My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand. However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work, they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.

In article , supernanna.cal-SpamtraP-
lid says...

My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov
er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't
drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant
cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand.
However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to
a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated
with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as
it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready
for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work,
they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being
sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date
for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the
earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia
rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.




--
Me-G

My only dealings with clay soil lead me to believe its best left alone
during winter. digging in grit and humus (compost or manure) will help
but just avoiding walking on it and sticking to the paths along with
annual heavy mulching is as good as anything allthough its not a quick
fix.


--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

"Me-G" wrote in message
...

My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov
er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't
drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant
cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand.
However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to
a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated
with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as
it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready
for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work,
they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being
sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date
for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the
earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia
rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.




--
Me-G

As Charlie has said, it is best not to tread on heavy clay in winter. And
when it is time, it may be better to stand on old floorboards when digging
to help spread the load.

There are special products (based on gypsum) which break up clay, but these
are not cheap for a reasonably large area and after a while the clay gets
claggy again. They also make the soil alkaline. The best thing is
well-rotted compost, and lots of it, but unless added each year the clay
will steadily reappear. You can also try land drains (basically drainpipes
with many holes in the sides and which are filled with gravel), but in my
experience these aren't of much use as the clay soon gets into them and
blocks them.

But there is a bright side. In times of drought, although the surface will
go almost as hard as concrete, it will retain moisture better than most
other soils, so watering is not needed so frequently (which is a good thing
as it just runs off anyway!).

There are many plants which are said to not like clay soil (particularly
ericaceous), but I'm not so sure. I have even grown and fruited blueberries
in clay soil with a pH of around 6, and rhodos seem to do ok, too. If you
can afford the time and cost, just put the plants in and let them decide if
they like your soil or not.

--

Jeff

"Me-G" wrote

My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov
er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't
drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant
cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand.
However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to
a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated
with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as
it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready
for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work,
they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being
sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date
for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the
earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia
rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.

I have gardened on nice fertile clay for years on our allotments and you
have to be very careful when you work it, moisture wise, and never stand on
it without walking boards. Dug at the wrong time and it will ball up, bake
hard in summer, and take years to get any structure back. Don't dig when wet
can't dig when dry!
Gypsum will break up clay allowing it to be worked, sand and humus to be
incorporated etc, but it's not a permanent fix
Spring should be good provided it's drained by then, sharp sand or grit well
rotovated in will help drainage and one of our plot holders has used it on
his large plot to good effect although he has to water considerably more in
a dry summer. Humus worked in at the right time is best but it has to be
done often.
Most plants don't mind clay soil BT, but if you want a lawn then you will
certainly need to get the drainage right now.
Do check the pH too, clay can be quite acidic.
--
Regards
Bob Hobden
W.of London. UK

Me-G wrote:
My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov
er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't
drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant
cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand.
However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to
a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated
with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as
it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready
for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work,
they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being
sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date
for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the
earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia
rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.




Get the drainage right, of course. Dig in a lot of limestone ballast /
limestone dust (if you can get it from your local builders merchant)
Takes several full seasons to work but the effect lasts for a very, very
long time (like decades and centuries). A cheap, more instant, fix is to
dig in alot of builder's plaster - its the same gypsum as you can buy at
10x the price at your local garden centre.

Good luck!

RJBL

In message , Jeff Layman
writes
There are special products (based on gypsum) which break up clay, but
these are not cheap for a reasonably large area and after a while the
clay gets claggy again. They also make the soil alkaline.

The benefit of gypsum (as opposed to much cheaper lime) is that it does
not change the pH of the soil.
--
hugh
It may be more complicated but is it better?

RJBL wrote:

Get the drainage right, of course. Dig in a lot of limestone ballast /
limestone dust (if you can get it from your local builders merchant)
Takes several full seasons to work but the effect lasts for a very, very
long time (like decades and centuries). A cheap, more instant, fix is to
dig in alot of builder's plaster - its the same gypsum as you can buy at
10x the price at your local garden centre.

Some of it...

And I'm told, (fresh) siruphite is no longer available as something
nasty happened to the seam of gypsum.

Good luck!

Indeed.

Lots of well-rotted compost and/or manure is my prescription. The worms
will breed like good-uns, and take the stuff down and bring-up the clay,
and their holes help with drainage and aeration.

Unfortunately, worms atttact moles. Their contribution is not really
welcome.

--
Rusty

"hugh" ] wrote in message
...
In message , Jeff Layman
writes
There are special products (based on gypsum) which break up clay, but
these are not cheap for a reasonably large area and after a while the clay
gets claggy again. They also make the soil alkaline.

The benefit of gypsum (as opposed to much cheaper lime) is that it does
not change the pH of the soil.

Quite right. I wonder where I read that it did?

--
hugh
It may be more complicated but is it better?



--

Jeff

On 31 Jan, 06:52, Me-G supernanna.cal-
wrote:
My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. *Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. *The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. *

In that, I suspect you were lucky. If it's got puddled, it was pretty
clay-ey to begin with and there is an old maxim in the building trade
'the quality of the given ground is the client's responsibility'

That said there are 3 well established ways for breaking up clay -
increasing the particle size with sand or grit, adding humous, and
chemical treatment. The alternative is to replace the top layer
with imported loam. None of these are successful in the wet, and I
reckon you won't get much done in time for spring flowering plants.

If the building work has been going on for years, just put up with a
few weeks more and let them do the remedial work march/april time as
conditions permit, and then plant up for the summer.

You are likely to still have to do some work on it yourself for
several years, digging in humus, etc.

Thank you so much for your input. Fancy a gardening holiday in Scotland: free accommodation? Heehee!

Hmmm, well, a lawn sounds rather grand for my wee patch but a grassy washing green would be wonderful. I also want that for my grandchildren's swing etc.

Unfortunately the clay earth has already been well trampled.

I am in Fife, Scotland. This town was build, for the pits, on extremely fertile farm land (as is all over Fife,) starting way back in 1948 along with the other New Towns.

I understand that the nutrition is in the clay: teaming with minerals etc. so I don't want rid of the clay. Just a way to manage and afford it drainage to make it less mucky and, so too, the house - mud is constantly trailed in by the dogs, even cat and very definitely tradesmen. As it's clay, it stains/sticks in the pile of carpets: very difficult to remove.

Age and health determine that I can't do the heavy work in the garden albeit a very small garden. I would also like to grow some vegetables again: organically.

"Me-G" wrote in message
...

My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov
er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't
drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant
cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand.
However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to
a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated
with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as
it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready
for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work,
they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being
sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date
for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the
earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia
rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.

--
Me-G


My soil is heavy clay, too. I find the best remedies are masses of sharp
grit and composted bark. I avoid working the soil in winter or when it's
very wet, and avoid treading on it as much as possible at any time. For
plantings that require lighter soil and free-draining conditions, I tend to
use raised beds. Adding compost/soil conditioners are extremely good for
the soil, but they will disappear in the blinking of an eye. You will never
stop adding them.

I use a fork when breaking up the soil because I feel there is less strain
on my back. I tend to use my spade when I need to *move* soil, rather than
just turn and aerate it.

If your tradesmen were builders, they will probably have heaps of builders
sand and may want to use it. It is far too fine and soft to alleviate your
heavy and sticky clay soil. Sharp sand or, better still, sharp grit (not
smoother gravel) will, in quantity, open up the claggy texture of your soil
much better. Because sand and grit will not add nutrients, you will also
need to add lots of manure (if you can get it) and bulky compost.


--
Spider
from high ground in SE London,
gardening on clay.

Spider wrote:
"Me-G" wrote in message
...
My garden has seen a lot of trampling by tradesmen over the past few
years. Retaining walls were destroyed, weeds, especially docks
flourished and, it seems, all draining material was washed away. The
garden is like a solid mass of clay.

Those responsible have agreed to "sort" the problem. They did dig it ov
er but the first heavy rain flattened it leaving puddles which didn't
drain for ages but did wash teh earth onto my paths: yewk: constant
cleaning and, as clay sticky so perpetually dragged through house.

They said they'd sort the drainage problem by digging in course sand.
However, I read somewhere that this would only serve to turn the clay to
a cement. It suggested that loam would also need to be incorporated
with the sand.

Can anyone advise on this?

The other matter is that they say they can't do that work just now as
it's a job for the Spring. Problem I see is that I will want it ready
for planting in Spring and given the lack of speed with which they work,
they could well call Summer, Spring. How early, ground being
sufficiently soft for digging of course, can I stipulate as a last date
for fixing.

I would have thought we'd want the last frosts to help break up the
earth to further help with drainage.

(Not really confident about using capitals at season names: dyslexia
rules KO!.)

All help on these matters gratefully received and much appreciated.

--
Me-G


My soil is heavy clay, too. I find the best remedies are masses of sharp
grit and composted bark. I avoid working the soil in winter or when it's
very wet, and avoid treading on it as much as possible at any time. For
plantings that require lighter soil and free-draining conditions, I tend to
use raised beds. Adding compost/soil conditioners are extremely good for
the soil, but they will disappear in the blinking of an eye. You will never
stop adding them.

I use a fork when breaking up the soil because I feel there is less strain
on my back. I tend to use my spade when I need to *move* soil, rather than
just turn and aerate it.

If your tradesmen were builders, they will probably have heaps of builders
sand and may want to use it. It is far too fine and soft to alleviate your
heavy and sticky clay soil. Sharp sand or, better still, sharp grit (not
smoother gravel) will, in quantity, open up the claggy texture of your soil
much better. Because sand and grit will not add nutrients, you will also
need to add lots of manure (if you can get it) and bulky compost.


In a small garden it might be worth considering vermiculite. £8 per 100L
for the coarse stuff and, once incorporated, it should prevent the clay
getting compressed again

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news:chF9n.34284 Can anyone advise on this?



Do we not know how to 'snip'?

--
Mike

The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association
www.rneba.org.uk
Luxury Self Catering on the Isle of Wight?
www.shanklinmanormews.co.uk

'Mike' wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news:chF9n.34284 Can anyone advise on this?


Do we not know how to 'snip'?


Something one has to tolerate, along with advertisements posing as
signatures.

Stuart Noble wrote:
'Mike' wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news:chF9n.34284 Can anyone advise on this?


Do we not know how to 'snip'?

Something one has to tolerate,

Why?

along with advertisements posing as
signatures.

Nothing wrong with that - as long as they're not too prominent.

--
Rusty