i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung... anyone got any helpfull advice?

On 13/04/2012 11:28, rockitdog wrote:
i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

Yes. They do but to be effective you have to slightly *over* dilute and
wait longer for it to translocate into the roots and then repeat ad
naseam. You can hit ground elder whenever you have any weedkiller going
at all. I use broadleaf lawn weedkiller on mine about half the time.

If you want it dead you have to keep at it. Never let it have a green
leaf in the sunshine that hasn't been sprayed for more than a week.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Hit it with glyphosate about now and wait three-four weeks then repeat.
Maybe alternate with Verdone or something similar. Hit new shoots in the
interim as they come up with a smaller spot weed sprayer.

It is faster if you combine chemical means with physical removal of the
roots. After a couple of glyphosate hits the root fragments seldom grow
back again if you miss a small piece.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog
wrote:


i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you
need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people
recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the
plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it. IME
this is the way to go if you are using a pure glyphosate solution but
when I've used Roundup (which contains more than just glyphosate) I've
found it better to apply on a sunny day when I'll see results before I
go to bed that night! Pure glyphosate, though, needs time to work - it
will go down to the roots and kill the plant from there up so don't
worry if nothing seems to happen for a week or two.

You'll know, I'm sure, that you need to keep your dogs off the garden
until the weed killer has completely dried.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green
east end of Swansea Bay.

When you say "glyphosate doesn't touch it" - what exactly did you do? Did you apply at the recommended strength or stronger? How long did you leave it before deciding it hadn't worked? What time of year did you apply it?

In article ,
lid says...

On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog
wrote:


i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you
need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people
recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the
plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it.

IIRC there is a (lower) temperature limit below which it won't be
effective. Check the instructions.

Janet

On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 19:23:50 +0100, Janet wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog
wrote:


i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you
need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people
recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the
plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it.

IIRC there is a (lower) temperature limit below which it won't be
effective. Check the instructions.

Janet

You are correct, Janet, but I didn't think that was a likely issue
now. FWIW, the temperature range in which glyphosate is most effective
is, AFAIK, 60-85F. I've also dug something out which recommends that
if you are using Roundup as opposed to the pure stuff (the added
ingredients seem to be intended to reduce the size of droplets to
minimise run-off) the best time is between 10.00 am and 4.00 pm.
Glyphosate is also less effective in drought conditions.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green
east end of Swansea Bay.

In article ,
lid says...

On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 19:23:50 +0100, Janet wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog
wrote:


i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you
need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people
recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the
plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it.

IIRC there is a (lower) temperature limit below which it won't be
effective. Check the instructions.

Janet

You are correct, Janet, but I didn't think that was a likely issue
now. FWIW, the temperature range in which glyphosate is most effective
is, AFAIK, 60-85F.

Well, "check the instructions" was meant for the OP not you:-) He said
he'd tried glyphosate and it had no effect; I wondered if that was because
he was too quick off the mark in cold weather.

Janet

On Apr 13, 11:28*am, rockitdog
wrote:
i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch. But there are many
inadequate ones on the market


NT

Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch.

You mean a blow job surely

On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 10:40:29 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:


Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch.

You mean a blow job surely

Either approach will only work on the accessible growth and the OP
will need to repeat the blowing immediately the slightest bit of
regrowth is observed - if this is done continually then, eventually,
what's below will run out of steam and shrivel up.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green
east end of Swansea Bay.

"Jake" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 10:40:29 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:


Another option with a bad shoulder is a blowtorch.

You mean a blow job surely

Either approach will only work on the accessible growth and the OP
will need to repeat the blowing immediately the slightest bit of
regrowth is observed - if this is done continually then, eventually,
what's below will run out of steam and shrivel up.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green
east end of Swansea Bay.


;-(

;-)

Mike


--

....................................

I'm an Angel, honest ! The horns are there just to keep the halo straight.

....................................

On 13/04/2012 16:33, Jake wrote:
On Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:28:06 +0000, rockitdog
wrote:


i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?

Glyphosate is usually pretty effective against ground elder though you
need to reapply every 4-6 weeks until growth stops. Some people
recommend applying in the evening as this gives more time for the
plants to absorb the weed killer before the sun evaporates it. IME
this is the way to go if you are using a pure glyphosate solution but
when I've used Roundup (which contains more than just glyphosate) I've
found it better to apply on a sunny day when I'll see results before I
go to bed that night! Pure glyphosate, though, needs time to work - it
will go down to the roots and kill the plant from there up so don't
worry if nothing seems to happen for a week or two.

There are too many "Roundups" now and not all of them are pure
glyphosate. I object strenuously to Monsanto's extremely cavalier
attitude to GM crops and have always used generic products.

You really should not see much difference in glyphosate treated plants
until nearly two weeks after application when things start to go wrong
at the growing tip with yellowing. They are usually tinder dry after 4-5
weeks unless they are very waxy or parlty resistant.

Ivy, holly seedlings and for some odd reason buttercup survive
glyphosate scorched earth policy.

You'll know, I'm sure, that you need to keep your dogs off the garden
until the weed killer has completely dried.

Indeed. Grass can be exquisitely sensitive to glyphosate so be careful
where you walk with weedkiller overspray on your boots.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 16:00:30 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote:

There are too many "Roundups" now and not all of them are pure
glyphosate. I object strenuously to Monsanto's extremely cavalier
attitude to GM crops and have always used generic products.

AFAIK there is no "Roundup" that is pure glyphosate. With the generic
product (Bayer) you know exactly what you're getting. I believe that
the essential difference with Roundup is the chemicals that minimise
run-off. There is a lot of research that indicates that those
chemicals are worse than glyphosate itself - hence the bad press that
glyphosate often gets by association. I use Roundup only very
occasionally when I particularly (REALLY particularly) want a quick
result.

I'm not saying that glyphosate is without its own issues, of course,
as no chemical will be. However used responsibly it does the job it's
designed to do with minimal environmental impact. I do have some
issues with the domestic version of Roundup but the "agricultural"
equivalent should have been banned years ago.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling from the sunny and refreshingly green
east end of Swansea Bay.

"rockitdog" wrote in message
...

i've had the dubious pleasure of renting a property that has a severe
ground elder problem (approx 4/5 of the garden completely covered) but i
suffer from 2 frozen shoulders, so digging is not recomended. i've also
got neighbours that are trying to sell their property so i don't want to
cover the garden with carpet as it's going to look really pikey and not
please my neighbours.

can i kill this horrible stuff with weedkiller alone? so far i've tried
SBK stump and root killer which seems to knock it back a little but
nowhere near enough, glycophosphates don't even touch it.

if it was my own place, i'd spend the cash on removing the whole garden
and starting afresh.

i know the best thing to do is move, but trying to find a rental
property that accepts pet dogs is like looking for rocking horse dung...
anyone got any helpfull advice?


The only I did was to pick out every little bit, every root over some time,
and it worked. It took ages, but I have no ground elder now.

On 14/04/2012 16:57, Jake wrote:
On Sat, 14 Apr 2012 16:00:30 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote:

There are too many "Roundups" now and not all of them are pure
glyphosate. I object strenuously to Monsanto's extremely cavalier
attitude to GM crops and have always used generic products.

AFAIK there is no "Roundup" that is pure glyphosate. With the generic
product (Bayer) you know exactly what you're getting. I believe that
the essential difference with Roundup is the chemicals that minimise
run-off. There is a lot of research that indicates that those
chemicals are worse than glyphosate itself - hence the bad press that
glyphosate often gets by association. I use Roundup only very
occasionally when I particularly (REALLY particularly) want a quick
result.

You have failed to understand the chemistry of practical weedkiller
formulations. All of them *even* the generics contain powerful wetting
agents that are all more dangerous than the active ingredient.

I use Bayers product and the domestic one is something like an aqueous
solution of 10% glyphosate and 3% Ethoxylated tallow alkyl amines. The
latter being the more dangerous aggressive wetting agent.

I'm not saying that glyphosate is without its own issues, of course,
as no chemical will be. However used responsibly it does the job it's
designed to do with minimal environmental impact. I do have some
issues with the domestic version of Roundup but the "agricultural"
equivalent should have been banned years ago.

"Roundup(TM)" now covers a multitude of sins with not all of them having
only glyphosate as the active weedkiller ingredient. Some mixes sold to
home users seem to have a rapid kill component as well.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown