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-   -   Deflasking/Compot after Care? (https://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/orchids/100642-deflasking-compot-after-care.html)

sandra 28-07-2005 10:18 PM

Deflasking/Compot after Care?
 
Hey Everyone,
I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask,
but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need
humidity, light, nut, ect.
I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after
care.
Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose
them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need
as well?
Thanks
Sandra


Phalguy 28-07-2005 11:04 PM

Hello Sandra!

Go there and scroll down to: Deflasking Demystified! Very easy!

http://www.bedfordorchids.com/flasks...%20Demystified

Claude

"sandra" wrote in message
ups.com...
| Hey Everyone,
| I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask,
| but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need
| humidity, light, nut, ect.
| I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after
| care.
| Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose
| them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need
| as well?
| Thanks
| Sandra
|



Ray 29-07-2005 01:43 AM

Sandra,

I carry clear domes intended to go with standard nursery trays (which I also
carry), specifically for that purpose.

Not a very good picture of the two together, but you'll get the idea:
http://www.firstrays.com/Pictures/dome.jpg

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"sandra" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey Everyone,
I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask,
but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need
humidity, light, nut, ect.
I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after
care.
Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose
them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need
as well?
Thanks
Sandra




Mick Fournier 29-07-2005 02:24 AM

You all,

We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in
stock.
This is Misty (SM/SFOS)
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg

If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x
Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these
blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral sepal.
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg

Mick Fournier
HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask
www.OrchidFlask.com




Susan Erickson 29-07-2005 05:37 AM

On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 21:24:41 -0400, "Mick Fournier"
wrote:

You all,

We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in
stock.
This is Misty (SM/SFOS)
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg

If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x
Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these
blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral sepal.
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg

Mick Fournier
HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask
www.OrchidFlask.com


Mick your plants are almost enough to convert me to growing
phals. Almost.

Very pretty. Especially the 'blue' no I mean Misty... well I
don't know which I like better. Lovely.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

Mick Fournier 29-07-2005 12:15 PM

Sue,

Phalaenopsis are nice, but I prefer to devote more time to Cattleya and
Neofinetia falcata.

Mick



J Fortuna 29-07-2005 12:51 PM

Mick,
These are stunning!
Joanna

"Mick Fournier" wrote in message
.. .
You all,

We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in
stock.
This is Misty (SM/SFOS)

http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg

If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot)

x
Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these
blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral

sepal.

http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg

Mick Fournier
HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask
www.OrchidFlask.com






Mick Fournier 30-07-2005 12:32 AM

Joanna,

Yes, it is nice... but doesn't anyone who is really anyone in the orchid
collecting world already have something like this?

I sat in front of this flower ie Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x
Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") last night for an hour struggling to figure
what pollen to put on this flower. I have pollen from George Vasquez, blue
violacea, huge bright amablis-type shocking pinks, Spirit House, and the
list goes on... but I just could not figure what to add to this flower that
would enhance it to make it (more) desirable. So I wound up putting nothing
on it. I think the Koreans have already taken this line of Phal breeding to
its Nth degree end. No American is going to improve on it anymore.

Mick
==========================



"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:gLoGe.11717$mU3.2647@trnddc02...
Mick,
These are stunning!
Joanna

"Mick Fournier" wrote in message
.. .
You all,

We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in
stock.
This is Misty (SM/SFOS)


http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg

If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red

Hot)
x
Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these
blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral

sepal.


http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg

Mick Fournier
HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask
www.OrchidFlask.com








sandra 30-07-2005 01:16 AM

Mick your Phals are gorgeous,
I've been looking at some flasking sights including yours, and I've
never come across
Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba).
Is it a rarer variety, or is just violacea var alba?

Ray, I also wanted to know, your domes, they don't appear to have some
kind of open or closable vents, could I just leave the domes off the
trays for about an hour a day, to accustom the seedlings to a lower
humidity?
What about ideas for Air circulation?
Thanks
-Sandra


Mick Fournier 30-07-2005 04:29 AM

Sandra,

The violacea breaks into 3 groupings" bellina, murtoniana and bowringiana.
Bellina is the type we all think of when we think of violaceas generally (ie
Borneo form). Murtoniana has the exaggerated long lateral sepals and the
bowringiana is most easily identifiable when we see petals and sepals very
nearly all the same length and the flower has a much "rounder" look to it.

Albas may show up 1 in a swarm of 1000, bowringianas may comprise 10% of all
violaceas... but that is just my opinion/guess. I don't have any scientific
proof on those numbers, but I am sure some anal retentive numbers
statistician will write here with his facts/findings in a few more minutes.

In my life I have only seen three violacea alba bowringianas... and I
crossed two of the three.

Mick

------------------------------------------------------




"sandra" wrote in message
oups.com...
Mick your Phals are gorgeous,
I've been looking at some flasking sights including yours, and I've
never come across
Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba).
Is it a rarer variety, or is just violacea var alba?

Ray, I also wanted to know, your domes, they don't appear to have some
kind of open or closable vents, could I just leave the domes off the
trays for about an hour a day, to accustom the seedlings to a lower
humidity?
What about ideas for Air circulation?
Thanks
-Sandra




Ray 30-07-2005 01:01 PM

They merely sit on top of the tray, and are not perforated or vented. There
is enough leakage where the dome and tray meet to allow some air
circulation, and I find that it is unnecessary to open the dome until I'm
ready to put the plants in the general greenhouse population.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"sandra" wrote in message
oups.com...
Mick your Phals are gorgeous,
I've been looking at some flasking sights including yours, and I've
never come across
Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba).
Is it a rarer variety, or is just violacea var alba?

Ray, I also wanted to know, your domes, they don't appear to have some
kind of open or closable vents, could I just leave the domes off the
trays for about an hour a day, to accustom the seedlings to a lower
humidity?
What about ideas for Air circulation?
Thanks
-Sandra




V_coerulea 30-07-2005 09:53 PM

Most flasks I get I pot into 4" pots for compots. A flask may take more than
1 pot. After I spray the new compot with Dithane, I place it on a clean
saucer from a 8-10" hanging basket and cover it with a 5" clear pot (also
available from Ray). This keeps the humidity level up while allowing some
air circulation and the escape of excess heat. If more shade is needed, I
invert another saucer on top of the clear pot (which is probably a good idea
for the first few days anyway, especially if you're in a greenhouse). Remove
the top saucer after a few days. After a week, remove the clear pot for a
few hours a day and increase the time gradually depending on the ambient
humidity. These mini-greenhouses are very convenient, take up little space
and are very configurable for each species. Good luck with the phals.
Gary
"sandra" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey Everyone,
I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask,
but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need
humidity, light, nut, ect.
I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after
care.
Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose
them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need
as well?
Thanks
Sandra




Kenni Judd 31-07-2005 05:43 PM

Sandra: We do not grow Phals from the bottle, so maybe they are "fussier"
as babies. But we've grown out hundreds of bottles of Catt species and
hybrids, and a few other things, with good success -- and we do not do most
of the things that have been advised so far.

1. We do not attempt to remove agar.
2. We do not try to separate the little plantlets coming out of the bottle.
3. We do not treat specially with fungicide.
4. We do not do anything to increase humidity for the compots.

What we do is break the bottle, slide out the entire mass of plantlets, agar
and all, and divide it in half (disturbing it as little as possible). Each
half goes into a compot, and then a little more seedling mix around the
edges. Then they go right out onto the benches and get the same water,
food, etc. as our other plants. The only difference is an extra layer of
shadecloth over the compot bench. The agar does not contaminate, once it's
out of the bottle (it gradually rinses out, after a few waterings), and
seems to cushion the transition.

70% humidity doesn't sound too low to me.

Good growing,
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com




"sandra" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey Everyone,
I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask,
but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need
humidity, light, nut, ect.
I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after
care.
Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose
them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need
as well?
Thanks
Sandra





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