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#1
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Deflasking/Compot after Care?
Hey Everyone,
I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask, but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need humidity, light, nut, ect. I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after care. Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need as well? Thanks Sandra |
#2
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Hello Sandra!
Go there and scroll down to: Deflasking Demystified! Very easy! http://www.bedfordorchids.com/flasks...%20Demystified Claude "sandra" wrote in message ups.com... | Hey Everyone, | I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask, | but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need | humidity, light, nut, ect. | I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after | care. | Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose | them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need | as well? | Thanks | Sandra | |
#3
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Sandra,
I carry clear domes intended to go with standard nursery trays (which I also carry), specifically for that purpose. Not a very good picture of the two together, but you'll get the idea: http://www.firstrays.com/Pictures/dome.jpg -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info! "sandra" wrote in message ups.com... Hey Everyone, I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask, but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need humidity, light, nut, ect. I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after care. Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need as well? Thanks Sandra |
#4
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You all,
We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in stock. This is Misty (SM/SFOS) http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral sepal. http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg Mick Fournier HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask www.OrchidFlask.com |
#5
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On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 21:24:41 -0400, "Mick Fournier"
wrote: You all, We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in stock. This is Misty (SM/SFOS) http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral sepal. http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg Mick Fournier HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask www.OrchidFlask.com Mick your plants are almost enough to convert me to growing phals. Almost. Very pretty. Especially the 'blue' no I mean Misty... well I don't know which I like better. Lovely. SuE http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php |
#6
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Sue,
Phalaenopsis are nice, but I prefer to devote more time to Cattleya and Neofinetia falcata. Mick |
#7
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Mick,
These are stunning! Joanna "Mick Fournier" wrote in message .. . You all, We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in stock. This is Misty (SM/SFOS) http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral sepal. http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg Mick Fournier HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask www.OrchidFlask.com |
#8
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Joanna,
Yes, it is nice... but doesn't anyone who is really anyone in the orchid collecting world already have something like this? I sat in front of this flower ie Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") last night for an hour struggling to figure what pollen to put on this flower. I have pollen from George Vasquez, blue violacea, huge bright amablis-type shocking pinks, Spirit House, and the list goes on... but I just could not figure what to add to this flower that would enhance it to make it (more) desirable. So I wound up putting nothing on it. I think the Koreans have already taken this line of Phal breeding to its Nth degree end. No American is going to improve on it anymore. Mick ========================== "J Fortuna" wrote in message news:gLoGe.11717$mU3.2647@trnddc02... Mick, These are stunning! Joanna "Mick Fournier" wrote in message .. . You all, We still have Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba) flasks in stock. This is Misty (SM/SFOS) http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...albamisty1.jpg If you happened to have bought flasks of Phal ((Luedde-Violacea x Red Hot) x Luedde-Violacea "Green Giant") from HBI then you should be seeing these blooming now with 2-1/4" from tip of lateral sepal to tip of lateral sepal. http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/f...edhotxlvgg.jpg Mick Fournier HBI, Producers of Fine Orchids in Flask www.OrchidFlask.com |
#9
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Mick your Phals are gorgeous,
I've been looking at some flasking sights including yours, and I've never come across Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba). Is it a rarer variety, or is just violacea var alba? Ray, I also wanted to know, your domes, they don't appear to have some kind of open or closable vents, could I just leave the domes off the trays for about an hour a day, to accustom the seedlings to a lower humidity? What about ideas for Air circulation? Thanks -Sandra |
#10
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Sandra,
The violacea breaks into 3 groupings" bellina, murtoniana and bowringiana. Bellina is the type we all think of when we think of violaceas generally (ie Borneo form). Murtoniana has the exaggerated long lateral sepals and the bowringiana is most easily identifiable when we see petals and sepals very nearly all the same length and the flower has a much "rounder" look to it. Albas may show up 1 in a swarm of 1000, bowringianas may comprise 10% of all violaceas... but that is just my opinion/guess. I don't have any scientific proof on those numbers, but I am sure some anal retentive numbers statistician will write here with his facts/findings in a few more minutes. In my life I have only seen three violacea alba bowringianas... and I crossed two of the three. Mick ------------------------------------------------------ "sandra" wrote in message oups.com... Mick your Phals are gorgeous, I've been looking at some flasking sights including yours, and I've never come across Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba). Is it a rarer variety, or is just violacea var alba? Ray, I also wanted to know, your domes, they don't appear to have some kind of open or closable vents, could I just leave the domes off the trays for about an hour a day, to accustom the seedlings to a lower humidity? What about ideas for Air circulation? Thanks -Sandra |
#11
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They merely sit on top of the tray, and are not perforated or vented. There
is enough leakage where the dome and tray meet to allow some air circulation, and I find that it is unnecessary to open the dome until I'm ready to put the plants in the general greenhouse population. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info! "sandra" wrote in message oups.com... Mick your Phals are gorgeous, I've been looking at some flasking sights including yours, and I've never come across Phalaenopsis var bowringiana alba (Misty x alba). Is it a rarer variety, or is just violacea var alba? Ray, I also wanted to know, your domes, they don't appear to have some kind of open or closable vents, could I just leave the domes off the trays for about an hour a day, to accustom the seedlings to a lower humidity? What about ideas for Air circulation? Thanks -Sandra |
#12
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Most flasks I get I pot into 4" pots for compots. A flask may take more than
1 pot. After I spray the new compot with Dithane, I place it on a clean saucer from a 8-10" hanging basket and cover it with a 5" clear pot (also available from Ray). This keeps the humidity level up while allowing some air circulation and the escape of excess heat. If more shade is needed, I invert another saucer on top of the clear pot (which is probably a good idea for the first few days anyway, especially if you're in a greenhouse). Remove the top saucer after a few days. After a week, remove the clear pot for a few hours a day and increase the time gradually depending on the ambient humidity. These mini-greenhouses are very convenient, take up little space and are very configurable for each species. Good luck with the phals. Gary "sandra" wrote in message ups.com... Hey Everyone, I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask, but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need humidity, light, nut, ect. I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after care. Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need as well? Thanks Sandra |
#13
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Sandra: We do not grow Phals from the bottle, so maybe they are "fussier"
as babies. But we've grown out hundreds of bottles of Catt species and hybrids, and a few other things, with good success -- and we do not do most of the things that have been advised so far. 1. We do not attempt to remove agar. 2. We do not try to separate the little plantlets coming out of the bottle. 3. We do not treat specially with fungicide. 4. We do not do anything to increase humidity for the compots. What we do is break the bottle, slide out the entire mass of plantlets, agar and all, and divide it in half (disturbing it as little as possible). Each half goes into a compot, and then a little more seedling mix around the edges. Then they go right out onto the benches and get the same water, food, etc. as our other plants. The only difference is an extra layer of shadecloth over the compot bench. The agar does not contaminate, once it's out of the bottle (it gradually rinses out, after a few waterings), and seems to cushion the transition. 70% humidity doesn't sound too low to me. Good growing, -- Kenni Judd Juno Beach Orchids http://www.jborchids.com "sandra" wrote in message ups.com... Hey Everyone, I'm thinking about purchasing a phalaenopsis violacea var alba flask, but I just want to know what kind of after care the compot might need humidity, light, nut, ect. I know how to get them out of the jar and sterilize them, but not after care. Are there any kind of flats I can buy with domes that can slowly expose them to 70 percent humidity, what kind of light and temps do they need as well? Thanks Sandra |
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