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small chain saw
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy |
small chain saw
In article ,
Janet Tweedy wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. Admittedly, using one for straight, simple lengths on a sawhorse is by FAR the safest way of using one. I probably still have the strength to do that (just), but have no difficulty using a bowsaw. How big is your bowsaw, and how new the blade? Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
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small chain saw
On Feb 21, 6:03*pm, Janet Tweedy wrote:
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy An electric chainsaw is lighter than petrol and a lot less trouble. You can get quite a small one. However it needs maintenance every few hours,chain sharpened and retensioned etc & you really need some training/advice/demonstration. They are a deadly bit of kit, so easy to have a serious accident. |
small chain saw
On Feb 21, 6:03*pm, Janet Tweedy wrote:
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy The Ryobi and Bosch stuff is pretty good BTW. Avoid B&D |
small chain saw
Janet Tweedy wrote:
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! Have you looked at electric saws? With the right blade i've found them useful for firewood... L |
small chain saw
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small chain saw
In article ,
Another John wrote: You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. With all due respect: rubbish! Using a bowsaw utilises different muscles for a start. Sigh. Even if you didn't need the same muscles to control a chainsaw SAFELY, it is EXTREMELY rare to have a few arm muscles very weak and the rest quite strong. What I said is correct, unfortunately :-( But the main point is _time_ (as well as muscle power): ... That is a completely separate matter. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:03:58 +0000, Janet Tweedy
wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! There's too much to go wrong. IME, chainsaw blades stretch and blunt quickly. Sharpening them is a right PITA - maybe a good occupation during an Alaskan winter - and replacing them is expensive. Get a good bow saw, a spare blade or so, a good hard file and a saw set. I'm sure that there are saw doctor videos on U-Tube. Regards JonH |
small chain saw
In article ,
wrote: On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:03:58 +0000, Janet Tweedy wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! There's too much to go wrong. IME, chainsaw blades stretch and blunt quickly. Sharpening them is a right PITA - maybe a good occupation during an Alaskan winter - and replacing them is expensive. Get a good bow saw, a spare blade or so, a good hard file and a saw set. I'm sure that there are saw doctor videos on U-Tube. There are, but modern bowsaw blades are highly hardened, keep their edge for a long time, and are not intended to be resharpened or reset. You just replace them, which doesn't cost a fortune. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
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small chain saw
On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:03:58 +0000, Janet Tweedy
wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! Reading all the replies leads me to suggest what I've suggested to others before. OTOH, I have a small electric chainsaw somewhere up in the attic and will happily despatch it to you if/when I can find it. The only requirement apart from sharpening blades is a copious supply of vegetable oil as lubrication. I will mention that as a chainsaw it was crap. Anyhow, the advice I've given others (and those who have followed have thanked me) is to fork out for one of those multi-tools. For about £170 you get a pole pruner (chainsaw sort of thing), hedge trimmer, brush cutter and strimmer. For your log cutting use, you'll be far enough away from the logs to avoid personal damage. You just let the"pruner" attachment lie on the log. It'll cut through it and all you need to worry about is stopping it from falling when it reaches the other side. And it will make the lopping off of branches from the trees easier in the first place. I've cut down a tree with a 14 inch trunk with a pruner - just cut from both sides. They're lovely little tools. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling happily from the dryer end of Swansea Bay. I'm having a panic - noticed some water in the pond in between the frog spawn. |
small chain saw
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small chain saw
On Feb 21, 6:03*pm, Janet Tweedy wrote:
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy I have a Makita DCS3501 35cm petrol chainsaw. £239.99 from http://www.angliatoolcentre.co.uk/ma...aw-bid490.html If you can get away with an electric one it is cheaper by far. I wholeheartedly recommend this chainsaw as well priced and lightweight. It replaced a heavy, poor quality B&Q one. I have an electric chain sharpener that makes light work of sharpening. I have always found Makita tools to be reliable and spares easy to get when required. Cheers, Comp-in-Caithness |
small chain saw
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy Take a look at the Bosch electric saws, don't get a petrol one it will be too heavy, something with a shortish blade should be fine. I tend to work over the branches with loppers first then zick up the last bits with the chain saw. -- Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella and Lapageria rosea cvs http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk |
small chain saw
Janet Tweedy wrote in news:00qLR1AOy9QPFwS2
@lancedal.demon.co.uk: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! To answer your question JT, I would go for an electric one and not petrol. You can find them at DIY stores, that will fill your need. Always remember that you cannot cut logs safely on your own because the operator needs 2 hands on the saw. You can upgrade to petrol/diesal when you feel ok with it. Just don't try to do it on your own. Baz |
small chain saw
harry wrote in news:314e7fca-07ae-42b1-ada6-
: They are a deadly bit of kit, so easy to have a serious accident. Correct. Baz |
small chain saw
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I do not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however small. I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use of chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and surprisingly easy to incur. Bill |
small chain saw
wrote in message ... In article , Another John wrote: You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. With all due respect: rubbish! Using a bowsaw utilises different muscles for a start. Sigh. Even if you didn't need the same muscles to control a chainsaw SAFELY, it is EXTREMELY rare to have a few arm muscles very weak and the rest quite strong. What I said is correct, unfortunately :-( But the main point is _time_ (as well as muscle power): ... That is a completely separate matter. .....and the maxim should be "let the saw do the work" - bow saw that is. Bill Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
On Feb 22, 12:13*pm, Baz wrote:
Janet Tweedy wrote in news:00qLR1AOy9QPFwS2 @lancedal.demon.co.uk: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! To answer your question JT, I would go for an electric one and not petrol.. You can find them at DIY stores, that will fill your need. Always remember that you cannot cut logs safely on your own because the operator needs 2 hands on the saw. You can upgrade to petrol/diesal when you feel ok with it. Just don't try to do it on your own. Baz I wouls say try a Good hand saw first, I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. I'd lash out around £15.00 for one of their smaller bow saws (Some good offers on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&k...71baf7o4 os_b before buying a chain saw. Sandvik were always the Profesional saw. David @ the wet end of Swansea Bay. |
small chain saw
"harry" wrote in message ... On Feb 21, 6:03 pm, Janet Tweedy wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! -- Janet Tweedy An electric chainsaw is lighter than petrol and a lot less trouble. You can get quite a small one. However it needs maintenance every few hours,chain sharpened and retensioned etc & you really need some training/advice/demonstration. They are a deadly bit of kit, so easy to have a serious accident. ......and as you say, one needs to be taught how to sharpen the chain teeth properly. Bill |
small chain saw
In article ,
Dave Hill wrote: I wouls say try a Good hand saw first, I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. Yes, but that's the blades you are talking about, and they will fit almost all bowsaws. I agree about them, incidentally. I'd lash out around =A315.00 for one of their smaller bow saws (Some good offers on Amazon I wouldn't. I would get the largest you are comfortable handling, as the effort goes down disproportionately with length. I use a 30", and would buy a 36" if I had much sawing to do. My experience of 24" saws is that they are twice as tiring to use as a 30" on anything above 6" diameter. Bull Grey's posting is the point - the effort comes in changing direction (and, worse, bumping into the end). You get a lot more cut per movement with a longer saw. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
On 21/02/2012 18:03, Janet Tweedy wrote:
Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! An electric chainsaw would be the better bet for what you want. Although, as others have said, chainsaws are hazardous tools at best and require a fair bit of maintenance - but less so with an electric one. I use both types quite a lot, and I can tell you that using any type of chainsaw for a spell is fairly tiring too. So, unless you have a large amount of logs to saw, a good (and sharp) bow saw has many advantages. |
small chain saw
In article , Moonraker
writes He then sawed them by hand and split them with chisels and a sledge hammer. He said it was great, as the wood provided heat twice, once in preparation and second in burning them I've got a grenade and a Swedish maule which works well on rounds but if I don't chop and move this lot soon the grass will be growing and turning yellow!! -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article
, Another John writes I bought a Bosch electric chainsaw about 5 years ago (I've had three new saw-chains). It's saved me man-day's of work, and is a joy to use -- it's in the top 5 of my Top Ten Tools. Oh sounds good, which model? -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article ,
Janet Tweedy wrote: You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. Oh I can saw well enough but currently i have three 4ft high piles of very large logs in the garden from an oak, a mulberry an apple and a silver Birch and the thought of sawing by hand, umpteen logs is a bit daunting timewise, I need to cut them to about 12 inches long. It looks soooo much easier slicing through them with an saw. Too thick for my stihl hedgecutter though. Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12" in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). And no plausible hedgecutter will even approach that! Once something gets above that, it's worth paying someone to do it, even if you have a chainsaw, as it needs more than ordinary skills. If most of those branches are 6-9", I would guess 3 days of 4 hours each (with breaks to do other things) for a decent bowsaw, but probably still 3 days and over half the time for an inexperienced chainsaw user. Remember that, if you get even slightly tired, a chainsaw changes from dangerous to lethal. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
In article , writes
But the main point is _time_ (as well as muscle power): ... That is a completely separate matter. I take your point Nick, but it is the sheer amount of time rather than not being able to physically saw the stuff. Got a large bow saw and whatever you call the ones with the thin blade that you have to squash the metal arms together to fit a new blade but sawing for the best part of three hours and finding the pile not much smaller is a bit off putting! Mind you I did see someone make an excellent hedge last week putting in four staves (2 forward 2 back)and then laying the straighter branches between the staves. Might try that to deter the deer! The mulberry offcuts would be excellent for that. The hazel i intend to burn. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article , writes
Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12" in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). No, 12 inches LONG Nick! Not diameter :) How would you cut them to a diameter of 12 inches? I can split them easy enough if I wanted to at that size! I sued to get rounds from the local council from the park dept and used a grenade and a Swedish maule. My log fire can take up to 15 inches long logs -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article ,
Janet Tweedy wrote: Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12" in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). No, 12 inches LONG Nick! Not diameter :) How would you cut them to a diameter of 12 inches? I can split them easy enough if I wanted to at that size! I sued to get rounds from the local council from the park dept and used a grenade and a Swedish maule. What I meant was that it becomes infeasible to use a non-specialist aw for anything of above 12" diameter, and it is definitely harder above 9". That applies to both bowsaws and chainsaws, though the effects of increased difficulty are different. I take your point about the length of time involved - I had to guess at how wide and packed those piles were and may have guessed wrong. But I can assure you that it is NOT as much faster to use a chainsaw than it appears, if you are inexperienced or weakish (as I am), because you dare not get even slightly tired when using a chainsaw. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
small chain saw
wrote in message ... In article , Dave Hill wrote: I wouls say try a Good hand saw first, I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. Yes, but that's the blades you are talking about, and they will fit almost all bowsaws. I agree about them, incidentally. I'd lash out around =A315.00 for one of their smaller bow saws (Some good offers on Amazon I wouldn't. I would get the largest you are comfortable handling, as the effort goes down disproportionately with length. I use a 30", and would buy a 36" if I had much sawing to do. My experience of 24" saws is that they are twice as tiring to use as a 30" on anything above 6" diameter. Bull Grey's posting is the point - the effort comes in changing direction (and, worse, bumping into the end). You get a lot more cut per movement with a longer saw. Regards, Nick Maclaren. You and I are very close in this - also on the typewriter :-) Bill |
small chain saw
"Farmer Giles" wrote in message o.uk... On 21/02/2012 18:03, Janet Tweedy wrote: Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not exhausting!! An electric chainsaw would be the better bet for what you want. Although, as others have said, chainsaws are hazardous tools at best and require a fair bit of maintenance - but less so with an electric one. I use both types quite a lot, and I can tell you that using any type of chainsaw for a spell is fairly tiring too. So, unless you have a large amount of logs to saw, a good (and sharp) bow saw has many advantages. If your intended use is near a convenient electrical mains supply then go foc an electric chainsaw - so much less fuss than getting and storing petrol. I cut down 9 x 30' high Cupressus leylandii(sp) and cut them up with my electric chain saw. The required length of cable in my case was a bit of a chore, but should be OK for your case from what you say. Bill ill |
small chain saw
In article , writes
I take your point about the length of time involved - I had to guess at how wide and packed those piles were and may have guessed wrong. But I can assure you that it is NOT as much faster to use a chainsaw than it appears, if you are inexperienced or weakish (as I am), because you dare not get even slightly tired when using a chainsaw. Oh right, well thank you for your answers i take your points very seriously. Wouldn't use anything if i didn't think i was competent which is one reason why i don't like the long armed hedge cutters. They are balanced for people much taller than 5' 4" :) A friend has something called an alligator which might be useful if they can find it in their garage ! It's kind of like two sets of teeth that you clamp round and cut medium thick stuff -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article , Jake
writes For about £170 you get a pole pruner (chainsaw sort of thing), hedge trimmer, brush cutter and strimmer. But from what I've seen and tried not much quality at that price. I liked the stihl version of that but they were several times more expensive and justifiably so. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article
, Dave Hill writes I've always gone for Sandvik they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter, but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco. Oh yes mine is also Sandvik, good quality as you say. Still takes forever to cut through an old wooden cot someone gave me to use on the fire!! -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
In article , Bill Grey
writes There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I do not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however small. I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use of chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and surprisingly easy to incur. As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day course to learn how to use one simply. However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and involved learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power tools as well!! They also cost umpteen amounts of money .......... Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
small chain saw
On Feb 22, 1:13*pm, Janet Tweedy wrote:
In article , writes You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. Oh I can saw well enough but currently i have three 4ft high piles of very large logs in the garden from an oak, a mulberry an apple and a silver Birch and the thought of sawing by hand, umpteen logs is a bit daunting timewise, I need to cut them to about 12 inches long. It looks soooo much easier slicing through them with an saw. Too thick for my stihl hedgecutter though. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraphhttp://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk You'll be fine with an electric chainsaw, Not B&D but most of the others mentioned + Makita are good. Sharpening isn't rocket science - just read the instruction booklet and practice. Time spent sharpening is never wasted, you can waste no end of time cutting with a dull chain. I think by now you're grown up enough to read safety instructions and see the potential for serious damage. It's been a long time since I used an electric saw so I don't know if they are fitted with chain brakes as all petrol saws are. If that is the case don't buy one without - even a little saw can kick back and do serious damage and the brake lessens the risk of injury. Rod |
small chain saw
On 22/02/2012 18:19, Rod wrote:
On Feb 22, 1:13 pm, Janet wrote: In , writes You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely. Oh I can saw well enough but currently i have three 4ft high piles of very large logs in the garden from an oak, a mulberry an apple and a silver Birch and the thought of sawing by hand, umpteen logs is a bit daunting timewise, I need to cut them to about 12 inches long. It looks soooo much easier slicing through them with an saw. Too thick for my stihl hedgecutter though. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraphhttp://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk You'll be fine with an electric chainsaw, Not B&D but most of the others mentioned + Makita are good. Sharpening isn't rocket science - just read the instruction booklet and practice. Time spent sharpening is never wasted, you can waste no end of time cutting with a dull chain. I think by now you're grown up enough to read safety instructions and see the potential for serious damage. It's been a long time since I used an electric saw so I don't know if they are fitted with chain brakes as all petrol saws are. If that is the case don't buy one without - even a little saw can kick back and do serious damage and the brake lessens the risk of injury. Fairly sound advice (and all the electric saws I have seen and used have chain brakes). I would add one important point on safety, if I may, and that is to check the chain tension regularly and adjust if loose. A badly tensioned chain is a definite safety hazard. |
small chain saw
Nick said:
Sigh. Even if you didn't need the same muscles to control a chainsaw SAFELY, it is EXTREMELY rare to have a few arm muscles very weak and the rest quite strong. What I said is correct, unfortunately :-( Well Nick I sympathise, but I disagree. I've been cutting wood up data protection alert for 40 years now. The chainsaw is heavier to pick up than the bowsaw, but by golly it's easier to use! Different physiques .... or perhaps you know something which I have yet to find out, further down the line. :-( And Emery said... I'm with Nick on this one. Chainsawing is plain hard work. For tree pruning I get a better cut, and a safer one, with a bowsaw. ..... etc. I agree, if you're pruning trees Emery. However as she has said, Janet is faced with a large piles of logs to saw up into foot-lengths. Furthermore, although several people have mentioned petrol saws, the main recommendation is for an electric one -- which is lighter, far, *far* easier to use, and less intimidating than a petrol one. And finally, in answer to Janet's most recent question: my own saw is a Bosch AKE 35 S, which I think cost me about £70 about 5 years ago, at B and Q (where of course I was able to have a good look at it before buying). I see they don't make this model any more (surprise), but pop into B&Q and see what they have - be careful to buy a make approved by this group though! Finally finally: I bought one because my mate had raved about his: he lent me it, and (having used a petrol saw before) I was sold within 20 seconds! John |
small chain saw
In article ,
Farmer Giles wrote: ...I would add one important point on safety, if I may, and that is to check the chain tension regularly and adjust if loose. A badly tensioned chain is a definite safety hazard. Very good point! This is very easily checked, and corrected, on mine: I check it constantly whilst sawing, and occasionally have to correct it. John |
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