sick cymbidium pics
I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he
http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/ the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40 degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens are happy. the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia. any assistance as to what is the brown rot? |
sick cymbidium pics
I have a stupid question, but why is this in a house? Are you in Europe? I
have a friend that blooms these indoors in England, the weather is just too inclement to grow Cyms outside like we do here. Well, it certainly seems to be a well grown plant. Otherwise, as you said, you can get them to flower but just not bloom, so you are 75% of the way. You don't say whether you get the spikes wet when you water. Try watering only the potting medium next time a spike starts to form and see if that helps. Don't try to get the spike or leaves wet so bacteria/fungus won't be encouraged to grow. As the spike emerges its a tight whorl and water gets trapped inside and starts this sort of problem. Also I don't see any sort of fan in the growing area, but it may be out of frame. Increasing airflow will help plants dry off by nightfall ('don't send your plants to bed with wet feet' is a rule. Their leaves and spikes should be dry by nightfall.) I can't remember the proper time to repot a Cym, but it can be critical to reblooming. If I recall correctly you said you've given portions of this plant to other people which have bloomed for them, so if you can remember the time of year at which you divided the Cym and repot it into fresh mix, just so you can check its roots. I'd try that after correcting my watering habits. Sometimes bacteria etc enter the plant through rotten roots. However, usually that attacks the *whole* plant rather than just the spike. My two cents, K Barrett "gerald" wrote in message ... I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/ the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40 degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens are happy. the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia. any assistance as to what is the brown rot? |
sick cymbidium pics
It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have
been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy. thank you for your interest and reply On Wed, 14 Feb. 2007 08:50:55 -0800, "K Barrett" wrote: I have a stupid question, but why is this in a house? Are you in Europe? I have a friend that blooms these indoors in England, the weather is just too inclement to grow Cyms outside like we do here. Well, it certainly seems to be a well grown plant. Otherwise, as you said, you can get them to flower but just not bloom, so you are 75% of the way. You don't say whether you get the spikes wet when you water. Try watering only the potting medium next time a spike starts to form and see if that helps. Don't try to get the spike or leaves wet so bacteria/fungus won't be encouraged to grow. As the spike emerges its a tight whorl and water gets trapped inside and starts this sort of problem. Also I don't see any sort of fan in the growing area, but it may be out of frame. Increasing airflow will help plants dry off by nightfall ('don't send your plants to bed with wet feet' is a rule. Their leaves and spikes should be dry by nightfall.) I can't remember the proper time to repot a Cym, but it can be critical to reblooming. If I recall correctly you said you've given portions of this plant to other people which have bloomed for them, so if you can remember the time of year at which you divided the Cym and repot it into fresh mix, just so you can check its roots. I'd try that after correcting my watering habits. Sometimes bacteria etc enter the plant through rotten roots. However, usually that attacks the *whole* plant rather than just the spike. My two cents, K Barrett "gerald" wrote in message .. . I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/ the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40 degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens are happy. the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia. any assistance as to what is the brown rot? |
sick cymbidium pics
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:05:08 -0500, gerald wrote:
It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy. thank you for your interest and reply Cym are heavy feeders while in flower and until late summer. DO NOT feed them in the fall. Some friends potted in 50% well composted manure and 50% older mix.. the stuff that got soggy in the potting bin and is not good enough for fussy plants. This way he did not have to feed the plant. They sometimes will sulk if potted too late in the year. I agree the first spike looks rotted (moisture damage), the second appears to me more mechanical as if assisted too much out of the leaves. It may or may not complete the season. You did not say if this was a pale flower. Take the rotting bulbs out of the center when you repot. Some appeared to be on the verge. Generally once the heavy growth that is a spike appears it is just a matter of protecting that from severe weather (yes, bring it in at 40 or even below 55). Your plant has not had time in the ground to acclimate as a garden planted cym would in CA. Protect it also from manipulation - (don't try to peak, poke or pinch). Protect it from pests (are those white specks below the spike in photo xx11 & xx12 bugs or water reflections?) and water in the whorl of leaves. Good luck. These beauties are tricky to bloom well when you can not put them out and let them naturalize. SuE http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/main.php |
sick cymbidium pics
Can't really offer help, but this was my first year with one, and my stalks
did something very similar. Had three stalks, two went the same direction as yours, but one flowered! Perhaps it is just the nature of the beast? Otherwise, I too hope for someone who can offer more advice. "gerald" wrote in message ... I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/ the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40 degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens are happy. the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia. any assistance as to what is the brown rot? |
sick cymbidium pics
"SuE" wrote in message ... On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:05:08 -0500, gerald wrote: It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy. thank you for your interest and reply Cym are heavy feeders while in flower and until late summer. DO NOT feed them in the fall. Some friends potted in 50% well composted manure and 50% older mix.. the stuff that got soggy in the potting bin and is not good enough for fussy plants. This way he did not have to feed the plant. They sometimes will sulk if potted too late in the year. I agree the first spike looks rotted (moisture damage), the second appears to me more mechanical as if assisted too much out of the leaves. It may or may not complete the season. You did not say if this was a pale flower. Take the rotting bulbs out of the center when you repot. Some appeared to be on the verge. Generally once the heavy growth that is a spike appears it is just a matter of protecting that from severe weather (yes, bring it in at 40 or even below 55). Your plant has not had time in the ground to acclimate as a garden planted cym would in CA. Protect it also from manipulation - (don't try to peak, poke or pinch). Protect it from pests (are those white specks below the spike in photo xx11 & xx12 bugs or water reflections?) and water in the whorl of leaves. Good luck. These beauties are tricky to bloom well when you can not put them out and let them naturalize. SuE http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/main.php I agree,water in the leaves or crowns of the bulbs is a big problem.So very careful watering is needed.Mine goes outside when the risk of frost has passed,so learning from last year similar problems to you they will still go outside but with some sort of cover over them. Thanks Keith |
sick cymbidium pics
From personal experience: I move my cyms to a protected location when
the temps drop to the mid 30's F or when spikes are identifiable. That's only ballpark. One needs freezing or below, some initiate in the 40's. All were out in the snow last year when the weather took me by surprise. I do not bring them into the house proper, because I think the temperature is too warm for them. Some absolutely require a cool dry rest while the spike and buds are developing. That may be part of the problem, the increased temperature may have accelerated their growth cycle or interrupted the rest cycle. In Alabama, I only moved them to a protected enclosure (garage, shed, etc.), rarely heated to more than 45 F. at night, daytime temps were managed by solar gain and could go into the 70's. During the winter, I water very little, or not at all. Watch the bulbs for that one. Here in Missouri, they are in my growing room. Cym. pots are on or close to the floor, at the south end for best light. Heaters are set to turn on at 58F-60F, Cyms are in the brightest corner, farthest away from the heaters. It is probably the coolest, draftiest part of the room, undoubted the brightest. As said before, I don't give them much water, only at the mix around the base of the plant. They may get some overspray when I mist or water hanging baskets, but that is only on a clear day when the temps are above 70F. The humidity stays around 60%. Cyms have drippy sappy buds even when they are healthy. You should cut off the rotted buds before they damage or infect the rest of your plant. Maybe sprinkle some cinnamon on the bulbs and mix. Divide and transplant in about 6 weeks =/-. about 3 weeks before their active growing season. In Missouri, they are moved outside in May, so I try to have the transplanting completed the last of March or in April. Have a helper and sharp tools, cyms have the toughest roots and are labor intensive to divide. BTW, the buds on mine have never rotted like yours, Occasionally will lose on bud out of the spike. Getting them to bloom was achieved after subjecting them to an adequate chill. Mine are not delicate and insist on "their season" to bloom. Best wishes, Nancy On Feb 14, 1:05 pm, gerald wrote: It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy. thank you for your interest and reply On Wed, 14 Feb. 2007 08:50:55 -0800, "K Barrett" wrote: I have a stupid question, but why is this in a house? Are you in Europe? I have a friend that blooms these indoors in England, the weather is just too inclement to grow Cyms outside like we do here. Well, it certainly seems to be a well grown plant. Otherwise, as you said, you can get them to flower but just not bloom, so you are 75% of the way. You don't say whether you get the spikes wet when you water. Try watering only the potting medium next time a spike starts to form and see if that helps. Don't try to get the spike or leaves wet so bacteria/fungus won't be encouraged to grow. As the spike emerges its a tight whorl and water gets trapped inside and starts this sort of problem. Also I don't see any sort of fan in the growing area, but it may be out of frame. Increasing airflow will help plants dry off by nightfall ('don't send your plants to bed with wet feet' is a rule. Their leaves and spikes should be dry by nightfall.) I can't remember the proper time to repot a Cym, but it can be critical to reblooming. If I recall correctly you said you've given portions of this plant to other people which have bloomed for them, so if you can remember the time of year at which you divided the Cym and repot it into fresh mix, just so you can check its roots. I'd try that after correcting my watering habits. Sometimes bacteria etc enter the plant through rotten roots. However, usually that attacks the *whole* plant rather than just the spike. My two cents, K Barrett "gerald" wrote in message .. . I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/ the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40 degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens are happy. the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia. any assistance as to what is the brown rot?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
sick cymbidium pics
"gerald" wrote in message ... I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/ the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40 degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens are happy. the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia. any assistance as to what is the brown rot? Warm nights can cause buds to abort then rot?cool nights warmer days are required. Thanks Keith |
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