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Glyphosate
I have read that glyphosate is deactivated when it comes into contact
with the soil. Does that mean that you can spray weeds with glyphosate one week and then safely plant shrubs in the same area of land a few weeks later without there being any fears of the glyphosate which was originally used? Thanks, Emrys Davies |
Glyphosate
Emrys Davies wrote:
I have read that glyphosate is deactivated when it comes into contact with the soil. Does that mean that you can spray weeds with glyphosate one week and then safely plant shrubs in the same area of land a few weeks later without there being any fears of the glyphosate which was originally used? Thanks, Emrys Davies Yes. In fact you could probably plant the next day. Glyphosate is only effective when absorbed through the green parts of a plant. You could, I understand, safely spray it on a deciduous plant which had no leaves. -- Jeff (cut "thetape" to reply) |
Glyphosate
Emrys Davies wrote:
I have read that glyphosate is deactivated when it comes into contact with the soil. Does that mean that you can spray weeds with glyphosate one week and then safely plant shrubs in the same area of land a few weeks later without there being any fears of the glyphosate which was originally used? Pretty much. The limiting step is waiting for the sprayed weeds to die. The weedkiller loses its activity on hitting the ground (as do one or two others as they adsorb strongly onto clay and are then more slowly chemically degraded). Ivy seedlings and a few other extremely waxy plants can survive some glyphosate spray, but it isn't something to rely on. And grass is exquisitiely sensitive to it so be careful not ot walk across a lawn after using the stuff if you got any on your boots. Regards, Martin Brown ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Quote:
Be careful when spraying that it does not get onto your skin and that you do not breathe it in. |
Glyphosate
On 15 May, 18:57, "Emrys Davies" wrote:
I have read that glyphosate is deactivated when it comes into contact with the soil. Does that mean that you can spray weeds with glyphosate one week and then safely plant shrubs in the same area of land a few weeks later without there being any fears of the glyphosate which was originally used? Thanks, Emrys Davies Actually this is a slightly dodgy claim. It actually depends on the soil. The glyphosate isn't destroyed on contact with the soil, which is often how it gets repeated but it gets attached onto clay particles. If you don't have clay particles because your soil is primarily peat or sand then it can't happen. Also this can't be as instantaneous as the marketing speak seems to suggest. If it were it would constitute a risk of fire or explosion. It will take a while If your soil contains clay,as admittedly most soils do, then you are probably OK a week later. |
Glyphosate
Martin Brown wrote:
wrote: On 15 May, 18:57, "Emrys Davies" wrote: I have read that glyphosate is deactivated when it comes into contact with the soil. Does that mean that you can spray weeds with glyphosate one week and then safely plant shrubs in the same area of land a few weeks later without there being any fears of the glyphosate which was originally used? Short answer is Yes. Actually this is a slightly dodgy claim. It actually depends on the soil. The glyphosate isn't destroyed on contact with the soil, which is often how it gets repeated but it gets attached onto clay particles. If you don't have clay particles because your soil is primarily peat or sand then it can't happen. For this to be a serious problem you have to be on wind sorted desert sands or a perfect pure peat bog. Even a trace of fine clay will provide enough surface area to lock it down. Extreme cold and darkness will slow down the final decomposition too. Also this can't be as instantaneous as the marketing speak seems to suggest. If it were it would constitute a risk of fire or explosion. It will take a while "A while" for physical adsorption onto clay is a fraction of a second on contact. It is the same sort of thing that makes activated charcoal take out impurities in tapwater and on about that sort of timescale. If you want to test it spray some glyphosate onto your soil, take a sample of the newly sprayed soil and add mustard & cress seeds. If they grow OK then you have your answer (may fail on peat based composts). To test the limits you could try planting mustard and cress and using glyphosate spray immediately for their first watering. I don't know if they can survive that since it will leave active residue on the seeds surface. If your soil contains clay,as admittedly most soils do, then you are probably OK a week later. A trace of clay and the soil will lock up and deactivate the glyphosate. The molecules persist for a while but they cannot do anything. Regards, Martin Brown ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** So, do you reckon injection by syringe is an effective delivery method for glyphosphates? I'm thinking particularly of borage where I could lop off the top of the plant and inject into the main stem as I go. This would presumably not deliver much volume of liquid but at least it would be accurately placed. The roots are about a foot long so digging out isn't really an option. |
Glyphosate
In article , stuart noble writes: | | So, do you reckon injection by syringe is an effective delivery method | for glyphosphates? I'm thinking particularly of borage where I could lop | off the top of the plant and inject into the main stem as I go. This | would presumably not deliver much volume of liquid but at least it would | be accurately placed. The roots are about a foot long so digging out | isn't really an option. You don't mean borage - that is an annual. You probably mean comfrey or alkanet. In my experience, alkanet doesn't regrow from from far below ground, so digging it out to 4-6" down is successful. Comfrey may be a bit harder, but I should have thought that digging it out to 6-8" down would work. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Glyphosate
On 16/5/08 10:23, in article , "stuart
noble" wrote: snip So, do you reckon injection by syringe is an effective delivery method for glyphosphates? I'm thinking particularly of borage where I could lop off the top of the plant and inject into the main stem as I go. This would presumably not deliver much volume of liquid but at least it would be accurately placed. The roots are about a foot long so digging out isn't really an option. Borage! And there's me desperate for some. I'm the only person I know that's killed it off! Don't get rid of it, just buy more Pimms. ;-)) -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
stuart noble wrote:
Martin Brown wrote: A trace of clay and the soil will lock up and deactivate the glyphosate. The molecules persist for a while but they cannot do anything. So, do you reckon injection by syringe is an effective delivery method for glyphosphates? I'm thinking particularly of borage where I could lop off the top of the plant and inject into the main stem as I go. This would presumably not deliver much volume of liquid but at least it would be accurately placed. The roots are about a foot long so digging out isn't really an option. I wouldn't recommend messing about with syringes and injecting it into plants. I think it has been tried for Japanese knotweed (hollow stems) but is no longer recommended (which I take to mean it didn't work well enough to be worth the effort). Glyphosate is sufficiently lethal to green plants in growth that a spray head adjusted to give a small jet can be accurately used. Failing that a small paint brush. And if you hit something as collateral damage prune the affected bit off immediately. You seem to get a better translocation kill of bad weeds with extended root systems if the weedkiller is slightly over diluted (by 10-20% which makes it go further as well). For some reason buttercup seems to tolerate it better than most plants. Regards, Martin Brown ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Glyphosate
Sacha wrote:
On 16/5/08 10:23, in article , "stuart noble" wrote: snip So, do you reckon injection by syringe is an effective delivery method for glyphosphates? I'm thinking particularly of borage where I could lop off the top of the plant and inject into the main stem as I go. This would presumably not deliver much volume of liquid but at least it would be accurately placed. The roots are about a foot long so digging out isn't really an option. Borage! And there's me desperate for some. I'm the only person I know that's killed it off! Don't get rid of it, just buy more Pimms. ;-)) Nick's right I think. It's not my garden, so I can't nip out and check, but it looks like it's alkanet. The soil's good so it probably won't be that difficult to get down to a fork depth, and hopefully I won't need a weedkiller at all. That just leaves the onion weed, which is occupying the shady side of what should be the lawn. The grass stops where the weed starts, so I guess it's preventing the grass from growing. Any advice on that front? |
Glyphosate
In article , stuart noble writes: | | That just leaves the onion weed, which is occupying the shady side of | what should be the lawn. The grass stops where the weed starts, so I | guess it's preventing the grass from growing. Any advice on that front? Onion weed? I think that we need a bit more information :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Glyphosate
Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article , stuart noble writes: | | That just leaves the onion weed, which is occupying the shady side of | what should be the lawn. The grass stops where the weed starts, so I | guess it's preventing the grass from growing. Any advice on that front? Onion weed? I think that we need a bit more information :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) |
Glyphosate
On 16/5/08 12:06, in article , "stuart
noble" wrote: Nick Maclaren wrote: In article , stuart noble writes: | | That just leaves the onion weed, which is occupying the shady side of | what should be the lawn. The grass stops where the weed starts, so I | guess it's preventing the grass from growing. Any advice on that front? Onion weed? I think that we need a bit more information :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
Sacha wrote:
On 16/5/08 12:06, in article , "stuart noble" wrote: Nick Maclaren wrote: Onion weed? I think that we need a bit more information :-) Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. The local gamekeeper claimed eating a raw bulb of ransoms (wild garlic) would cure the common cold. It certainly prevented infection as no-one would go near him after he had eaten one! (They smell very strongly of garlic when in flower, ie now) I thought from the initial description it was one of the other wild onion family plants that has huge numbers of bulblets and looks like a cross between chives and onion. Almost grass or reed like in appearence. Regards, Martin Brown ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Glyphosate
Sacha wrote:
On 16/5/08 12:06, in article , "stuart noble" wrote: Nick Maclaren wrote: In article , stuart noble writes: | | That just leaves the onion weed, which is occupying the shady side of | what should be the lawn. The grass stops where the weed starts, so I | guess it's preventing the grass from growing. Any advice on that front? Onion weed? I think that we need a bit more information :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. Thanks for the positive ID. If I thought it would behave itself in a lawn, I might leave it alone, but I'm beginning to wonder if the antiseptic properties might actually deter other plants. It certainly looks that way |
Glyphosate
In article , stuart noble writes: | | Thanks for the positive ID. If I thought it would behave itself in a | lawn, I might leave it alone, but I'm beginning to wonder if the | antiseptic properties might actually deter other plants. It certainly | looks that way Ramsons has broad leaves - the others that I know of have narrow ones, but it doesn't make a lot of difference to their properties. Many of them are invasive, and all are attractive and (I believe) edible. If it is ramsons or some of the others (or bluebells!), the primary way they discourage grass and other plants is by producing a solid mass of leaves and/or bulbs/roots - so they remove all light, water etc. I don't think that any of them will survive repeated mowing, or invade into a regularly mown area. But that does mean during most of their growing season. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Glyphosate
Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article , stuart noble writes: | | Thanks for the positive ID. If I thought it would behave itself in a | lawn, I might leave it alone, but I'm beginning to wonder if the | antiseptic properties might actually deter other plants. It certainly | looks that way Ramsons has broad leaves - the others that I know of have narrow ones, but it doesn't make a lot of difference to their properties. Many of them are invasive, and all are attractive and (I believe) edible. If it is ramsons or some of the others (or bluebells!), the primary way they discourage grass and other plants is by producing a solid mass of leaves and/or bulbs/roots - so they remove all light, water etc. I don't think that any of them will survive repeated mowing, or invade into a regularly mown area. But that does mean during most of their growing season. Regards, Nick Maclaren. Cheers, Nick. That's reassuring |
Glyphosate
In message , stuart noble
writes Sacha wrote: On 16/5/08 12:06, in article , "stuart noble" wrote: Nick Maclaren wrote: In article , stuart noble writes: | | That just leaves the onion weed, which is occupying the shady side of | what should be the lawn. The grass stops where the weed starts, so I | guess it's preventing the grass from growing. Any advice on that front? Onion weed? I think that we need a bit more information :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. Thanks for the positive ID. If I thought it would behave itself in a lawn, I might leave it alone, but I'm beginning to wonder if the antiseptic properties might actually deter other plants. It certainly looks that way Allium triquetum and Ramsoms (Allium ursinum) are not the same thing. Neither looks like a bluebell to my eyes, but (pictures of) Allium triquetum looks closer. (I've only seem the latter in the phloem.) -- Stewart Robert Hinsley http://florulaprima.blogspot.com |
Glyphosate
Jeoff. and Martin, Thanks a lot for that. The weedkiller to which I refer is known as Spasor Biactive Herbicide. A solubable concentrate containing 480 g\l (41%) isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, equivalent to 360 g\l glyphosate. Would your comments i.e. that it is safe to plant in land to which Glyphosate has been applied, apply to Spasor Biactive Herbicide? Thanks, Emrys Davies |
Glyphosate
Emrys Davies wrote:
Jeoff. and Martin, Thanks a lot for that. The weedkiller to which I refer is known as Spasor Biactive Herbicide. A solubable concentrate containing 480 g\l (41%) isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, equivalent to 360 g\l glyphosate. Would your comments i.e. that it is safe to plant in land to which Glyphosate has been applied, apply to Spasor Biactive Herbicide? Just check the small print to make sure "biactive" doesn't mean it also contains some other more persistant weedkiller as well. I knew someone who used "Pathclear" on their lawn. It killed the weeds OK, but it was the devils own job to get grass to regrow on the bare patches. Glyphosate is astonishingly lethal to green plants considering how relatively benign it is to mammals. You have more to fear from the surfactant wetting agents than from the active ingredient. By the time the weeds are dead the glyphosate will be totally inert on the clay and partially decomposed to boot. Regards, Martin Brown ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Glyphosate
On 16/5/08 17:05, in article , "Martin
Brown" wrote: Emrys Davies wrote: Jeoff. and Martin, Thanks a lot for that. The weedkiller to which I refer is known as Spasor Biactive Herbicide. A solubable concentrate containing 480 g\l (41%) isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, equivalent to 360 g\l glyphosate. Would your comments i.e. that it is safe to plant in land to which Glyphosate has been applied, apply to Spasor Biactive Herbicide? Just check the small print to make sure "biactive" doesn't mean it also contains some other more persistant weedkiller as well. I knew someone who used "Pathclear" on their lawn. It killed the weeds OK, but it was the devils own job to get grass to regrow on the bare patches. Glyphosate is astonishingly lethal to green plants considering how relatively benign it is to mammals. You have more to fear from the surfactant wetting agents than from the active ingredient. By the time the weeds are dead the glyphosate will be totally inert on the clay and partially decomposed to boot. Glyphosate fact sheet http://www.pan-uk.org/pestnews/Actives/glyphosa.htm -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
Martin,
I should have said that amongst the recommendations for use is included 'It is also recommended for clearing up weedy ground prior to planting or sowing' so that, you may think, dispels the fear of other drastic ingredients being present. Thanks a lot, Emrys Davies "Martin Brown" wrote in message ... Emrys Davies wrote: Jeoff. and Martin, Thanks a lot for that. The weedkiller to which I refer is known as Spasor Biactive Herbicide. A solubable concentrate containing 480 g\l (41%) isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, equivalent to 360 g\l glyphosate. Would your comments i.e. that it is safe to plant in land to which Glyphosate has been applied, apply to Spasor Biactive Herbicide? Just check the small print to make sure "biactive" doesn't mean it also contains some other more persistant weedkiller as well. I knew someone who used "Pathclear" on their lawn. It killed the weeds OK, but it was the devils own job to get grass to regrow on the bare patches. Glyphosate is astonishingly lethal to green plants considering how relatively benign it is to mammals. You have more to fear from the surfactant wetting agents than from the active ingredient. By the time the weeds are dead the glyphosate will be totally inert on the clay and partially decomposed to boot. Regards, Martin Brown ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Glyphosate
This seems to be a quite neutral link.
Note that although the product is old and well out of patent, it is still being heavily promoted. This is no doubt due to the commercial existence of GM crops that are resistant to it. I have no fixed opinion on GM or on agrochemicals, but those interested in informed debate will be aware of the pressures that might arise if the safety of glyphosate is called into question. I use the stuff myself, I hope with discernement, but I object to the burnt appearance that many roadside verges have every springtime. Regards "Sacha" a écrit dans le message de ... On 16/5/08 17:05, in article , "Martin Brown" wrote: Emrys Davies wrote: Jeoff. and Martin, Thanks a lot for that. The weedkiller to which I refer is known as Spasor Biactive Herbicide. A solubable concentrate containing 480 g\l (41%) isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, equivalent to 360 g\l glyphosate. Would your comments i.e. that it is safe to plant in land to which Glyphosate has been applied, apply to Spasor Biactive Herbicide? Just check the small print to make sure "biactive" doesn't mean it also contains some other more persistant weedkiller as well. I knew someone who used "Pathclear" on their lawn. It killed the weeds OK, but it was the devils own job to get grass to regrow on the bare patches. Glyphosate is astonishingly lethal to green plants considering how relatively benign it is to mammals. You have more to fear from the surfactant wetting agents than from the active ingredient. By the time the weeds are dead the glyphosate will be totally inert on the clay and partially decomposed to boot. Glyphosate fact sheet http://www.pan-uk.org/pestnews/Actives/glyphosa.htm -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
In article , "Daddy Tadpole" writes: | | Note that although the product is old and well out of patent, it is still | being heavily promoted. This is no doubt due to the commercial existence of | GM crops that are resistant to it. Coming soon to a weed near you .... | I have no fixed opinion on GM or on agrochemicals, but those interested in | informed debate will be aware of the pressures that might arise if the | safety of glyphosate is called into question. Considering what happened to me over Benlate, yes, indeed. An agent of the makers was watching this group. My speculation was right and the official line was a load of porkies. Another area where there is massive pressure is over the possibility that the use of 'sun screen' creams may actually be a significant factor in the 'melanoma epidemic'. You won't see that reported, but there is considerable evidence pointing that way and some ongoing research (but very much under wraps). Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Glyphosate
In message , Sacha
writes Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. I don't think that it will be Ransoms (Allium ursinum) as the flowers although white are not like those of a blue bell - have a look here http://www.ukwildflowers.com/Web_pag...um_ramsons.htm The Ransoms which abound in the adjacent wood and in our front shrub border (despite annual applications of glyphosate for the last eight years) do not need crushing to release their 'perfume' it is just omnipresent. I love wildflowers and try to promote their use in our garden and, whenever I get the opportunity, elsewhere, but Ransoms most definitely comes under the heading of invasive. The probable alternative is Three cornered leek/garlic (A. triquetrum) as indicated above. A non-native plant which I have noticed is present in quite large drifts at the sides of a local road but has not yet reached here. -- Robert |
Glyphosate
On 16/5/08 22:01, in article , "robert"
wrote: In message , Sacha writes Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. I don't think that it will be Ransoms (Allium ursinum) as the flowers although white are not like those of a blue bell - have a look here http://www.ukwildflowers.com/Web_pag...um_ramsons.htm The Ransoms which abound in the adjacent wood and in our front shrub border (despite annual applications of glyphosate for the last eight years) do not need crushing to release their 'perfume' it is just omnipresent. I love wildflowers and try to promote their use in our garden and, whenever I get the opportunity, elsewhere, but Ransoms most definitely comes under the heading of invasive. The probable alternative is Three cornered leek/garlic (A. triquetrum) as indicated above. A non-native plant which I have noticed is present in quite large drifts at the sides of a local road but has not yet reached here. Well, this is interesting BUT the OP wants to know how to be rid of it. I don't think he's over concerned about its botanical name! So - how would you get rid of it? -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
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Glyphosate
Sacha wrote:
On 16/5/08 22:01, in article , "robert" wrote: In message , Sacha writes Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. I don't think that it will be Ransoms (Allium ursinum) as the flowers although white are not like those of a blue bell - have a look here http://www.ukwildflowers.com/Web_pag...um_ramsons.htm The Ransoms which abound in the adjacent wood and in our front shrub border (despite annual applications of glyphosate for the last eight years) do not need crushing to release their 'perfume' it is just omnipresent. I love wildflowers and try to promote their use in our garden and, whenever I get the opportunity, elsewhere, but Ransoms most definitely comes under the heading of invasive. The probable alternative is Three cornered leek/garlic (A. triquetrum) as indicated above. A non-native plant which I have noticed is present in quite large drifts at the sides of a local road but has not yet reached here. Well, this is interesting BUT the OP wants to know how to be rid of it. I don't think he's over concerned about its botanical name! So - how would you get rid of it? It does help to know exactly what it is you're trying to get rid of though, so I'm grateful for the discussion :-) |
Glyphosate
Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article , Sacha writes: | On 16/5/08 22:01, in article , "robert" | wrote: | | The probable alternative is Three cornered leek/garlic (A. triquetrum) | as indicated above. A non-native plant which I have noticed is present | in quite large drifts at the sides of a local road but has not yet | reached here. | | Well, this is interesting BUT the OP wants to know how to be rid of it. I | don't think he's over concerned about its botanical name! So - how would | you get rid of it? A quick look through my books indicates that it could also be crow garlic! Whatever. There is a difference between ramsons and the others, in that the broader leaves block more light and rain, but that is all. As I said, mowing. I have some very invasive lily of the valley in a bed (I leave them - the other plants can handle it), but it never invades the lawn because it can't stand being mown. The garlics are similar. Even bluebells will eventually go from a mown area. But it must be close-mown, starting early in the season. Regards, Nick Maclaren. Thanks, Nick. That's a policy that's always worked for me but, like most things in the garden, it isn't a quick fix. The fashion now seems to be to let everything get out of hand, then call Groundforce for a makeover. |
Glyphosate
In article , stuart noble writes: | | Thanks, Nick. That's a policy that's always worked for me but, like most | things in the garden, it isn't a quick fix. | The fashion now seems to be to let everything get out of hand, then call | Groundforce for a makeover. As my children frequently pointed out, I have never really adapted to the invention of metalworking and am the sort of person who points out the advantages of flint-knapping :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Glyphosate
On 17/5/08 08:33, in article , "stuart
noble" wrote: Sacha wrote: snip Well, this is interesting BUT the OP wants to know how to be rid of it. I don't think he's over concerned about its botanical name! So - how would you get rid of it? It does help to know exactly what it is you're trying to get rid of though, so I'm grateful for the discussion :-) I know what you mean but my crystal ball told me this was going to go off into of those obscure urg discussions before returning about a month later to the original point! But if you're going to glyphosate it or keep mowing it, whatever-it-is will be an ex-plant. Just ask the lady whose husband strimmed one of her young Lavateras to death! -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
In article , VivienB writes: | On 16 May 2008 09:41:56 GMT, (Nick Maclaren) wrote: | | You probably mean comfrey or alkanet. In my experience, alkanet | doesn't regrow from from far below ground, so digging it out to | 4-6" down is successful. | | I have had it regrow, having dug much deeper than that. Are you SURE it came from the deep roots? I thought it happened to me, so I checked (more than once). No - I had missed (or buried) a piece of near-surface root fairly close to the surface in every case. | It so happens someone asked Helen Yemm about this, her response is at: | http://tinyurl.com/3twmqo That doesn't make it right. I am pretty sure that she, like most other people who say the same thing, have failed to dig out alkanet, and have assumed that it regrew drom deep roots - without checking. Also, she is 'encouraged' to recommend the products sold by the newspaper's advertisers. The companies complain to the proprietors if they feel that such writers are pushing alternative solutions too hard, and the Daily Telegraph does not have a wonderful reputation in that respect, even by the standards of UK newspapers. Alkanet is fairly resistant to glyphosate, incidentally. I have tried that a few times, and find digging much more effective. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Glyphosate
Also, she is 'encouraged' to recommend the products sold by the newspaper's advertisers. The companies complain to the proprietors if they feel that such writers are pushing alternative solutions too hard, and the Daily Telegraph does not have a wonderful reputation in that respect, even by the standards of UK newspapers. Hmm, referring to brand names rather than generic terms does make you wonder. As someone said on here recently, the Bayer (hardly novices in the chemical business) version is on sale in the Pound Shop. |
Glyphosate
In message , Sacha
writes Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. I don't think that it will be Ransoms (Allium ursinum) as the flowers although white are not like those of a blue bell - have a look here http://www.ukwildflowers.com/Web_pag...um_ramsons.htm The Ransoms which abound in the adjacent wood and in our front shrub border (despite annual applications of glyphosate for the last eight years) do not need crushing to release their 'perfume' it is just omnipresent. I love wildflowers and try to promote their use in our garden and, whenever I get the opportunity, elsewhere, but Ransoms most definitely comes under the heading of invasive. The probable alternative is Three cornered leek/garlic (A. triquetrum) as indicated above. A non-native plant which I have noticed is present in quite large drifts at the sides of a local road but has not yet reached here. Well, this is interesting BUT the OP wants to know how to be rid of it. I don't think he's over concerned about its botanical name! So - how would you get rid of it? I am delighted that you found my post interesting but I am surprised that you do not appreciate the usefulness of botanical names when referring to wildflowers in particular, many of which have several common names, as indicated above for A. triquetrum where I just noted two of the many common names. In this case it also flags up the fact that the plants are both of the allium family which could possibly help in finding a suitable method of disposal. As indicated I have tried glyphosate to control Ransoms but with only limited success - others have now indicated that frequent cutting works. It has always been the case on this newsgroup that we may offer a partial answer or information that may simply be of interest in response to questions, as I am sure you are aware. -- Robert |
Glyphosate
On 17/5/08 12:20, in article , "robert"
wrote: In message , Sacha writes Looks like a white bluebell and smells strongly when crushed. Allium triquetum I think. As I said, I'm working from memory here. Very frustrating :-) Aka Ransoms or wild garlic. Dig it up or spray it seems to be the only way. I rather like it so when I had it in a previous garden, I always kept some of it. But it absolutely fills the verges of some of the lanes round here. I don't think that it will be Ransoms (Allium ursinum) as the flowers although white are not like those of a blue bell - have a look here http://www.ukwildflowers.com/Web_pag...um_ramsons.htm The Ransoms which abound in the adjacent wood and in our front shrub border (despite annual applications of glyphosate for the last eight years) do not need crushing to release their 'perfume' it is just omnipresent. I love wildflowers and try to promote their use in our garden and, whenever I get the opportunity, elsewhere, but Ransoms most definitely comes under the heading of invasive. The probable alternative is Three cornered leek/garlic (A. triquetrum) as indicated above. A non-native plant which I have noticed is present in quite large drifts at the sides of a local road but has not yet reached here. Well, this is interesting BUT the OP wants to know how to be rid of it. I don't think he's over concerned about its botanical name! So - how would you get rid of it? I am delighted that you found my post interesting but I am surprised that you do not appreciate the usefulness of botanical names when referring to wildflowers in particular, many of which have several common names, as indicated above for A. triquetrum where I just noted two of the many common names. In this case it also flags up the fact that the plants are both of the allium family which could possibly help in finding a suitable method of disposal. As indicated I have tried glyphosate to control Ransoms but with only limited success - others have now indicated that frequent cutting works. It has always been the case on this newsgroup that we may offer a partial answer or information that may simply be of interest in response to questions, as I am sure you are aware. Oh dear. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Glyphosate
It does help to know exactly what it is you're trying to get rid of though, so I'm grateful for the discussion :-) I know what you mean but my crystal ball told me this was going to go off into of those obscure urg discussions before returning about a month later to the original point! Wouldn't be usenet otherwise :-) |
Glyphosate
robert wrote:
.. As indicated I have tried glyphosate to control Ransoms but with only limited success - Not surprising. If glyphosate has a weakness, it is with bulbs. I have found that it doesn't always kill bulbs, but the new leaves which appear the next year are often somewhat chlorotic and the plant is much weaker. If healthy leaves eventually appear, it usually means that the plant has survived. Another spraying or two will then be required. -- Jeff (cut "thetape" to reply) |
Glyphosate
In message , Jeff Layman
writes robert wrote: . As indicated I have tried glyphosate to control Ransoms but with only limited success - Not surprising. If glyphosate has a weakness, it is with bulbs. I have found that it doesn't always kill bulbs, but the new leaves which appear the next year are often somewhat chlorotic and the plant is much weaker. If healthy leaves eventually appear, it usually means that the plant has survived. Another spraying or two will then be required. That is useful - many thanks. It looks as though digging them out is probably going to be the best option in the long run. -- Robert |
Glyphosate
On 17/5/08 12:44, in article , "stuart
noble" wrote: It does help to know exactly what it is you're trying to get rid of though, so I'm grateful for the discussion :-) I know what you mean but my crystal ball told me this was going to go off into of those obscure urg discussions before returning about a month later to the original point! Wouldn't be usenet otherwise :-) Oh indeed. But by then the weed will either be rampant or it will be autumn and the question will be academic. ;-)) -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
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