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Clay soil:
My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay.
Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house. They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand. Can anyone advise on this? The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing. I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage. (Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.) All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated. |
Clay soil:
"Me-G" wrote in message ... My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay. Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house. They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand. Can anyone advise on this? The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing. I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage. (Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.) All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated. -- Me-G As Charlie has said, it is best not to tread on heavy clay in winter. And when it is time, it may be better to stand on old floorboards when digging to help spread the load. There are special products (based on gypsum) which break up clay, but these are not cheap for a reasonably large area and after a while the clay gets claggy again. They also make the soil alkaline. The best thing is well-rotted compost, and lots of it, but unless added each year the clay will steadily reappear. You can also try land drains (basically drainpipes with many holes in the sides and which are filled with gravel), but in my experience these aren't of much use as the clay soon gets into them and blocks them. But there is a bright side. In times of drought, although the surface will go almost as hard as concrete, it will retain moisture better than most other soils, so watering is not needed so frequently (which is a good thing as it just runs off anyway!). There are many plants which are said to not like clay soil (particularly ericaceous), but I'm not so sure. I have even grown and fruited blueberries in clay soil with a pH of around 6, and rhodos seem to do ok, too. If you can afford the time and cost, just put the plants in and let them decide if they like your soil or not. -- Jeff |
Clay soil:
"Me-G" wrote My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay. Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house. They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand. Can anyone advise on this? The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing. I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage. (Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.) All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated. I have gardened on nice fertile clay for years on our allotments and you have to be very careful when you work it, moisture wise, and never stand on it without walking boards. Dug at the wrong time and it will ball up, bake hard in summer, and take years to get any structure back. Don't dig when wet can't dig when dry! Gypsum will break up clay allowing it to be worked, sand and humus to be incorporated etc, but it's not a permanent fix Spring should be good provided it's drained by then, sharp sand or grit well rotovated in will help drainage and one of our plot holders has used it on his large plot to good effect although he has to water considerably more in a dry summer. Humus worked in at the right time is best but it has to be done often. Most plants don't mind clay soil BT, but if you want a lawn then you will certainly need to get the drainage right now. Do check the pH too, clay can be quite acidic. -- Regards Bob Hobden W.of London. UK |
Clay soil:
Me-G wrote:
My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay. Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house. They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand. Can anyone advise on this? The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing. I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage. (Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.) All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated. Get the drainage right, of course. Dig in a lot of limestone ballast / limestone dust (if you can get it from your local builders merchant) Takes several full seasons to work but the effect lasts for a very, very long time (like decades and centuries). A cheap, more instant, fix is to dig in alot of builder's plaster - its the same gypsum as you can buy at 10x the price at your local garden centre. Good luck! RJBL |
Clay soil:
In message , Jeff Layman
writes There are special products (based on gypsum) which break up clay, but these are not cheap for a reasonably large area and after a while the clay gets claggy again. They also make the soil alkaline. The benefit of gypsum (as opposed to much cheaper lime) is that it does not change the pH of the soil. -- hugh It may be more complicated but is it better? |
Clay soil:
RJBL wrote:
Get the drainage right, of course. Dig in a lot of limestone ballast / limestone dust (if you can get it from your local builders merchant) Takes several full seasons to work but the effect lasts for a very, very long time (like decades and centuries). A cheap, more instant, fix is to dig in alot of builder's plaster - its the same gypsum as you can buy at 10x the price at your local garden centre. Some of it... And I'm told, (fresh) siruphite is no longer available as something nasty happened to the seam of gypsum. Good luck! Indeed. Lots of well-rotted compost and/or manure is my prescription. The worms will breed like good-uns, and take the stuff down and bring-up the clay, and their holes help with drainage and aeration. Unfortunately, worms atttact moles. Their contribution is not really welcome. -- Rusty |
Clay soil:
"hugh" ] wrote in message ... In message , Jeff Layman writes There are special products (based on gypsum) which break up clay, but these are not cheap for a reasonably large area and after a while the clay gets claggy again. They also make the soil alkaline. The benefit of gypsum (as opposed to much cheaper lime) is that it does not change the pH of the soil. Quite right. I wonder where I read that it did? -- hugh It may be more complicated but is it better? -- Jeff |
Clay soil:
On 31 Jan, 06:52, Me-G supernanna.cal-
wrote: My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. *Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. *The garden is like a solid mass of clay. Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. * In that, I suspect you were lucky. If it's got puddled, it was pretty clay-ey to begin with and there is an old maxim in the building trade 'the quality of the given ground is the client's responsibility' That said there are 3 well established ways for breaking up clay - increasing the particle size with sand or grit, adding humous, and chemical treatment. The alternative is to replace the top layer with imported loam. None of these are successful in the wet, and I reckon you won't get much done in time for spring flowering plants. If the building work has been going on for years, just put up with a few weeks more and let them do the remedial work march/april time as conditions permit, and then plant up for the summer. You are likely to still have to do some work on it yourself for several years, digging in humus, etc. |
Quote:
Hmmm, well, a lawn sounds rather grand for my wee patch but a grassy washing green would be wonderful. I also want that for my grandchildren's swing etc. Unfortunately the clay earth has already been well trampled. I am in Fife, Scotland. This town was build, for the pits, on extremely fertile farm land (as is all over Fife,) starting way back in 1948 along with the other New Towns. I understand that the nutrition is in the clay: teaming with minerals etc. so I don't want rid of the clay. Just a way to manage and afford it drainage to make it less mucky and, so too, the house - mud is constantly trailed in by the dogs, even cat and very definitely tradesmen. As it's clay, it stains/sticks in the pile of carpets: very difficult to remove. Age and health determine that I can't do the heavy work in the garden albeit a very small garden. I would also like to grow some vegetables again: organically. |
Clay soil:
"Me-G" wrote in message ... My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay. Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house. They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand. Can anyone advise on this? The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing. I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage. (Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.) All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated. -- Me-G My soil is heavy clay, too. I find the best remedies are masses of sharp grit and composted bark. I avoid working the soil in winter or when it's very wet, and avoid treading on it as much as possible at any time. For plantings that require lighter soil and free-draining conditions, I tend to use raised beds. Adding compost/soil conditioners are extremely good for the soil, but they will disappear in the blinking of an eye. You will never stop adding them. I use a fork when breaking up the soil because I feel there is less strain on my back. I tend to use my spade when I need to *move* soil, rather than just turn and aerate it. If your tradesmen were builders, they will probably have heaps of builders sand and may want to use it. It is far too fine and soft to alleviate your heavy and sticky clay soil. Sharp sand or, better still, sharp grit (not smoother gravel) will, in quantity, open up the claggy texture of your soil much better. Because sand and grit will not add nutrients, you will also need to add lots of manure (if you can get it) and bulky compost. -- Spider from high ground in SE London, gardening on clay. |
Clay soil:
Spider wrote:
"Me-G" wrote in message ... My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay. Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house. They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand. Can anyone advise on this? The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing. I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage. (Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.) All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated. -- Me-G My soil is heavy clay, too. I find the best remedies are masses of sharp grit and composted bark. I avoid working the soil in winter or when it's very wet, and avoid treading on it as much as possible at any time. For plantings that require lighter soil and free-draining conditions, I tend to use raised beds. Adding compost/soil conditioners are extremely good for the soil, but they will disappear in the blinking of an eye. You will never stop adding them. I use a fork when breaking up the soil because I feel there is less strain on my back. I tend to use my spade when I need to *move* soil, rather than just turn and aerate it. If your tradesmen were builders, they will probably have heaps of builders sand and may want to use it. It is far too fine and soft to alleviate your heavy and sticky clay soil. Sharp sand or, better still, sharp grit (not smoother gravel) will, in quantity, open up the claggy texture of your soil much better. Because sand and grit will not add nutrients, you will also need to add lots of manure (if you can get it) and bulky compost. In a small garden it might be worth considering vermiculite. £8 per 100L for the coarse stuff and, once incorporated, it should prevent the clay getting compressed again |
Clay soil:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message news:chF9n.34284 Can anyone advise on this? Do we not know how to 'snip'? -- Mike The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association www.rneba.org.uk Luxury Self Catering on the Isle of Wight? www.shanklinmanormews.co.uk |
Clay soil:
'Mike' wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message news:chF9n.34284 Can anyone advise on this? Do we not know how to 'snip'? Something one has to tolerate, along with advertisements posing as signatures. |
Clay soil:
Stuart Noble wrote:
'Mike' wrote: "Stuart Noble" wrote in message news:chF9n.34284 Can anyone advise on this? Do we not know how to 'snip'? Something one has to tolerate, Why? along with advertisements posing as signatures. Nothing wrong with that - as long as they're not too prominent. -- Rusty |
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