Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I'm seriously contemplating purchasing a bead filter for my 8500 gal pond.
I'm looking at Aquadyne, Challenger 60 by Fluidart, and also Aquabead. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of these? Would appreciate all opinions. thanks, tony |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I use a veggie filter with lava rocks, It seems to do better then the
bead filters. At least in my pond. http://community.webtv.net/rebeljoe/POND |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
Thanks, Joe. Guess I should have been a bit more specific. I'm looking to
get away from all that work of cleaning the filter and the muck. I was in a car accident a while ago and am still on the mend with a long way to go. Need to make things easier for me. thanks for your reply "REBEL JOE" wrote in message ... I use a veggie filter with lava rocks, It seems to do better then the bead filters. At least in my pond. http://community.webtv.net/rebeljoe/POND |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I don't have experience with any of the ones you mentioned, but I have an
Ultima II hooked up in my system. I believe that all bead filters have similar requirements that cannot be ignored, so be advised in advance: in order to work at their optimum, your KH must be 200 or more. That's easily done with baking soda, which also works to ensure a completely, rock-solid pH. Also, you should have a 2 speed pump: you run your filter normally at the low speed, but when you backflush, you need the WHAM! of the high speed to knock everything out. I only have a one-speed pump; if there was any way I could justify the purchase of a 2 speed at this point in time, I would. In order to clean my filter properly, I have to go "backflush/rinse" at least 3 or 4 times. Every time the water looks like its finally running clear in backflush, I find that it's a far cry from clear on the second (or third) round. The 2-speed pump would take care of that. On the flip side though, by the time I finally get it clean, it's the same amount of water I'd have to remove for my 10-15% weekly water change, anyway! Good luck with your choice. Lee "Tony & Diane VonNeida" wrote in message . .. I'm seriously contemplating purchasing a bead filter for my 8500 gal pond. I'm looking at Aquadyne, Challenger 60 by Fluidart, and also Aquabead. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of these? Would appreciate all opinions. thanks, tony |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
Tony,
I have a BBF-2 on my 4000 gallon pond. The filter worked fine the first 2 years, but as the pond pigs grew, there was more and more solids generated. The filter removed them, but it became harder to do a good backwash. I ended up putting in a vortex separator ahead of the pump to collect many of the solids, so that they would not go to the bead filter. I am going to step up this year, I hope, to a six cubic foot bead filter, since my fish load now weighs in at close to 200 pounds of fish. I recommend going up in size to at least double what the manufacturer states is the right size for a pond of X gallons. Their recommendations might work on a pond with few fish. Also get one with the blower for backwash cycle. It really improves the backwash, with a big reduction in the amount of water required, or the HP of the pump. -- RichToyBox http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html "Tony & Diane VonNeida" wrote in message . .. I'm seriously contemplating purchasing a bead filter for my 8500 gal pond. I'm looking at Aquadyne, Challenger 60 by Fluidart, and also Aquabead. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of these? Would appreciate all opinions. thanks, tony |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I have an Aquabead filter. So far I am very happy with it. Works
best if you have the waste line hooked up to the sewer or some other place where you can dump 100 gallons of water at a flow rate 3-5 times greater than a full-on garden hose. The air agitator is a must on any brand that you get. As with any filter I agree that you should always buy a filter with a much higher rating than you need. I can clean my filter in only 5 minutes with no fuss or mess. Takes another 15 minutes to add the 100 gallons used in the cleaning process back into the pond and to clean the leaf traps. Cheers Dave |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I have been using the Aquadyne BF, with blower (for backwash) for 2 seasons.
Pump is only a 1/2 hp submersible in my skimmer, and it works great. Without a blower you need a more expensive 2 speed pump. The BF works super, and supports a high fish load. No issues with maintenance. It's very quick and easy. I eliminated my other filters. Now I have the skimmer feeding the BF going to a falls. My bottom drain goes via a dragon pump to a stream (which functions essentially as trickle filter, based on it's design), that dumps into a bog garden, then back into the Koi pond. The only thing I have against BFs is their outrageous pricing. They are not that much more complex than simple sand filters for pools (yes there is some re-engineering), but costs are disproportionately high. That being said, I would never go back to the previous vortex/mechanical/biologic setup I had in the past. Both systems get the job done, WHEN PROPERLY SETUP, but the BF involves much less maintenance. Happy ponding, Greg "Dave" wrote in message om... I have an Aquabead filter. So far I am very happy with it. Works best if you have the waste line hooked up to the sewer or some other place where you can dump 100 gallons of water at a flow rate 3-5 times greater than a full-on garden hose. The air agitator is a must on any brand that you get. As with any filter I agree that you should always buy a filter with a much higher rating than you need. I can clean my filter in only 5 minutes with no fuss or mess. Takes another 15 minutes to add the 100 gallons used in the cleaning process back into the pond and to clean the leaf traps. Cheers Dave |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I have heard that bead filters are not as wonderful as advertised. They were
originally made for swimming pools for use with chemicals (and sand, not beads) with no real crud. when used with ponds with fish they get gunked up and eventually accumulate H2S inside (may take up to 3 years to happen). When backwashed the outlet is on the bottom, but the gas in on the top and isnt removed unless taken the whole thing apart. so the H2S starts getting dumped into the water and the first sign is the fish are piping, lethargic and at heading into the return water. The beads eventually clump to the point where they are just one big mass. it isnt a mechanical filter at all, AND the biobugs need a lot of oxygen to function. since it is closed, only the oxygen in the water is available. that is unlike a veggie filter or any filter open to the air. Jo Ann can explain what the problem is better 1-251-649-4790 INgrid "Tony & Diane VonNeida" wrote: I'm seriously contemplating purchasing a bead filter for my 8500 gal pond. I'm looking at Aquadyne, Challenger 60 by Fluidart, and also Aquabead. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of these? Would appreciate all opinions. thanks, tony |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
Get one of the little or big sisters then. these filters have outlets for cleaning.
just turn the knob and the muck is drained from the filter. there are brushes in the prefilter and I think they are just removed and thumped against something to remove clinging debris. Jo Ann's husband has bad knees and cannot fool around cleaning. He is the one found these and loves em since he has to take care of 7 or 8 ponds. 1-251-649-4790 Ingrid "Tony & Diane VonNeida" wrote: Thanks, Joe. Guess I should have been a bit more specific. I'm looking to get away from all that work of cleaning the filter and the muck. |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
Ingrid, it sure would be nice if you would sure of your facts, before
providing such misinformation. It really does impact the credibility of this NG. Read my comments below. wrote in message ... I have heard that bead filters are not as wonderful as advertised. They were originally made for swimming pools for use with chemicals (and sand, not beads) with no real crud. You have "heard"? In a scientific forum, perhaps? It would appear you may be mixing BF up with similarly appearing sand filters, which function differently. BF designed for water garden/Koi ponds, are of a different water flow design from the sand/bead filters offered for swimming pools. when used with ponds with fish they get gunked up and eventually accumulate H2S inside (may take up to 3 years to happen). Not true. When backwashed, current designed BF flush to the top and out, not from the bottom. The bottom drain is there for large sediment only. Backwashing, esp with blowers breaks up the mass, which by the way offers a huge surface area compared to most other biofilter systems, which is why they support larger mass of fish/unit volume of water. But you pay for that in $$. When backwashed the outlet is on the bottom, but the gas in on the top and isnt removed unless taken the whole thing apart. so the H2S starts getting dumped into the water and the first sign is the fish are piping, lethargic and at heading into the return water. The beads eventually clump to the point where they are just one big mass. it isnt a mechanical filter at all, AND the biobugs need a lot of oxygen to function. since it is closed, only the oxygen in the water is available. Again, not true, unless of course you are using a sand filter you modified, or perhaps an older design of BF, where the flow may allow that to happen. Modern, well designed BFs don't have that issue. that is unlike a veggie filter or any filter open to the air. Jo Ann can explain what the problem is better 1-251-649-4790 INgrid Strange that many of the breeders/maintainersof large Koi ponds, where there are large fish mass to water ratios, manintain them strictly with BF. Strange that many of the large Koi dealers use BF (and UV) as only agents to maintain their heavily stocked Koi holding tanks/vats. Folks, you can go to the AKCA website (www.akca.org), or to Dr. Eric Johnson's (www.koivet.com I believe) website, to get accurate information on the utility of these filters. Hope that helps address your question Tony.. Happy ponding, and let us know how you make out with your BF, Greg "Tony & Diane VonNeida" wrote: I'm seriously contemplating purchasing a bead filter for my 8500 gal pond. I'm looking at Aquadyne, Challenger 60 by Fluidart, and also Aquabead. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of these? Would appreciate all opinions. thanks, tony |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
Good response. I would like to hear from people that went from a
mechanical filter to a bead filter. I have not yet heard anything bad from any bead filter except the bubble bead filter. Does anyone out there have a bead filter? If so, how long have to had it? Have you ever had any problems with it? What is the brand of your filter? Thx! Oingofan On Sun, 02 Mar 2003 17:49:38 GMT, "Gregory Young" wrote: Ingrid, it sure would be nice if you would sure of your facts, before providing such misinformation. It really does impact the credibility of this NG. Read my comments below. wrote in message ... I have heard that bead filters are not as wonderful as advertised. They were originally made for swimming pools for use with chemicals (and sand, not beads) with no real crud. You have "heard"? In a scientific forum, perhaps? It would appear you may be mixing BF up with similarly appearing sand filters, which function differently. BF designed for water garden/Koi ponds, are of a different water flow design from the sand/bead filters offered for swimming pools. when used with ponds with fish they get gunked up and eventually accumulate H2S inside (may take up to 3 years to happen). Not true. When backwashed, current designed BF flush to the top and out, not from the bottom. The bottom drain is there for large sediment only. Backwashing, esp with blowers breaks up the mass, which by the way offers a huge surface area compared to most other biofilter systems, which is why they support larger mass of fish/unit volume of water. But you pay for that in $$. When backwashed the outlet is on the bottom, but the gas in on the top and isnt removed unless taken the whole thing apart. so the H2S starts getting dumped into the water and the first sign is the fish are piping, lethargic and at heading into the return water. The beads eventually clump to the point where they are just one big mass. it isnt a mechanical filter at all, AND the biobugs need a lot of oxygen to function. since it is closed, only the oxygen in the water is available. Again, not true, unless of course you are using a sand filter you modified, or perhaps an older design of BF, where the flow may allow that to happen. Modern, well designed BFs don't have that issue. that is unlike a veggie filter or any filter open to the air. Jo Ann can explain what the problem is better 1-251-649-4790 INgrid Strange that many of the breeders/maintainersof large Koi ponds, where there are large fish mass to water ratios, manintain them strictly with BF. Strange that many of the large Koi dealers use BF (and UV) as only agents to maintain their heavily stocked Koi holding tanks/vats. Folks, you can go to the AKCA website (www.akca.org), or to Dr. Eric Johnson's (www.koivet.com I believe) website, to get accurate information on the utility of these filters. Hope that helps address your question Tony.. Happy ponding, and let us know how you make out with your BF, Greg "Tony & Diane VonNeida" wrote: I'm seriously contemplating purchasing a bead filter for my 8500 gal pond. I'm looking at Aquadyne, Challenger 60 by Fluidart, and also Aquabead. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of these? Would appreciate all opinions. thanks, tony |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
I am really surprised that you are going into personal attack mode.
http://users.megapathdsl.net/~solo/w...l_attacks.html Ingrid, ..... A personal attack or assault is not a discussion of facts. It begins with the attacker clearly identifying the person being attacked either by name or by the use of "you" repeatedly it sure would be nice if you would sure of your facts, before providing such misinformation. .... The attack is full of emotional words, feelings, beliefs and opinions, but few facts. this is a mild attack It really does impact the credibility of this NG. ..... The attacker will often refer to "unidentified others" who share their beliefs and "know what they know". The attack is most often public to be effective. So you are assuming the role of protector of the newsgroup ... And here I am being nice to you Greg. I erase your name from an erroneous statement like "anaerobic bacteria break down ammonia to nitrogen which is a more usable form for plants". I dont assume anything except it was an oversight, a mistake. The ONLY fact in what I wrote was bead filters were originally made for swimming pools Not fact. What I heard from Jo Ann. The local pond people come to her when their fish or ponds are in trouble. The locals brought their bead filters in and this is what SHE found inside of them. And the symptoms of the fish that were sick and/or dying in the ponds showing H2S poisoning were using some kind of bead filter. Not to mention that is what it smelled like when they opened them up. You are free to call Jo Ann and dispute what she has seen first hand. No need to attack me cause I am repeating what I heard from a highly reputable source. I toured both Bretts koi farm and Prices koi farm. I saw no bead filters. OTOH, as I jokingly said .. women will go with cheap, low maintenance "organic" veggie filter while men will use expensive, high maintenance technology to achieve the same purpose. So I am not surprised that some men will be recommending what they use. Ingrid |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
we both know that bacteria do convert nitrates to nitrogen and release nitrogen which
is a gas. other bacteria (like in nodules of nitrogen fixers) fix nitrogen gas to ammonia for use of the plant. the way it was stated would mislead people which is why I corrected it. you are right, I didnt have the quoted section "in hand" but what I summarized it said is substantially correct. I would hope anyone would correct something I misstated. I identified Jo Ann as the person who said this several times. She was reporting that more than just a couple people were bringing her their defunct bead filters and dying or dead fish. that is part of what she does for a living, she is a fish diagnostician. wrong. drip filters are not "sealed" and dont develop anaerobic problems. I am going to visit Jo Ann, will take pictures of how much work it is to clean one of those Big Sisters they use on their ponds. And I dont HAVE to bend over to clean my veggie filter ... it sits on top of my pond. all I have to do is reach in with my wet dry vac and remove the crud as I drain it ONCE A YEAR in fall as I remove the plants cause I move em inside. I dont have to do that, but I want the plants inside, most of them are tender. now why in the world would I recommend anything that needs back flushing more than once a year when they can vacuum clean it just once a year? and NO MEDIA is needed, just a bunch of plants. what farms? are they online? got email addresses? heavily loaded koi ponds are ticking time bombs. I sure dont recommend anyone stocking their ponds so heavily that they actually need some high tech filtering to keep wastes manageable. the problem with high tech is it requires vigilance and maintenance, and shit happens and people simply cannot cope or they go on vacation and whoever takes over cant handle the technology and Murphy's law takes over. all summer long my maintenance is simple. feed the fish, make sure the pump is pumping, top up the water. sit out next to the pond with coffee in the morning and watch em. and I am going to continue to recommend avoiding bead filters and recommend easier low tech methods!!!! Ingrid "Gregory Young" wrote: "to allow anaerobic conditions to occur in the deeper soil layers, which allows for the reduction of nitrates back to nitrogen, which is more efficiently utilized by all the plants" |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
The original bubble bead filter was gravity cleaned and if left uncleaned
would glue the beads together in the top, making it very difficult to get a good cleaning, and this may have led to the problems that Jo Ann found. There is a simple method of plumbing the bubble bead filters that makes it a pressurized water cleaned system, and I have been using this system on my bubble bead filter for four years and feel that I am getting good service from it. The newer style filters are all designed using the swimming pool sand filter tank. They have pressurized backwash, sludge valves in the bottom, and a rinse cycle that expels anything that was light and loosened during the cleaning cycle and sends it to waste. The H2S would either be expelled through the bottom during backwash or through the top during rinse. Most of the new filters have a blower attached that uses air to bubble the water to thoroughly clean the beads using much less water. I am getting ready to get one of these newer filters for my large pond and move the old bubble bead to the smaller pond. Everyone overstocks their ponds. They don't set out to. The fish grow. They use rules like one fish per hundred gallons. I have one fish per 200 gallons in my large pond. Most of these fish are between 6 and 10 pounds. That makes my filter have to filter the waste of about 150 pounds of fish. My small pond is on a gravel bed veggie filter. It has about 3000 pounds of gravel that has to be cleaned about twice a year. I am not as young as I once was. -- RichToyBox http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html wrote in message ... I identified Jo Ann as the person who said this several times. She was reporting that more than just a couple people were bringing her their defunct bead filters and dying or dead fish. that is part of what she does for a living, she is a fish diagnostician. |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
My Outlook quit twice, loosing my reply twice, so I'll make this brief, as
dinner is cooking.... 1) Excellent reply Rich! Folks: 2) Older BF were hour glass, and have different mechanics than newer BF that look like pool filters externally. We are talking the newer designs, but older ones will work fine with proper attention to maintenance as well.. New BF, despite appearances are internally different from the pool sand filters. If you would like to learn how they differ (in flow, lack of input restriction, etc) pickup last year's Koi USA (not sure of issues number.. maybe someone can help me out). It has a great article on conversion of pool filter to BF filter. After reading it I sold my old pool filter and bought a BF. I didn't want to do all the conversions necessary. 3) You can't add beads to standard pool filter and make it a BF, it doesn't work that way.. 4) ANY filter, can develop anaerobic conditions in it, (yes, even nonpressurized, despite what you may have heard). It depends on channeling, which occurs in all filters, if not maintained. For a great reference go to the following website: akca.org , then go to KHA section (at bottom of page), then read/download the section on filters. You'll get your questions addressed there! shoot called for dinner... will end repost now. Good Koi dealer to start with is Koi by Kerin.. Uses strictly BF.. saw that personally during our wetlab. Also major importers/dealers, esp. on West Coast use same.. Ko iUSA will have a number of examples.. Later, Greg "RichToyBox" wrote in message news:wkv9a.332828$tq4.6355@sccrnsc01... The original bubble bead filter was gravity cleaned and if left uncleaned would glue the beads together in the top, making it very difficult to get a good cleaning, and this may have led to the problems that Jo Ann found. There is a simple method of plumbing the bubble bead filters that makes it a pressurized water cleaned system, and I have been using this system on my bubble bead filter for four years and feel that I am getting good service from it. The newer style filters are all designed using the swimming pool sand filter tank. They have pressurized backwash, sludge valves in the bottom, and a rinse cycle that expels anything that was light and loosened during the cleaning cycle and sends it to waste. The H2S would either be expelled through the bottom during backwash or through the top during rinse. Most of the new filters have a blower attached that uses air to bubble the water to thoroughly clean the beads using much less water. I am getting ready to get one of these newer filters for my large pond and move the old bubble bead to the smaller pond. Everyone overstocks their ponds. They don't set out to. The fish grow. They use rules like one fish per hundred gallons. I have one fish per 200 gallons in my large pond. Most of these fish are between 6 and 10 pounds. That makes my filter have to filter the waste of about 150 pounds of fish. My small pond is on a gravel bed veggie filter. It has about 3000 pounds of gravel that has to be cleaned about twice a year. I am not as young as I once was. -- RichToyBox http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html wrote in message ... I identified Jo Ann as the person who said this several times. She was reporting that more than just a couple people were bringing her their defunct bead filters and dying or dead fish. that is part of what she does for a living, she is a fish diagnostician. |
Opinions on bead filters appreciated
not a veggie filter with no gravel ... mine cannot go anaerobic, the roots hang down
in the water. Ingrid 4) ANY filter, can develop anaerobic conditions in it, (yes, even nonpressurized, despite what you may have heard). It depends on channeling, which occurs in all filters, if not maintained. For a great reference go to the following website: |
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