I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift. I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

Hi,

My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I crossed it
the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the pod/capsule
dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty finicky
plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom. Because
I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire season) and
still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I don't seem
to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see
temperature as a direct cause.

.. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html



------------------------------------------------------------------

V_coerulea wrote:

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

Hi,

My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I crossed it
the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the pod/capsule
dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty finicky
plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom. Because
I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire season) and
still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I don't seem
to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see
temperature as a direct cause.

.. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html



------------------------------------------------------------------

V_coerulea wrote:

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing, all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer? It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids. I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend. Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say, they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and 40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are
consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40.
Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around
60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm
worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I
should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is
there a better time to make the move?

Tamra


V_coerulea wrote in message
.. .
Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are
consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40.
Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around
60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm
worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I
should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is
there a better time to make the move?

Tamra


V_coerulea wrote in message
.. .
Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

I didn't mention a correlation between fertilizer and bud blast/ capsule
abortion. I was referring to spike initiation - will the shoot be flowering
or vegetative? We have had a good deal of success growing standard cyms this
way in a part of the country where it's not supposed to happen. There may be
other factors involved. My Cyms devonianum and eburneum bloomed well, set
capsules and also aborted them. Some nice crosses from Casa de las Orquideas
purchased as dugups bloomed for the first time last year and we're looking
forward to better blooms from them this year as well as some that have just
made it up to blooming size. I say keep doing whatever works for you for
whatever reason. If you can figure out the reason, even better. Can anyone
help out here?
Gary

"profpam" wrote in message ...
Hi,

My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I
crossed it
the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the
pod/capsule
dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty
finicky
plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom.
Because
I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire
season) and
still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I
don't seem
to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see
temperature as a direct cause.

. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html



------------------------------------------------------------------

V_coerulea wrote:

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my
Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I ha vesomeotherministhatusuallyspikealittlelater.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their
parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the
shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

I didn't mention a correlation between fertilizer and bud blast/ capsule
abortion. I was referring to spike initiation - will the shoot be flowering
or vegetative? We have had a good deal of success growing standard cyms this
way in a part of the country where it's not supposed to happen. There may be
other factors involved. My Cyms devonianum and eburneum bloomed well, set
capsules and also aborted them. Some nice crosses from Casa de las Orquideas
purchased as dugups bloomed for the first time last year and we're looking
forward to better blooms from them this year as well as some that have just
made it up to blooming size. I say keep doing whatever works for you for
whatever reason. If you can figure out the reason, even better. Can anyone
help out here?
Gary

"profpam" wrote in message ...
Hi,

My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I
crossed it
the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the
pod/capsule
dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty
finicky
plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom.
Because
I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire
season) and
still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I
don't seem
to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see
temperature as a direct cause.

. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html



------------------------------------------------------------------

V_coerulea wrote:

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my
Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I ha vesomeotherministhatusuallyspikealittlelater.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their
parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the
shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

Hi,
Grow about 400 cymbidiums in N. Florida. My problems are differant
than yours
but have done some research about spike initiation - bud drop and
general understanding regarding temperature effects.
I grow my cymbidiums outside year round with temperatures sometimes
dropping into the low 30's high 20's. I mist under shade cloth and
that seems to mananage the cold pretty well during the brief cold
snaps we have here.
Bud drop is less outside even during cold snaps. Cymbidiums seem to
like the cool condition and air movement. Bud drop often occous when
brief periods of high temperatures occour when the spikes have not
opened yet. Airflow and misting in the evening to cool off the plant
does seem to help prevent bud drop during warm spells when the buds
are on.

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message . ..
The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are
consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40.
Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around
60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm
worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I
should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is
there a better time to make the move?

Tamra


V_coerulea wrote in message
.. .
Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra

Hi,
Grow about 400 cymbidiums in N. Florida. My problems are differant
than yours
but have done some research about spike initiation - bud drop and
general understanding regarding temperature effects.
I grow my cymbidiums outside year round with temperatures sometimes
dropping into the low 30's high 20's. I mist under shade cloth and
that seems to mananage the cold pretty well during the brief cold
snaps we have here.
Bud drop is less outside even during cold snaps. Cymbidiums seem to
like the cool condition and air movement. Bud drop often occous when
brief periods of high temperatures occour when the spikes have not
opened yet. Airflow and misting in the evening to cool off the plant
does seem to help prevent bud drop during warm spells when the buds
are on.

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message . ..
The cymbid is currently still in the sunroom. Our outside night temps are
consistently below freezing and nights in the sunroom are hanging around 40.
Should I bring it in to a warmer spot? Day temps in the sunroom are around
60 as long as the sun is out. In northern NH, sun is a major issue! I'm
worried about bud blast if the temps are too severely changed, although I
should mention that I have spikes but no delineated buds at this time. Is
there a better time to make the move?

Tamra


V_coerulea wrote in message
.. .
Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I have some other minis that usually spike a little later.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra