A good question if your lawn gets a lot of shade. I have the same problem. Indeed, you have to let them dry out some before you can sweep 'em successfully. Tricky in high-dew days of autumn.

The RHS "Encyclopedia Of Gardnening" says

* The casts NEED to be removed since they provide a site for airborne weed-seeds to germinate in.
* "Disperse by brushing. If numerous, apply carbaryl when the soil is warm & damp"

You rest your case.

Good advise Blossom but you cant buy Carbaryl now, is there a similar product you can buy ?

motorhomes4sale wrote:
Blossom Wrote:
A good question if your lawn gets a lot of shade. I have the same
problem. Indeed, you have to let them dry out some before you can
sweep 'em successfully. Tricky in high-dew days of autumn.

The RHS "Encyclopedia Of Gardnening" says

* The casts NEED to be removed since they provide a site for airborne
weed-seeds to germinate in.
* "Disperse by brushing. If numerous, apply carbaryl when the soil is
warm & damp"

You rest your case.


Good advise Blossom but you cant buy Carbaryl now, is there a similar
product you can buy ?

As I said in a previous reply..... the traditional fertilizer/weed treatment
Lawn Sand acts to acidify the to layer of soil and thus discourages worm
action. In practice this only affects the very top layers of the soil and
worm action in the bulk is not affected. So despite all the hectoring pro
worm posts, adopting the old fashioned approach will give you a worm-cast
free lawn but will not kill the worms.

pk