wrote:
Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride on
it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch with a
tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.

The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.

It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.


I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on this
newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
blades?

I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they were
too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,before
you go over the whole lawn.

--
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wrote:
wrote:
Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride
on it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch
with a tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.

The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.

It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.


I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on
this
newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
blades?

I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they
were
too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,
before you go over the whole lawn.

I should add,the cutting deck height is the key. Start high,and lower
slowly till your only entering the thatch layer 1/4 inch or so. If your
tearing up the good turf, STOP!

--
God Bless America - http://members.aol.com/flyitproudly/flag.html

------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ --------------------
go #40 Usenet Newsgroup Service

This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.

Thurston


"F Paul" wrote in message
om...
SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
lawn.

Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
the spring, or what??

Thanks for any help.
FP

"thurston" wrote:
This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.

Thurston

Really Thurston? I didn't see anything about lawn renovation in that
link..another hit for it though..

"F Paul" wrote in message
om...
SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
lawn.

Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
the spring, or what??

Thanks for any help.
FP

--
God Bless America - http://members.aol.com/flyitproudly/flag.html

------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ --------------------
go #40 Usenet Newsgroup Service

wrote:
Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride on
it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch with a
tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.

The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.

It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.


I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on this
newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
blades?

I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they were
too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,before
you go over the whole lawn.

--
God Bless America - http://members.aol.com/flyitproudly/flag.html

------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ --------------------
go #40 Usenet Newsgroup Service

wrote:
wrote:
Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride
on it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch
with a tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.

The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.

It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.


I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on
this
newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
blades?

I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they
were
too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,
before you go over the whole lawn.

I should add,the cutting deck height is the key. Start high,and lower
slowly till your only entering the thatch layer 1/4 inch or so. If your
tearing up the good turf, STOP!

--
God Bless America - http://members.aol.com/flyitproudly/flag.html

------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ --------------------
go #40 Usenet Newsgroup Service

This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.

Thurston


"F Paul" wrote in message
om...
SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
lawn.

Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
the spring, or what??

Thanks for any help.
FP

"thurston" wrote:
This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.

Thurston

Really Thurston? I didn't see anything about lawn renovation in that
link..another hit for it though..

"F Paul" wrote in message
om...
SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
lawn.

Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
the spring, or what??

Thanks for any help.
FP

--
God Bless America - http://members.aol.com/flyitproudly/flag.html

------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ --------------------
go #40 Usenet Newsgroup Service