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no dig ground elder eradication?
i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours.
can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? |
no dig ground elder eradication?
On 13/04/2012 11:28, rockitdog wrote:
i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours. can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. Yes. They do but to be effective you have to slightly *over* dilute and wait longer for it to translocate into the roots and then repeat ad naseam. You can hit ground elder whenever you have any weedkiller going at all. I use broadleaf lawn weedkiller on mine about half the time. If you want it dead you have to keep at it. Never let it have a green leaf in the sunshine that hasn't been sprayed for more than a week. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? Hit it with glyphosate about now and wait three-four weeks then repeat. Maybe alternate with Verdone or something similar. Hit new shoots in the interim as they come up with a smaller spot weed sprayer. It is faster if you combine chemical means with physical removal of the roots. After a couple of glyphosate hits the root fragments seldom grow back again if you miss a small piece. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
no dig ground elder eradication?
On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog
wrote: i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours. can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it. IME this is the way to go if you are using a pure glyphosate solution but when I've used Roundup (which contains more than just glyphosate) I've found it better to apply on a sunny day when I'll see results before I go to bed that night! Pure glyphosate, though, needs time to work - it will go down to the roots and kill the plant from there up so don't worry if nothing seems to happen for a week or two. You'll know, I'm sure, that you need to keep your dogs off the garden until the weed killer has completely dried. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green east end of Swansea Bay. |
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no dig ground elder eradication?
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no dig ground elder eradication?
On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 19:23:50 +0100, Janet wrote:
In article , says... On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog wrote: i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours. can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it. IIRC there is a (lower) temperature limit below which it won't be effective. Check the instructions. Janet You are correct, Janet, but I didn't think that was a likely issue now. FWIW, the temperature range in which glyphosate is most effective is, AFAIK, 60-85F. I've also dug something out which recommends that if you are using Roundup as opposed to the pure stuff (the added ingredients seem to be intended to reduce the size of droplets to minimise run-off) the best time is between 10.00 am and 4.00 pm. Glyphosate is also less effective in drought conditions. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green east end of Swansea Bay. |
no dig ground elder eradication?
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no dig ground elder eradication?
On Apr 13, 11:28*am, rockitdog
wrote: i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours. can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch. But there are many inadequate ones on the market NT |
no dig ground elder eradication?
Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch. You mean a blow job surely |
no dig ground elder eradication?
On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 10:40:29 +0100, stuart noble
wrote: Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch. You mean a blow job surely Either approach will only work on the accessible growth and the OP will need to repeat the blowing immediately the slightest bit of regrowth is observed - if this is done continually then, eventually, what's below will run out of steam and shrivel up. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green east end of Swansea Bay. |
no dig ground elder eradication?
"Jake" wrote in message ... On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 10:40:29 +0100, stuart noble wrote: Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch. You mean a blow job surely Either approach will only work on the accessible growth and the OP will need to repeat the blowing immediately the slightest bit of regrowth is observed - if this is done continually then, eventually, what's below will run out of steam and shrivel up. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green east end of Swansea Bay. ;-( ;-) Mike -- .................................... I'm an Angel, honest ! The horns are there just to keep the halo straight. .................................... |
no dig ground elder eradication?
On 13/04/2012 16:33, Jake wrote:
On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog wrote: i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours. can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it. IME this is the way to go if you are using a pure glyphosate solution but when I've used Roundup (which contains more than just glyphosate) I've found it better to apply on a sunny day when I'll see results before I go to bed that night! Pure glyphosate, though, needs time to work - it will go down to the roots and kill the plant from there up so don't worry if nothing seems to happen for a week or two. There are too many "Roundups" now and not all of them are pure glyphosate. I object strenuously to Monsanto's extremely cavalier attitude to GM crops and have always used generic products. You really should not see much difference in glyphosate treated plants until nearly two weeks after application when things start to go wrong at the growing tip with yellowing. They are usually tinder dry after 4-5 weeks unless they are very waxy or parlty resistant. Ivy, holly seedlings and for some odd reason buttercup survive glyphosate scorched earth policy. You'll know, I'm sure, that you need to keep your dogs off the garden until the weed killer has completely dried. Indeed. Grass can be exquisitely sensitive to glyphosate so be careful where you walk with weedkiller overspray on your boots. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
no dig ground elder eradication?
On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 16:00:30 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote: There are too many "Roundups" now and not all of them are pure glyphosate. I object strenuously to Monsanto's extremely cavalier attitude to GM crops and have always used generic products. AFAIK there is no "Roundup" that is pure glyphosate. With the generic product (Bayer) you know exactly what you're getting. I believe that the essential difference with Roundup is the chemicals that minimise run-off. There is a lot of research that indicates that those chemicals are worse than glyphosate itself - hence the bad press that glyphosate often gets by association. I use Roundup only very occasionally when I particularly (REALLY particularly) want a quick result. I'm not saying that glyphosate is without its own issues, of course, as no chemical will be. However used responsibly it does the job it's designed to do with minimal environmental impact. I do have some issues with the domestic version of Roundup but the "agricultural" equivalent should have been banned years ago. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green east end of Swansea Bay. |
no dig ground elder eradication?
"rockitdog" wrote in message ... i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours. can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it. if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh. i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice? The only I did was to pick out every little bit, every root over some time, and it worked. It took ages, but I have no ground elder now. |
no dig ground elder eradication?
On 14/04/2012 16:57, Jake wrote:
On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 16:00:30 +0100, Martin Brown wrote: There are too many "Roundups" now and not all of them are pure glyphosate. I object strenuously to Monsanto's extremely cavalier attitude to GM crops and have always used generic products. AFAIK there is no "Roundup" that is pure glyphosate. With the generic product (Bayer) you know exactly what you're getting. I believe that the essential difference with Roundup is the chemicals that minimise run-off. There is a lot of research that indicates that those chemicals are worse than glyphosate itself - hence the bad press that glyphosate often gets by association. I use Roundup only very occasionally when I particularly (REALLY particularly) want a quick result. You have failed to understand the chemistry of practical weedkiller formulations. All of them *even* the generics contain powerful wetting agents that are all more dangerous than the active ingredient. I use Bayers product and the domestic one is something like an aqueous solution of 10% glyphosate and 3% Ethoxylated tallow alkyl amines. The latter being the more dangerous aggressive wetting agent. I'm not saying that glyphosate is without its own issues, of course, as no chemical will be. However used responsibly it does the job it's designed to do with minimal environmental impact. I do have some issues with the domestic version of Roundup but the "agricultural" equivalent should have been banned years ago. "Roundup(TM)" now covers a multitude of sins with not all of them having only glyphosate as the active weedkiller ingredient. Some mixes sold to home users seem to have a rapid kill component as well. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
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