Two questions from a rank beginner
 

I've been lurking around since I received my first orchid on Mother's Day,
knowing that eventually I would have a question for you. Now, I actually
have two:

The first question regards a phalaenopsis that I received from my husband
in early May. It looked very healthy, with two spikes and at least a dozen
blooms, with some buds. I did a little research and put it on a coffee
table where it would get indirect light from an eastern exposure but no
direct sun. I watered in every few days, checking to make sure it wasn't
getting too soggy. The flowers lasted through all of May and June, finally
fading one at a time starting in early July. I still have 3 blooms left. I
cut one of the spikes back when it lost its last bloom. One of the leaves
is turning yellow starting from the base of the leaf. The other leaves look
unaffected and perfectly healthy. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong and
how to correct my error before any more damage occurs?

The second question regards my second orchid. It is a dendrobium (Burana
Wan) that had lost all its blooms and was looking a bit neglected. I got it
at a local discount store for $4.99. I figure for that price I can try to
help the poor thing. I put this one on a table facing a west window. There
is an overhang, so it doesn't get much direct sun at all, but lots of light.
It has some nice fat green little tubers??? or roots??? (I don't know what
they are called sorry) coming from the bottom of one stem. They appear to
be reaching for the medium. There is one stalk that has no growth at all.
The other two have leaves that appear to be burned at the tips, and their
color is a bit yellowish/green, otherwise they appear strong and thick. Can
this orchid be saved? If so, how?

Thanks for any help you can offer. I've gotten some books from the local
library, but sometimes they give too much information. I just found myself
getting confused.

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Welcome to our group Shea, you will get some great help here.
I can't help with indoor growing culture but the biggest killer is
overwatering!
Be very patient & remember that orchids take a while to grow, bloom & die!
Cheers Wendy
"Shea" wrote in message
om...
I've been lurking around since I received my first orchid on Mother's Day,
knowing that eventually I would have a question for you. Now, I actually
have two:

The first question regards a phalaenopsis that I received from my husband
in early May. It looked very healthy, with two spikes and at least a
dozen
blooms, with some buds. I did a little research and put it on a coffee
table where it would get indirect light from an eastern exposure but no
direct sun. I watered in every few days, checking to make sure it wasn't
getting too soggy. The flowers lasted through all of May and June,
finally
fading one at a time starting in early July. I still have 3 blooms left.
I
cut one of the spikes back when it lost its last bloom. One of the leaves
is turning yellow starting from the base of the leaf. The other leaves
look
unaffected and perfectly healthy. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong
and
how to correct my error before any more damage occurs?

The second question regards my second orchid. It is a dendrobium (Burana
Wan) that had lost all its blooms and was looking a bit neglected. I got
it
at a local discount store for $4.99. I figure for that price I can try to
help the poor thing. I put this one on a table facing a west window.
There
is an overhang, so it doesn't get much direct sun at all, but lots of
light.
It has some nice fat green little tubers??? or roots??? (I don't know
what
they are called sorry) coming from the bottom of one stem. They appear to
be reaching for the medium. There is one stalk that has no growth at all.
The other two have leaves that appear to be burned at the tips, and their
color is a bit yellowish/green, otherwise they appear strong and thick.
Can
this orchid be saved? If so, how?

Thanks for any help you can offer. I've gotten some books from the local
library, but sometimes they give too much information. I just found
myself
getting confused.

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Shea,

First of all, welcome to this wonderful addiction and the newsgroup! Never
hesitate to ask anything.

Loss of a lower leaf on a phal is a reasonably normal part of the growth
process, and you should start seeing new leaves growing from the top soon.
If it continues with other leaves, it may be a sign that the root system is
compromised, usually indicating root rot due to overwatering and/or
decomposing medium that is not allowing free air exchange to the root
system. You'll have to be the judge of that, and can share more info if you
want more advice in that arena.

I would also suggest that the phal could probably be moved to somewhat
brighter conditions. I picture the coffee table in the middle of the room,
maybe ten feet from the window. If that's a good guess, then for all
practical purposes, your plant is getting almost no light at all. Direct,
early-morning sun is not too much for a phal, assuming it wouldn't get the
direct sun all morning, so once it's stopped blooming, you can probably
consider moving it closer to the window. The cooling effect of air
conditioning actually helps that a bit.

As to the dendrobium, I'm not a great source of info, so will let others
take over, but it sounds like you're described new root growth, which is a
good sign. The stalks of the dendrobium at pseudobulbs, which serve as
storage vessels for water and nutrition for the whole plant, even long after
they have bloomed and lost all of their leaves. Actually, each is its own
plant, with the individuals joined via a rhizome. That is the typical
growth habit of sympodial orchids, as opposed to the monopodial growth habit
of the phalaenopsis.

This I can tell you, though: more light! I see from your email address that
you're in the Tampa area, so maybe transitioning it to full sun isn't a
great idea, but up here in Pennsylvania, the 2 or three I have are up high
in the greenhouse, getting almost full sun.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"Shea" wrote in message
om...
I've been lurking around since I received my first orchid on Mother's Day,
knowing that eventually I would have a question for you. Now, I actually
have two:

The first question regards a phalaenopsis that I received from my husband
in early May. It looked very healthy, with two spikes and at least a
dozen
blooms, with some buds. I did a little research and put it on a coffee
table where it would get indirect light from an eastern exposure but no
direct sun. I watered in every few days, checking to make sure it wasn't
getting too soggy. The flowers lasted through all of May and June,
finally
fading one at a time starting in early July. I still have 3 blooms left.
I
cut one of the spikes back when it lost its last bloom. One of the leaves
is turning yellow starting from the base of the leaf. The other leaves
look
unaffected and perfectly healthy. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong
and
how to correct my error before any more damage occurs?

The second question regards my second orchid. It is a dendrobium (Burana
Wan) that had lost all its blooms and was looking a bit neglected. I got
it
at a local discount store for $4.99. I figure for that price I can try to
help the poor thing. I put this one on a table facing a west window.
There
is an overhang, so it doesn't get much direct sun at all, but lots of
light.
It has some nice fat green little tubers??? or roots??? (I don't know
what
they are called sorry) coming from the bottom of one stem. They appear to
be reaching for the medium. There is one stalk that has no growth at all.
The other two have leaves that appear to be burned at the tips, and their
color is a bit yellowish/green, otherwise they appear strong and thick.
Can
this orchid be saved? If so, how?

Thanks for any help you can offer. I've gotten some books from the local
library, but sometimes they give too much information. I just found
myself
getting confused.

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Thank you, Wendy. I realized that I probably should have added that I live
in Florida.



"Wendy" wrote in message
news:BHcSa.5848$Ne.5551@fed1read03...
Welcome to our group Shea, you will get some great help here.
I can't help with indoor growing culture but the biggest killer is
overwatering!
Be very patient & remember that orchids take a while to grow, bloom & die!
Cheers Wendy
"Shea" wrote in message
om...
I've been lurking around since I received my first orchid on Mother's
Day,
knowing that eventually I would have a question for you. Now, I
actually
have two:

The first question regards a phalaenopsis that I received from my
husband
in early May. It looked very healthy, with two spikes and at least a
dozen
blooms, with some buds. I did a little research and put it on a coffee
table where it would get indirect light from an eastern exposure but no
direct sun. I watered in every few days, checking to make sure it
wasn't
getting too soggy. The flowers lasted through all of May and June,
finally
fading one at a time starting in early July. I still have 3 blooms
left.
I
cut one of the spikes back when it lost its last bloom. One of the
leaves
is turning yellow starting from the base of the leaf. The other leaves
look
unaffected and perfectly healthy. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong
and
how to correct my error before any more damage occurs?

The second question regards my second orchid. It is a dendrobium
(Burana
Wan) that had lost all its blooms and was looking a bit neglected. I
got
it
at a local discount store for $4.99. I figure for that price I can try
to
help the poor thing. I put this one on a table facing a west window.
There
is an overhang, so it doesn't get much direct sun at all, but lots of
light.
It has some nice fat green little tubers??? or roots??? (I don't know
what
they are called sorry) coming from the bottom of one stem. They appear
to
be reaching for the medium. There is one stalk that has no growth at
all.
The other two have leaves that appear to be burned at the tips, and
their
color is a bit yellowish/green, otherwise they appear strong and thick.
Can
this orchid be saved? If so, how?

Thanks for any help you can offer. I've gotten some books from the
local
library, but sometimes they give too much information. I just found
myself
getting confused.

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Shea,

Ray has already given you great advice on the Phal, but here's my 2 cents on
the Dend. We live over in Port St. Lucie, and our orchids live outside year
round. If you have a screened in pool with good sun exposure, or a lanai or
even a balcony where the Dend can live, you might want to move it outside
gradually. Dends like high light conditions. If you move it out, though,
don't leave it completely unprotected (as in full sun, no screening or other
minimizer). As for the canes, unless they are in some way diseased, and it
doesn't sound that way, leave them be. Dends can and often do bloom on bare
canes.

For both plants, if you have not already done so, a repotting is probably in
order, if only to check the root systems. Amazing what fresh media can do!

Best,

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Diana, I have a Burana den- it is bare caned- got an idea when these get new
leaves. the plant has good roots but seems to be dormant. Got it in the
winter at Kmart on the out of bloom shelf. What about feeding it? Might give
it some super thrive to give it a jump start

Diane

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Shea,

Ray has already given you great advice on the Phal, but here's my 2 cents
on
the Dend. We live over in Port St. Lucie, and our orchids live outside
year
round. If you have a screened in pool with good sun exposure, or a lanai
or
even a balcony where the Dend can live, you might want to move it outside
gradually. Dends like high light conditions. If you move it out, though,
don't leave it completely unprotected (as in full sun, no screening or
other
minimizer). As for the canes, unless they are in some way diseased, and
it
doesn't sound that way, leave them be. Dends can and often do bloom on
bare
canes.

For both plants, if you have not already done so, a repotting is probably
in
order, if only to check the root systems. Amazing what fresh media can
do!

Best,

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Diana, I have a Burana den- it is bare caned- got an idea when these get new
leaves. the plant has good roots but seems to be dormant. Got it in the
winter at Kmart on the out of bloom shelf. What about feeding it? Might give
it some super thrive to give it a jump start

Diane

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Shea,

Ray has already given you great advice on the Phal, but here's my 2 cents
on
the Dend. We live over in Port St. Lucie, and our orchids live outside
year
round. If you have a screened in pool with good sun exposure, or a lanai
or
even a balcony where the Dend can live, you might want to move it outside
gradually. Dends like high light conditions. If you move it out, though,
don't leave it completely unprotected (as in full sun, no screening or
other
minimizer). As for the canes, unless they are in some way diseased, and
it
doesn't sound that way, leave them be. Dends can and often do bloom on
bare
canes.

For both plants, if you have not already done so, a repotting is probably
in
order, if only to check the root systems. Amazing what fresh media can
do!

Best,

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Diana, I have a Burana den- it is bare caned- got an idea when these get new
leaves. the plant has good roots but seems to be dormant. Got it in the
winter at Kmart on the out of bloom shelf. What about feeding it? Might give
it some super thrive to give it a jump start

Diane

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Shea,

Ray has already given you great advice on the Phal, but here's my 2 cents
on
the Dend. We live over in Port St. Lucie, and our orchids live outside
year
round. If you have a screened in pool with good sun exposure, or a lanai
or
even a balcony where the Dend can live, you might want to move it outside
gradually. Dends like high light conditions. If you move it out, though,
don't leave it completely unprotected (as in full sun, no screening or
other
minimizer). As for the canes, unless they are in some way diseased, and
it
doesn't sound that way, leave them be. Dends can and often do bloom on
bare
canes.

For both plants, if you have not already done so, a repotting is probably
in
order, if only to check the root systems. Amazing what fresh media can
do!

Best,

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

This is great information. Thanks so much. I'll move the phal closer to
the light. The coffee table is about 6 ft. from the sliding doors, but
since the doors lead to a covered screened porch, you are probably right
about the light. Also, it has been a crummy summer sunshine-wise. I'll
move it over here to my desk, which is right in front of a window
overlooking the port (eastern exposure). Ray, you helped a lot and put my
mind at ease on the leaf. It is definitely only the one. I will watch the
sunlight, though. Down here plants that normally need "full sun" can
sometimes literally burn to a crisp if we follow that rule.

As for the dendrobium, I'm in the process of moving it closer to outside.
I'll eventually put it on the screened porch. Getting the input from a
fellow Floridian on this was invaluable! Thanks so much, Diana! I have a
niece who works for St. Lucie county, by the way (and let's go Mets).

I'll be shopping for new medium and a fertilizer for my babies. Thanks
again. I'll keep reading and learning from you great people.


"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
...
Diana, I have a Burana den- it is bare caned- got an idea when these get
new
leaves. the plant has good roots but seems to be dormant. Got it in the
winter at Kmart on the out of bloom shelf. What about feeding it? Might
give
it some super thrive to give it a jump start

Diane

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Shea,

Ray has already given you great advice on the Phal, but here's my 2
cents
on
the Dend. We live over in Port St. Lucie, and our orchids live outside
year
round. If you have a screened in pool with good sun exposure, or a
lanai
or
even a balcony where the Dend can live, you might want to move it
outside
gradually. Dends like high light conditions. If you move it out,
though,
don't leave it completely unprotected (as in full sun, no screening or
other
minimizer). As for the canes, unless they are in some way diseased, and
it
doesn't sound that way, leave them be. Dends can and often do bloom on
bare
canes.

For both plants, if you have not already done so, a repotting is
probably
in
order, if only to check the root systems. Amazing what fresh media can
do!

Best,

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

I've progressed to actually putting the Dendrobium outside. I introduced it
to my other "orphan" - a mostly dead jade plant that Walmart was practically
giving away. It is now in the best of health and growing like crazy. They
seem to be getting along quite well, so I have high hopes.
The yellow leaf finally fell off the Phal. I'm trying to give it more
light. This is difficult lately since we've had stormy days nearly
constantly this summer. I guess the artificial light of indoors helps. I
would put it outside also, but I'm not sure if this would be a good move.
It is awfully hot.


"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
...
I like the term "antelope type Dendrobium" At least on the cork mount it
is
interesting to look at out of bloom. Put a few together for some wall art
( maybe no one will count how many plants), I'll keep giving them care- I
guess right now is the time to water away. It's nice to let the rain
showers
do my work.

I'm reading about moss- I have tons of it in my yard, I'm sure its full of
bugs though and don't know if it would thrive in the house.

Diane
"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Burana kids are pretty hardy Dends. Important to know that the bare
canes
will not grow new leaves but may flower anyway; you'll get new canes
growing from the bottom (off the rhizome). Sometimes our *rescue*
plants
(oh, yes, I do it too!) need some time to recover before starting to
grow
again, and if everything else looks good that's probably what's
happening.
Lots of light and the usual Dend culture will pay off in the end.

I went to a sale about 8 months ago, a sad case where the plant owner
was
very ill and a mutual friend was selling the collection for him, and
took
pity on a $4 Dend that was near to death. It hasn't bloomed yet, but it
has
new growth and will be okay. Patience!

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Shea,
My instincts tell me we cant do wrong in the summer since the dends like a
good watering ( well draining medium of course). Normal weather you will
have your dry days and wet days. gradually move into a sunny spot on a dend-
they like light and feed 2x a month in the summer. Remember you can get a
sunburn on a cloudy day- the sun is there. Its like a summer break from all
those trips to the sink. I damaged a plant on a unusually hot day that I
should have shaded. I'd watch for the unusual- like hale and high winds.
bummer when a plant falls to the ground and gets broken

I've only been growing these for the past year myself, so I haven't seen the
annual cycle on my dends. it will be a real treat to see what I have
developed with a years worth of care. If anyone has taken a orchid out of
rainy weather it would be interesting to hear.

"Shea" wrote in message
om...
I've progressed to actually putting the Dendrobium outside. I introduced
it
to my other "orphan" - a mostly dead jade plant that Walmart was
practically
giving away. It is now in the best of health and growing like crazy.
They
seem to be getting along quite well, so I have high hopes.
The yellow leaf finally fell off the Phal. I'm trying to give it more
light. This is difficult lately since we've had stormy days nearly
constantly this summer. I guess the artificial light of indoors helps. I
would put it outside also, but I'm not sure if this would be a good move.
It is awfully hot.


"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
...
I like the term "antelope type Dendrobium" At least on the cork mount
it
is
interesting to look at out of bloom. Put a few together for some wall
art
( maybe no one will count how many plants), I'll keep giving them care-
I
guess right now is the time to water away. It's nice to let the rain
showers
do my work.

I'm reading about moss- I have tons of it in my yard, I'm sure its full
of
bugs though and don't know if it would thrive in the house.

Diane
"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Burana kids are pretty hardy Dends. Important to know that the bare
canes
will not grow new leaves but may flower anyway; you'll get new canes
growing from the bottom (off the rhizome). Sometimes our *rescue*
plants
(oh, yes, I do it too!) need some time to recover before starting to
grow
again, and if everything else looks good that's probably what's
happening.
Lots of light and the usual Dend culture will pay off in the end.

I went to a sale about 8 months ago, a sad case where the plant owner
was
very ill and a mutual friend was selling the collection for him, and
took
pity on a $4 Dend that was near to death. It hasn't bloomed yet, but
it
has
new growth and will be okay. Patience!

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

My Dends need to put up with whatever the weather dictates, unless we have a
winter like last year (cold, cold, cold), when I foolishly took them in.
Better to have left them outside but semi protected (against the house,
perhaps). Now, I have too many to cart around, so am looking at ways to
warm their area if it gets cold next winter. In general, Dends are the most
forgiving of all my genera.

I grow them in rock or Aliflor, with the exception of the hirstute Dends,
which have made it know n that they want more moisture (yes, they talk to
me). Growing in a fast drying medium works well in FL, for Dends and
Catts. I know it's different in other climates. Remember, in nature it
doesn't necessarily rain every Tuesday.............

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Diana,

You have a benefit of being able to keep your plants out year long-I get the
benefit of the great variety of temperature- minus 20, don't think my
collection could take the wintering, but we do have native orchids here.
Some of the orchids need that temp drop-cymbidiums are a favorite up here.

You do get that occasional freeze in Fl. I guess those days you dine in
front of the TV while you fill the table up with pots.

Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
rthlink.net...
My Dends need to put up with whatever the weather dictates, unless we have
a
winter like last year (cold, cold, cold), when I foolishly took them in.
Better to have left them outside but semi protected (against the house,
perhaps). Now, I have too many to cart around, so am looking at ways to
warm their area if it gets cold next winter. In general, Dends are the
most
forgiving of all my genera.

I grow them in rock or Aliflor, with the exception of the hirstute Dends,
which have made it know n that they want more moisture (yes, they talk to
me). Growing in a fast drying medium works well in FL, for Dends and
Catts. I know it's different in other climates. Remember, in nature it
doesn't necessarily rain every Tuesday.............

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Speaking of hirstute Dends, my Green Lantern has 2 keikis that I thought
were new shoots. Is this another dend that likes to make keikis or was it my
care.


"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
rthlink.net...
My Dends need to put up with whatever the weather dictates, unless we have
a
winter like last year (cold, cold, cold), when I foolishly took them in.
Better to have left them outside but semi protected (against the house,
perhaps). Now, I have too many to cart around, so am looking at ways to
warm their area if it gets cold next winter. In general, Dends are the
most
forgiving of all my genera.

I grow them in rock or Aliflor, with the exception of the hirstute Dends,
which have made it know n that they want more moisture (yes, they talk to
me). Growing in a fast drying medium works well in FL, for Dends and
Catts. I know it's different in other climates. Remember, in nature it
doesn't necessarily rain every Tuesday.............

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

"Shea" wrote in message .com...
This is great information. Thanks so much. I'll move the phal closer to
the light. The coffee table is about 6 ft. from the sliding doors, but
since the doors lead to a covered screened porch, you are probably right
about the light. Also, it has been a crummy summer sunshine-wise.

If you have a covered, screened porch, I would move the Phalaenopsis
out there. Just put it on the side of the porch that gets the least
direct sun. IIRC insect netting acts roughly like 50% shade cloth,
but even so, direct sun will be too much for a Phal. The Phalaenopsis
will greatly appreciate the increased humidity outdoors at this time
of year, and you may see much better root growth. If you leave it out
in the porch until night temperatures start to drop into the 50's this
autumn, you may well get better flower production next year.

Nick

--

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

My Hiroshi Tokunaga, another hirsute, has a keike habit as well. Go figure.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Diane,

Actually, in the late fall and winter months, when the plants need it the
most, we do get a good diurnal range. The Phals love it. As for the
occasional frost (never really a freeze around here), it's rare, but did
happen last winter. Hoping for better this time. My back can't take moving
all those plants around (I have a Den. discolor that's taller than my
husband, and he's 6'3", so you can imagine what it weighs), and you're right
about the dining room table. And the floor. And the coffee table in the
living room. And around the roman tub in the master bath. And under the
windows in the family room. Etc!

All of which is why we're looking at a way to provide some warmth outside
this year, if we need to. Probably a combination of water and light or
propane heater.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

I'd think something like a 2x4 frame bench/greenhouse that you could put
plastic around- if the temp is getting too cold around you could tape up
Styrofoam sheets that would come down when the cold snap leaves. At least
some of the orchids could stay outside and you just bring in your warm
lovers. Store the stro walls with your hurricane lumber

I cant get more orchids than my plant corner can hold. My husband thinks my
40 is too much already although small and mostly free. Bewildering- I could
bring home 10 flats of annuals that die -no problem
"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Actually, in the late fall and winter months, when the plants need it the
most, we do get a good diurnal range. The Phals love it. As for the
occasional frost (never really a freeze around here), it's rare, but did
happen last winter. Hoping for better this time. My back can't take
moving
all those plants around (I have a Den. discolor that's taller than my
husband, and he's 6'3", so you can imagine what it weighs), and you're
right
about the dining room table. And the floor. And the coffee table in the
living room. And around the roman tub in the master bath. And under the
windows in the family room. Etc!

All of which is why we're looking at a way to provide some warmth outside
this year, if we need to. Probably a combination of water and light or
propane heater.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Diana, what about those heating cables, I have some in my greenhouse for the
few phals,
for extra warmth. You can connect them to a timer & they do keep the pots
warm.
I got mine from Charleys but you can probably find them in your neck of the
woods.
Cheers Wendy

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Actually, in the late fall and winter months, when the plants need it the
most, we do get a good diurnal range. The Phals love it. As for the
occasional frost (never really a freeze around here), it's rare, but did
happen last winter. Hoping for better this time. My back can't take
moving
all those plants around (I have a Den. discolor that's taller than my
husband, and he's 6'3", so you can imagine what it weighs), and you're
right
about the dining room table. And the floor. And the coffee table in the
living room. And around the roman tub in the master bath. And under the
windows in the family room. Etc!

All of which is why we're looking at a way to provide some warmth outside
this year, if we need to. Probably a combination of water and light or
propane heater.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Lots are small here - no room for another structure. But Frank has some
ideas for temporary enclosure of the lanai addition if we need it. I mean,
if it gets too cold we're talking a few days, not weeks or months. All will
be well.

Diana

"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
t...
I'd think something like a 2x4 frame bench/greenhouse that you could put
plastic around- if the temp is getting too cold around you could tape up
Styrofoam sheets that would come down when the cold snap leaves. At least
some of the orchids could stay outside and you just bring in your warm
lovers. Store the stro walls with your hurricane lumber

I cant get more orchids than my plant corner can hold. My husband thinks
my
40 is too much already although small and mostly free. Bewildering- I
could
bring home 10 flats of annuals that die -no problem
"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Actually, in the late fall and winter months, when the plants need it
the
most, we do get a good diurnal range. The Phals love it. As for the
occasional frost (never really a freeze around here), it's rare, but did
happen last winter. Hoping for better this time. My back can't take
moving
all those plants around (I have a Den. discolor that's taller than my
husband, and he's 6'3", so you can imagine what it weighs), and you're
right
about the dining room table. And the floor. And the coffee table in
the
living room. And around the roman tub in the master bath. And under
the
windows in the family room. Etc!

All of which is why we're looking at a way to provide some warmth
outside
this year, if we need to. Probably a combination of water and light or
propane heater.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Wendy,

Actually, Frank has some heat units that sit under the pots - he used to use
them to start veggie plants inside when we lived in CT. And weatherproof
cables are certainly another possibility.

Diana

"Wendy" wrote in message
news:waKTa.24066$Ne.8899@fed1read03...
Diana, what about those heating cables, I have some in my greenhouse for
the
few phals,
for extra warmth. You can connect them to a timer & they do keep the pots
warm.
I got mine from Charleys but you can probably find them in your neck of
the
woods.
Cheers Wendy

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Actually, in the late fall and winter months, when the plants need it
the
most, we do get a good diurnal range. The Phals love it. As for the
occasional frost (never really a freeze around here), it's rare, but did
happen last winter. Hoping for better this time. My back can't take
moving
all those plants around (I have a Den. discolor that's taller than my
husband, and he's 6'3", so you can imagine what it weighs), and you're
right
about the dining room table. And the floor. And the coffee table in
the
living room. And around the roman tub in the master bath. And under
the
windows in the family room. Etc!

All of which is why we're looking at a way to provide some warmth
outside
this year, if we need to. Probably a combination of water and light or
propane heater.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

By heating cables do you mean the same as does used in an aquarium?
Peter
"Wendy" schreef in bericht
news:waKTa.24066$Ne.8899@fed1read03...
Diana, what about those heating cables, I have some in my greenhouse for
the
few phals,
for extra warmth. You can connect them to a timer & they do keep the pots
warm.
I got mine from Charleys but you can probably find them in your neck of
the
woods.
Cheers Wendy

"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Diane,

Actually, in the late fall and winter months, when the plants need it
the
most, we do get a good diurnal range. The Phals love it. As for the
occasional frost (never really a freeze around here), it's rare, but did
happen last winter. Hoping for better this time. My back can't take
moving
all those plants around (I have a Den. discolor that's taller than my
husband, and he's 6'3", so you can imagine what it weighs), and you're
right
about the dining room table. And the floor. And the coffee table in
the
living room. And around the roman tub in the master bath. And under
the
windows in the family room. Etc!

All of which is why we're looking at a way to provide some warmth
outside
this year, if we need to. Probably a combination of water and light or
propane heater.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Thanks for answering the next question I was composing in my head all day
today. I just don't think it has been getting the light it needs indoors
this summer. We have been getting an awful lot of rain here in the Tampa
area, and many of the days have only a few hours of sun, mostly in early
morning, so the phal may be getting some light, but not as much as it
probably should. I've been thinking of moving it to a spot close to the
house near the northeast corner, which would only get sun for a couple of
hours, and then, as you pointed out, filtered through the screen. And as
for humidity......right now it is 94%. And since the temp at night won't be
in the 50s until sometime in November, we should be in good shape for some
time to come. I will move it today.



"Myrmecodia" wrote in message
om...
"Shea" wrote in message
.com...
This is great information. Thanks so much. I'll move the phal closer
to
the light. The coffee table is about 6 ft. from the sliding doors, but
since the doors lead to a covered screened porch, you are probably right
about the light. Also, it has been a crummy summer sunshine-wise.

If you have a covered, screened porch, I would move the Phalaenopsis
out there. Just put it on the side of the porch that gets the least
direct sun. IIRC insect netting acts roughly like 50% shade cloth,
but even so, direct sun will be too much for a Phal. The Phalaenopsis
will greatly appreciate the increased humidity outdoors at this time
of year, and you may see much better root growth. If you leave it out
in the porch until night temperatures start to drop into the 50's this
autumn, you may well get better flower production next year.

Nick

--

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 19:59:33 GMT, "Shea"
wrote:

clip I've been thinking of moving it to a spot close to the
house near the northeast corner, which would only get sun for a couple of
hours, and then, as you pointed out, filtered through the screen. And as
for humidity......right now it is 94%. And since the temp at night won't be
in the 50s until sometime in November, we should be in good shape for some
time to come. I will move it today.


I would not put a Phal outside unless you have complete shade
from 10 to 6 and only dappled sun before that. They do not want
direct sun. They want bright light, Not sun.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Okay, I'll watch for a day or two and see exactly what that spot is getting
and when before doing anything. Thanks for the warning, Susan.


"Susan Erickson" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 19:59:33 GMT, "Shea"
wrote:

clip I've been thinking of moving it to a spot close to the
house near the northeast corner, which would only get sun for a couple of
hours, and then, as you pointed out, filtered through the screen. And
as
for humidity......right now it is 94%. And since the temp at night won't
be
in the 50s until sometime in November, we should be in good shape for
some
time to come. I will move it today.


I would not put a Phal outside unless you have complete shade
from 10 to 6 and only dappled sun before that. They do not want
direct sun. They want bright light, Not sun.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Peter,

No. Actually, I think 'cables' was a misleading word. What I'm really
thinking of is pads that have heat elements running through them. There was
a discussion some time back about this. I'm going to research the subject
on Google.

Diana

Two questions from a rank beginner
 

Thanks, I asked because I'm looking for a way to heat my minigreenhouse
during the winter. I know that some years back there were cabels used in
aquariums and terrariums. I'm hoping they can be used in my improvised
greenhouse.
Pete
"Diana Kulaga" schreef in bericht
arthlink.net...
Peter,

No. Actually, I think 'cables' was a misleading word. What I'm really
thinking of is pads that have heat elements running through them. There
was
a discussion some time back about this. I'm going to research the subject
on Google.

Diana