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10-05-2003, 09:44 AM
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new-way-Gardening via concrete-blocks Garden research project this year for the best tomato
"Archimedes Plutonium" wrote in message ... Thu, 01 May 2003 01:37:34 -0500 Archimedes Plutonium wrote: I keep running research experiments on horticulture. One thing I found out about tomatoes is that your tomato garden should be close to the south wall of your house where no trees are nearby. And that your south wall of the house should be white as possible. I have found that the tomatoes grown in such an enviroment grow twice as fast and large as tomatoes not. The reflection of light from the south wall of a house or building boosts the sunlight and also the water from house roof runoff is added moisture. Explosive growth for tomatoes and so explosive that it covers the entire ground. This year I am experimenting on control of the tomatoes. I have seen wire type baskets that hold up tomatoes. I have seen poles and stakes for tomatoes. But that is time consuming. Especially if you plan on having more than 10 tomato plants. So what I am researching this summer is a simple method. Those concrete block with their big holes. Concrete block are not blown by the wind. And ants do not make a nest home. So I plan to plant the tomato seedling in the middle of a block hole and the block should protect the seedling until it grows high. And then the block serves as a guidance system in that I know where the root stalk is for weeding and I am not stepping onto the root stalk. I am going to try this concrete block method on the troublesome watermelon and cucumber. They seem to make mowing a nuisance. This is probably a new method of gardening for it places the desired plant into a sort of pot, but a pot that is without a bottom. It is a concrete block used in building houses. The conventional 8 by 8 by 16 with its two holes. They do not blow away in wind. They protect the plant inside one of the holes. They give extra sunshine from the reflection and extra warmth. They are good in watering in that you can fill the hole with water. Best of all, the garden is easier to make than rototilling a plot and having it bare dirt. All you do is place the block where wanted and then plant the seeds or the tiny plant and then put the concreteblock over it in one of its holes. Then when mowing you mow around the concrete block and when weeding you clip the grasses and weeds with a headshears and hand weed inside the block holes. This method was started by me some 3 years ago when I wanted to protect my young trees whenever I mowed and so I placed a block as a marker on the north side of each tree (not inside a hole). So I used block as a mowing marker. But then I began to place the block over my young asparagus so I knew where they were and easier to weed them because the asparagus was in one of the holes of each block. And now, 3 years later in year 2003, my entire garden for 2003 with tomatoes and watermelon (not ambitious this year since I have a construction project underway), all of my garden is inside concrete block holes so that I can easily mow and also weed the garden. Strawberries are a constant concern over weeds. And strawberries are too small for the holes of concreteblock. But I do have concrete block surrounding my strawberry patch in order to walk in the strawberries. I have found the best method of weeding strawberries is a long serrated knife. It never needs sharpening and I cut enter swatchs of grasses and weeds and dandelions from their roots. Watermelons tend to roam over the garden and spill over into the lawn making it tough to mow the grass. I plan to handle this by providing the watermelon with more and more block as it spreads over the lawn. And after the summer, I will use the block in building or use it again next year for the garden. Archimedes Plutonium, whole entire Universe is just one big atom where dots of the electron-dot-cloud are galaxies Archie, You found a few pearls here. Raising tomatoes ageist a south facing wall will work great in areas the mid day heat stays below 95 if. You can also get a weeks head start by covering the ground with ashes. The black soil absorbs more heat. To push it further you can put a clear plastic tent between the wall and the ground and start 3 or 4 weeks earlier wiht out heat and 2 months eerier with heat. Just be careful you don't rot the wall with the increased humidity. For a garden I like a south facing slope of 3 or 5 degrees to keep it from becoming water logged when it rains. Scatter manure, lime, gypsum on this soil some 15 -15 and sore 18-46-0 and work it in the ground some and if I have it handy add sand and pet moss to give the clay more porosity and work that in. smooth it out and lay leaky hoses back and forth between the rows and take lack land scope cloth and nail down to th ground to kill all the weeds. The cut a hole with a knife in the cloth and plant the plant add water as need, kill bugs and need and harvest as needed. If you are pressed for time put the mineral fertile, lime and manure down spread them as even as you can and lay the water system and nail the cloth. No tilling really needed. weeds are a minor problem that have to pulled or killed with roundup on a pint brush just touching them. For strawberries build a bed up to a easy working height an put good soil in it fill thud base sixth gravel for drainage and then good course sand and 4 or 4 inches oft dirt designed for berries.Put in the water the plastic and stikckthe plants at half the spacing you diseur. the next year you take some of the best runners and fill in the blends. few weeds and foe problems. Start the next bed and stock them as soon as you causing differ phonates from a different nursery raised 2 years in you isolation plot and start out the new bed. keep making on or two more every year until the first ones start to decline. Get a specialist and find out what you have and take the proper action. cover it with plastic inject it with mistral bromide don't I wish. Wrap it in plastic wrap and get it on trailer and take it to an incinerator. And ash the contents in an approved burner Now bake the trailer and raised bed to 350 digress for as long as it takes to get ot spooled trough with heat or how ever Betty Crocker says to preheat a 10 foot by 4 foot roasting pan wiht 6 inch walls. Haul it to the far end of the farm erect a pole.Afar APIS declare sit safe make 3 paper copies and 3 copper copies on the post and one buried were the thing set. If is still usable stem clean it flame it with weed burner and put it back in surface winch is al that was needed in the first place but the government must have work to do. Another strategy is to depreciate them down and give them to boy scouts and leas them back at a reasonable price and destroy them when the become disease. you got 30 % or you tastes on the deprecation schedule. You recovered all that tax liability when you gave it to th scouts but you gave it as a tax deductible gift you got 30% of the retail value off your taxes again and if you paced the right year the income be offset by a loss by withhold in sales until next year when you are going to giveaway the land to offset the profit our didn't realize last year by the nest roll offer the building is shot and less sculpts buy it from the scouts and inures it for replace,met value and have a tragic accident wrecking the fuel trail where it wets down the barmy mad a spark buns the barn. Properly done the farmer had a barn that cost him very little over the year the boy scouts made a good deal and the farmer had a new barn and at no cost the scouts all had a fire fighting merit badge. Gordon |
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