I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he

http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/

the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40
degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens
are happy.

the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds
form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this
plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia.

any assistance as to what is the brown rot?

I have a stupid question, but why is this in a house? Are you in Europe? I
have a friend that blooms these indoors in England, the weather is just too
inclement to grow Cyms outside like we do here.

Well, it certainly seems to be a well grown plant. Otherwise, as you said,
you can get them to flower but just not bloom, so you are 75% of the way.

You don't say whether you get the spikes wet when you water. Try watering
only the potting medium next time a spike starts to form and see if that
helps. Don't try to get the spike or leaves wet so bacteria/fungus won't be
encouraged to grow. As the spike emerges its a tight whorl and water gets
trapped inside and starts this sort of problem. Also I don't see any sort
of fan in the growing area, but it may be out of frame. Increasing airflow
will help plants dry off by nightfall ('don't send your plants to bed with
wet feet' is a rule. Their leaves and spikes should be dry by nightfall.)

I can't remember the proper time to repot a Cym, but it can be critical to
reblooming. If I recall correctly you said you've given portions of this
plant to other people which have bloomed for them, so if you can remember
the time of year at which you divided the Cym and repot it into fresh mix,
just so you can check its roots. I'd try that after correcting my watering
habits. Sometimes bacteria etc enter the plant through rotten roots.
However, usually that attacks the *whole* plant rather than just the spike.

My two cents,

K Barrett





"gerald" wrote in message
...
I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he

http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/

the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40
degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens
are happy.

the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds
form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this
plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia.

any assistance as to what is the brown rot?

It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have
been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to
throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check
dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy.

thank you for your interest and reply

On Wed, 14 Feb. 2007 08:50:55 -0800, "K Barrett"
wrote:

I have a stupid question, but why is this in a house? Are you in Europe? I
have a friend that blooms these indoors in England, the weather is just too
inclement to grow Cyms outside like we do here.

Well, it certainly seems to be a well grown plant. Otherwise, as you said,
you can get them to flower but just not bloom, so you are 75% of the way.

You don't say whether you get the spikes wet when you water. Try watering
only the potting medium next time a spike starts to form and see if that
helps. Don't try to get the spike or leaves wet so bacteria/fungus won't be
encouraged to grow. As the spike emerges its a tight whorl and water gets
trapped inside and starts this sort of problem. Also I don't see any sort
of fan in the growing area, but it may be out of frame. Increasing airflow
will help plants dry off by nightfall ('don't send your plants to bed with
wet feet' is a rule. Their leaves and spikes should be dry by nightfall.)

I can't remember the proper time to repot a Cym, but it can be critical to
reblooming. If I recall correctly you said you've given portions of this
plant to other people which have bloomed for them, so if you can remember
the time of year at which you divided the Cym and repot it into fresh mix,
just so you can check its roots. I'd try that after correcting my watering
habits. Sometimes bacteria etc enter the plant through rotten roots.
However, usually that attacks the *whole* plant rather than just the spike.

My two cents,

K Barrett





"gerald" wrote in message
.. .
I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he

http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/

the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40
degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens
are happy.

the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds
form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this
plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia.

any assistance as to what is the brown rot?

On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:05:08 -0500, gerald wrote:

It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have
been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to
throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check
dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy.

thank you for your interest and reply

Cym are heavy feeders while in flower and until late summer. DO NOT
feed them in the fall. Some friends potted in 50% well composted
manure and 50% older mix.. the stuff that got soggy in the potting bin
and is not good enough for fussy plants. This way he did not have to
feed the plant. They sometimes will sulk if potted too late in the
year.

I agree the first spike looks rotted (moisture damage), the second
appears to me more mechanical as if assisted too much out of the
leaves. It may or may not complete the season. You did not say if
this was a pale flower. Take the rotting bulbs out of the center when
you repot. Some appeared to be on the verge.

Generally once the heavy growth that is a spike appears it is just a
matter of protecting that from severe weather (yes, bring it in at 40
or even below 55). Your plant has not had time in the ground to
acclimate as a garden planted cym would in CA. Protect it also from
manipulation - (don't try to peak, poke or pinch). Protect it from
pests (are those white specks below the spike in photo xx11 & xx12
bugs or water reflections?) and water in the whorl of leaves.

Good luck. These beauties are tricky to bloom well when you can not
put them out and let them naturalize.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/main.php

Can't really offer help, but this was my first year with one, and my stalks
did something very similar. Had three stalks, two went the same direction
as yours, but one flowered! Perhaps it is just the nature of the beast?
Otherwise, I too hope for someone who can offer more advice.

"gerald" wrote in message
...
I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he

http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/

the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40
degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens
are happy.

the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds
form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this
plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia.

any assistance as to what is the brown rot?

"SuE" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:05:08 -0500, gerald wrote:

It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have
been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to
throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check
dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy.

thank you for your interest and reply

Cym are heavy feeders while in flower and until late summer. DO NOT
feed them in the fall. Some friends potted in 50% well composted
manure and 50% older mix.. the stuff that got soggy in the potting bin
and is not good enough for fussy plants. This way he did not have to
feed the plant. They sometimes will sulk if potted too late in the
year.

I agree the first spike looks rotted (moisture damage), the second
appears to me more mechanical as if assisted too much out of the
leaves. It may or may not complete the season. You did not say if
this was a pale flower. Take the rotting bulbs out of the center when
you repot. Some appeared to be on the verge.

Generally once the heavy growth that is a spike appears it is just a
matter of protecting that from severe weather (yes, bring it in at 40
or even below 55). Your plant has not had time in the ground to
acclimate as a garden planted cym would in CA. Protect it also from
manipulation - (don't try to peak, poke or pinch). Protect it from
pests (are those white specks below the spike in photo xx11 & xx12
bugs or water reflections?) and water in the whorl of leaves.

Good luck. These beauties are tricky to bloom well when you can not
put them out and let them naturalize.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/main.php

I agree,water in the leaves or crowns of the bulbs is a big problem.So very
careful watering is needed.Mine goes outside when the risk of frost has
passed,so learning from last year similar problems to you they will still go
outside but with some sort of cover over them.
Thanks Keith

From personal experience: I move my cyms to a protected location when
the temps drop to the mid 30's F or when spikes are identifiable.
That's only ballpark. One needs freezing or below, some initiate in
the 40's. All were out in the snow last year when the weather took me
by surprise. I do not bring them into the house proper, because I
think the temperature is too warm for them. Some absolutely require a
cool dry rest while the spike and buds are developing. That may be
part of the problem, the increased temperature may have accelerated
their growth cycle or interrupted the rest cycle.

In Alabama, I only moved them to a protected enclosure (garage, shed,
etc.), rarely heated to more than 45 F. at night, daytime temps were
managed by solar gain and could go into the 70's. During the winter,
I water very little, or not at all. Watch the bulbs for that one.
Here in Missouri, they are in my growing room. Cym. pots are on or
close to the floor, at the south end for best light. Heaters are set
to turn on at 58F-60F, Cyms are in the brightest corner, farthest away
from the heaters. It is probably the coolest, draftiest part of the
room, undoubted the brightest. As said before, I don't give them much
water, only at the mix around the base of the plant. They may get
some overspray when I mist or water hanging baskets, but that is only
on a clear day when the temps are above 70F. The humidity stays
around 60%.

Cyms have drippy sappy buds even when they are healthy. You should
cut off the rotted buds before they damage or infect the rest of your
plant. Maybe sprinkle some cinnamon on the bulbs and mix.

Divide and transplant in about 6 weeks =/-. about 3 weeks before their
active growing season. In Missouri, they are moved outside in May, so
I try to have the transplanting completed the last of March or in
April. Have a helper and sharp tools, cyms have the toughest roots
and are labor intensive to divide.

BTW, the buds on mine have never rotted like yours, Occasionally will
lose on bud out of the spike. Getting them to bloom was achieved
after subjecting them to an adequate chill. Mine are not delicate and
insist on "their season" to bloom.
Best wishes,

Nancy

On Feb 14, 1:05 pm, gerald wrote:
It is in the house, as I am in Washington dc. temps this month have
been in the low teens all month(F). Plenty of room in the middle to
throw water and avoid the leaves. I use a wet meter to check
dampness. it is definitely time to repot this guy.

thank you for your interest and reply

On Wed, 14 Feb. 2007 08:50:55 -0800, "K Barrett"



wrote:
I have a stupid question, but why is this in a house? Are you in Europe? I
have a friend that blooms these indoors in England, the weather is just too
inclement to grow Cyms outside like we do here.

Well, it certainly seems to be a well grown plant. Otherwise, as you said,
you can get them to flower but just not bloom, so you are 75% of the way.

You don't say whether you get the spikes wet when you water. Try watering
only the potting medium next time a spike starts to form and see if that
helps. Don't try to get the spike or leaves wet so bacteria/fungus won't be
encouraged to grow. As the spike emerges its a tight whorl and water gets
trapped inside and starts this sort of problem. Also I don't see any sort
of fan in the growing area, but it may be out of frame. Increasing airflow
will help plants dry off by nightfall ('don't send your plants to bed with
wet feet' is a rule. Their leaves and spikes should be dry by nightfall.)

I can't remember the proper time to repot a Cym, but it can be critical to
reblooming. If I recall correctly you said you've given portions of this
plant to other people which have bloomed for them, so if you can remember
the time of year at which you divided the Cym and repot it into fresh mix,
just so you can check its roots. I'd try that after correcting my watering
habits. Sometimes bacteria etc enter the plant through rotten roots.
However, usually that attacks the *whole* plant rather than just the spike.

My two cents,

K Barrett

"gerald" wrote in message
.. .
I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he

http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/

the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40
degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens
are happy.

the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds
form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this
plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia.

any assistance as to what is the brown rot?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"gerald" wrote in message
...
I have posted pictures of my sick cymbidium he

http://slawecki.com/cymbidium/

the plant is indoors. came in when temps got down to under 40
degrees. Is in a relatively humid environment, where cats and dens
are happy.

the shoots started just about the time the plant came in. the buds
form, then turn brown rot. 2 of 3 shoots(spikes?) are brown rot. this
plant is over 12" in dia, and each bulb is over 2" in dia.

any assistance as to what is the brown rot?

Warm nights can cause buds to abort then rot?cool nights warmer days are
required.
Thanks Keith