo Clam said:


I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.


Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?



Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.


You can get a "speed-bore" bit at HD or Lowe's or any hardware store for
1 1/2". They work great in a 1/2" drill motor. If all you have is a 3/8"
variable speed drill motor, begin by using a slower speed, then increase
speed as you go deeper.

BTW, since the post has returned an abundance of votes for using
RoundUp, why not save yourself a lot of money and use a product called,
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.

When the patent ran out on Monsanto's formula, Monterey picked up the
ball and made the same stuff. Sew the link below:

http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q...1ee-sp00000002


Yup. Spending the money on Roundup, because of the name, is foolish
anymore. Look on the label for Glyphosate. (Check the strength, though.
There are some weaker solutions, which will cost you more in the long run.)

Good advice. =)

--
Eggs

-Opportunities always look bigger going than coming.

problem Willow
 

Mike said:

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.
SOME consumer products have instructions for use at full strength, and in
this case roundup does for extremely problem weeds/vegitation.
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at full
strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the earth,
and is WAY too concentrated.

Same here. Wicked stuff.

Guess I really wanted to say, "Read the entire label, twice.". =)

--
Eggs

Do vegetarians eat animal crackers?

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on
at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through
the earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling
crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills! :)

Hmmmmm but then the MOE would probably pull up and give me a large fine
and take all my oil!

Taliban?

problem Willow
 

"A. Pismo Clam" wrote:
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.

**** watered round-up. whoopie.

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on
at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through
the earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling
crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills! :)

Hmmmmm but then the MOE would probably pull up and give me a large fine
and take all my oil!

Taliban?
haha no ministry of environment. Use of a pesticide off label can be big big
money up here.

problem Willow
 

"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a try.
I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill off
the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup, repeat
a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month later and
you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
Taliban?

haha no ministry of environment. Use of a pesticide off label can be big
big money up here.

Hey all we need is N Korea to agree now! ha

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill
off the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup,
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry on.

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

like others, i run a sapling war all year long with roundup. it doesnt
really kill the stump to fast ,but eventually will (years) because if it
cant have leaves it cant live. have long fence rows and find it easier
to spray saplings when little rather than cutting them down when big.
lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

problem Willow
 

The issue is that it is mostly under a low deck, so traditional grinding is
not really an option.

Steveo wrote:
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry on.


--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill
off the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup,
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry
on.

Under a deck though?

problem Willow
 

Mike said:

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill
off the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup,
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry
on.

Under a deck though?

It probably should have been ground out prior to building the deck, but I
suppose that's moot. =)

If the deck is screwed together, it should still be an option. Perhaps a
bit labor-intensive, but an option nonetheless. Simply a matter of
numbering the undersides of the boards, as they're removed to make it easy
to replace them.

The problem I see with using some chemical to "dissolve" the stump, would
possibly lead to a stability problem with the deck. Nothing like a nice
cavity appearing under a foundation. Which actually brings up the question
of whether or not removing the stump from the ground will cause damage to
the deck's support areas. Sure, you could kill it off with some Roundup,
but there's still the remains of the stump to be dealt with.

A pic of the area would be a plus. =)
--
Eggs

-It is easier to get forgiveness than permission.

problem Willow
 

Admiting that in hindsight, it should have been ground before the deck. But
as I mentioned in the initial post, I had taken out stumps before and they
had stayed just stumps for years. So cutting this low enough to build a deck
over did not seem like an issue. I would have an ugly stump, but it would be
under the deck and never seen. I just wasn't familiar with WIllows - I am
now.

Don't know why I felt the need to explain this... Maybe b/c I appreciate the
help.



Eggs Zachtly wrote:
Mike said:

Under a deck though?

It probably should have been ground out prior to building the deck, but I
suppose that's moot. =)



--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

I'll get a pic to illustrate.

Thanks

--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote:
The issue is that it is mostly under a low deck, so traditional grinding
is not really an option.

Well it was probably an option before you built a deck over it eh? :-)

Don't tell anyone but I've killed one of those willow stumps with kerosene
in small regular doses. There wasn't deck over it though, and I was able to
set it on fire eventually..it took better than a year to finally die. You
can't let the kerosene get on the surrounding grass or plant material.

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry
on.

Under a deck though?

How far under, and are there posts in the way?

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

[Top-posting fixed]

Loren via HomeKB.com said:

Eggs Zachtly wrote:
Mike said:

Under a deck though?

It probably should have been ground out prior to building the deck, but I
suppose that's moot. =)


Admiting that in hindsight, it should have been ground before the deck. But
as I mentioned in the initial post, I had taken out stumps before and they
had stayed just stumps for years. So cutting this low enough to build a deck
over did not seem like an issue. I would have an ugly stump, but it would be
under the deck and never seen. I just wasn't familiar with WIllows - I am
now.

'Tis why I said it was "moot". But, you still haven't answered, as to my
other points.

Is the deck screwed together, so that it could be partially disassembled,
in order to grind out the stump?

Is the stump situated in a position, so that were you to remove it, you
would be jeopardizing the integrity of the deck?


Don't know why I felt the need to explain this... Maybe b/c I appreciate the
help.


Yup, was no reason to explain. "Manure occurs." ;)
--
Eggs

Can a storm be officially designated as a tornado without touching down at
a trailer park?

problem Willow
 

The decking is screwed on but the joists are nailed. Taking the decking off
woudl get me better access for drilling, but not allow a grinder. ALso
withthe grinder - my house sits significantly above the street and alley.
There is not ramp, driveway or hill to roll anything up - only stairs and
retaining walls, so it woudl be difficult to get any type of serious grinder
up there.

I have a picture, its not a great one, but if it possible to upload to this
site and someone can tutor me how to do it, I would get it up for viewing.

Thanks

--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

Loren via HomeKB.com said:

The decking is screwed on but the joists are nailed. Taking the decking off
woudl get me better access for drilling, but not allow a grinder.

Understood. Still, having as much access to the stump as possible will
help, no matter the method you choose.


ALso
withthe grinder - my house sits significantly above the street and alley.
There is not ramp, driveway or hill to roll anything up - only stairs and
retaining walls, so it woudl be difficult to get any type of serious grinder
up there.

"Serious" grinders are self propelled. =)


I have a picture, its not a great one, but if it possible to upload to this
site and someone can tutor me how to do it, I would get it up for viewing.

As this isn't a binary group, it's best to not attach it to a message.
Uploading it to one of the miriad of free web sites, and then posting the
link to the pic here, would be the best way to go. If you're unsure where
to look for one, entering "free image hosting" in your favorite search
engine should get you started.


HTH
--
Eggs

-If you're too open-minded, your brains will fall out.

problem Willow
 

Tree AND Internet knowledge. You people are amazing!

Here's the link

http://www.fotothing.com/Loren/

As it is now dark when I leave for work as well as when I get home, I wasn't
able to get a good daylight picture of the stump. It is deceiving, but there
is about 8 inches between the top of the stump and the bottom of the deck.
And the stump is about halfway under the deck. There is about a three foot
cantilever, so the stump is a good distance away fromt the footing.

What you see is about 5 weeks growth.

--
Message posted via http://www.homekb.com

problem Willow
 

Loren via HomeKB.com said:

Tree AND Internet knowledge. You people are amazing!

Here's the link

http://www.fotothing.com/Loren/

As it is now dark when I leave for work as well as when I get home, I wasn't
able to get a good daylight picture of the stump. It is deceiving, but there
is about 8 inches between the top of the stump and the bottom of the deck.
And the stump is about halfway under the deck. There is about a three foot
cantilever, so the stump is a good distance away fromt the footing.

What you see is about 5 weeks growth.

What kind of Salix was this, again? I'm not sure you said. If you did, I
can't find it. =(

If it were me, I think I'd still opt for removing the section of the deck
that's over the stump, and remove it (the stump) properly (grinding). If
you're careful, you shouldn't damage any of the joists, when
removing/replacing them.

--
Eggs

A piece of motorway and piece of dual carriage way are enjoying a drink in
the pub. In walks a piece of red tarmac. The motorway whispers to the
carrageway "Come on lets drink up and go before the trouble starts; He's a
cyclepath!"

problem Willow
 

"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:6804402f2c51d@uwe...
Tree AND Internet knowledge. You people are amazing!

Here's the link

http://www.fotothing.com/Loren/

As it is now dark when I leave for work as well as when I get home, I
wasn't
able to get a good daylight picture of the stump. It is deceiving, but
there
is about 8 inches between the top of the stump and the bottom of the deck.
And the stump is about halfway under the deck. There is about a three foot
cantilever, so the stump is a good distance away fromt the footing.

What you see is about 5 weeks growth.


Nice picture posting. If it were me I would probably pick off all of the
new growth as it buds out of the stump until it finally gives up. This
would mean doing it often. The idea is to not let it get this big, which is
replenishing the roots with its sunlight generated food.

I know that this comment is about different plants, but I do this for big
old multiflora stumps that I cut down and also wild grape vines. Both of
these persist and I keep at them until they give up and rot out after a
couple of years. If I had this problem I would use the same approach and
see how it goes, expecting it to work eventually.
Tomes