cymbids
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
Hi,
My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I crossed it the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the pod/capsule dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty finicky plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom. Because I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire season) and still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I don't seem to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see temperature as a direct cause. .. . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html ------------------------------------------------------------------ V_coerulea wrote: Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
Hi,
My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I crossed it the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the pod/capsule dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty finicky plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom. Because I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire season) and still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I don't seem to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see temperature as a direct cause. .. . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html ------------------------------------------------------------------ V_coerulea wrote: Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are
consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40. Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around 60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is there a better time to make the move? Tamra V_coerulea wrote in message .. . Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are
consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40. Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around 60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is there a better time to make the move? Tamra V_coerulea wrote in message .. . Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
I didn't mention a correlation between fertilizer and bud blast/ capsule
abortion. I was referring to spike initiation - will the shoot be flowering or vegetative? We have had a good deal of success growing standard cyms this way in a part of the country where it's not supposed to happen. There may be other factors involved. My Cyms devonianum and eburneum bloomed well, set capsules and also aborted them. Some nice crosses from Casa de las Orquideas purchased as dugups bloomed for the first time last year and we're looking forward to better blooms from them this year as well as some that have just made it up to blooming size. I say keep doing whatever works for you for whatever reason. If you can figure out the reason, even better. Can anyone help out here? Gary "profpam" wrote in message ... Hi, My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I crossed it the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the pod/capsule dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty finicky plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom. Because I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire season) and still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I don't seem to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see temperature as a direct cause. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html ------------------------------------------------------------------ V_coerulea wrote: Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I ha vesomeotherministhatusuallyspikealittlelater. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
I didn't mention a correlation between fertilizer and bud blast/ capsule
abortion. I was referring to spike initiation - will the shoot be flowering or vegetative? We have had a good deal of success growing standard cyms this way in a part of the country where it's not supposed to happen. There may be other factors involved. My Cyms devonianum and eburneum bloomed well, set capsules and also aborted them. Some nice crosses from Casa de las Orquideas purchased as dugups bloomed for the first time last year and we're looking forward to better blooms from them this year as well as some that have just made it up to blooming size. I say keep doing whatever works for you for whatever reason. If you can figure out the reason, even better. Can anyone help out here? Gary "profpam" wrote in message ... Hi, My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I crossed it the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the pod/capsule dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty finicky plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom. Because I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire season) and still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I don't seem to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see temperature as a direct cause. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html ------------------------------------------------------------------ V_coerulea wrote: Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I ha vesomeotherministhatusuallyspikealittlelater. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
Hi,
Grow about 400 cymbidiums in N. Florida. My problems are differant than yours but have done some research about spike initiation - bud drop and general understanding regarding temperature effects. I grow my cymbidiums outside year round with temperatures sometimes dropping into the low 30's high 20's. I mist under shade cloth and that seems to mananage the cold pretty well during the brief cold snaps we have here. Bud drop is less outside even during cold snaps. Cymbidiums seem to like the cool condition and air movement. Bud drop often occous when brief periods of high temperatures occour when the spikes have not opened yet. Airflow and misting in the evening to cool off the plant does seem to help prevent bud drop during warm spells when the buds are on. "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message . .. The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40. Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around 60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is there a better time to make the move? Tamra V_coerulea wrote in message .. . Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
Hi,
Grow about 400 cymbidiums in N. Florida. My problems are differant than yours but have done some research about spike initiation - bud drop and general understanding regarding temperature effects. I grow my cymbidiums outside year round with temperatures sometimes dropping into the low 30's high 20's. I mist under shade cloth and that seems to mananage the cold pretty well during the brief cold snaps we have here. Bud drop is less outside even during cold snaps. Cymbidiums seem to like the cool condition and air movement. Bud drop often occous when brief periods of high temperatures occour when the spikes have not opened yet. Airflow and misting in the evening to cool off the plant does seem to help prevent bud drop during warm spells when the buds are on. "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message . .. The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40. Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around 60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is there a better time to make the move? Tamra V_coerulea wrote in message .. . Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect. Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway... Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart 'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later. Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage. To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It may help delay the blooming. Gary "Tamra Eastman" wrote in message .. . I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s, and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom for about another month but then they come into the house where night temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup to unobstructed western light. I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any time. I'm really just curious. Tamra |
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