Pond edging ideas - Aestetics check
The old pond had a double ring of serpentine pavers on a shelf to hold the
liner in place. The obligatory lime capstones sat on top of the pavers to hide them and hold the liner in place. This looked very quaint, but it did cost me a few gallons for the dirt to support the pavers and this is where I had some minor slumpage lately. So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner. I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood. Doing without the pavers will allow me 200+ more gallons for the dirt and possibly 200+ more gallons for the higher water level. Since Koi are a major reason for the upgrade, more water is good. I'd like your opinions on the engineering feasibility of attaching the liner this way (stretching, slumping, shifting rebar) and the loss of the quaint factor. |
Pond edging ideas - Aestetics check
my current pond is built that way. dont cut any liner at first. fill
the pond let it sit a few days, walk in it. then nail the sucker down. worked for us. http://weloveteaching.com/mypond/2000/p2000.htm we used permalon with this pond. Ingrid On Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:40:42 CST, "Bill Stock" wrote: The old pond had a double ring of serpentine pavers on a shelf to hold the liner in place. The obligatory lime capstones sat on top of the pavers to hide them and hold the liner in place. This looked very quaint, but it did cost me a few gallons for the dirt to support the pavers and this is where I had some minor slumpage lately. So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner. I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood. Doing without the pavers will allow me 200+ more gallons for the dirt and possibly 200+ more gallons for the higher water level. Since Koi are a major reason for the upgrade, more water is good. I'd like your opinions on the engineering feasibility of attaching the liner this way (stretching, slumping, shifting rebar) and the loss of the quaint factor. |
Pond edging ideas - Aestetics check
On Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:40:42 CST, "Bill Stock"
wrote: So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner. I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood. I had a pond built of PT lawn timbers and EPDM liner that lasted 8 or 10 years. It was well constructed, but settled. I jacked it up and re-leveled it a couple times, but it continued to leak in the corners and in lesser amounts that I couldn't see until I took the timbers out and replaced them with retaining wall stones. I prefer stone and concrete in future construction. Removing The lag screwed wood frame pond wasn't as easy as building it. -- Hal Middle Georgia, Zone 8 http://tinyurl.com/2fxzcb |
Pond edging ideas - Aestetics check
wrote in message . com... my current pond is built that way. dont cut any liner at first. fill the pond let it sit a few days, walk in it. then nail the sucker down. worked for us. http://weloveteaching.com/mypond/2000/p2000.htm we used permalon with this pond. Ingrid Thanks, I was looking at your pictures recently for ideas on the waterfall (FastFalls). |
Pond edging ideas - Aestetics check
"Hal" wrote in message ... On Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:40:42 CST, "Bill Stock" wrote: So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner. I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood. I had a pond built of PT lawn timbers and EPDM liner that lasted 8 or 10 years. It was well constructed, but settled. I jacked it up and re-leveled it a couple times, but it continued to leak in the corners and in lesser amounts that I couldn't see until I took the timbers out and replaced them with retaining wall stones. I prefer stone and concrete in future construction. Removing The lag screwed wood frame pond wasn't as easy as building it. -- Hal Middle Georgia, Zone 8 http://tinyurl.com/2fxzcb Yeah, I took out my old retaining wall (only 2 high) recently and I never did get all the rebar out. I had to slice it up and take it out piece by piece. Thanks for the insight, I'm kinda leaning away from the wood frame due to the extra work. It would not be square (6 or 7 sides), so I'd have to make several lap joints to get the support I want with one row of timber. At the rate I'm progressing with my clay, it will be Decemeber before I'm done digging. |
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