I've put together a 'mulberry trees' web site:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --

The site identifies the location of
UK mulberry trees - using Google Maps where
possible - in order to better help people
appreciate the virtues of mulberry fruit.

Some community effort is required to help
realize this plan - please help share your
mulberry tree knowledge.

Many of the trees currently listed are from
Bristol - since that's where I live - but
submissions from anywhere in the UK would
be very welcome.

There's also a section on mulberry cultivation -
for those interested in helping this tree to
reproduce.

Enjoy,
--
__________
|im |yler http://timtyler.org/ Remove lock to reply.

Tim Tyler writes
I've put together a 'mulberry trees' web site:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --

The site identifies the location of
UK mulberry trees - using Google Maps where
possible - in order to better help people
appreciate the virtues of mulberry fruit.

Some community effort is required to help
realize this plan - please help share your
mulberry tree knowledge.

Many of the trees currently listed are from
Bristol - since that's where I live - but
submissions from anywhere in the UK would
be very welcome.

There's also a section on mulberry cultivation -
for those interested in helping this tree to
reproduce.

Interesting site. I think you're a bit misleading on dormancy for those
of us in N England - mine is just breaking leaf mid way through May. It
wouldn't do for me to start panicking at the beginning of May!

--
Kay

In article , K
writes
Interesting site. I think you're a bit misleading on dormancy for those
of us in N England - mine is just breaking leaf mid way through May. It
wouldn't do for me to start panicking at the beginning of May!



Afraid I'd be no good, I chopped mine down to stump size a few years
back as it kept breaking branches in a wind and had such tiny fruit it
wasn't worth bothering. It also grows roots across the lawn and under
the greenhouse, very close to the surface and it now produces masses of
6 - 7 foot lengths of growth throughout the summer which I take off in
the winter. Not a tree I'd ever plant again. The fruit dropped and
stained everywhere and the butterflies used t get drunk on the mix of
the fruit and the water on the lid of the rain barrel!
--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

Janet Tweedy wrote:

Afraid I'd be no good, I chopped mine down to stump size a few years
back as it kept breaking branches in a wind and had such tiny fruit it
wasn't worth bothering. It also grows roots across the lawn and under
the greenhouse, very close to the surface and it now produces masses of
6 - 7 foot lengths of growth throughout the summer which I take off in
the winter. Not a tree I'd ever plant again.

Someone on:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=43364

....recommends drilling holes into the stump - to allow
herbicides to penetrate.

More regular pruning might also help. Getting leaves out
is likely to help the plant to survive. Best would be
to keep it at the bud stage.
--
__________
|im |yler http://timtyler.org/ Remove lock to reply.

Tim Tyler wrote:
Someone on:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=43364

...recommends drilling holes into the stump - to allow
herbicides to penetrate.

They also state:

``A mulberry seed has a coating on it that will not
allow the seed to germinate. This coating is removed
only by passage through a bird's gullet. And consequently,
you find mulberries growing where birds tend to sit,
under eaves of house, fence lines, under other trees
and shrubs, and under power lines.''

I germinate black mulberries without such processing.

However:

Does Ingestion by Birds Affect Seed Germination?
A. Barnea, Y. Yom-Tov, J. Friedman

....and...

The impact of frugivorous birds on seed dispersal and germination of
multi-seeded berries: Mullberry (morus nigra) and Nightshade (Solanum
luteum). The 25th meeting of the Zoological Society in Israel. 1988.
Barnea, A., Yom-Tov, Y. and Friedman, J.

....seem to concur: a bird's gut helps.
--
__________
|im |yler http://timtyler.org/ Remove lock to reply.

In article , Tim Tyler
writes

Someone on:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=43364

...recommends drilling holes into the stump - to allow
herbicides to penetrate.

More regular pruning might also help. Getting leaves out
is likely to help the plant to survive. Best would be
to keep it at the bud stage.


Er well you misunderstand me, I don't mind the stump or the growth now
as my brother says , in winter it looks like an elephant has fallen from
the sky upside down with four five foot trunks and one main stem that
looks like a seat. I allow the four stems to grow every year as it makes
a unique seat this also seems to keep the growth of the roots under my
lawn from getting nay bigger.
Afraid 'him-indoors' likes it now!
--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

Janet Tweedy writes
In article , K
writes
Interesting site. I think you're a bit misleading on dormancy for
those of us in N England - mine is just breaking leaf mid way through
May. It wouldn't do for me to start panicking at the beginning of May!



Afraid I'd be no good, I chopped mine down to stump size a few years
back as it kept breaking branches in a wind and had such tiny fruit it
wasn't worth bothering. It also grows roots across the lawn and under
the greenhouse, very close to the surface and it now produces masses of
6 - 7 foot lengths of growth throughout the summer which I take off in
the winter. Not a tree I'd ever plant again. The fruit dropped and
stained everywhere and the butterflies used t get drunk on the mix of
the fruit and the water on the lid of the rain barrel!

I still think yours wasn't a black mulberry ;-)
Fruit too small, growth too fast.
--
Kay

In article , K
writes

I still think yours wasn't a black mulberry ;-)
Fruit too small, growth too fast.


Well it was seed of morus nigra from the RHS and the white mulberry is
different altogether!
I assume it's like an apple tree grown from a pip. It doesn't have the
characteristics of its parents necessarily.
--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

On Sat, 19 May 2007 Tim Tyler wrote:
I've put together a 'mulberry trees' web site:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --

Very good. I like it. However you make propagation sound terribly easy.
I've tried propagating from my black mulberry for many years, cuttings
and seed, but have consistently had a 100% failure rate.

David

--
David Rance http://www.mesnil.demon.co.uk
Fido Address: 2:252/110 writing from Caversham, Reading, UK

David Rance wrote:
On Sat, 19 May 2007 Tim Tyler wrote:

I've put together a 'mulberry trees' web site:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --

Very good. I like it. However you make propagation sound terribly easy.
I've tried propagating from my black mulberry for many years, cuttings
and seed, but have consistently had a 100% failure rate.

I haven't experienced any /serious/ problems with
propagation via seeds from fresh fruit.

I clean the seeds, bury them seeds under about 1mm of
purchased compost in the illustrated containers,
put them in a heated incubator and keep them moist.

Some seeds germinate later indoors without heat - if
left long enough.

I expect if I used cold stratification - and was more
religious about cleaning the seeds, soaking them and
using sterile compost - it would work even better.

I'm not sure what to suggest. Perhaps try different seed?
--
__________
|im |yler http://timtyler.org/ Remove lock to reply.

Tim Tyler writes
David Rance wrote:
On Sat, 19 May 2007 Tim Tyler wrote:

I've put together a 'mulberry trees' web site:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --
Very good. I like it. However you make propagation sound terribly
easy. I've tried propagating from my black mulberry for many years,
cuttings and seed, but have consistently had a 100% failure rate.

I haven't experienced any /serious/ problems with
propagation via seeds from fresh fruit.

I clean the seeds, bury them seeds under about 1mm of
purchased compost in the illustrated containers,
put them in a heated incubator and keep them moist.

Some seeds germinate later indoors without heat - if
left long enough.

I expect if I used cold stratification - and was more
religious about cleaning the seeds, soaking them and
using sterile compost - it would work even better.

I'm not sure what to suggest. Perhaps try different seed?

Some of your links were suggesting that some mulberries have male and
female flowers on separate plants (in US many people grow male plants to
avoid the fruit making a mess), so could a female plant produce
non-viable seed?
--
Kay

K wrote:
Tim Tyler writes
David Rance wrote:
On Sat, 19 May 2007 Tim Tyler wrote:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --
Very good. I like it. However you make propagation sound terribly
easy. I've tried propagating from my black mulberry for many years,
cuttings and seed, but have consistently had a 100% failure rate.

[snip advice]

I'm not sure what to suggest. Perhaps try different seed?

Some of your links were suggesting that some mulberries have male and
female flowers on separate plants (in US many people grow male plants to
avoid the fruit making a mess), so could a female plant produce
non-viable seed?

Black mulberries are monoecious - so this seems
unlikely to be an issue.

Incidentally it seems possible that pinching out
the young male catkins from Morus Nigra specimins
could result in more resources being available
for the fruit. I wonder if this hypothesis is
reasonable, and whether it has been tested.
--
__________
|im |yler http://timtyler.org/ Remove lock to reply.

What a wonderful idea to have a mulberry site. I have just added six more trees, including one in Lincs & 3 in East Yorkshire. Have just remembered that there is another in Patrington Vicarage.
But my favourite is the narled specimen in the garden of William Wilberforce's birthplace.
http://topveg.com/2007/02/22/william...mulberry-tree/

On Sat, 19 May 2007 Tim Tyler wrote:

Very good. I like it. However you make propagation sound terribly
easy. I've tried propagating from my black mulberry for many years,
cuttings and seed, but have consistently had a 100% failure rate.

[snip advice]

I'm not sure what to suggest. Perhaps try different seed?

Incidentally it seems possible that pinching out
the young male catkins from Morus Nigra specimins
could result in more resources being available
for the fruit. I wonder if this hypothesis is
reasonable, and whether it has been tested.

How big should the seeds be? Mine seem to be smaller than, say, a
blackberry seed.

David

--
David Rance http://www.mesnil.demon.co.uk
Fido Address: 2:252/110 writing from Caversham, Reading, UK

Tim Tyler writes
K wrote:
Tim Tyler writes
David Rance wrote:
On Sat, 19 May 2007 Tim Tyler wrote:

-- http://mulberrytrees.co.uk/ --
Very good. I like it. However you make propagation sound terribly
easy. I've tried propagating from my black mulberry for many years,
cuttings and seed, but have consistently had a 100% failure rate.

[snip advice]

I'm not sure what to suggest. Perhaps try different seed?
Some of your links were suggesting that some mulberries have male
and female flowers on separate plants (in US many people grow male
plants to avoid the fruit making a mess), so could a female plant
produce non-viable seed?

Black mulberries are monoecious - so this seems
unlikely to be an issue.

Ah - I was misled by one of your links:

"Mulberries are dioecious, meaning that the flowering parts are on
different trees–males and females–and the fruits and seeds are
produced on the female plants. Chiles and tomatoes, for example, are
monoecious, with all flowering parts on the same plant.

Because the female mulberry trees produce huge amounts of fruit that
stain everything they touch, most people plant the male trees, the
so-called fruitless mulberries that are grown from cuttings, or clones.
"

Incidentally it seems possible that pinching out
the young male catkins from Morus Nigra specimins
could result in more resources being available
for the fruit. I wonder if this hypothesis is
reasonable, and whether it has been tested.

Do you still get fruit if you pinch out the male catkins?

--
Kay