Camelias
 

Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for more
than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has finished
flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot?

Thanks very much
Rachael

Camelias
 

If it's very small after 11 years I wonder if it is poorly? I would move it
in the autumn to be on the safe side and give it plenty of water. Do you
have acid soil? Just wondered if you have alkaline soil and that is why it
has not grown

--
praise the lord and pass the ammunition

Rachael Reynolds wrote:
: Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for
: more than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has
: finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot?
:
: Thanks very much
: Rachael

Camelias
 

In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two
plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is
full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden
is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the
same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried
blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid
as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas?
"Rachael Reynolds" wrote in message
...
Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for more
than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has finished
flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot?

Thanks very much
Rachael

Camelias
 

In article , Peter
Donovan writes
In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two
plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is
full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden
is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the
same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried
blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid
as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas?

How old is your house? Did the builders bury the remains of a bag of
cement? My mother said that had happened to them
--
Kay Easton

Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/edward/index.htm

Camelias
 

The north and south of your house, is there sun on one and not the other as
the plant must have summer sun to set the flowers for next year. Although
the yellow leaves indicates a lime soil, strange

Robert The Beachcomber
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/robert_brimacombe

Peter Donovan wrote:
: In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have
: two plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear
: garden plant is full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the
: one at the front garden is looking very poorly with yellowish
: leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the same both back and front I have
: given the poor plant a good dose of dried blood fertiliser to see if
: that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid as my Rhosedendrun
: grow well.Any ideas? "Rachael Reynolds"
: wrote in message
: ...
:: Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for
:: more than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has
:: finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot?
::
:: Thanks very much
:: Rachael

Camelias
 

In article ,
Peter Donovan wrote:
In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two
plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is
full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden
is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the
same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried
blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid
as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas?

Check the drainage. Camellias hate waterlogging (and drying out!)
If it is not that, there may be some builder's rubble underneath,
so try some of the treatments to make alkaline soil temporarily acid.
And, of course, you could try some Epsom salts.

If you do those reasonably well separated, you will see which works.
If none, the plant may have got a viral infection, though I haven't
heard of them being particularly susceptible. But I am no camellia
expert, so I may well have got the causes in the wrong order of
likelihood!


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Camelias
 

On Sat, 5 Apr 2003 19:52:52 +0100, "Peter Donovan"
wrote:

In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two
plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is
full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden
is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the
same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried
blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid
as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas?

Could be several reasons. You say the soil is the same front and back,
but if your house is fairly new, the front garden might have been
spoilt by builder's activities (cement, rubble, compaction etc.). The
camellia might be in a pocket of alkaline soil, or in poor rubbly soil
that dries out very quickly in summer, or it may be poorly draining
and get waterlogged in winter. It may be in full sun, while the one in
the back gets some shade.

If it were mine I would mulch it with a 3 inch deep layer of moist
peat each spring, and feed it once per month with sulphate of ammonia
(1 heaped dessert spoon in 2 galls water) from now until July. Then I
would then give it a similar dose of sulphate of potash in August.
Also a couple of doses of chelated/sequestered iron and trace elements
such as Sequestrine in early summer. Come to think of it, I believe
Miracid combines fertiliser with chelated iron, so you could use that
in place of the sulphate of ammonia. Make it to the strength they tell
you on the packet. But don't use either beyond July, and then do give
it a watering with sulphate of potash.

If the summer's hot and dry, water it well, twice a week, in the
evenings. Camellias set their flower buds in late summer/early autumn,
for the following year. If they get dry at that time, the buds abort
and you get little or no flowers next year. Watering with sulphate of
potash encourages bud formation. If you continue with nitrogen
(sulphate of ammonia or Miracid) too late in the season, it encourages
late soft growth which doesn't have time to ripen and set flowers and
may also get damaged by frosts.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net

Camelias
 

On Sat, 5 Apr 2003 01:28:12 +0000 (UTC), "Rachael Reynolds"
wrote:

Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for more
than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has finished
flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot?

Thanks very much
Rachael

Why do you want to move it? Is it because you think it will do better
somewhere else, or is there another reason? Camellias can be grown in
tubs (pots are a bit small; I wouldn't put one into anything less than
24 inches in diameter if it's to be permanent), but unless you take
really good care of them (especially plentiful watering in summer),
they don't usually thrive. Have you ever fed or mulched it? If not,
see my reply to Peter Donovan.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net