Phalenopsis orchid
 

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around
March until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop
off. Pretty good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the
'hospital' window in the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day,
wondering if the stem was dying back, To my surprise and pleasure, one
withered flower was still clinging on but further up exactly the same
stem, new buds are forming. I've never seen this happen before on any
of my other Phals.
--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off. Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital' window in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem was dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You may find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 2014-08-23 11:31:26 +0000, Bob Hobden said:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around
March until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop
off. Pretty good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the
'hospital' window in the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day,
wondering if the stem was dying back, To my surprise and pleasure, one
withered flower was still clinging on but further up exactly the same
stem, new buds are forming. I've never seen this happen before on any
of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to
enable them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at
which the plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of
times. You may find the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes
before flowering, I think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

Thanks, Bob. I've only had the 'shrivel up' experience with the stems.
--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off. Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital' window in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem was dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You may find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 23/08/2014 16:29, Pam Moore wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off. Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital' window in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem was dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You may find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.




Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why orchids
are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness can also
have the same effect.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Pam Moore" wrote

"Bob Hobden" wrote:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off. Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital' window
in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem was
dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You may
find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.


Lots of reasons, too high a temperature, lack of water, combination of the
two etc.
Remember that whilst they have been domesticated of late it's not that many
decades ago they were considered difficult plants needing quite specialist
care. (£25 each was a normal price in the 1970s!)
If the flower spike is still green and healthy then the autumn fall in
temperature should initiate more flower buds to form.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Sacha" wrote

Bob Hobden said:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off.
Pretty good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital'
window in the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the
stem was dying back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower
was still clinging on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are
forming. I've never seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You may
find the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before
flowering, I think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

Thanks, Bob. I've only had the 'shrivel up' experience with the stems.


With me it's the opposite, I very rarely find the spike dies, in fact one of
mine has 5 green but flowerless spikes awaiting new flowers to form. It's a
yellow coloured one and I do find those the easiest to grow.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Spider" wrote in message ...


Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction. They
are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why orchids are
invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness can also have the
same effect.

I have 2 phals on an East facing window. Problem is, they both suffer from
excess growth on one side.

I've tried adjusting the thin support sticks (supplied) to get them more
upright but with little success.

Don't want to turn them around, as you say, for fear of buds and flower
loss.

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 2014-08-23 18:24:39 +0000, Spider said:

On 23/08/2014 16:29, Pam Moore wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off. Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital' window in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem was dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You may find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.




Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why
orchids are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness
can also have the same effect.

That's interesting, Spider. I bought one recently from Morrisons, a
double-stemmed one with flowers open and with buds. Three buds have
dropped off andI was about to write here, asking why! I assume there's
nothing I can do to prevent this?

--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 23/08/2014 23:44, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...


Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why
orchids are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness
can also have the same effect.

I have 2 phals on an East facing window. Problem is, they both suffer
from excess growth on one side.

I've tried adjusting the thin support sticks (supplied) to get them more
upright but with little success.

Don't want to turn them around, as you say, for fear of buds and flower
loss.





Once out of the bud stage, I turn mine very, very gradually, but only if
I feel they really need it. If you try this, make sure yours are
well-watered to lessen the chance of flower loss. I've never lost
flowers this way yet, but I am very cautious. Of course, you can always
wait until the flowers are over and then turn it round to balance up the
growth. If yours are very lop-sided, you may have to be patient and
wait until they're ready to be potted on, then simply set them as
upright as you can *without breaking roots*.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 07:39, Sacha wrote:
On 2014-08-23 18:24:39 +0000, Spider said:

On 23/08/2014 16:29, Pam Moore wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around
March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off.
Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital'
window in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem
was dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still
clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've
never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to
enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which
the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You
may find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.




Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why
orchids are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness
can also have the same effect.

That's interesting, Spider. I bought one recently from Morrisons, a
double-stemmed one with flowers open and with buds. Three buds have
dropped off andI was about to write here, asking why! I assume there's
nothing I can do to prevent this?




Yes, I've had that happen occasionally. When I get mine home, I look
closely to see which direction the buds are facing and try and mimic
that, so they don't have to 'travel' and dislocate themselves.
It's also possible that the supermarket has not kept up with the
watering, so check if yours needs a drink. The other possibility
(especially now that the weather is cooler and frosts are already
forecast in some areas) is that your Phal. suffered from a draught or
chill as you brought it home. Stores and gcs often put the pot in a
carrier bag, but I often take an extra bag and gently put it over the
head of the orchid until I get home. I get some odd looks at the till,
but I'm well beyond worrying about such things!

Of course, when you get home and your frozen peas thaw because you've
been tending your orchid, you'll just have to tell Ray plants have
priority (he'll understand that) and would he like pea soup for dinner?
(He may not understand that!):~))
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 23/08/2014 19:24, Spider wrote:
On 23/08/2014 16:29, Pam Moore wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote


I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.



Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why orchids
are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness can also
have the same effect.

Are you sure about the change in light direction causing bud drop,
Spider? A quick bit of googling revealed quite a few hits mentioning
temperature and humidity as causes, but none mentioning light. I have 5
phals on a north-facing bathroom window, where they flower well, but as
they grow and flower into each other I often turn them 180° to avoid
this. I've never had a bud drop off.

--

Jeff

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 2014-08-24 11:42:47 +0000, Spider said:

On 24/08/2014 07:39, Sacha wrote:
On 2014-08-23 18:24:39 +0000, Spider said:

On 23/08/2014 16:29, Pam Moore wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote

I bought one of these some time ago and it has bloomed from around
March
until a week ago, when the flowers started to wither and drop off.
Pretty
good value, I'd say. BUT having transferred it to the 'hospital'
window in
the kitchen, I glanced at it the other day, wondering if the stem
was dying
back, To my surprise and pleasure, one withered flower was still
clinging
on but further up exactly the same stem, new buds are forming. I've
never
seen this happen before on any of my other Phals.

Quite normal. It's why you should never cut the flower stem off a Phal
unless it goes brown and dead. The show experts use this trait to
enable
them to produce lots of flowers by changing the temperature at which
the
plant is kept so extending the flower spike a number of times. You
may find
the spike branches onto a number of extended spikes before flowering, I
think that is when they are at their most beautiful.

I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.




Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why
orchids are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness
can also have the same effect.

That's interesting, Spider. I bought one recently from Morrisons, a
double-stemmed one with flowers open and with buds. Three buds have
dropped off andI was about to write here, asking why! I assume there's
nothing I can do to prevent this?




Yes, I've had that happen occasionally. When I get mine home, I look
closely to see which direction the buds are facing and try and mimic
that, so they don't have to 'travel' and dislocate themselves.
It's also possible that the supermarket has not kept up with the
watering, so check if yours needs a drink. The other possibility
(especially now that the weather is cooler and frosts are already
forecast in some areas) is that your Phal. suffered from a draught or
chill as you brought it home. Stores and gcs often put the pot in a
carrier bag, but I often take an extra bag and gently put it over the
head of the orchid until I get home. I get some odd looks at the till,
but I'm well beyond worrying about such things!

Of course, when you get home and your frozen peas thaw because you've
been tending your orchid, you'll just have to tell Ray plants have
priority (he'll understand that) and would he like pea soup for dinner?
(He may not understand that!):~))

I don't think it got cold! I brought it straight home from Totnes,
which was a 20 minute or so journey and Morrisons supplied one of those
very long poly bags which went over the whole plant. I'll follow your
advice for any moving! No pea soup so far! ;-)

--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 13:05, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 23/08/2014 19:24, Spider wrote:
On 23/08/2014 16:29, Pam Moore wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:31:26 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

"Sacha" wrote


I have 5 plants. One did just this, made new stems of buds after the
previous lot died off. However, the buds have failed to open, having
veen there a few months. Then the buds started dropping.
Could this have been the very hot weather? They are in the same place
where I always keep them. One has had a wonderful spray of flowers,
also for a few months.
Sometimes the old stems go woody and then I cut them down to the base.



Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why orchids
are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness can also
have the same effect.

Are you sure about the change in light direction causing bud drop,
Spider? A quick bit of googling revealed quite a few hits mentioning
temperature and humidity as causes, but none mentioning light. I have 5
phals on a north-facing bathroom window, where they flower well, but as
they grow and flower into each other I often turn them 180° to avoid
this. I've never had a bud drop off.




Yes, I've read it in at least one of my many orchid books. I don't
think it's the same as bud blast. In the early days of my keeping
orchids, perfectly healthy buds would abort mysteriously relatively soon
after I'd got them home. Then I read about their dislike of movement,
obliging them to twist on the stem. Since then, I've taken particular
care when manoeuvering them and had no casualites, which would seem to
bear it out.

I'm wondering now, because of what you say, if this habit refers
especially to the smaller buds which appear to have no pedicel (which
would allow them to move), and that bigger buds with developed pedicel
are freer to move. Interesting.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

Yes, I've read it in at least one of my many orchid books. I don't
think it's the same as bud blast. In the early days of my keeping
orchids, perfectly healthy buds would abort mysteriously relatively soon
after I'd got them home. Then I read about their dislike of movement,
obliging them to twist on the stem. Since then, I've taken particular
care when manoeuvering them and had no casualites, which would seem to
bear it out.

I'm wondering now, because of what you say, if this habit refers
especially to the smaller buds which appear to have no pedicel (which
would allow them to move), and that bigger buds with developed pedicel
are freer to move. Interesting.


Sounds to me as if the best thing to do is to select your plant/s from
the middle of the trolley in the supermarket where they have had maximum
shading, then cover them with a black bag over their head on the journey
home, then position them with the young buds facing the light.
Then pray you got it right.

Phalenopsis orchid
 

In article , montebrasite4
@ntl.com says...
"Spider" wrote in message ...


Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction. They
are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why orchids are
invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness can also have the
same effect.





That is interesting. I've got a phal that is just about to
flower. When the flower shoot started to grow, I moved it from
a cold north facing bedroom window, to the soth facing dining
room, at the opposite side from the window, so it did not get
direct sunlight. As the flower shoot grew, it developed a
distinct bend, which I tried to correct by clipping it to the
support. Worked after a fashion, but the top 2" is determinedly
horizontal. I also kept turning the pot, but that did not help
at all. Buds are now swelling, bottom 2 are about 50mm big, so
I wont be touch it again, except to take it into the sink when
it needs watering.

Out of interest, I did repot this one about 18 months ago as it
was becoming top heavy and the pot would fall over if not
supported. Re-potted, into the same pot, in an almost upright
position, which it maintained for about 9 months befor begining
to tilt again.

--
Roger T

700 ft up in Mid-Wales

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Bertie Doe" wrote ...



"Spider" wrote

Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction. They
are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why orchids are
invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness can also have
the same effect.

I have 2 phals on an East facing window. Problem is, they both suffer from
excess growth on one side.

I've tried adjusting the thin support sticks (supplied) to get them more
upright but with little success.

Don't want to turn them around, as you say, for fear of buds and flower
loss.



Phals naturally grow almost horizontally, they do not grow upwards normally.
They are tropical epiphytes growing on tree branches for support.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp5RB79U_TE
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...
On 23/08/2014 23:44, Bertie Doe wrote:

Don't want to turn them around, as you say, for fear of buds and flower
loss.


Once out of the bud stage, I turn mine very, very gradually, but only
if I feel they really need it. If you try this, make sure yours are
well-watered to lessen the chance of flower loss. I've never lost
flowers this way yet, but I am very cautious. Of course, you can
always wait until the flowers are over and then turn it round to
balance up the growth. If yours are very lop-sided, you may have to
be patient and wait until they're ready to be potted on, then simply
set them as upright as you can *without breaking roots*.

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?





Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest bark
one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost
which has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although
many believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some
sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the
plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 16:28, David Hill wrote:
Yes, I've read it in at least one of my many orchid books. I don't
think it's the same as bud blast. In the early days of my keeping
orchids, perfectly healthy buds would abort mysteriously relatively soon
after I'd got them home. Then I read about their dislike of movement,
obliging them to twist on the stem. Since then, I've taken particular
care when manoeuvering them and had no casualites, which would seem to
bear it out.

I'm wondering now, because of what you say, if this habit refers
especially to the smaller buds which appear to have no pedicel (which
would allow them to move), and that bigger buds with developed pedicel
are freer to move. Interesting.


Sounds to me as if the best thing to do is to select your plant/s from
the middle of the trolley in the supermarket where they have had maximum
shading, then cover them with a black bag over their head on the journey
home, then position them with the young buds facing the light.
Then pray you got it right.



Indeed, you may very well be right. I'll keep my fingers crossed that
the ones I like best are in the middle of the trolley. It is certainly
worth while taking an extra bag along for protection, especially in the
chilly season.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest bark one
mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost which
has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although many
believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some sunlight
(they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the plant needs
repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed. I've
never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it won't be
long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 16:16, Spider wrote:

Are you sure about the change in light direction causing bud drop,
Spider? A quick bit of googling revealed quite a few hits mentioning
temperature and humidity as causes, but none mentioning light. I have 5
phals on a north-facing bathroom window, where they flower well, but as
they grow and flower into each other I often turn them 180° to avoid
this. I've never had a bud drop off.

Yes, I've read it in at least one of my many orchid books. I don't
think it's the same as bud blast. In the early days of my keeping
orchids, perfectly healthy buds would abort mysteriously relatively soon
after I'd got them home. Then I read about their dislike of movement,
obliging them to twist on the stem. Since then, I've taken particular
care when manoeuvering them and had no casualites, which would seem to
bear it out.

I'm wondering now, because of what you say, if this habit refers
especially to the smaller buds which appear to have no pedicel (which
would allow them to move), and that bigger buds with developed pedicel
are freer to move. Interesting.

Roger Tonkin's post seems to suggest that there is no problem turning
phals. Seems like some experimentation is required! If you have enough,
why not turn a couple and leave the rest alone, everything else staying
the same (heat, humidity, watering, etc)? It would be interesting to see
if those dropped their buds while the others didn't. If they did, the
question would then be why some experience bud drop on turning whilst
others don't. Curious.

--

Jeff

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest bark one
mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost which
has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although many
believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some sunlight
(they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the plant needs
repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed. I've
never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it won't be
long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.

Probably best.

But if you get more phals (we've got 5 - all presents or rescues), you
might like to try something else (and much cheaper). I use ordinary
potting compost - sometimes with extra JI - mixed with chunks of old
oasis. I would guess that vermiculite or perlite would have the same
effect. As Spider says, the main thing you are after is good drainage,
but also it's important not to let the plants dry out completely. I find
one of the biggest problems with phals is that they soon get top heavy,
and although I use transparent pots, I rather paradoxically put them in
heavy, decorative, pots so that they don't fall over too readily!

--

Jeff

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Bertie Doe" wrote



"Spider" wrote
Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest bark
one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost
which has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although
many believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some
sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the plant
needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed. I've
never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it won't be
long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.


Be careful with your choice of orchid compost, most is suitable for
Cymbidiums not Phals which, as epiphytes, have their roots hanging in the
air where they dry out quickly.
I use bark chippings specially for orchids together with live sphagnum moss
and clear pots do allow the moss to grow in the pot and around the roots
which phals love.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is
also clearer when the plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.






When you pick up the compost, have a good feel at the bag so you know it
has a reasonable quantity of bark. There seem to be slightly different
grades, although this appears to be accidental since there is no grading
on the label. I bought a bag in a hurry a few years ago and there was
less bark than usual, much of it being coarse composted bark, and some
of my Phalaenopsis failed due to lack of drainage. This less
well-drained compost was suitable for my Cambrias and Paphiopedilums
(which don't hold onto water as well as Phals) so the remainder wasn't
wasted.

If you look at your Phalaenopsis roots, you will see they are quite
fleshy (they should be!) and this enables them to hold on to water in
the manner of a succulent, though not for so long. Many other orchids -
cambrias, burragenea(sp?), odontoglossums, oncidiums - have much finer
roots, so cannot store water for long. Paphiopedilums have fairly thick
roots and fall between the two. Looking at the roots gives you a
helpful guide to their watering regime. This will be useful to you when
you increase your stock (you will!).

Going back to Phals, it's worth noting that if the end of their fleshy
roots is reddish, this is a sign of stress.

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 08:20, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest
bark one
mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost which
has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although many
believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some sunlight
(they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the plant needs
repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've
never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be
long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.

Probably best.

But if you get more phals (we've got 5 - all presents or rescues), you
might like to try something else (and much cheaper). I use ordinary
potting compost - sometimes with extra JI - mixed with chunks of old
oasis. I would guess that vermiculite or perlite would have the same
effect. As Spider says, the main thing you are after is good drainage,
but also it's important not to let the plants dry out completely. I find
one of the biggest problems with phals is that they soon get top heavy,
and although I use transparent pots, I rather paradoxically put them in
heavy, decorative, pots so that they don't fall over too readily!




Indeed, Jeff, they do get top heavy and lop-sided, too, and I also put
mine in smart heavy pot covers. However, enough light still gets to the
roots so they can synthesise. I'm sure this makes a difference.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 22:44, Bob Hobden wrote:
"Bertie Doe" wrote ...



"Spider" wrote

Buds can abort if the plant is turned to face a different direction.
They are unable to turn with the stem, so drop off. This is why
orchids are invariably bought with flowers open. Drought and dryness
can also have the same effect.

I have 2 phals on an East facing window. Problem is, they both suffer
from excess growth on one side.

I've tried adjusting the thin support sticks (supplied) to get them
more upright but with little success.

Don't want to turn them around, as you say, for fear of buds and
flower loss.



Phals naturally grow almost horizontally, they do not grow upwards
normally. They are tropical epiphytes growing on tree branches for support.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp5RB79U_TE



I let many of my Phals grow horizontally and they look lovely and more
natural, of course. Even so, I find heavier flower spikes still need a
little support otherwise they'd drag the plant off the window sill!

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 08:09, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/08/2014 16:16, Spider wrote:

Are you sure about the change in light direction causing bud drop,
Spider? A quick bit of googling revealed quite a few hits mentioning
temperature and humidity as causes, but none mentioning light. I have 5
phals on a north-facing bathroom window, where they flower well, but as
they grow and flower into each other I often turn them 180° to avoid
this. I've never had a bud drop off.

Yes, I've read it in at least one of my many orchid books. I don't
think it's the same as bud blast. In the early days of my keeping
orchids, perfectly healthy buds would abort mysteriously relatively soon
after I'd got them home. Then I read about their dislike of movement,
obliging them to twist on the stem. Since then, I've taken particular
care when manoeuvering them and had no casualites, which would seem to
bear it out.

I'm wondering now, because of what you say, if this habit refers
especially to the smaller buds which appear to have no pedicel (which
would allow them to move), and that bigger buds with developed pedicel
are freer to move. Interesting.

Roger Tonkin's post seems to suggest that there is no problem turning
phals. Seems like some experimentation is required! If you have enough,
why not turn a couple and leave the rest alone, everything else staying
the same (heat, humidity, watering, etc)? It would be interesting to see
if those dropped their buds while the others didn't. If they did, the
question would then be why some experience bud drop on turning whilst
others don't. Curious.




If I have enough!:~) I have 31 orchids (discounting hardy outdoor
types) and 18 of these are Phals, so I could experiment with one or two.
I already make minor manoeuvres when space on the window sill gets
tight, but I do it with my fingers crossed.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 14:03, Spider wrote:
On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is
also clearer when the plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.






When you pick up the compost, have a good feel at the bag so you know it
has a reasonable quantity of bark. There seem to be slightly different
grades, although this appears to be accidental since there is no grading
on the label. I bought a bag in a hurry a few years ago and there was
less bark than usual, much of it being coarse composted bark, and some
of my Phalaenopsis failed due to lack of drainage. This less
well-drained compost was suitable for my Cambrias and Paphiopedilums
(which don't hold onto water as well as Phals) so the remainder wasn't
wasted.

If you look at your Phalaenopsis roots, you will see they are quite
fleshy (they should be!) and this enables them to hold on to water in
the manner of a succulent, though not for so long. Many other orchids -
cambrias, burragenea(sp?), odontoglossums, oncidiums - have much finer
roots, so cannot store water for long. Paphiopedilums have fairly thick
roots and fall between the two. Looking at the roots gives you a
helpful guide to their watering regime. This will be useful to you when
you increase your stock (you will!).

Going back to Phals, it's worth noting that if the end of their fleshy
roots is reddish, this is a sign of stress.

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?
All this talk of clear pots has me wondering, Half pint or Pint plastic
beer glasses with holes burned in should do the job quite well.
Any comments?
David @ a wet side of Swansea Bay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"David Hill" wrote
I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?
All this talk of clear pots has me wondering, Half pint or Pint plastic
beer glasses with holes burned in should do the job quite well.
Any comments?


Sounds like a good idea David, much cheaper and they are even clearer.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

David, Digestives indeed :-(( Shame on you. Jammy Dodgers

Mike

..................................................
For those ex Royal Navy.
http://angelradioisleofwight.moonfru...ive/4574468641
7.30 – 8.00 pm Wednesday 27th August 2014
‘From the Crowe’s Nest’





"David Hill" wrote in message ...

On 25/08/2014 14:03, Spider wrote:
On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is
also clearer when the plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.






When you pick up the compost, have a good feel at the bag so you know it
has a reasonable quantity of bark. There seem to be slightly different
grades, although this appears to be accidental since there is no grading
on the label. I bought a bag in a hurry a few years ago and there was
less bark than usual, much of it being coarse composted bark, and some
of my Phalaenopsis failed due to lack of drainage. This less
well-drained compost was suitable for my Cambrias and Paphiopedilums
(which don't hold onto water as well as Phals) so the remainder wasn't
wasted.

If you look at your Phalaenopsis roots, you will see they are quite
fleshy (they should be!) and this enables them to hold on to water in
the manner of a succulent, though not for so long. Many other orchids -
cambrias, burragenea(sp?), odontoglossums, oncidiums - have much finer
roots, so cannot store water for long. Paphiopedilums have fairly thick
roots and fall between the two. Looking at the roots gives you a
helpful guide to their watering regime. This will be useful to you when
you increase your stock (you will!).

Going back to Phals, it's worth noting that if the end of their fleshy
roots is reddish, this is a sign of stress.

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?
All this talk of clear pots has me wondering, Half pint or Pint plastic
beer glasses with holes burned in should do the job quite well.
Any comments?
David @ a wet side of Swansea Bay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 17:35, David Hill wrote:
On 25/08/2014 14:03, Spider wrote:
On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is
also clearer when the plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.






When you pick up the compost, have a good feel at the bag so you know it
has a reasonable quantity of bark. There seem to be slightly different
grades, although this appears to be accidental since there is no grading
on the label. I bought a bag in a hurry a few years ago and there was
less bark than usual, much of it being coarse composted bark, and some
of my Phalaenopsis failed due to lack of drainage. This less
well-drained compost was suitable for my Cambrias and Paphiopedilums
(which don't hold onto water as well as Phals) so the remainder wasn't
wasted.

If you look at your Phalaenopsis roots, you will see they are quite
fleshy (they should be!) and this enables them to hold on to water in
the manner of a succulent, though not for so long. Many other orchids -
cambrias, burragenea(sp?), odontoglossums, oncidiums - have much finer
roots, so cannot store water for long. Paphiopedilums have fairly thick
roots and fall between the two. Looking at the roots gives you a
helpful guide to their watering regime. This will be useful to you when
you increase your stock (you will!).

Going back to Phals, it's worth noting that if the end of their fleshy
roots is reddish, this is a sign of stress.

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?


No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.


All this talk of clear pots has me wondering, Half pint or Pint plastic
beer glasses with holes burned in should do the job quite well.
Any comments?
David @ a wet side of Swansea Bay



You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids. They're great short term, but too
brittle really for longer term or, indeed, for putting beer in - they
just split in my experience.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Bob Hobden" wrote in message ...

"Bertie Doe" wrote

"Spider" wrote
Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest bark
one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost
which has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although
many believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some
sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the plant
needs repotting.
snip

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.


Be careful with your choice of orchid compost, most is suitable for
Cymbidiums not Phals which, as epiphytes, have their roots hanging in the
air where they dry out quickly.
I use bark chippings specially for orchids together with live sphagnum moss
and clear pots do allow the moss to grow in the pot and around the roots
which phals love.

Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 21:24, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Bob Hobden" wrote in message ...

"Bertie Doe" wrote

"Spider" wrote
Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it
is also clearer when the plant needs repotting.
snip

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some
orchid feed at the same time.


Be careful with your choice of orchid compost, most is suitable for
Cymbidiums not Phals which, as epiphytes, have their roots hanging in
the air where they dry out quickly.
I use bark chippings specially for orchids together with live sphagnum
moss and clear pots do allow the moss to grow in the pot and around
the roots which phals love.

Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?





I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers. Do
you use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the basic
clear orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your outer pots
are fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at all.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?


No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.

Sorry Spider I have re read your posting and see I have to let the
orchids settle first, then share the tea and biscuits with them.

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 22:56, David Hill wrote:
On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff
half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?


No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.

Sorry Spider I have re read your posting and see I have to let the
orchids settle first, then share the tea and biscuits with them.




Quite so, David. If they decline the biscuits, they are probably just
being polite, so scoff them yourself .. the biscuits, that is. Next
time offer them Butterfly buns (nearest I can get to Moth orchids!!).

Joking aside, I have a friend who gives her orchids tea (without milk)
when there's some left in the teapot. It stains the roots black, so it
seems to me that would stop them photosynthesising. That takes the biscuit!
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 24/08/2014 16:28, David Hill wrote:

snip, snip
... then cover them with a black bag over their head on the journey
home...
and snip again

Stops them being able to identify you or escape back to the supermarket.

--
regards andy

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 27/08/2014 08:31, News wrote:
On 24/08/2014 16:28, David Hill wrote:

snip, snip
... then cover them with a black bag over their head on the journey
home...
and snip again

Stops them being able to identify you or escape back to the supermarket.




LOL! I had the same thought :~)

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 25/08/2014 21:24, Bertie Doe wrote:


Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?



I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers. Do you
use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the basic clear
orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your outer pots are
fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at all.

Sorry Spider I misunderstood you, I thought you meant clear inner pots and
clear outer pots :)

No mine are clear inners (supplied) and solid china outers. I assume the gap
twixt the two is sufficient.

As you can see from the pic, both have a one-sided growth. Despite turning
them several times during the year. :-

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/336925/34644809

Phalenopsis orchid
 

"Bertie Doe" wrote

"Spider" wrote

Bertie Doe wrote:


Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?



I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers. Do
you use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the basic clear
orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your outer pots are
fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at all.

Sorry Spider I misunderstood you, I thought you meant clear inner pots and
clear outer pots :)

No mine are clear inners (supplied) and solid china outers. I assume the
gap twixt the two is sufficient.

As you can see from the pic, both have a one-sided growth. Despite turning
them several times during the year. :-

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/336925/34644809


I refer you to my post of the 24th, that is their normal way of growing, see
the video of one in the wild.


--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

Phalenopsis orchid
 

On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:
You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids.

Spider - speaking of keikis, you might recall that you advised me on the
two that I seemed to get last year.

I've been too scared to think of trying to separate them, so they are
still attached to the original old flower shoots, but now one of them
has flowered while in place. I'm sure that this is normal, but it
really pleased me.

You can see a couple of phone (ie, not very good) shots of it at
http://1drv.ms/1rBW2hv (a link to my OneDrive).

There are two old flowering shoots, both of which I cut partially back
after flowering - and both of which developed keikis. One of them now
has its own flowering shoot:)

Thanks again

--
regards andy