small chain saw
On Feb 22, 10:21*pm, "MuddyMike" wrote:
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... In article , writes I take your point about the length of time involved - I had to guess at how wide and packed those piles were and may have guessed wrong. *But I can assure you that it is NOT as much faster to use a chainsaw than it appears, if you are inexperienced or weakish (as I am), because you dare not get even slightly tired when using a chainsaw. Oh right, well thank you for your answers i take your points very seriously. Wouldn't use anything if i didn't think i was competent which is one reason why i don't like the long armed hedge cutters. They are balanced for people much taller than 5' 4" :) A friend has something called an alligator which might be useful if they can find it in their garage ! It's kind of like two sets of teeth that you clamp round and cut medium thick stuff -- I have just recently replaced a rather old B&Q electric chainsaw with an Aldi cheapy. It came with 3 years warranty so if it only lasts that long its well worth the money. It says Oregon on the bar, but otherwise is of unknown brand yet is far more advanced than my old one. It has "no tools required" chain adjustment, a kick back safety brake, and the chain stops almost immediately when I let go of the trigger despite the motor still turning. I used it for the first time last weekend to cut up a telegraph pole and a dead 6ft tall 12" dia yew trunk. It cut both with absolute ease. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - My neighbour who is in his early 80's burns nothing but wood and has for several years used an old Black and Decker chain saw which has now given up the ghost, He has had 2 of the Liddle/aldi chain saws for cutting up the trunks but always used the B & D for branches and thiner stuff ar it could be used one handed, after around 4 months he is still trying to find a replacement, |
small chain saw
On Feb 22, 7:33*pm, Another John wrote:
In article , *Farmer Giles wrote: ...I would add one important point on safety, if I may, and that is to check the chain tension regularly and adjust if loose. A badly tensioned chain is a definite safety hazard. Very good point! *This is very easily checked, and corrected, on mine: I check it constantly whilst sawing, and occasionally have to correct it. John The Bosch electricsaw has a chain tension adjuster that needs no tools, Takes seconds. Don't forget to buy chain oil. (And keep the saw topped up) |
small chain saw
On 02/22/2012 11:21 PM, MuddyMike wrote:
[] I have just recently replaced a rather old B&Q electric chainsaw with an Aldi cheapy. It came with 3 years warranty so if it only lasts that long its well worth the money. It says Oregon on the bar, but otherwise is of unknown brand yet is far more advanced than my old one. It has "no tools required" chain adjustment, a kick back safety brake, and the chain stops almost immediately when I let go of the trigger despite the motor still turning. I used it for the first time last weekend to cut up a telegraph pole and a dead 6ft tall 12" dia yew trunk. It cut both with absolute ease. Oregon makes good chains. I have one for the Stihl. |
small chain saw
On 02/22/2012 10:08 PM, Janet Tweedy wrote:
In article , Another John writes I agree, if you're pruning trees Emery. However as she has said, Janet is faced with a large piles of logs to saw up into foot-lengths. Actually they are less like logs and more like thickish branches with the twigs still on in places!! Bear in mind if you go with the electric saw, every time the chain touches earth it will get dull, right quickly. De-twigging this sort of wood is time consuming, too. I find the chainsawing hard work whether high or low; but I've never had an electric one as my cutting is rarely near mains. I guess the weight difference would be considerable. In my case (sight unseen mind) I'd be happier getting most of it out with the bowsaw. -E |
small chain saw
"Emery Davis" wrote in message ... Bear in mind if you go with the electric saw, every time the chain touches earth it will get dull, right quickly. Any chainsaw hitting earth, stones or other very hard object will dull very quickly. De-twigging this sort of wood is time consuming, too. I find the chainsawing hard work whether high or low; but I've never had an electric one as my cutting is rarely near mains. I guess the weight difference would be considerable. In my case (sight unseen mind) I'd be happier getting most of it out with the bowsaw. Chainsaws should NOT/ be used above shoulder height in case of kick-back. As for weight difference, there is hardly any difference in weight between a 16" petrol Chaisaw and an electric one. The lack of wieight of the engine in an electric one is made up by the weight of the electric motor. The main cons are The need to obtain and store petrol in the case of a petrol saw The need to be fairly close to an electrical supply for an electric saw. Bill Bill |
small chain saw
Janet Tweedy wrote in news:yKKqeJGLbSRPFwI4
@lancedal.demon.co.uk: In article , Dave Hill writes I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. Oh yes mine is also Sandvik, good quality as you say. Still takes forever to cut through an old wooden cot someone gave me to use on the fire!! Janet, as a carpenter and joiner I can say yes Sandvik saws are among the best, along with Spear & Jackson and Disston(American not Canadian), but they all come in differing quality and therefore price. They all did a full range from handyman to pro. £ to ££ to £££ etc. The snag is that like all saws(hand, electric or petrol/diesal) they go blunt and need sharpening and it sounds to me that your Sandvik needs sharpening. The only exception IMO are the hardpoint(disposable). They cannot be sharpened without losing their tempered cutting edge, rendering them useless afterwards. But they are the choice of todays Joiners who earn £20 per hour and can not afford to set and sharpen a saw because it takes too long when a Bacho disposable costs £7 trade, and stays sharp for a very long time as opposed to "non-hardpoint" which would dull after an hour or two of intensive sawing. Hope this helps Baz |
small chain saw
On 02/23/2012 12:25 PM, Bill Grey wrote:
"Emery Davis" wrote in message ... Bear in mind if you go with the electric saw, every time the chain touches earth it will get dull, right quickly. Any chainsaw hitting earth, stones or other very hard object will dull very quickly. Well yes, of course I wasn't suggesting it was any different for a petrol saw! [] Chainsaws should NOT/ be used above shoulder height in case of kick-back. Tell it to a tree surgeon! But you're right in principal of course. As for weight difference, there is hardly any difference in weight between a 16" petrol Chaisaw and an electric one. The lack of wieight of the engine in an electric one is made up by the weight of the electric motor. As I said I never use an electric chainsaw. But I do have an electric hedge cutter, and it's much lighter than the equivalent-sized petrol one I sometimes borrow. The main cons are The need to obtain and store petrol in the case of a petrol saw The need to be fairly close to an electrical supply for an electric saw. I find with the hedge cutter I worry about keeping the cable out of the way, also. |
small chain saw
On Feb 22, 8:38*pm, "Bill Grey" wrote:
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Grey writes There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I do not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however small. I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use of chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and surprisingly easy to incur. As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day course to learn how to use one simply. However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and involved learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power tools as well!! They also cost umpteen amounts of money .......... Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk I can see there would be a problem with a full 9 yards course, not really necessary for us gardeners. A basic "how to use" and safety course would be fine. Bill The agricultural training board used to do a very good two day course. First day on maintenance and safety, second day ctting down trees and cutting them up. Jonathan |
small chain saw
On Feb 23, 5:34*pm, Jonathan wrote:
On Feb 22, 8:38*pm, "Bill Grey" wrote: "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Grey writes There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use.. I do not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however small. I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use of chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and surprisingly easy to incur. As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day course to learn how to use one simply. However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and involved learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power tools as well!! They also cost umpteen amounts of money .......... Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk I can see there would be a problem with a full 9 yards course, not really necessary for us gardeners. A basic "how to use" and safety course would be fine. Bill The agricultural training board used to do a very good two day course. First day on maintenance and safety, second day ctting down trees and cutting them up. Jonathan- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - One advantage of an electric chain saw is that when you take your finger of the trigget the motor stops, and when you want to make the next cut you just pick it up and press the trigger again, no having to either leave the thing running or having to start it again. |
small chain saw
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- If you live on your own, think carefully about using a chainsaw. If it slips there is no-one there to save you. I have a woodburner and have wood to saw but since I was widowed I daren't risk it. Some of the heavier duty electric saws (not chainsaws) can cope with branches and are much safer, although it depends on the diameter of them, obviously. If you want to use a chainsaw, make sure someone else is there. I can use a bowsaw but, as you say, it's tiring. I'm thinking of paying someone to come and do it. Tina |
small chain saw
"Emery Davis" wrote in message ... On 02/23/2012 12:25 PM, Bill Grey wrote: "Emery Davis" wrote in message ... Chainsaws should NOT/ be used above shoulder height in case of kick-back. Tell it to a tree surgeon! But you're right in principal of course. Complacency rules maybe! Bill |
small chain saw
"Jonathan" wrote in message ... On Feb 22, 8:38 pm, "Bill Grey" wrote: "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... In article , Bill Grey writes There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I do not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however small. I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use of chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and surprisingly easy to incur. As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day course to learn how to use one simply. However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and involved learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power tools as well!! They also cost umpteen amounts of money .......... Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk I can see there would be a problem with a full 9 yards course, not really necessary for us gardeners. A basic "how to use" and safety course would be fine. Bill The agricultural training board used to do a very good two day course. First day on maintenance and safety, second day ctting down trees and cutting them up. Jonathan That's Health and Safety at work - think insurance claims and it all makes sense. We are not talking agricultural tree felling in this thread. Bill |
small chain saw
"Christina Websell" wrote in message ... "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... If you want to use a chainsaw, make sure someone else is there. I can use a bowsaw but, as you say, it's tiring. I'm thinking of paying someone to come and do it. Tina Sound advice! Take heed. Bill |
small chain saw
http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/2006...igator-po.html
"Bill Grey" wrote in message ... "Christina Websell" wrote in message ... "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... If you want to use a chainsaw, make sure someone else is there. I can use a bowsaw but, as you say, it's tiring. I'm thinking of paying someone to come and do it. Tina Sound advice! Take heed. Bill |
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