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Pics of trees for Spider
Tops of the trees as promised.
Plum - bit of a mess eh? http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5nd/3 Tops of hydrangea in front of cotoneaster http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5nc/3 Holly. There are new leaves there too (the pale ones) so not just the base:) http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5n6/3 Apple - I can really see how much I need 'the book' :) http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5mx/3 At least I will be around for a while to try and sort these out. Thank you if you have the time to look tomorrow:) Ophelia -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
Pics of trees for Spider
On 28/08/2014 19:18, Ophelia wrote:
Tops of the trees as promised. Plum - bit of a mess eh? http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5nd/3 Tops of hydrangea in front of cotoneaster http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5nc/3 Holly. There are new leaves there too (the pale ones) so not just the base:) http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5n6/3 Apple - I can really see how much I need 'the book' :) http://tinypic.com/m/i6m5mx/3 At least I will be around for a while to try and sort these out. Thank you if you have the time to look tomorrow:) Ophelia Hello again, Ophelia. Good idea to start a new thread. As you probably know, I've been replying to Jake D's original post. It seems only good manners since we rather hijacked his thread! (Thanks, JD, for not complaining). Thank you for taking the extra photographs. Alas, I'm having a spot of trouble with Tinypic just now :~((. I got a glimpse, then they disappeared. I'll look again later. I'll try and work from memory for now, so I might mentally 'hop' about a bit. *Cotoneaster: not certain which one it is, but it looks vigorous enough. However, I'm not terribly happy about the taped up wound where your dog showed his appreciation. If there are wounds (probably), they really need to get some air to them while the wood really hardens off. After that, instead of using tape, could you protect the area with, say, a modified wire hanging basket instead or even a strong wire mesh which would allow the shrub to breathe, otherwise you may be inviting fungal problems. You'd need to keep an eye on it as the Cotoneaster grows so that the wire doesn't cut into the bark. The same is true of the tape, of course; if it doesn't 'give' when the trunk expands, then the tape will tighten and cut in. This can be very damaging/even fatal. Although Cotoneasters don't need lots of pruning, you may choose to tidy it into a preferred shape which best accommodates its space/looks aesthetically pleasing to you. Pruning should be done in winter or mid-spring, except for Cotoneaster horizontalis which should be pruned in late winter. I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters so that the berries are shown off. I usually do this in autumn, however, and never had any problems. Cotoneasters do not always respond well to very hard pruning, so only take out larger branches that you really don't want. *Plum Tree: these must be pruned in good, dry sunny weather so that the cut heals quickly, otherwise the tree can succumb to 'Silver Leaf', which is very harmful, so you need to act on a sunny day. Hope you can find one:~). Recalling the earlier pics, your plum seemed to have a number of poorly healed stubs where previous pruning took place. Woody pruning cuts (not just for plum trees) should always be at the 'collar': somewhat sub-conical, wrinkled area of the branch between the trunk (or major branch) you're cutting back to and the branch you're cutting out. This area contains the healing cells and hormones which will start to heal the cut. So: do not leave a stub, do not cut flush with the trunk. Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. At the moment, that is heaps for you to do and you don't want to stress the tree by taking out too much wood at once. What you can do, however, is look for any fruit (healthy, damaged, suffering Brown Rot [fungus in rings] or 'mummified') and remove them. In fact, because of the fungus risk, it would be better to do this job before you start pruning! Well, Ophelia, it's nearly dinner time again, so I'm going to have a rest from the screen now. Sorry I couldn't see your new pics, but hope I've given you enough information for now. Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). I must do a bit of gardening tomorrow, but will look in again later on and discuss the Holly et al *and* will try and find those pics. Have a lovely evening. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message ... Hello again, Ophelia. Good idea to start a new thread. As you probably know, I've been replying to Jake D's original post. It seems only good manners since we rather hijacked his thread! (Thanks, JD, for not complaining). From me too:) I have been learning from your posts to him as well:)) Thank you for taking the extra photographs. Alas, I'm having a spot of trouble with Tinypic just now :~((. I got a glimpse, then they disappeared. I'll look again later. I'll try and work from memory for now, so I might mentally 'hop' about a bit. *Cotoneaster: not certain which one it is, but it looks vigorous enough. However, I'm not terribly happy about the taped up wound where your dog showed his appreciation. If there are wounds (probably), they really need to get some air to them while the wood really hardens off. After that, instead of using tape, could you protect the area with, say, a modified wire hanging basket instead or even a strong wire mesh which would allow the shrub to breathe, otherwise you may be inviting fungal problems. You'd need to keep an eye on it as the Cotoneaster grows so that the wire doesn't cut into the bark. The same is true of the tape, of course; if it doesn't 'give' when the trunk expands, then the tape will tighten and cut in. This can be very damaging/even fatal. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Although Cotoneasters don't need lots of pruning, you may choose to tidy it into a preferred shape which best accommodates its space/looks aesthetically pleasing to you. Pruning should be done in winter or mid-spring, except for Cotoneaster horizontalis which should be pruned in late winter. I can't remember the type, but it does spread horizontally if that makes any sense? I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters so that the berries are shown off. I usually do this in autumn, however, and never had any problems. Cotoneasters do not always respond well to very hard pruning, so only take out larger branches that you really don't want. It is rather spreading and the branches are drooping down to ground level. Noted! A job for next month then? *Plum Tree: these must be pruned in good, dry sunny weather so that the cut heals quickly, otherwise the tree can succumb to 'Silver Leaf', which is very harmful, so you need to act on a sunny day. Hope you can find one:~). heh well it won't be this week ... g I will! I have heard of silver leaf and wondered if it has it and that may be why it hasn't fruited but apart from some holey leaves, it looks ok. What does 'silver leaf' look like? Recalling the earlier pics, your plum seemed to have a number of poorly healed stubs where previous pruning took place. Woody pruning cuts (not just for plum trees) should always be at the 'collar': somewhat sub-conical, wrinkled area of the branch between the trunk (or major branch) you're cutting back to and the branch you're cutting out. This area contains the healing cells and hormones which will start to heal the cut. So: do not leave a stub, do not cut flush with the trunk. I don't remember cutting it but it has been a long time. If I don't cut flush with the trunk, how will it not leave a stub? Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. Right! Looking at it atm, if I cut out all the cross branches, it might not leave much else. Is it ok to leave it fairly denuded? Will it grow to fill in the gaps? At the moment, that is heaps for you to do and you don't want to stress the tree by taking out too much wood at once. What you can do, however, is look for any fruit (healthy, damaged, suffering Brown Rot [fungus in rings] or 'mummified') and remove them. In fact, because of the fungus risk, it would be better to do this job before you start pruning! I don't have many apples and some are really nice. A few others look 'scabby' is that what you mean? Well, Ophelia, it's nearly dinner time again, so I'm going to have a rest from the screen now. Sorry I couldn't see your new pics, but hope I've given you enough information for now. Yes!!! Thank you once again! As I have mentioned I am saving all your advice and will continue to work through it. Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). Yes, it is a James Grieve. I always remember that because when I planted it, someone asked me what type of apple it is. When I told him he asked me why I called my tree, James. g I must do a bit of gardening tomorrow, but will look in again later on and discuss the Holly et al *and* will try and find those pics. Have a lovely evening. Please don't concern yourself too much nor feel you must respond *only* to me! I am more than happy to wait until you have to time and I am sure there is a lot more posts that will take your interest. You are most kind and I am very grateful:) Enjoy your dinner:) Ophelia -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
Pics of trees for Spider
On 29/08/2014 18:44, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... Hello again, Ophelia. Good idea to start a new thread. As you probably know, I've been replying to Jake D's original post. It seems only good manners since we rather hijacked his thread! (Thanks, JD, for not complaining). From me too:) I have been learning from your posts to him as well:)) Thank you for taking the extra photographs. Alas, I'm having a spot of trouble with Tinypic just now :~((. I got a glimpse, then they disappeared. I'll look again later. I'll try and work from memory for now, so I might mentally 'hop' about a bit. *Cotoneaster: not certain which one it is, but it looks vigorous enough. However, I'm not terribly happy about the taped up wound where your dog showed his appreciation. If there are wounds (probably), they really need to get some air to them while the wood really hardens off. After that, instead of using tape, could you protect the area with, say, a modified wire hanging basket instead or even a strong wire mesh which would allow the shrub to breathe, otherwise you may be inviting fungal problems. You'd need to keep an eye on it as the Cotoneaster grows so that the wire doesn't cut into the bark. The same is true of the tape, of course; if it doesn't 'give' when the trunk expands, then the tape will tighten and cut in. This can be very damaging/even fatal. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Although Cotoneasters don't need lots of pruning, you may choose to tidy it into a preferred shape which best accommodates its space/looks aesthetically pleasing to you. Pruning should be done in winter or mid-spring, except for Cotoneaster horizontalis which should be pruned in late winter. I can't remember the type, but it does spread horizontally if that makes any sense? Quite a few Cotoneasters have an arching and seemingly horizontal growth, but C. Horizontalis is distinctive in having a 'herringbone' arrangement of branches. I was going to add a link here, but Google is agonisingly slow here just now and won't perform. Do look it up, though, as it's quite attractive. I only mentioned it in case you (or another reader) had one, since the pruning time is different. I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters so that the berries are shown off. I usually do this in autumn, however, and never had any problems. Cotoneasters do not always respond well to very hard pruning, so only take out larger branches that you really don't want. It is rather spreading and the branches are drooping down to ground level. Noted! A job for next month then? I would suggest leaving it until November/December, if you can, as it will be more dormant then and less likely to throw out new soft growth which would be damaged by frost. *Plum Tree: these must be pruned in good, dry sunny weather so that the cut heals quickly, otherwise the tree can succumb to 'Silver Leaf', which is very harmful, so you need to act on a sunny day. Hope you can find one:~). heh well it won't be this week ... g I will! I have heard of silver leaf and wondered if it has it and that may be why it hasn't fruited but apart from some holey leaves, it looks ok. What does 'silver leaf' look like? It gives a silvery metallic appearance to the leaf, not surprisingly! Sorry, that's not sarcasm, but once again I can't send you a link to an image, which is very frustrating. I will try again later when Google's bucked its ideas up. If you do find you have Silver Leaf, you will need to cut out all infected growth, then burn the prunings and disinfect the tools used. At last! I've got a link. Hope it works for you: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=245 Recalling the earlier pics, your plum seemed to have a number of poorly healed stubs where previous pruning took place. Woody pruning cuts (not just for plum trees) should always be at the 'collar': somewhat sub-conical, wrinkled area of the branch between the trunk (or major branch) you're cutting back to and the branch you're cutting out. This area contains the healing cells and hormones which will start to heal the cut. So: do not leave a stub, do not cut flush with the trunk. I don't remember cutting it but it has been a long time. If I don't cut flush with the trunk, how will it not leave a stub? Sorry, I've obviously not explained it very well *and* I can't send you a link. I'll try and improvise: |/...... Hope you can follow this: the perpendicular line | is the trunk, the symbol is the collar, the slash / is your cut and the dotted line ..... is the branch you are removing. After pruning, you should be left with: | It may be necessary sometimes to remove a tiny bit of the collar to get a clean cut, but there should always be enough left to heal over. I hope this has helped a bit. Now, thankfully, you can see the link: http://treecarepruningandplanting.com/branch-collar.htm Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. Right! Looking at it atm, if I cut out all the cross branches, it might not leave much else. Is it ok to leave it fairly denuded? Will it grow to fill in the gaps? Mmmm... you might need to leave some of the less congested cross-growth which looks healthy, and take it out another time when you see how the tree responds to this year's work. The important thing is that there is no chafing and that the tree is as clean of disease as possible. Since it's not been pruned for some time, I suppose you could even leave it until next April-ish and prune it in really good weather. At the moment, that is heaps for you to do and you don't want to stress the tree by taking out too much wood at once. What you can do, however, is look for any fruit (healthy, damaged, suffering Brown Rot [fungus in rings] or 'mummified') and remove them. In fact, because of the fungus risk, it would be better to do this job before you start pruning! I don't have many apples and some are really nice. A few others look 'scabby' is that what you mean? Well, 'scabby' has a couple of connotations. It could just be that the skin appears slightly less than perfect but is perfectly healthy or it could mean your tree has Apple Scab: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=81 Good, it seems I can send link now. Well, Ophelia, it's nearly dinner time again, so I'm going to have a rest from the screen now. Sorry I couldn't see your new pics, but hope I've given you enough information for now. Yes!!! Thank you once again! As I have mentioned I am saving all your advice and will continue to work through it. Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). Yes, it is a James Grieve. I always remember that because when I planted it, someone asked me what type of apple it is. When I told him he asked me why I called my tree, James. g Great! That helps a lot. It is spur bearing, which is much easier to prune. Whilst you can't exactly prune willy nilly, you can prune relatively freely without cutting out fruiting wood each year. https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/74563/...ve-(D)/Details I must do a bit of gardening tomorrow, but will look in again later on and discuss the Holly et al *and* will try and find those pics. Have a lovely evening. Please don't concern yourself too much nor feel you must respond *only* to me! I am more than happy to wait until you have to time and I am sure there is a lot more posts that will take your interest. You are most kind and I am very grateful:) Enjoy your dinner:) Ophelia Right, I think I've covered your questions from last time, but do come back if there's something you still don't understand. It does take a while for it all to sink in. I'm just going to briefly mention your Holly while it's on my mind, then I shall do some gardening. I need the fresh air. The pale shoots on the trunk of your holly (or anywhere else they occur) should be pruned out. They're not really doing any harm, but they probably have little or no chlorophyll, so are not contributing to the tree, but are using its resources. As ever, dead, dying and diseased material should be removed (and tools disinfected). Otherwise, it is really a case of shaping it, if needed, to a fairly natural, balanced and pleasing shape. Pruning should take place from mid to late summer before the wood becomes completely hardened. Earlier pruning can result in new shoots which make the shape uneven again. When I come back, I'll try and get your pics again, just in case I've missed something obvious. I'm not at all bothered about concentrating on this, Ophelia, so don't worry. When I need a break or must do a task, I'll use my common sense and pause a while. I do have a lot of migraine troubles, so I do take frequent breaks from the screen, which is my only bug bear. I could talk about gardening all day if my brain didn't hurt and, in truth, it's so nice to help someone as eager to learn as you and so generous with feedback. I know when you've understood something, which helps me move forward. Thank you. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Quite a few Cotoneasters have an arching and seemingly horizontal growth, but C. Horizontalis is distinctive in having a 'herringbone' arrangement of branches. I was going to add a link here, but Google is agonisingly slow here just now and won't perform. Do look it up, though, as it's quite attractive. I only mentioned it in case you (or another reader) had one, since the pruning time is different. Yes! I looked it up. Mine is Horizontalis! I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters so that the berries are shown off. I usually do this in autumn, however, and never had any problems. Cotoneasters do not always respond well to very hard pruning, so only take out larger branches that you really don't want. It is rather spreading and the branches are drooping down to ground level. Noted! A job for next month then? I would suggest leaving it until November/December, if you can, as it will be more dormant then and less likely to throw out new soft growth which would be damaged by frost. Thank you. It is now marked in my calendar. I am hoping to stay up here until at least next year if not longer. I am hoping I can get my trees sorted before I have to go back down. *Plum Tree: It gives a silvery metallic appearance to the leaf, not surprisingly! Sorry, that's not sarcasm, but once again I can't send you a link to an image, which is very frustrating. I will try again later when Google's bucked its ideas up. If you do find you have Silver Leaf, you will need to cut out all infected growth, then burn the prunings and disinfect the tools used. At last! I've got a link. Hope it works for you: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=245 Yes, it did, thank you! My plum tree has rather holey leaves but no silvery sheen. More by luck than good judgement I suspect:) Sorry, I've obviously not explained it very well *and* I can't send you a link. I'll try and improvise: |/...... Hope you can follow this: the perpendicular line | is the trunk, the symbol is the collar, the slash / is your cut and the dotted line ..... is the branch you are removing. After pruning, you should be left with: | It may be necessary sometimes to remove a tiny bit of the collar to get a clean cut, but there should always be enough left to heal over. I hope this has helped a bit. Now, thankfully, you can see the link: http://treecarepruningandplanting.com/branch-collar.htm Thank you, yes:) Btw your improvisation worked very well and I have saved that site for reference:) Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. Right! Looking at it atm, if I cut out all the cross branches, it might not leave much else. Is it ok to leave it fairly denuded? Will it grow to fill in the gaps? Mmmm... you might need to leave some of the less congested cross-growth which looks healthy, and take it out another time when you see how the tree responds to this year's work. The important thing is that there is no chafing and that the tree is as clean of disease as possible. Since it's not been pruned for some time, I suppose you could even leave it until next April-ish and prune it in really good weather. I can do that, yes, but if we do get more good weather within the next few weeks, would be ok to do it then? Would that give it a better start for next year or would it not make much difference? Perhaps next April I could take out the rest? Apples. I don't have many apples and some are really nice. A few others look 'scabby' is that what you mean? Well, 'scabby' has a couple of connotations. It could just be that the skin appears slightly less than perfect but is perfectly healthy or it could mean your tree has Apple Scab: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=81 Good, it seems I can send link now. Ok, I looked up pics of 'apple canker' and 'apple scab'. Judging by the pics, mine have something that looks similar (but not excessively so) and no evidence on the branches. The apples inside are clean and tasty. Is there any advice you can give me to counteract that? Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). Yes, it is a James Grieve. I always remember that because when I planted it, someone asked me what type of apple it is. When I told him he asked me why I called my tree, James. g Great! That helps a lot. It is spur bearing, which is much easier to prune. Whilst you can't exactly prune willy nilly, you can prune relatively freely without cutting out fruiting wood each year. https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/74563/...ve-(D)/Details Please don't concern yourself too much nor feel you must respond *only* to me! I am more than happy to wait until you have to time and I am sure there is a lot more posts that will take your interest. You are most kind and I am very grateful:) Right, I think I've covered your questions from last time, but do come back if there's something you still don't understand. It does take a while for it all to sink in. I am rereading your posts (which are all saved) and have also saved all the websites you have advised, so I have plenty to keep me out of mischief g I'm just going to briefly mention your Holly while it's on my mind, then I shall do some gardening. I need the fresh air. The pale shoots on the trunk of your holly (or anywhere else they occur) should be pruned out. Gosh! That is a surprise:) I thought they were just evidence of extra feeding g Sheesh I have a lot to learn;)) They're not really doing any harm, but they probably have little or no chlorophyll, so are not contributing to the tree, but are using its resources. As ever, dead, dying and diseased material should be removed (and tools disinfected). Otherwise, it is really a case of shaping it, if needed, to a fairly natural, balanced and pleasing shape. Pruning should take place from mid to late summer before the wood becomes completely hardened. Earlier pruning can result in new shoots which make the shape uneven again. Thank you! The tree itself spreads and is rather wild which I like. It is not taking space I would otherwise want to use and looks very pleasing:) Do you think I should prune it anyway, for the sake of its health? When I come back, I'll try and get your pics again, just in case I've missed something obvious. Thank you, you are most kind. I'm not at all bothered about concentrating on this, Ophelia, so don't worry. When I need a break or must do a task, I'll use my common sense and pause a while. I am very pleased to hear that. I do have a lot of migraine troubles, so I do take frequent breaks from the screen, which is my only bug bear. Oh:( I am so sorry. I am most content to wait until you are able or feel you want to help. I feel very blessed that you want to:) I could talk about gardening all day if my brain didn't hurt and, in truth, it's so nice to help someone as eager to learn as you and so generous with feedback. I know when you've understood something, which helps me move forward. Thank you. Oh! I can't begin to tell you what your help means to me:) Thank you so much. Be well soon. Ophelia -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
Pics of trees for Spider
On 31/08/2014 00:05, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Good. I've seen some perfectly good trees wrecked by that kind of restriction. You may find it worth while to check all your tree and shrub ties, to make sure they're not biting in. I check mine a couple of times a year and even nudge my neighbours if I see a biting tree tie. It's usually well received. Quite a few Cotoneasters have an arching and seemingly horizontal growth, but C. Horizontalis is distinctive in having a 'herringbone' arrangement of branches. I was going to add a link here, but Google is agonisingly slow here just now and won't perform. Do look it up, though, as it's quite attractive. I only mentioned it in case you (or another reader) had one, since the pruning time is different. Yes! I looked it up. Mine is Horizontalis! Right. Just as well I mentioned it then! It's a lovely plant, whether grown horizontally or vertically and, although deciduous, I love both the autumn colour and the winter framework. Just make sure that when you prune it, you are sympathetic to that herringbone framework. I haven't asked if you have a grasp of formative pruning? It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters so that the berries are shown off. I usually do this in autumn, however, and never had any problems. Cotoneasters do not always respond well to very hard pruning, so only take out larger branches that you really don't want. It is rather spreading and the branches are drooping down to ground level. Noted! A job for next month then? I would suggest leaving it until November/December, if you can, as it will be more dormant then and less likely to throw out new soft growth which would be damaged by frost. Thank you. It is now marked in my calendar. I am hoping to stay up here until at least next year if not longer. I am hoping I can get my trees sorted before I have to go back down. *Plum Tree: It gives a silvery metallic appearance to the leaf, not surprisingly! Sorry, that's not sarcasm, but once again I can't send you a link to an image, which is very frustrating. I will try again later when Google's bucked its ideas up. If you do find you have Silver Leaf, you will need to cut out all infected growth, then burn the prunings and disinfect the tools used. At last! I've got a link. Hope it works for you: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=245 Yes, it did, thank you! My plum tree has rather holey leaves but no silvery sheen. More by luck than good judgement I suspect:) :~))! Just as well you're lucky, then. No-one would deliberately harm a tree they'd planted, but tree care is quite a steep learning curve; lots to remember. Don't worry about your holey leaves. They're going to fall very soon anyway. If they look diseased when you then inspect them, bin them rather than leave them or compost them. Sorry, I've obviously not explained it very well *and* I can't send you a link. I'll try and improvise: |/...... Hope you can follow this: the perpendicular line | is the trunk, the symbol is the collar, the slash / is your cut and the dotted line ..... is the branch you are removing. After pruning, you should be left with: | It may be necessary sometimes to remove a tiny bit of the collar to get a clean cut, but there should always be enough left to heal over. I hope this has helped a bit. Now, thankfully, you can see the link: http://treecarepruningandplanting.com/branch-collar.htm Thank you, yes:) Btw your improvisation worked very well and I have saved that site for reference:) Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. Right! Looking at it atm, if I cut out all the cross branches, it might not leave much else. Is it ok to leave it fairly denuded? Will it grow to fill in the gaps? Mmmm... you might need to leave some of the less congested cross-growth which looks healthy, and take it out another time when you see how the tree responds to this year's work. The important thing is that there is no chafing and that the tree is as clean of disease as possible. Since it's not been pruned for some time, I suppose you could even leave it until next April-ish and prune it in really good weather. I can do that, yes, but if we do get more good weather within the next few weeks, would be ok to do it then? Would that give it a better start for next year or would it not make much difference? Perhaps next April I could take out the rest? It would certainly be advisable to remove any of the dodgy stubs and torn pruning cuts so that they're flush with the collar and can heal properly. As they are now, the 'die back' those cuts have caused could continue to die back into and past the collar area and into the trunk, which is not desirable. That's your essential work for this year's patch of good weather. Truly, unless you've got a very long branch that might snap in the gales, you might just as well wait till next April and that brilliant weather ;~). Trees tend not to do anything very quickly (not even jumping out in front of motorists), so a few dormant months really won't make that much difference. Apples. I don't have many apples and some are really nice. A few others look 'scabby' is that what you mean? Well, 'scabby' has a couple of connotations. It could just be that the skin appears slightly less than perfect but is perfectly healthy or it could mean your tree has Apple Scab: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=81 Good, it seems I can send link now. Ok, I looked up pics of 'apple canker' and 'apple scab'. Judging by the pics, mine have something that looks similar (but not excessively so) and no evidence on the branches. The apples inside are clean and tasty. Is there any advice you can give me to counteract that? Yes, (in fact, it's probably on that Apple Scab link). You need Bayer's Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, the active ingredient of which is Myclobutanil. There may be other brands on the garden centre shelves, allowing you to compare prices. You also need to know that Apple Scab can infect Cotoneaster, among others. Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). Yes, it is a James Grieve. I always remember that because when I planted it, someone asked me what type of apple it is. When I told him he asked me why I called my tree, James. g Great! That helps a lot. It is spur bearing, which is much easier to prune. Whilst you can't exactly prune willy nilly, you can prune relatively freely without cutting out fruiting wood each year. https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/74563/...ve-(D)/Details Please don't concern yourself too much nor feel you must respond *only* to me! I am more than happy to wait until you have to time and I am sure there is a lot more posts that will take your interest. You are most kind and I am very grateful:) Right, I think I've covered your questions from last time, but do come back if there's something you still don't understand. It does take a while for it all to sink in. I am rereading your posts (which are all saved) and have also saved all the websites you have advised, so I have plenty to keep me out of mischief g I'm just going to briefly mention your Holly while it's on my mind, then I shall do some gardening. I need the fresh air. The pale shoots on the trunk of your holly (or anywhere else they occur) should be pruned out. Gosh! That is a surprise:) I thought they were just evidence of extra feeding g Sheesh I have a lot to learn;)) Well, once you've learned, you can cautiously learn to break the rules sometimes. In this case, if you like the appearance of those shoots and you feel your holly is thriving, then you could choose to leave them. Both myself and my father admired them on our hollies. My father even wondered about propagating from them, but I've never known them 'take'. They just can't produce enough food to live independantly. They're not really doing any harm, but they probably have little or no chlorophyll, so are not contributing to the tree, but are using its resources. As ever, dead, dying and diseased material should be removed (and tools disinfected). Otherwise, it is really a case of shaping it, if needed, to a fairly natural, balanced and pleasing shape. Pruning should take place from mid to late summer before the wood becomes completely hardened. Earlier pruning can result in new shoots which make the shape uneven again. Thank you! The tree itself spreads and is rather wild which I like. It is not taking space I would otherwise want to use and looks very pleasing:) Do you think I should prune it anyway, for the sake of its health? If it's just how you like it and it's healthy, it doesn't need pruning. Job saved. When I come back, I'll try and get your pics again, just in case I've missed something obvious. Thank you, you are most kind. I'm not at all bothered about concentrating on this, Ophelia, so don't worry. When I need a break or must do a task, I'll use my common sense and pause a while. I am very pleased to hear that. I do have a lot of migraine troubles, so I do take frequent breaks from the screen, which is my only bug bear. Oh:( I am so sorry. I am most content to wait until you are able or feel you want to help. I feel very blessed that you want to:) I could talk about gardening all day if my brain didn't hurt and, in truth, it's so nice to help someone as eager to learn as you and so generous with feedback. I know when you've understood something, which helps me move forward. Thank you. Oh! I can't begin to tell you what your help means to me:) Thank you so much. Be well soon. Ophelia Having dealt with that, I shall have a break and work in the garden for a couple of hours. Later, I will try those pics again. Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
Pics of trees for Spider
On 31/08/2014 14:11, Spider wrote:
Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Just a quick one, you can cut the branch off in 2 sessions, the first 12" or 18" above where you want the final cut so any bark tearing should occur above the final cut then make the final cut where Spider tells you it should be. I do this cutting branches off trees when I have to be up a ladder. Spider is doing a great job explaining it all to you. It's a pity she hasn't got it all down as a booklet so you could print it off to keep for future reference. David @ a sunny side of Swansea Bay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 00:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Good. I've seen some perfectly good trees wrecked by that kind of restriction. You may find it worth while to check all your tree and shrub ties, to make sure they're not biting in. I check mine a couple of times a year and even nudge my neighbours if I see a biting tree tie. It's usually well received. The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( But I will check! cotoneaster. Yes! I looked it up. Mine is Horizontalis! Right. Just as well I mentioned it then! It's a lovely plant, whether grown horizontally or vertically and, although deciduous, I love both the autumn colour and the winter framework. Just make sure that when you prune it, you are sympathetic to that herringbone framework. I haven't asked if you have a grasp of formative pruning? No:( Not only do I not have a grasp, I've never heard of it. I am hoping the book (when it arrives) will explain that? It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters I would suggest leaving it until November/December, if you can, as it will be more dormant then and less likely to throw out new soft growth which would be damaged by frost. Thank you. It is now marked in my calendar. I am hoping to stay up here until at least next year if not longer. I am hoping I can get my trees sorted before I have to go back down. *Plum Tree: It gives a silvery metallic appearance to the leaf, not surprisingly! Sorry, that's not sarcasm, but once again I can't send you a link to an image, which is very frustrating. I will try again later when Google's bucked its ideas up. If you do find you have Silver Leaf, you will need to cut out all infected growth, then burn the prunings and disinfect the tools used. At last! I've got a link. Hope it works for you: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=245 Yes, it did, thank you! My plum tree has rather holey leaves but no silvery sheen. More by luck than good judgement I suspect:) :~))! Just as well you're lucky, then. No-one would deliberately harm a tree they'd planted, but tree care is quite a steep learning curve; lots to remember. Don't worry about your holey leaves. They're going to fall very soon anyway. If they look diseased when you then inspect them, bin them rather than leave them or compost them. I will! Sorry, I've obviously not explained it very well *and* I can't send you a link. I'll try and improvise: |/...... Hope you can follow this: the perpendicular line | is the trunk, the symbol is the collar, the slash / is your cut and the dotted line ..... is the branch you are removing. After pruning, you should be left with: | It may be necessary sometimes to remove a tiny bit of the collar to get a clean cut, but there should always be enough left to heal over. I hope this has helped a bit. Now, thankfully, you can see the link: http://treecarepruningandplanting.com/branch-collar.htm Thank you, yes:) Btw your improvisation worked very well and I have saved that site for reference:) Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. Right! Looking at it atm, if I cut out all the cross branches, it might not leave much else. Is it ok to leave it fairly denuded? Will it grow to fill in the gaps? Mmmm... you might need to leave some of the less congested cross-growth which looks healthy, and take it out another time when you see how the tree responds to this year's work. The important thing is that there is no chafing and that the tree is as clean of disease as possible. Since it's not been pruned for some time, I suppose you could even leave it until next April-ish and prune it in really good weather. I can do that, yes, but if we do get more good weather within the next few weeks, would be ok to do it then? Would that give it a better start for next year or would it not make much difference? Perhaps next April I could take out the rest? It would certainly be advisable to remove any of the dodgy stubs and torn pruning cuts so that they're flush with the collar and can heal properly. As they are now, the 'die back' those cuts have caused could continue to die back into and past the collar area and into the trunk, which is not desirable. Oh! Noted!!! That's your essential work for this year's patch of good weather. Truly, unless you've got a very long branch that might snap in the gales, you might just as well wait till next April and that brilliant weather ;~). Trees tend not to do anything very quickly (not even jumping out in front of motorists), so a few dormant months really won't make that much difference. eg especially not jumping on front of motorists :))) Very well:) I will wait until April :)) Apples. I don't have many apples and some are really nice. A few others look 'scabby' is that what you mean? Well, 'scabby' has a couple of connotations. It could just be that the skin appears slightly less than perfect but is perfectly healthy or it could mean your tree has Apple Scab: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=81 Good, it seems I can send link now. Ok, I looked up pics of 'apple canker' and 'apple scab'. Judging by the pics, mine have something that looks similar (but not excessively so) and no evidence on the branches. The apples inside are clean and tasty. Is there any advice you can give me to counteract that? Yes, (in fact, it's probably on that Apple Scab link). You need Bayer's Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, the active ingredient of which is Myclobutanil. There may be other brands on the garden centre shelves, allowing you to compare prices. You also need to know that Apple Scab can infect Cotoneaster, among others Noted thank you! Can I get that any any garden centre? Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). Yes, it is a James Grieve. I always remember that because when I planted it, someone asked me what type of apple it is. When I told him he asked me why I called my tree, James. g Great! That helps a lot. It is spur bearing, which is much easier to prune. Whilst you can't exactly prune willy nilly, you can prune relatively freely without cutting out fruiting wood each year. https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/74563/...ve-(D)/Details Please don't concern yourself too much nor feel you must respond *only* to me! I am more than happy to wait until you have to time and I am sure there is a lot more posts that will take your interest. You are most kind and I am very grateful:) Right, I think I've covered your questions from last time, but do come back if there's something you still don't understand. It does take a while for it all to sink in. I am rereading your posts (which are all saved) and have also saved all the websites you have advised, so I have plenty to keep me out of mischief g I'm just going to briefly mention your Holly while it's on my mind, then I shall do some gardening. I need the fresh air. The pale shoots on the trunk of your holly (or anywhere else they occur) should be pruned out. Gosh! That is a surprise:) I thought they were just evidence of extra feeding g Sheesh I have a lot to learn;)) Well, once you've learned, you can cautiously learn to break the rules sometimes. In this case, if you like the appearance of those shoots and you feel your holly is thriving, then you could choose to leave them. Both myself and my father admired them on our hollies. My father even wondered about propagating from them, but I've never known them 'take'. They just can't produce enough food to live independantly. Right, thank you:) I do like them:))) They're not really doing any harm, but they probably have little or no chlorophyll, so are not contributing to the tree, but are using its resources. As ever, dead, dying and diseased material should be removed (and tools disinfected). Otherwise, it is really a case of shaping it, if needed, to a fairly natural, balanced and pleasing shape. Pruning should take place from mid to late summer before the wood becomes completely hardened. Earlier pruning can result in new shoots which make the shape uneven again. Thank you! The tree itself spreads and is rather wild which I like. It is not taking space I would otherwise want to use and looks very pleasing:) Do you think I should prune it anyway, for the sake of its health? If it's just how you like it and it's healthy, it doesn't need pruning. Job saved. Excellent:))) When I come back, I'll try and get your pics again, just in case I've missed something obvious. Thank you, you are most kind. I'm not at all bothered about concentrating on this, Ophelia, so don't worry. When I need a break or must do a task, I'll use my common sense and pause a while. I am very pleased to hear that. I do have a lot of migraine troubles, so I do take frequent breaks from the screen, which is my only bug bear. Oh:( I am so sorry. I am most content to wait until you are able or feel you want to help. I feel very blessed that you want to:) I could talk about gardening all day if my brain didn't hurt and, in truth, it's so nice to help someone as eager to learn as you and so generous with feedback. I know when you've understood something, which helps me move forward. Thank you. Oh! I can't begin to tell you what your help means to me:) Thank you so much. Be well soon. Ophelia Having dealt with that, I shall have a break and work in the garden for a couple of hours. Later, I will try those pics again. Thank you:) Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) I hope you are feeling better now. I will await your next foray into my err busy garden:))) Lucky O -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
Pics of trees for Spider
"David Hill" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 14:11, Spider wrote: Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Just a quick one, you can cut the branch off in 2 sessions, the first 12" or 18" above where you want the final cut so any bark tearing should occur above the final cut then make the final cut where Spider tells you it should be. I do this cutting branches off trees when I have to be up a ladder. Spider is doing a great job explaining it all to you. It's a pity she hasn't got it all down as a booklet so you could print it off to keep for future reference. Thanks, David, I have saved all her posts so will have something useful to read in the depth of winter ... that and the new book she advised:)) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
Pics of trees for Spider
On 31/08/2014 18:26, David Hill wrote:
On 31/08/2014 14:11, Spider wrote: Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Just a quick one, you can cut the branch off in 2 sessions, the first 12" or 18" above where you want the final cut so any bark tearing should occur above the final cut then make the final cut where Spider tells you it should be. I do this cutting branches off trees when I have to be up a ladder. Spider is doing a great job explaining it all to you. It's a pity she hasn't got it all down as a booklet so you could print it off to keep for future reference. David @ a sunny side of Swansea Bay Thanks, David, for the compliment! I was about to - finally - get around to the multi-cutting just before I got into serious undercutting, but I'm grateful for your input. I managed to mow and edge a lawn this pm while the sun was shining, so time well spent. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 31/08/2014 19:05, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 00:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Good. I've seen some perfectly good trees wrecked by that kind of restriction. You may find it worth while to check all your tree and shrub ties, to make sure they're not biting in. I check mine a couple of times a year and even nudge my neighbours if I see a biting tree tie. It's usually well received. The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? Incidentally, it's quite possible to strangle roses with ties unless you're checking/pruning them regularly. They can grow quite quickly, especially when you're absent for a while ... But I will check! cotoneaster. Yes! I looked it up. Mine is Horizontalis! Right. Just as well I mentioned it then! It's a lovely plant, whether grown horizontally or vertically and, although deciduous, I love both the autumn colour and the winter framework. Just make sure that when you prune it, you are sympathetic to that herringbone framework. I haven't asked if you have a grasp of formative pruning? No:( Not only do I not have a grasp, I've never heard of it. I am hoping the book (when it arrives) will explain that? It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) Great! That makes proceedings much easier. You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) If recently erected, and the roses et al, recently pruned to their situation, then all is probably well there. Some future pruning will be inevitable, though. You will have The Book by then ... and URG, just in case :~). I tend to prune out the extension growths on my Cotoneasters I would suggest leaving it until November/December, if you can, as it will be more dormant then and less likely to throw out new soft growth which would be damaged by frost. Thank you. It is now marked in my calendar. I am hoping to stay up here until at least next year if not longer. I am hoping I can get my trees sorted before I have to go back down. *Plum Tree: It gives a silvery metallic appearance to the leaf, not surprisingly! Sorry, that's not sarcasm, but once again I can't send you a link to an image, which is very frustrating. I will try again later when Google's bucked its ideas up. If you do find you have Silver Leaf, you will need to cut out all infected growth, then burn the prunings and disinfect the tools used. At last! I've got a link. Hope it works for you: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=245 Yes, it did, thank you! My plum tree has rather holey leaves but no silvery sheen. More by luck than good judgement I suspect:) :~))! Just as well you're lucky, then. No-one would deliberately harm a tree they'd planted, but tree care is quite a steep learning curve; lots to remember. Don't worry about your holey leaves. They're going to fall very soon anyway. If they look diseased when you then inspect them, bin them rather than leave them or compost them. I will! Sorry, I've obviously not explained it very well *and* I can't send you a link. I'll try and improvise: |/...... Hope you can follow this: the perpendicular line | is the trunk, the symbol is the collar, the slash / is your cut and the dotted line ..... is the branch you are removing. After pruning, you should be left with: | It may be necessary sometimes to remove a tiny bit of the collar to get a clean cut, but there should always be enough left to heal over. I hope this has helped a bit. Now, thankfully, you can see the link: http://treecarepruningandplanting.com/branch-collar.htm Thank you, yes:) Btw your improvisation worked very well and I have saved that site for reference:) Hope I've explained that well enough. Anyway, you need to cleanly cut away the stubs and half branches. Also take out any dead, dying or damaged wood. Having done this, clean your secateurs/loppers so that you do not introduce disease to new cuts. Just as with an apple tree, the plum should not have any inward-growing branches which will stifle air movement, or branches that cross each other and cause - or may cause - chafing, so you will need to cut these out. Right! Looking at it atm, if I cut out all the cross branches, it might not leave much else. Is it ok to leave it fairly denuded? Will it grow to fill in the gaps? Mmmm... you might need to leave some of the less congested cross-growth which looks healthy, and take it out another time when you see how the tree responds to this year's work. The important thing is that there is no chafing and that the tree is as clean of disease as possible. Since it's not been pruned for some time, I suppose you could even leave it until next April-ish and prune it in really good weather. I can do that, yes, but if we do get more good weather within the next few weeks, would be ok to do it then? Would that give it a better start for next year or would it not make much difference? Perhaps next April I could take out the rest? It would certainly be advisable to remove any of the dodgy stubs and torn pruning cuts so that they're flush with the collar and can heal properly. As they are now, the 'die back' those cuts have caused could continue to die back into and past the collar area and into the trunk, which is not desirable. Oh! Noted!!! That's your essential work for this year's patch of good weather. Truly, unless you've got a very long branch that might snap in the gales, you might just as well wait till next April and that brilliant weather ;~). Trees tend not to do anything very quickly (not even jumping out in front of motorists), so a few dormant months really won't make that much difference. eg especially not jumping on front of motorists :))) Very well:) I will wait until April :)) Apples. I don't have many apples and some are really nice. A few others look 'scabby' is that what you mean? Well, 'scabby' has a couple of connotations. It could just be that the skin appears slightly less than perfect but is perfectly healthy or it could mean your tree has Apple Scab: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=81 Good, it seems I can send link now. Ok, I looked up pics of 'apple canker' and 'apple scab'. Judging by the pics, mine have something that looks similar (but not excessively so) and no evidence on the branches. The apples inside are clean and tasty. Is there any advice you can give me to counteract that? Yes, (in fact, it's probably on that Apple Scab link). You need Bayer's Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, the active ingredient of which is Myclobutanil. There may be other brands on the garden centre shelves, allowing you to compare prices. You also need to know that Apple Scab can infect Cotoneaster, among others Noted thank you! Can I get that any any garden centre? You ought to be able to. Try your local gc first. Sometimes it's worth checking Wilkinsons or the 'pound' shops first. Oooh, just had a thought! Do you know the varietal name of your apple? It may tell us whether it's tip or spur bearing ... which has a bearing on the pruning;~). Yes, it is a James Grieve. I always remember that because when I planted it, someone asked me what type of apple it is. When I told him he asked me why I called my tree, James. g Great! That helps a lot. It is spur bearing, which is much easier to prune. Whilst you can't exactly prune willy nilly, you can prune relatively freely without cutting out fruiting wood each year. https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/74563/...ve-(D)/Details Please don't concern yourself too much nor feel you must respond *only* to me! I am more than happy to wait until you have to time and I am sure there is a lot more posts that will take your interest. You are most kind and I am very grateful:) Right, I think I've covered your questions from last time, but do come back if there's something you still don't understand. It does take a while for it all to sink in. I am rereading your posts (which are all saved) and have also saved all the websites you have advised, so I have plenty to keep me out of mischief g I'm just going to briefly mention your Holly while it's on my mind, then I shall do some gardening. I need the fresh air. The pale shoots on the trunk of your holly (or anywhere else they occur) should be pruned out. Gosh! That is a surprise:) I thought they were just evidence of extra feeding g Sheesh I have a lot to learn;)) Well, once you've learned, you can cautiously learn to break the rules sometimes. In this case, if you like the appearance of those shoots and you feel your holly is thriving, then you could choose to leave them. Both myself and my father admired them on our hollies. My father even wondered about propagating from them, but I've never known them 'take'. They just can't produce enough food to live independantly. Right, thank you:) I do like them:))) They're not really doing any harm, but they probably have little or no chlorophyll, so are not contributing to the tree, but are using its resources. As ever, dead, dying and diseased material should be removed (and tools disinfected). Otherwise, it is really a case of shaping it, if needed, to a fairly natural, balanced and pleasing shape. Pruning should take place from mid to late summer before the wood becomes completely hardened. Earlier pruning can result in new shoots which make the shape uneven again. Thank you! The tree itself spreads and is rather wild which I like. It is not taking space I would otherwise want to use and looks very pleasing:) Do you think I should prune it anyway, for the sake of its health? If it's just how you like it and it's healthy, it doesn't need pruning. Job saved. Excellent:))) When I come back, I'll try and get your pics again, just in case I've missed something obvious. Thank you, you are most kind. I'm not at all bothered about concentrating on this, Ophelia, so don't worry. When I need a break or must do a task, I'll use my common sense and pause a while. I am very pleased to hear that. I do have a lot of migraine troubles, so I do take frequent breaks from the screen, which is my only bug bear. Oh:( I am so sorry. I am most content to wait until you are able or feel you want to help. I feel very blessed that you want to:) I could talk about gardening all day if my brain didn't hurt and, in truth, it's so nice to help someone as eager to learn as you and so generous with feedback. I know when you've understood something, which helps me move forward. Thank you. Oh! I can't begin to tell you what your help means to me:) Thank you so much. Be well soon. Ophelia Having dealt with that, I shall have a break and work in the garden for a couple of hours. Later, I will try those pics again. Thank you:) Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) Dinna panic, lassie, as they say up't there! :~))) It's all very straight forward. I will try and find a link tomorrow to make it easier, but it's really basic common sense, truly. You will have no trouble grasping it. You don't even have to be expert; even just understanding it helps keep you from making mistakes. I hope you are feeling better now. I will await your next foray into my err busy garden:))) Lucky O Thank you, I am feeling a little better. I wake up most morning with head pain and sometimes neuralgia/neuropathy, so I have to be used to coping with it. Many people have worse things to worry about, so most days I just try and get on with it. I'm just a creaky gate .. maybe I should get a prescription for WD40!:~). I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 19:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 00:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Good. I've seen some perfectly good trees wrecked by that kind of restriction. You may find it worth while to check all your tree and shrub ties, to make sure they're not biting in. I check mine a couple of times a year and even nudge my neighbours if I see a biting tree tie. It's usually well received. The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Incidentally, it's quite possible to strangle roses with ties unless you're checking/pruning them regularly. They can grow quite quickly, especially when you're absent for a while ... Oh dear! These have not been pruned for a very long time. To be honest I think it has strangled itself. The bulk of it I have tied to a trellis under a window. When I came back I never pruned it, I just tied them in and have trained it across to go up and over the arch. Right. Just as well I mentioned it then! It's a lovely plant, whether grown horizontally or vertically and, although deciduous, I love both the autumn colour and the winter framework. Just make sure that when you prune it, you are sympathetic to that herringbone framework. I haven't asked if you have a grasp of formative pruning? No:( Not only do I not have a grasp, I've never heard of it. I am hoping the book (when it arrives) will explain that? It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) Great! That makes proceedings much easier. Phew I got something right!!!!! g You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) If recently erected, and the roses et al, recently pruned to their situation, then all is probably well there. Some future pruning will be inevitable, though. You will have The Book by then ... and URG, just in case :~). Oh Yes, thank goodness. You are a godsend:)) Will this book cover such things as the climbing roses too? I haven't pruned them at all since I have been back. They were all over the place but I just tied them into the rest so I would have something to train over the arch. I have to say there is quite a thicket. They have honeysuckle growing through them too. Hmm I don't remember planting that:) At least now I will be coming up fairly regularly so it won't be left to its own devices for several years again and the work I do now with pay off for the future. Taming this garden is a full time job g Yes, (in fact, it's probably on that Apple Scab link). You need Bayer's Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, the active ingredient of which is Myclobutanil. There may be other brands on the garden centre shelves, allowing you to compare prices. You also need to know that Apple Scab can infect Cotoneaster, among others Noted thank you! Can I get that any any garden centre? You ought to be able to. Try your local gc first. Sometimes it's worth checking Wilkinsons or the 'pound' shops first. Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) Dinna panic, lassie, as they say up't there! :~))) lol they do indeed:)) It's all very straight forward. I will try and find a link tomorrow to make it easier, but it's really basic common sense, truly. You will have no trouble grasping it. You don't even have to be expert; even just understanding it helps keep you from making mistakes. :)) You are most kind:))) I hope you are feeling better now. I will await your next foray into my err busy garden:))) Lucky O Thank you, I am feeling a little better. I wake up most morning with head pain and sometimes neuralgia/neuropathy, so I have to be used to coping with it. Many people have worse things to worry about, so most days I just try and get on with it. I'm just a creaky gate .. maybe I should get a prescription for WD40!:~). WD40 eh? LOL. Weell, whitever floats yur wee boat, hen :))))) I used to get migraine when I was much younger. So I have a bit of an idea what you are suffering but certainly not the neuralgia/neuropathy :( I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
Pics of trees for Spider
"Ophelia" wrote in message ... "David Hill" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 14:11, Spider wrote: Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Just a quick one, you can cut the branch off in 2 sessions, the first 12" or 18" above where you want the final cut so any bark tearing should occur above the final cut then make the final cut where Spider tells you it should be. I do this cutting branches off trees when I have to be up a ladder. Spider is doing a great job explaining it all to you. It's a pity she hasn't got it all down as a booklet so you could print it off to keep for future reference. Thanks, David, I have saved all her posts so will have something useful to read in the depth of winter ... that and the new book she advised:)) I should have said, your post has gone into the file too:))) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said:
"Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. -- Sacha www.hillhousenursery.com South Devon |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 01/09/2014 12:43, Ophelia wrote:
"Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 I have a nice plane green large leafed Ivy, the widest leaf I've had was 10 inches across. |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"David Hill" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 12:43, Ophelia wrote: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 I have a nice plane green large leafed Ivy, the widest leaf I've had was 10 inches across. Wow! Mine is a midget in comparison:)) I will pop down and measure that one in the pic ... Ok, a puny 4 1/2 inches in comparison to yours:)) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 31/08/2014 22:37, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 19:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 00:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Good. I've seen some perfectly good trees wrecked by that kind of restriction. You may find it worth while to check all your tree and shrub ties, to make sure they're not biting in. I check mine a couple of times a year and even nudge my neighbours if I see a biting tree tie. It's usually well received. The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Incidentally, it's quite possible to strangle roses with ties unless you're checking/pruning them regularly. They can grow quite quickly, especially when you're absent for a while ... Oh dear! These have not been pruned for a very long time. To be honest I think it has strangled itself. The bulk of it I have tied to a trellis under a window. When I came back I never pruned it, I just tied them in and have trained it across to go up and over the arch. Right. Just as well I mentioned it then! It's a lovely plant, whether grown horizontally or vertically and, although deciduous, I love both the autumn colour and the winter framework. Just make sure that when you prune it, you are sympathetic to that herringbone framework. I haven't asked if you have a grasp of formative pruning? No:( Not only do I not have a grasp, I've never heard of it. I am hoping the book (when it arrives) will explain that? It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) Great! That makes proceedings much easier. Phew I got something right!!!!! g Of course you did :~). You know more than you think you do, I'm sure. You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) If recently erected, and the roses et al, recently pruned to their situation, then all is probably well there. Some future pruning will be inevitable, though. You will have The Book by then ... and URG, just in case :~). Oh Yes, thank goodness. You are a godsend:)) Will this book cover such things as the climbing roses too? Oh, indeed it does! It covers all aspects of pruning and training roses, so you'll have a fair bit of reading to do. I haven't pruned them at all since I have been back. They were all over the place but I just tied them into the rest so I would have something to train over the arch. I have to say there is quite a thicket. They have honeysuckle growing through them too. Hmm I don't remember planting that:) At least now I will be coming up fairly regularly so it won't be left to its own devices for several years again and the work I do now with pay off for the future. Taming this garden is a full time job g But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). Yes, (in fact, it's probably on that Apple Scab link). You need Bayer's Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, the active ingredient of which is Myclobutanil. There may be other brands on the garden centre shelves, allowing you to compare prices. You also need to know that Apple Scab can infect Cotoneaster, among others Noted thank you! Can I get that any any garden centre? You ought to be able to. Try your local gc first. Sometimes it's worth checking Wilkinsons or the 'pound' shops first. Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) Dinna panic, lassie, as they say up't there! :~))) lol they do indeed:)) It's all very straight forward. I will try and find a link tomorrow to make it easier, but it's really basic common sense, truly. You will have no trouble grasping it. You don't even have to be expert; even just understanding it helps keep you from making mistakes. :)) You are most kind:))) I hope you are feeling better now. I will await your next foray into my err busy garden:))) Lucky O Thank you, I am feeling a little better. I wake up most morning with head pain and sometimes neuralgia/neuropathy, so I have to be used to coping with it. Many people have worse things to worry about, so most days I just try and get on with it. I'm just a creaky gate .. maybe I should get a prescription for WD40!:~). WD40 eh? LOL. Weell, whitever floats yur wee boat, hen :))))) I used to get migraine when I was much younger. So I have a bit of an idea what you are suffering but certainly not the neuralgia/neuropathy :( I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia Thank you, Ophelia:~). That's truly nice of you. Now it's time to discuss the 'undercut', so that you don't tear the bark as your pruning cut reaches the lower side of the branch and the weight of the part-severed branch suddenly accelerates the fall and rips the bark as the limb descends. Once you've identified the branch you're going to cut and, especially if it's a long/heavy branch, it will help to follow David's advice and make at least one cut through the length of the branch to lighten the load. (With a mature forest tree, a tree surgeon may make several cuts before he nears the trunk and prepares to sever the branch where it joins). David cited 12" to 18" for the sort of work you will be doing, and that's fine. http://www.wikihow.com/Cut-a-Limb-from-a-Tree So if you received that link, you should now understand how to make a partial cut under the unwanted branch close to the site where you intend to make your downward cut. When I'm pruning tree branches here, I confess I try and get the undercut as close as I can to the intended downcut, so there is no step as shown in the link. If I get it right, then I just need to neaten up the cut with secateurs so there are no snags. However, until you're confident that you're getting it right, leave enough room before the 'collar' to make a second and final clean cut with a minimal undercut as shown. Thank goodness for the link! That's not easy to explain, but I hope I've managed to get it over all right. You may not need to do a lot of that heavy duty pruning, but it's important to know how to do it correctly. Once you know it, it's just common sense followed by practice. Right, I'm now starting to get a bit woolly-brained; I'm not sure if I've missed a plant or a technique. I don't want to leave you high and dry before The Book turns up, so do let me know if you've still got a query, if if you need a clearer explanation, and I'll do my best. Perhaps David, or another pruning geek will pop up if I've missed a basic technique that would guide you through the pruning maze. I'll have a quick peek at your last pic links to see if I'm receiving them. Happy gardening! -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 01/09/2014 15:10, Ophelia wrote:
"sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Well, Hedera 'Paddy's Pride' is another name for Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart', and it certainly looks like yours. So I can be pleased I got the colchica bit, and Sacha can be pleased she got the cultivar. Under the name of 'Sulphur Heart', it is very widely available which increases the likelihood. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message ... It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) Great! That makes proceedings much easier. Phew I got something right!!!!! g Of course you did :~). You know more than you think you do, I'm sure. Heh I wouldn't count on that:))) You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) If recently erected, and the roses et al, recently pruned to their situation, then all is probably well there. Some future pruning will be inevitable, though. You will have The Book by then ... and URG, just in case :~). Oh Yes, thank goodness. You are a godsend:)) Will this book cover such things as the climbing roses too? Oh, indeed it does! It covers all aspects of pruning and training roses, so you'll have a fair bit of reading to do. Yes:)) I have been having a look:))) Did you see, it has arrived!!!! :)))) Gosh it is a super book btw. Thank you for the recommendation:) I haven't pruned them at all since I have been back. They were all over the place but I just tied them into the rest so I would have something to train over the arch. I have to say there is quite a thicket. They have honeysuckle growing through them too. Hmm I don't remember planting that:) At least now I will be coming up fairly regularly so it won't be left to its own devices for several years again and the work I do now with pay off for the future. Taming this garden is a full time job g But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). ??? I hadn't even thought about those!!! Do I still have time??? Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. I will do that! Thank you:) err what is n-p-k please? Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) Dinna panic, lassie, as they say up't there! :~))) lol they do indeed:)) I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia Thank you, Ophelia:~). That's truly nice of you. It would be even nicer for me if you actually turned up ... ;-) Gosh, imagine me having all that knowledge under my roof!! heh you might get no peace:))) Now it's time to discuss the 'undercut', so that you don't tear the bark as your pruning cut reaches the lower side of the branch and the weight of the part-severed branch suddenly accelerates the fall and rips the bark as the limb descends. Ahhhh!! yes, that makes sense! If the bark were ripped like that, could it kill the tree? Could it not repair itself? Once you've identified the branch you're going to cut and, especially if it's a long/heavy branch, it will help to follow David's advice and make at least one cut through the length of the branch to lighten the load. (With a mature forest tree, a tree surgeon may make several cuts before he nears the trunk and prepares to sever the branch where it joins). David cited 12" to 18" for the sort of work you will be doing, and that's fine. http://www.wikihow.com/Cut-a-Limb-from-a-Tree So if you received that link, you should now understand how to make a partial cut under the unwanted branch close to the site where you intend to make your downward cut. When I'm pruning tree branches here, I confess I try and get the undercut as close as I can to the intended downcut, so there is no step as shown in the link. If I get it right, then I just need to neaten up the cut with secateurs so there are no snags. However, until you're confident that you're getting it right, leave enough room before the 'collar' to make a second and final clean cut with a minimal undercut as shown. Thank goodness for the link! That's not easy to explain, but I hope I've managed to get it over all right. You may not need to do a lot of that heavy duty pruning, but it's important to know how to do it correctly. Once you know it, it's just common sense followed by practice. Yes! Thank you! As you know I am saving all your posts along with the links you have provided, so I can refer back. Right, I'm now starting to get a bit woolly-brained; I'm not sure if I've missed a plant or a technique. I don't want to leave you high and dry before The Book turns up, so do let me know if you've still got a query, if if you need a clearer explanation, and I'll do my best. Perhaps David, or another pruning geek will pop up if I've missed a basic technique that would guide you through the pruning maze. I'll have a quick peek at your last pic links to see if I'm receiving them. Happy gardening! Thank you so much for all your time and trouble I am very grateful and I have learned so much already from your kind posts and explanations. If I am allowed, I doubt you have heard the last from me ;-) Be well and enjoy your own garden:) Heh you might even get the time now:)))) Best always Ophelia -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 15:10, Ophelia wrote: "sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Well, Hedera 'Paddy's Pride' is another name for Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart', and it certainly looks like yours. So I can be pleased I got the colchica bit, and Sacha can be pleased she got the cultivar. Under the name of 'Sulphur Heart', it is very widely available which increases the likelihood. Probably:)) Does it require any special attention or is it easy to take care of. It seems to have done ok left to its own devices so far;)) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 01/09/2014 16:41, Spider wrote:
On 31/08/2014 22:37, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 19:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... On 31/08/2014 00:05, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message Cotoneaster. Gosh thanks! It is just string but I will take it all off immediately and keep a good eye on my dog! Just to assure you, I took it off immediately I had stopped posting:) Good. I've seen some perfectly good trees wrecked by that kind of restriction. You may find it worth while to check all your tree and shrub ties, to make sure they're not biting in. I check mine a couple of times a year and even nudge my neighbours if I see a biting tree tie. It's usually well received. The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Incidentally, it's quite possible to strangle roses with ties unless you're checking/pruning them regularly. They can grow quite quickly, especially when you're absent for a while ... Oh dear! These have not been pruned for a very long time. To be honest I think it has strangled itself. The bulk of it I have tied to a trellis under a window. When I came back I never pruned it, I just tied them in and have trained it across to go up and over the arch. Right. Just as well I mentioned it then! It's a lovely plant, whether grown horizontally or vertically and, although deciduous, I love both the autumn colour and the winter framework. Just make sure that when you prune it, you are sympathetic to that herringbone framework. I haven't asked if you have a grasp of formative pruning? No:( Not only do I not have a grasp, I've never heard of it. I am hoping the book (when it arrives) will explain that? It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) Great! That makes proceedings much easier. Phew I got something right!!!!! g Of course you did :~). You know more than you think you do, I'm sure. You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) If recently erected, and the roses et al, recently pruned to their situation, then all is probably well there. Some future pruning will be inevitable, though. You will have The Book by then ... and URG, just in case :~). Oh Yes, thank goodness. You are a godsend:)) Will this book cover such things as the climbing roses too? Oh, indeed it does! It covers all aspects of pruning and training roses, so you'll have a fair bit of reading to do. I haven't pruned them at all since I have been back. They were all over the place but I just tied them into the rest so I would have something to train over the arch. I have to say there is quite a thicket. They have honeysuckle growing through them too. Hmm I don't remember planting that:) At least now I will be coming up fairly regularly so it won't be left to its own devices for several years again and the work I do now with pay off for the future. Taming this garden is a full time job g But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). Yes, (in fact, it's probably on that Apple Scab link). You need Bayer's Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, the active ingredient of which is Myclobutanil. There may be other brands on the garden centre shelves, allowing you to compare prices. You also need to know that Apple Scab can infect Cotoneaster, among others Noted thank you! Can I get that any any garden centre? You ought to be able to. Try your local gc first. Sometimes it's worth checking Wilkinsons or the 'pound' shops first. Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. Yikes! Most important! Before you remove any significant branches off anything, you will need to know about 'undercutting'. This is the technique that stops bark tearing on the underside of the branch as you finish your cut. I'll cover that next time. Ta ra for now. Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) Dinna panic, lassie, as they say up't there! :~))) lol they do indeed:)) It's all very straight forward. I will try and find a link tomorrow to make it easier, but it's really basic common sense, truly. You will have no trouble grasping it. You don't even have to be expert; even just understanding it helps keep you from making mistakes. :)) You are most kind:))) I hope you are feeling better now. I will await your next foray into my err busy garden:))) Lucky O Thank you, I am feeling a little better. I wake up most morning with head pain and sometimes neuralgia/neuropathy, so I have to be used to coping with it. Many people have worse things to worry about, so most days I just try and get on with it. I'm just a creaky gate .. maybe I should get a prescription for WD40!:~). WD40 eh? LOL. Weell, whitever floats yur wee boat, hen :))))) I used to get migraine when I was much younger. So I have a bit of an idea what you are suffering but certainly not the neuralgia/neuropathy :( I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia Thank you, Ophelia:~). That's truly nice of you. Now it's time to discuss the 'undercut', so that you don't tear the bark as your pruning cut reaches the lower side of the branch and the weight of the part-severed branch suddenly accelerates the fall and rips the bark as the limb descends. Once you've identified the branch you're going to cut and, especially if it's a long/heavy branch, it will help to follow David's advice and make at least one cut through the length of the branch to lighten the load. (With a mature forest tree, a tree surgeon may make several cuts before he nears the trunk and prepares to sever the branch where it joins). David cited 12" to 18" for the sort of work you will be doing, and that's fine. http://www.wikihow.com/Cut-a-Limb-from-a-Tree So if you received that link, you should now understand how to make a partial cut under the unwanted branch close to the site where you intend to make your downward cut. When I'm pruning tree branches here, I confess I try and get the undercut as close as I can to the intended downcut, so there is no step as shown in the link. If I get it right, then I just need to neaten up the cut with secateurs so there are no snags. However, until you're confident that you're getting it right, leave enough room before the 'collar' to make a second and final clean cut with a minimal undercut as shown. Thank goodness for the link! That's not easy to explain, but I hope I've managed to get it over all right. You may not need to do a lot of that heavy duty pruning, but it's important to know how to do it correctly. Once you know it, it's just common sense followed by practice. Right, I'm now starting to get a bit woolly-brained; I'm not sure if I've missed a plant or a technique. I don't want to leave you high and dry before The Book turns up, so do let me know if you've still got a query, if if you need a clearer explanation, and I'll do my best. Perhaps David, or another pruning geek will pop up if I've missed a basic technique that would guide you through the pruning maze. I'll have a quick peek at your last pic links to see if I'm receiving them. Happy gardening! My only addition to Spiders advice would be If you have a lot of heavy pruning to do spread it out over a couple of years or so. It's the same as when you have to cut a hedge back really hard the advice is always cut one side one year and the other the following year. David |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"David Hill" wrote in message ... My only addition to Spiders advice would be If you have a lot of heavy pruning to do spread it out over a couple of years or so. Really??? I am very pleased you told me that! I would almost certainly have lumbered in and chopped them down:( It's the same as when you have to cut a hedge back really hard the advice is always cut one side one year and the other the following year. Thank you very much, David! I will be starting on the roses first. They have stopped flowering, when would you suggest I made a start? Boy that is going to be fun :( I tied in all the long branches. I described it earlier as a thicket. I do not exaggerate. -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
In article ,
Ophelia wrote: "David Hill" wrote in message ... My only addition to Spiders advice would be If you have a lot of heavy pruning to do spread it out over a couple of years or so. Really??? I am very pleased you told me that! I would almost certainly have lumbered in and chopped them down:( It's the same as when you have to cut a hedge back really hard the advice is always cut one side one year and the other the following year. Thank you very much, David! There is an exception to the above. If you are pruning natural deciduous shrubs (i.e. ones that produce multiple stems and go back to bare stems in winter), you can cut them right down - just not too often! That is what coppicing is, after all .... Similarly, pruning plants that both naturally shoot from old wood and lose all leaves in winter, you can cut them right back - again, not too often. This can be worth doing when the plants are beyond any hope of normal pruning! The reason for stressing that the plants are fully deciduous is that many evergreen plants rely on their existing leaves to fuel new shoots - ones like holly and yew will recover from having all leaves removed, but will often be set back by a year or so. Some plants (like some clematis) can handle that treatment every year, but most don't like it more than one year in three, or even one year in ten for some of the coppiced trees. I will be starting on the roses first. They have stopped flowering, when would you suggest I made a start? Boy that is going to be fun :( I tied in all the long branches. I described it earlier as a thicket. I do not exaggerate. I would wait until the light goes - say, the beginning of November. But it is unlikely that you would harm them starting now. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Ophelia wrote: "David Hill" wrote in message ... My only addition to Spiders advice would be If you have a lot of heavy pruning to do spread it out over a couple of years or so. Really??? I am very pleased you told me that! I would almost certainly have lumbered in and chopped them down:( It's the same as when you have to cut a hedge back really hard the advice is always cut one side one year and the other the following year. Thank you very much, David! There is an exception to the above. If you are pruning natural deciduous shrubs (i.e. ones that produce multiple stems and go back to bare stems in winter), you can cut them right down - just not too often! That is what coppicing is, after all .... Similarly, pruning plants that both naturally shoot from old wood and lose all leaves in winter, you can cut them right back - again, not too often. I would be afraid to cut anything back too hard in case I killed it, but your comments are noted and are saved for future ref. This can be worth doing when the plants are beyond any hope of normal pruning! The reason for stressing that the plants are fully deciduous is that many evergreen plants rely on their existing leaves to fuel new shoots - ones like holly and yew will recover from having all leaves removed, but will often be set back by a year or so. Right! I don't think I would have the courage to denude any plant. Btw why would you want to remove all the leaves? Some plants (like some clematis) can handle that treatment every year, but most don't like it more than one year in three, or even one year in ten for some of the coppiced trees. I will be starting on the roses first. They have stopped flowering, when would you suggest I made a start? Boy that is going to be fun :( I tied in all the long branches. I described it earlier as a thicket. I do not exaggerate. I would wait until the light goes - say, the beginning of November. But it is unlikely that you would harm them starting now. Nick, all that information is wonderful and I am very grateful!!! I might make a start on the roses in the next month or so then. They are very bunched up. Not sure how well I will do so, given that I am not too sure which branches to cut out. There are a LOT! I tied them in when we came back up to make them tidy. I wish I had been able to ask here before I did that:( I have spent many years living out of UK and when I have been here, I have been working, so not much time for gardening. I am retired now and settled so I am really enjoying learning and as for the amazing help I have had here .... Well, I am Very Lucky! btw I have clematis which I have trained over a trellis. They are in full flower atm and I am enjoying them:) I didn't realise they needed to be pruned at all! So much to learn:( Saved! Many thanks for your kind post:) Ophelia -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
In article ,
Ophelia wrote: This can be worth doing when the plants are beyond any hope of normal pruning! The reason for stressing that the plants are fully deciduous is that many evergreen plants rely on their existing leaves to fuel new shoots - ones like holly and yew will recover from having all leaves removed, but will often be set back by a year or so. Right! I don't think I would have the courage to denude any plant. Btw why would you want to remove all the leaves? Because you need to cut out all leaf-bearing branches! Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
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On 01/09/2014 17:24, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 15:10, Ophelia wrote: "sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Well, Hedera 'Paddy's Pride' is another name for Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart', and it certainly looks like yours. So I can be pleased I got the colchica bit, and Sacha can be pleased she got the cultivar. Under the name of 'Sulphur Heart', it is very widely available which increases the likelihood. Probably:)) Does it require any special attention or is it easy to take care of. It seems to have done ok left to its own devices so far;)) I thought I'd read that H.colchica types were less hardy than our H. helix. However, if yours is thriving in Scotland, then you can just sit back and enjoy it. If you get a hard winter and it is damaged, simply cut out the damage. I think that's all you need do. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
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On 01/09/2014 17:22, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... It's a posh name for pruning to (below) the bud you want the next growth to sprout from. Right! I do that with other stuff I have cut back. Heh I know how to do it, I just don't know the name of it:)) Great! That makes proceedings much easier. Phew I got something right!!!!! g Of course you did :~). You know more than you think you do, I'm sure. Heh I wouldn't count on that:))) I am counting on it. I can sense it's true. You probably already do it with your roses, but you need to understand it to shape your trees and shrubs properly. Right! My roses are climbers and I am leaving them to do their thing along with some other climbers, over an arch recently erected:)) If recently erected, and the roses et al, recently pruned to their situation, then all is probably well there. Some future pruning will be inevitable, though. You will have The Book by then ... and URG, just in case :~). Oh Yes, thank goodness. You are a godsend:)) Will this book cover such things as the climbing roses too? Oh, indeed it does! It covers all aspects of pruning and training roses, so you'll have a fair bit of reading to do. Yes:)) I have been having a look:))) Did you see, it has arrived!!!! :)))) Gosh it is a super book btw. Thank you for the recommendation:) I haven't pruned them at all since I have been back. They were all over the place but I just tied them into the rest so I would have something to train over the arch. I have to say there is quite a thicket. They have honeysuckle growing through them too. Hmm I don't remember planting that:) At least now I will be coming up fairly regularly so it won't be left to its own devices for several years again and the work I do now with pay off for the future. Taming this garden is a full time job g But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). ??? I hadn't even thought about those!!! Do I still have time??? You certainly do! You can tulips off for a bit, but you could be planting lots of other lovely gems. Time for a visit to the garden centre, me thinks! Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. I will do that! Thank you:) err what is n-p-k please? Oh heck! You don't feel like a holiday in Scotland by any chance ???? ;-) Dinna panic, lassie, as they say up't there! :~))) lol they do indeed:)) I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia Thank you, Ophelia:~). That's truly nice of you. It would be even nicer for me if you actually turned up ... ;-) Gosh, imagine me having all that knowledge under my roof!! heh you might get no peace:))) Neither would you ... I'd probably never stop, once started! :~)) Anyway, I don't know everything. I have my weaknesses. Now it's time to discuss the 'undercut', so that you don't tear the bark as your pruning cut reaches the lower side of the branch and the weight of the part-severed branch suddenly accelerates the fall and rips the bark as the limb descends. Ahhhh!! yes, that makes sense! If the bark were ripped like that, could it kill the tree? Could it not repair itself? It could certainly be very damaging and, on a plum tree, it could let in Silver Leaf and heaven knows what. I seem to think you had a torn stub on your plum tree. It had partly healed and partly died back, so you'll be able to see what can happen following a bad cut. That stub needs your attention since you're going to become an expert overnight ;~)! Once you've identified the branch you're going to cut and, especially if it's a long/heavy branch, it will help to follow David's advice and make at least one cut through the length of the branch to lighten the load. (With a mature forest tree, a tree surgeon may make several cuts before he nears the trunk and prepares to sever the branch where it joins). David cited 12" to 18" for the sort of work you will be doing, and that's fine. http://www.wikihow.com/Cut-a-Limb-from-a-Tree So if you received that link, you should now understand how to make a partial cut under the unwanted branch close to the site where you intend to make your downward cut. When I'm pruning tree branches here, I confess I try and get the undercut as close as I can to the intended downcut, so there is no step as shown in the link. If I get it right, then I just need to neaten up the cut with secateurs so there are no snags. However, until you're confident that you're getting it right, leave enough room before the 'collar' to make a second and final clean cut with a minimal undercut as shown. Thank goodness for the link! That's not easy to explain, but I hope I've managed to get it over all right. You may not need to do a lot of that heavy duty pruning, but it's important to know how to do it correctly. Once you know it, it's just common sense followed by practice. Yes! Thank you! As you know I am saving all your posts along with the links you have provided, so I can refer back. Right, I'm now starting to get a bit woolly-brained; I'm not sure if I've missed a plant or a technique. I don't want to leave you high and dry before The Book turns up, so do let me know if you've still got a query, if if you need a clearer explanation, and I'll do my best. Perhaps David, or another pruning geek will pop up if I've missed a basic technique that would guide you through the pruning maze. I'll have a quick peek at your last pic links to see if I'm receiving them. Happy gardening! Thank you so much for all your time and trouble I am very grateful and I have learned so much already from your kind posts and explanations. If I am allowed, I doubt you have heard the last from me ;-) You are certainly allowed! It would be a pleasure to help if I can. Be well and enjoy your own garden:) Heh you might even get the time now:)))) Best always Ophelia I am already much better than I was, thank you. I shall enjoy doing a spot of my own gardening, but I've got a couple of busy weeks coming up, but then hope to get stuck in, not least planting lots and lots of bulbs:~)). Take care, Ophelia, and enjoy that book and your garden. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
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"Spider" wrote in message ... Phew I got something right!!!!! g Of course you did :~). You know more than you think you do, I'm sure. Heh I wouldn't count on that:))) I am counting on it. I can sense it's true. I bow to your undoubted knowledge and experience, but I don't have too much confidence in myself. The book Yes:)) I have been having a look:))) Did you see, it has arrived!!!! :)))) Gosh it is a super book btw. Thank you for the recommendation:) roses I haven't pruned them at all since I have been back. They were all over the place but I just tied them into the rest so I would have something to train over the arch. I have to say there is quite a thicket. They have honeysuckle growing through them too. Hmm I don't remember planting that:) At least now I will be coming up fairly regularly so it won't be left to its own devices for several years again and the work I do now with pay off for the future. Taming this garden is a full time job g Bulbs But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). ??? I hadn't even thought about those!!! Do I still have time??? You certainly do! You can tulips off for a bit, but you could be planting lots of other lovely gems. Time for a visit to the garden centre, me thinks! Yes? Then I shall have a trip there in Sunday:))) I do love daffodils! Will I be in time? Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. I will do that! Thank you:) err what is n-p-k please? I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia Thank you, Ophelia:~). That's truly nice of you. It would be even nicer for me if you actually turned up ... ;-) Gosh, imagine me having all that knowledge under my roof!! heh you might get no peace:))) Neither would you ... I'd probably never stop, once started! :~)) Anyway, I don't know everything. I have my weaknesses. Well you are very knowledgeable and you have been very kind and generous with your expertise and time. Now it's time to discuss the 'undercut', so that you don't tear the bark as your pruning cut reaches the lower side of the branch and the weight of the part-severed branch suddenly accelerates the fall and rips the bark as the limb descends. Ahhhh!! yes, that makes sense! If the bark were ripped like that, could it kill the tree? Could it not repair itself? It could certainly be very damaging and, on a plum tree, it could let in Silver Leaf and heaven knows what. I seem to think you had a torn stub on your plum tree. It had partly healed and partly died back, so you'll be able to see what can happen following a bad cut. That stub needs your attention since you're going to become an expert overnight ;~)! Huh! Expert? Me? lol anyway I am not sure which stub you are referring to. Oh dear, you have me worried now. Thank goodness for the link! That's not easy to explain, but I hope I've managed to get it over all right. You may not need to do a lot of that heavy duty pruning, but it's important to know how to do it correctly. Once you know it, it's just common sense followed by practice. If I am allowed, I doubt you have heard the last from me ;-) You are certainly allowed! It would be a pleasure to help if I can. Thank you. That is most comforting:)) Be well and enjoy your own garden:) Heh you might even get the time now:)))) I am already much better than I was, thank you. I shall enjoy doing a spot of my own gardening, but I've got a couple of busy weeks coming up, but then hope to get stuck in, not least planting lots and lots of bulbs:~)). Take care, Ophelia, and enjoy that book and your garden. Thank you, I will:) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider (ivy)
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 17:24, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 15:10, Ophelia wrote: "sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Well, Hedera 'Paddy's Pride' is another name for Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart', and it certainly looks like yours. So I can be pleased I got the colchica bit, and Sacha can be pleased she got the cultivar. Under the name of 'Sulphur Heart', it is very widely available which increases the likelihood. Probably:)) Does it require any special attention or is it easy to take care of. It seems to have done ok left to its own devices so far;)) I thought I'd read that H.colchica types were less hardy than our H. helix. However, if yours is thriving in Scotland, then you can just sit back and enjoy it. If you get a hard winter and it is damaged, simply cut out the damage. I think that's all you need do. Thanks, Spider! I have some ivy which grow up my shed:) Very small leaf. I could take a pic but I think I have overloaded you with pics by now:) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Ophelia wrote: This can be worth doing when the plants are beyond any hope of normal pruning! The reason for stressing that the plants are fully deciduous is that many evergreen plants rely on their existing leaves to fuel new shoots - ones like holly and yew will recover from having all leaves removed, but will often be set back by a year or so. Right! I don't think I would have the courage to denude any plant. Btw why would you want to remove all the leaves? Because you need to cut out all leaf-bearing branches! Ahh. I thought you meant remove all the leaves! :)) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider (ivy)
On 01/09/2014 23:22, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 17:24, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 15:10, Ophelia wrote: "sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Well, Hedera 'Paddy's Pride' is another name for Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart', and it certainly looks like yours. So I can be pleased I got the colchica bit, and Sacha can be pleased she got the cultivar. Under the name of 'Sulphur Heart', it is very widely available which increases the likelihood. Probably:)) Does it require any special attention or is it easy to take care of. It seems to have done ok left to its own devices so far;)) I thought I'd read that H.colchica types were less hardy than our H. helix. However, if yours is thriving in Scotland, then you can just sit back and enjoy it. If you get a hard winter and it is damaged, simply cut out the damage. I think that's all you need do. Thanks, Spider! I have some ivy which grow up my shed:) Very small leaf. I could take a pic but I think I have overloaded you with pics by now:) I have not the smallest objection to looking at your ivy pic, or indeed, any other pic but simply may not recognise it. Go on .. have a go! -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 01/09/2014 23:21, Ophelia wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message ... [pruned] Bulbs But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). ??? I hadn't even thought about those!!! Do I still have time??? You certainly do! You can tulips off for a bit, but you could be planting lots of other lovely gems. Time for a visit to the garden centre, me thinks! Yes? Then I shall have a trip there in Sunday:))) I do love daffodils! Will I be in time? Yes, indeed. Just grab 'em and bung 'em in! If your soil is on the heavy side, buy a bag of sharp sand or grit to work into the bottom of the planting hole to improve drainage. Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. I will do that! Thank you:) err what is n-p-k please? Sorry! It is Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium. When you buy a plant feed, look at the n-p-k ratio on the label. It will tell you the proportion of each nutrient, so you can feed your plants correctly. In spring, you may be looking for a more nitrogenous feed, so look for a higher 'n'number. Later in the year, or when a plant is producing flowers, you will need to look for a higher 'K' number. This is the 'high potash feed' that you will have seen recommended on urg whenever a plant fails to flower or fruit as expected, but it is also used regularly by many gardeners to keep their roses (and other flowers) and tomatoes performing. Nitrogen promotes leafy growth, Phosphorus encourages root development, Potassium promotes flower and fruit production (it also helps to ripen/harden off plant growth and help prepare it for winter). I am looking forward to my next foray into your garden. Quite an adventure and remarkably good for my brain. Thank you. Noooo thank YOU!!! You are welcome into my garden any old time you fancy :)) In fact I welcome you with open arms !!! Ophelia Thank you, Ophelia:~). That's truly nice of you. It would be even nicer for me if you actually turned up ... ;-) Gosh, imagine me having all that knowledge under my roof!! heh you might get no peace:))) Neither would you ... I'd probably never stop, once started! :~)) Anyway, I don't know everything. I have my weaknesses. Well you are very knowledgeable and you have been very kind and generous with your expertise and time. You're more than welcome. I've enjoyed doing it. Now it's time to discuss the 'undercut', so that you don't tear the bark as your pruning cut reaches the lower side of the branch and the weight of the part-severed branch suddenly accelerates the fall and rips the bark as the limb descends. Ahhhh!! yes, that makes sense! If the bark were ripped like that, could it kill the tree? Could it not repair itself? It could certainly be very damaging and, on a plum tree, it could let in Silver Leaf and heaven knows what. I seem to think you had a torn stub on your plum tree. It had partly healed and partly died back, so you'll be able to see what can happen following a bad cut. That stub needs your attention since you're going to become an expert overnight ;~)! Huh! Expert? Me? lol anyway I am not sure which stub you are referring to. Oh dear, you have me worried now. I can only guide you to it by looking at your first set of pics, so I'll go back to that thread, have a look and post again from there. I've added nothing below so you need not scroll down. I'll see you at JD's original post. Thank goodness for the link! That's not easy to explain, but I hope I've managed to get it over all right. You may not need to do a lot of that heavy duty pruning, but it's important to know how to do it correctly. Once you know it, it's just common sense followed by practice. If I am allowed, I doubt you have heard the last from me ;-) You are certainly allowed! It would be a pleasure to help if I can. Thank you. That is most comforting:)) Be well and enjoy your own garden:) Heh you might even get the time now:)))) I am already much better than I was, thank you. I shall enjoy doing a spot of my own gardening, but I've got a couple of busy weeks coming up, but then hope to get stuck in, not least planting lots and lots of bulbs:~)). Take care, Ophelia, and enjoy that book and your garden. Thank you, I will:) -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
On 2014-09-01 14:10:39 +0000, Ophelia said:
"sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Looks a bit like it but there are so many ivies... -- Sacha www.hillhousenursery.com South Devon |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"Spider" wrote in message ... On 01/09/2014 23:21, Ophelia wrote: "Spider" wrote in message ... [pruned] Bulbs But you're loving every minute of it, I bet :~). Hope you've left enough time to plant some bulbs for spring;~). ??? I hadn't even thought about those!!! Do I still have time??? You certainly do! You can tulips off for a bit, but you could be planting lots of other lovely gems. Time for a visit to the garden centre, me thinks! Yes? Then I shall have a trip there in Sunday:))) I do love daffodils! Will I be in time? Yes, indeed. Just grab 'em and bung 'em in! If your soil is on the heavy side, buy a bag of sharp sand or grit to work into the bottom of the planting hole to improve drainage. Thank you:) Will do:)) Gosh that will be a treat and liven things up in the spring:)) Thanks, will do:)) Incidentally, I have seen 'growmore' in the pound shops. Will that be the same stuff I see in garden centres? It certainly should be, or it shouldn't carry the name. Have a look on line so you know what n-p-k proper Growmore has, and compare prices/sizes before you check out the local cheapie. I will do that! Thank you:) err what is n-p-k please? Sorry! It is Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium. When you buy a plant feed, look at the n-p-k ratio on the label. It will tell you the proportion of each nutrient, so you can feed your plants correctly. In spring, you may be looking for a more nitrogenous feed, so look for a higher 'n'number. Later in the year, or when a plant is producing flowers, you will need to look for a higher 'K' number. This is the 'high potash feed' that you will have seen recommended on urg whenever a plant fails to flower or fruit as expected, but it is also used regularly by many gardeners to keep their roses (and other flowers) and tomatoes performing. Nitrogen promotes leafy growth, Phosphorus encourages root development, Potassium promotes flower and fruit production (it also helps to ripen/harden off plant growth and help prepare it for winter). Gosh, the technical stuff eh:))) Thank you Good thing! I am saving your posts to refer to:)) I don't know everything. I have my weaknesses. Well you are very knowledgeable and you have been very kind and generous with your expertise and time. Plum You're more than welcome. I've enjoyed doing it. It could certainly be very damaging and, on a plum tree, it could let in Silver Leaf and heaven knows what. I seem to think you had a torn stub on your plum tree. It had partly healed and partly died back, so you'll be able to see what can happen following a bad cut. That stub needs your attention since you're going to become an expert overnight ;~)! Huh! Expert? Me? lol anyway I am not sure which stub you are referring to. Oh dear, you have me worried now. I can only guide you to it by looking at your first set of pics, so I'll go back to that thread, have a look and post again from there. I've added nothing below so you need not scroll down. I'll see you at JD's original post. Ok thanks. You will see I have reposted them because I clear pics out that I think I have done with Thank you, as always:)) Best O -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider (ivy)
"Spider" wrote in message ... I have not the smallest objection to looking at your ivy pic, or indeed, any other pic but simply may not recognise it. Go on .. have a go! Did you see it? If you can't I am more than happy to pop out and take another:)) -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider
"sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 14:10:39 +0000, Ophelia said: "sacha" wrote in message ... On 2014-09-01 11:43:44 +0000, Ophelia said: "Ophelia" wrote in message ... The only things I tie up are my climbers. Roses, clematis, honeysuckle and a broad leaf ivy. I can't remember its name:( Could the ivy be Hedera colchica, or a cultivar of same? I don't know but I will take a photo for you. It has a large leaf, not at all like the smaller leaved ones I have in other places. Here is a pic of my ivy. http://tinypic.com/m/i6xuvq/3 Paddy's Pride? We have it on a wall of the house and it's a large leaf variety. I will take your word for it. I have no idea! Looks a bit like it but there are so many ivies... Would I need to do anything different to them than I do the very small ones? -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider (ivy)
"Ophelia" wrote in message ... "Spider" wrote in message ... I have not the smallest objection to looking at your ivy pic, or indeed, any other pic but simply may not recognise it. Go on .. have a go! Did you see it? If you can't I am more than happy to pop out and take another:)) Oops are you referring to the small leaved ivy I mentioned??? Ok off to take a pic ... http://tinypic.com/m/i6zbya/3 Best O -- http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/ |
!! Pics of trees for Spider (ivy)
On 02/09/2014 17:59, Ophelia wrote:
"Ophelia" wrote in message ... "Spider" wrote in message ... I have not the smallest objection to looking at your ivy pic, or indeed, any other pic but simply may not recognise it. Go on .. have a go! Did you see it? If you can't I am more than happy to pop out and take another:)) Oops are you referring to the small leaved ivy I mentioned??? Ok off to take a pic ... http://tinypic.com/m/i6zbya/3 Best O It looks like Hedera 'Gold Heart' with some reversion, ie reverting reverting to the plain green type. -- Spider. On high ground in SE London gardening on heavy clay |
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