Is there a trick to growing larger pbs on Cattleyas? I have one plant that
took years (10 to be exact) before it grew a large enough pb to flower. It
has flowered since. I gave it cooler night temperatures in the winter, but
the bulb was already larger. Thanks for any input.

Here's my take on that subject: Ample food , water, and warmth when in
active growth, continued through blooming. After that, cooler conditions -
especially at night - to slow respiration. Don't remove back bulbs until
they are spent.

Basically, seedlings, being small, have less surface area for food
production and less volume for storage. Once a plant matures, it is robust
enough to grow at "gang buster" rates.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"Doris Salzmann" wrote in message
...
Is there a trick to growing larger pbs on Cattleyas? I have one plant that
took years (10 to be exact) before it grew a large enough pb to flower.
It
has flowered since. I gave it cooler night temperatures in the winter, but
the bulb was already larger. Thanks for any input.

Here's my take on that subject: Ample food , water, and warmth when in
active growth, continued through blooming. After that, cooler conditions -
especially at night - to slow respiration. Don't remove back bulbs until
they are spent.

Basically, seedlings, being small, have less surface area for food
production and less volume for storage. Once a plant matures, it is robust
enough to grow at "gang buster" rates.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"Doris Salzmann" wrote in message
...
Is there a trick to growing larger pbs on Cattleyas? I have one plant that
took years (10 to be exact) before it grew a large enough pb to flower.
It
has flowered since. I gave it cooler night temperatures in the winter, but
the bulb was already larger. Thanks for any input.

On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 13:21:57 -0500, "Ray"
wrote:

Here's my take on that subject: Ample food , water, and warmth when in
active growth, continued through blooming. After that, cooler conditions -
especially at night - to slow respiration. Don't remove back bulbs until
they are spent.

Basically, seedlings, being small, have less surface area for food
production and less volume for storage. Once a plant matures, it is robust
enough to grow at "gang buster" rates.

I think it is the balance of food and water to support the amount
of light. The more light the plant has, the more food it needs
and the larger it can grow. We had some "mature" plants when we
moved from Chicago to CO. The difference in pbulb size was
dramatic. Many are 1/3 to 1/2 again as large. The better light
just produces better growth.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

"Susan Erickson" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 13:21:57 -0500, "Ray"

I think it is the balance of food and water to support the amount
of light. The more light the plant has, the more food it needs
and the larger it can grow. We had some "mature" plants when we
moved from Chicago to CO. The difference in pbulb size was
dramatic. Many are 1/3 to 1/2 again as large. The better light
just produces better growth.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

Thanks, I guess I'll have to step up the fertilizer. I grow in S/H and
didn't have a shadecloth on the greenhouse last year because we had so very
much rain and if not rain then clouds, but when the sun came through it was
intense.
This year I have a 30% shadecloth on the house, because I noticed Phal
leaves being smaller (what Rebecca Northen calls - growing harder)