Getting rid of brambles.
 

Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?

Thanks.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

"Zapp Brannigan" wrote in message
...
Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?

I cut mine to the ground,
watered with SBK brushwood killer
Then covered with a carpet,
After a couple of months through the winter I dug the dead and rotting
roots
out of a very friable ground.

YMMV

Dave

Getting rid of brambles.
 

Dave Painter enlightened the world by saying on 28/08/2003 19:41:

"Zapp Brannigan" wrote in message
...

Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?


I cut mine to the ground,
watered with SBK brushwood killer
Then covered with a carpet,
After a couple of months through the winter I dug the dead and rotting
roots
out of a very friable ground.

YMMV

Dave

The area will not be used for planting anythine else there, I was gonna
mix up some caustic soda and give them a "watering". Dunno if this
would work thou...

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article , Zapp
Brannigan writes
Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?

Cut them off close to the ground. Some new shoots will appear, but they
are easily removed and the root systems will rot away by next spring.
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

"Zapp Brannigan" wrote in message
...
Dave Painter enlightened the world by saying on 28/08/2003 19:41:

"Zapp Brannigan" wrote in message
...

Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?


I cut mine to the ground,
watered with SBK brushwood killer
Then covered with a carpet,
After a couple of months through the winter I dug the dead and rotting
roots
out of a very friable ground.

YMMV

Dave

The area will not be used for planting anythine else there, I was gonna
mix up some caustic soda and give them a "watering". Dunno if this
would work thou...


no use sbk the caustic soda wont kill all the roots the sbk gets into the
root system

Getting rid of brambles.
 

I've had succes painting a few leaves with a 50-50 mixture of undiluted
brushwood killer and parrafin

Graham Dixon

Getting rid of brambles.
 

Alan Gould wrote in message ...
In article , Zapp
Brannigan writes
Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?

Cut them off close to the ground. Some new shoots will appear, but they
are easily removed and the root systems will rot away by next spring.

This is the non-chemical approach, and has worked for me more than
once. But don't interpret it as just knocking the new shoots off: you
have to pull or fork out the tough central crown the shoots come from,
or they'll keep on coming. Any actual roots left behind can, as Alan
says, be left to rot, as they won't send out shoots. I'd invest in
some stout leather gloves before starting!

There will be some seedlings and probably nettles for the next couple
of years, but they're easy enough to deal with. One lawn I made of an
old bramble-patch still, three years later, sends up surprises in the
form of bindweed seedlings: no top growth was visible at the time I
did the clearing; if it was one of those very fine short lawns I think
they'd probably be dealt with just by mowing. As somebody else --
sorry, I've forgotten who -- said, the soil is likely to be in
excellent condition, as all those leaves and canes rot down nicely.

It may look a bit frightening, but it's actually not a very difficult
job, and it's very satisfying. I go at the canes with secateurs,
usually cutting each one down in manageable lengths till I get to the
cent long ones are more difficult to move about, and more likely to
catch you on the ears.

Mike.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article ,
(Alan Gould) wrote:

Cut them off close to the ground. Some new shoots will appear, but
they are easily removed and the root systems will rot away by next
spring.

Perhaps Lincolnshire brambles give up much easier than our
Gloucestershire ones! Even adding glyphosate treatment to that regime
doesn't get rid of them in a season.

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article ,
(Mike Lyle) wrote:

have to pull or fork out the tough central crown the shoots come from,
or they'll keep on coming. Any actual roots left behind can, as Alan
says, be left to rot, as they won't send out shoots

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article ,
drop the bomb to reply (Graham Dixon)
wrote:

I've had succes painting a few leaves with a 50-50 mixture of
undiluted brushwood killer and parrafin

There is a possible danger in that. You may kill the treated part of the
plant so quickly the poison doesn't reach the rest. Best to use the
stated dose on the tin.

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

Getting rid of brambles.
 

"Alan wrote in message after Zapp
Brannigan writes
Got some area round the back of the house that been overrun with
brambles. What is the best method of getting rid of them, so they don't
come back?

Cut them off close to the ground. Some new shoots will appear, but they
are easily removed and the root systems will rot away by next spring.
--

Quite agree, we had a large old patch next to one of our allotments and that
went when we burnt it away and then simply mowed the area every few weeks
cutting off any shoots that appeared. It's now a nice grassy area with no
sign of a bramble.

--
Bob

www.pooleygreengrowers.org.uk/ about an Allotment site in
Runnymede fighting for it's existence.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article , Steve
Harris writes

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots
That is true, but if new shoots are tackled early they are quite soft
and easy to snip off with secateurs. Keeping off all top growth will
hasten the deterioration of the root system in the ground.
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

Alan Gould wrote in message ...
In article , Steve
Harris writes

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots
That is true, but if new shoots are tackled early they are quite soft
and easy to snip off with secateurs. [...]

Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Mike.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article , Mike Lyle
writes
Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Bramble seedlings could be grown by saving seed from blackberries, but
if propagation did happen to be desired, a better way would be to let
the tips of runners root into soil. They will do that anyway if you
leave them to their own devices.
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

Alan Gould wrote in message ...
In article , Mike Lyle
writes
Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Bramble seedlings could be grown by saving seed from blackberries, but
if propagation did happen to be desired, a better way would be to let
the tips of runners root into soil. They will do that anyway if you
leave them to their own devices.

No, we're trying to kill 'em, not grow 'em! (Interestingly, I've never
had a thornless volunteer seedling from a thornless parent.)

Mike.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article , Mike Lyle
writes
Alan Gould wrote in message news:VBFHI+CLGDU$EwWl@a
golincs.demon.co.uk...
In article , Steve
Harris writes

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots
That is true, but if new shoots are tackled early they are quite soft
and easy to snip off with secateurs. [...]

Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Bramble seedlings have smaller leaves and are easy to pull up as their
roots are only about 3inches long by the time you recognise them as
brambles. You do get seedlings, but the main regeneration is from the
roots.
--
Kay Easton

Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/edward/index.htm

Getting rid of brambles.
 

Kay Easton wrote in message ...
In article , Mike Lyle
writes
Alan Gould wrote in message news:VBFHI+CLGDU$EwWl@a
golincs.demon.co.uk...
In article , Steve
Harris writes

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots
That is true, but if new shoots are tackled early they are quite soft
and easy to snip off with secateurs. [...]

Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Bramble seedlings have smaller leaves and are easy to pull up as their
roots are only about 3inches long by the time you recognise them as
brambles. You do get seedlings, but the main regeneration is from the
roots.

In that case I must be much more efficient at getting the things out
than I thought, as I've never been troubled by shoots from crownless
roots: this is better news than I usually expect! The regrowths I've
had on various sites are definitely seedlings, apart from a few where
it seems clear on forking them out that I've inadvertently left a
small crown in the ground.

I wish now I'd looked at the ones I had to get out of a load of weedy
soil I got from a neighbour: as they hadn't been hand-weeded but just
broken up by the digger, they could have proved your point
conclusively.

Mike.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 21:46 +0100 (BST), Steve Harris wrote:
In article ,
(Alan Gould) wrote:

Cut them off close to the ground. Some new shoots will appear, but
they are easily removed and the root systems will rot away by next
spring.

Perhaps Lincolnshire brambles give up much easier than our
Gloucestershire ones! Even adding glyphosate treatment to that regime
doesn't get rid of them in a season.

I'm hoping that the brambles I've just taken down aren't that weak and
mild, with any luck they'll be coming back for next year just in time
for me to get the wires up to train the buggers. I think I deserve a
few blackberries as payback for my arms which apparently look like
I've been fighting a bobcat. Nice bonfire lastnight though :)

While I'm pondering does anyone have any recommendations for dwarf
fruit trees, we're thinking of putting in 3-4 down the bottom edge of
the hill as a bit of screening and to add to the fruit we're hoping to
get off the plot.

Mark

--
The Flying Hamster http://www.korenwolf.net/
IRISH DIPLOMACY: The ability to tell a man to go to Hell in such a way that
he looks forward to the trip.

Getting rid of brambles.
 

On 29 Aug 2003 11:11:28 -0700, Mike Lyle wrote:
says, be left to rot, as they won't send out shoots. I'd invest in
some stout leather gloves before starting!

and be prepared to still get thorns and other nasties coming through
the leather when you're not expecting it.

There will be some seedlings and probably nettles for the next couple
of years, but they're easy enough to deal with. One lawn I made of an
old bramble-patch still, three years later, sends up surprises in the
form of bindweed seedlings: no top growth was visible at the time I

What's the current best thinking on how to kill off bindweed and
nettles? We've got a nice little growth of both of them on one side
of the plot and I'm up for anything which will make the job of keeping
them down easier (mowing isn't an option as the ground is 'uneven')

--
The Flying Hamster http://www.korenwolf.net/
I am Homer of Borg! Prepare to be...OOooooo! Donuts!!!

Getting rid of brambles.
 

The message et
from The Flying Hamster contains
these words:

What's the current best thinking on how to kill off bindweed and
nettles? We've got a nice little growth of both of them on one side
of the plot and I'm up for anything which will make the job of keeping
them down easier (mowing isn't an option as the ground is 'uneven')

Glyphosate on the bidweed, and you can strim the nettles or zap them
with glyphosate.

I've been experimenting with bindweed: every time a new bit appeared, I
pulled it. I started early in the spring and I've just pulled some
today.

Poison the gits.

--
Rusty Hinge
horrid·squeak&zetnet·co·uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/tqt.htm

Getting rid of brambles.
 

The message et
from The Flying Hamster contains
these words:

While I'm pondering does anyone have any recommendations for dwarf
fruit trees, we're thinking of putting in 3-4 down the bottom edge of
the hill as a bit of screening and to add to the fruit we're hoping to
get off the plot.

Charles Ross. Lovely apple and can be used as a cooker too. The apples
are the size of young melons......

Bramley. Everyone needs a Bramley. But not a dwarf one.

Beauty of Bath?

--
Rusty Hinge
horrid·squeak&zetnet·co·uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/tqt.htm

Getting rid of brambles.
 

In article et,
(The Flying Hamster) wrote:

I'm hoping that the brambles I've just taken down aren't that weak and
mild, with any luck they'll be coming back for next year just in time
for me to get the wires up to train the buggers. I think I deserve a
few blackberries as payback

I wondered about sparing a few of the buggers. Then I considered that
they'd been these about 15 years and were not very productive. Probably
full of pests and diseases and emptied the soil. So I decided on total
war.

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com