My outdoor Chrysanthemums have just started flowering is this usual for this
time of year?

Lorraine

"GoldDustRhiannon" wrote in message
...
My outdoor Chrysanthemums have just started flowering is this usual for
this
time of year?


Maybe slightly late but I thought they were autumn flowering so that is
right. When I worked in a Chrysanthemum nursery the daylength was
artificially altered by black polythene covers in summer or lights in
winter, to get the correct 'day length' to make them flower.

--
Tumbleweed

Remove theobvious before replying (but no email reply necessary to
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".............My outdoor Chrysanthemums have just started flowering is this
usual for this time of year? ....."

You say your "Outdoor Chrysanths", I wonder if these are ones you have had
in from previous years, if so when did they flower last year?
Chrysanths are regulated by Day length as to when they initiate flower bud,
some will come into flower August then others Sept, October, November and
finally December.
Nov and Dec. normally are grown under cover as they need some heat above
just frost protection.
The time you stop the plants have some influence but poor light levels can
have a marked effect on the flowering time.

This may be of some help
CULTURAL TIPS FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Late November/early December it is time to start the old stools into growth
to produce the cutting material for the forthcoming season. Stools are the
roots from the previous seasons growth washed and the roots trimmed placed
in new compost, and placed on a heating cable if available. It is best to
keep them growing steadily by giving a weak liquid feed and keeping them
moist (this will encourage turgid growth from which the cuttings can be
taken) fresh and green cuttings will root readily. The reason for taking
cuttings is to produce a strong vigorous plant exactly the same as the
mother plant they should be encouraged to make roots as quickly as possible
and to keep it moving once you've achieved the root. Within two weeks the
new shoots ( Cutting material ) should appear. This new growth will root
easier and quicker than the old growth.
January - February
Cuttings
All cuttings should be of the same vigour and about an 2 inches in length.
Strip the lower half of the leaves from the cutting. (Using a sharp clean
knife!) Dip about 3/4 inch of the cut end into a rooting hormone and insert
the cutting about one inch deep into trays with sterile moist sand,
vermiculite or a good rooting medium. If the cuttings are inserted into
cells there will be less root disturbance when potting, Once inserted into
this medium cover it with Perlite to reflect light, and place it in a bright
spot (NOT full sun) until the roots form. Give a light spray and place on
the cable. The speed of rooting is relative to temperature the ideal being
around 24C Rooting at this temperature taking about two weeks . It can be
beneficial to spray the cuttings in sunny weather if they start to flag.
Only water if the compost is dry.
You don't have soil warming don't worry, place the cuttings in to a
polystyrene box and cover with plastic. Do not water too much as this can
lead to damping off, there should be enough moisture in the potting mix to
carry the cuttings over the rooting period. Just before rooting occurs the
cutting turns a greyish colour. Once the cuttings have been taken and put to
root, then a spray with a fungicide, and repeat every 2 weeks,
Once over this period the change is a greener look with the middle growing
away. When the cuttings are rooted , take them off the cable for a day or
so, then move to the bench to harden off. Once off the cable it's a good
idea to spray with a half strength insecticide "just to be on the safe side"
.. Again if no heating cable is used, remove the plastic cover and allow the
cuttings to stand for a couple of days to harden off.
Once well rooted you can pot them on individually into 3 to 4 inch pots
prior to planting out.
Now is a good time to be preparing your compost for your first potting. The
choice between peat based or loam is personal and for you to decide. If you
decide to use soil less you can buy a proprietary brand ready to use.
You can make your own using sand and peat mixed with a based fertiliser. 85
grams (3 oz ) hoof and horn or blood and bone, (3 oz) 85 gram super
phosphate, 1-1/2 oz 43 gram sulphate of potash 1-1/2 oz (43 gram) garden
lime. This is the base mix and can be used for potting plants into 8 cm or
10 cm pots.

March-April

Still keep your eye on the rooting program, put cutting material on the
cable for a later rooting date or if you had some earlier failures. Always
remember it's better to have a late rooted cutting than no cutting at all.
With any luck it will catch up. Continue to pot up plants and when they have
a good root system. Keep the plants well ventilated but out of draughts and
in full light If the plants become dry and start to droop wait until next
morning and then give a good watering. Spray on a regular basis on a dull
day with both insecticide and fungicide. Now is a good time to decide what
sort of plant you want at all stages of its life. The plant should be short
and stocky, this will only be possible with good root action, full light and
temperature as low as possible. BELOW IS AN EXAMPLE FOR A POTTING MEDIUM 7
PARTS LOAM 3 PARTS PEAT 2 PARTS GRIT. Add John Innes fertiliser mix as
instructed on packet.
Keep up regular spraying with Insecticides and Fungicides to prevent rust
and other fungal problems, every 2 weeks through the growing season for the
best results.
Soil Preparation: Chrysanthemums will grow in almost any soil type. But,
the addition of humus materials such as manure, compost, leaf mould, or peat
moss is very beneficial. Super phosphate at the rate of 3 lbs. per 100
square feet is recommended. Gypsum or Dolomite lime is also recommended at
a rate of 10 lbs. per 100 square ft.

April
This is the month that hopefully the cuttings you ordered will arrive ( If
you are a first year grower )Most plants should arrive in good condition any
delay in delivery can result in stressed plants these should be stood in
water for about an hour before potting, then keep them in the shade for a
few days. Check stools on the cable for slugs , if any signs are visible
scatter slug pellets around them. Now is a good time to insert cutting from
these stools which will only receive one stop. Before putting the slug
pellets away scatter some in the cold frame to kill off slugs lurking there
waiting for the plants.
If you are going to grow your Chrysanths on in pots then check your five
inch pots in readiness for potting on. Prepare a new mix of compost, once
again it's a personal choice between peat or loam based. Check your plants
on a regular basis, if the pot is becoming full of roots move it on to a
bigger pot. Insert a split cane and tie the plant loosely to it. Place the
pots in a standing area where they can be under cover to keep off the rain.
Check the later rooted cuttings and pot as soon as possible. Roots size
should be similar to a shaving brush with plenty of white feeder roots
formed

May
Best Planting Time: They should be planted as soon as weather and soil
conditions permit.
Planting: Shallow planting, no deeper that the plant was in its rooting
mixture. Initial planting should be into small pots until established and
growing well. Space9 to 15 inches apart in all directions. Good drainage is
most important
Once your plants are established and are starting to grow then you will need
to stop them back to 4 to 6 leaves, The aim is to grow 4 stems on each
plant. If pot growing then continue to pot up plants into five inch pots as
they need it.
Keep your eyes open for slugs and aphids, spray at the first sign of
infestation. Water only when the plant really needs water, Pot grown plants
will now need to be spaced out as they increase in size. Make it a regular
practice to check each plant. This will enable you to discard any plants
that are not up to scratch, as well as giving you extra space for your
healthy plants. Give as much ventilation as possible.

June - July
Watch for the formation of flower buds, with Spray chrysanths then to disbud
all you do is to remove the crown bud from each stem once it is large enough
to take off. Pot grown plants should now be doing well in pots and be
showing signs of filling their pots with roots. this is always a good sign
that final potting is not far off. Keeping a vigil for slugs and aphids is
the main task along with making sure they're watered. Only water when they
need it. The standing ground also should be made ready to receive the plants
when they are planted out. Never be too ready to pot up your plants. Only
when they have filled the 5'' pots with roots move them on, otherwise they
will sit in the pots for ages and ages until making roots again. When a
plant is ready to move on it fairly races into the new compost where as if
it isn't in the right stage it takes a lot longer. The general mix for final
pots is Loam Base 7 parts loam 3 parts peat 2 parts grit To this add J.
Inness No 4 Fertilizer as recommended per Bushel, Peat Base 3 buckets Peat 1
bucket of Grit approx. To this add 7 grams potassium nitrate 7 grams
sulphate of potash 70 grams super phosphate 7 grams garden lime 225 grams
dolomite per bushel This does not contain too much nitrogen as this can lead
to rotting of the stem of the cutting before it makes roots but once the
plant is up and growing this can be increased by liquid feeding.. Keep pots
on the dry side as the roots will move faster into the compost, this is the
reason they are placed POT THICK to enable the leaves to protect the root
ball from getting soaked during rainy weather. Leave pot thick for 10 to 14
days. Water only if they dry and wilt. Try to get your pots on the standing
ground by the end of the month.

July - August
Any Pot grown plants not on the standing ground by now need to be placed
there as soon as possible Secure each plant with a cane tied to a straining
wire placed between each row leaving about six inches between each pot.
Ideally plants should be in double rows with a space of 2 feet between each
double row. This space will allow you space to walk up and down when you
have to water and feed., Feeding will normally start after the plants have
been planted out for about 4 weeks or with Pot grown plants when they have
been in their final pots for about six (6) weeks . Some growers use liquid
feeds whilst others use powders. Neither is right or wrong. What is
important is that the food is available to the plant as easily as possible.
More plants are spoilt by over feeding at this time so go easy. Learn to
read your plants for both vigour and condition of growth. keep your eye out
for pest attack. Plants will be benefit from a regular sequence of spraying
for pests and diseases.

August -September
Now is the time to watch out for earwigs, they can cause untold damage.
Maintain a regular spray with insecticide for aphids, leaf miners and other
pests. Lower leaves will start to turn yellow as the stems ripen. This is a
natural process and nothing to worry about simply remove them. By now you
should be feeding on a regular basis either weekly or twice a week at half
strength. At the end of the month is also a good idea to give a top dressing
to all plants. Keep a close eye on the watering, only water if it is really
necessary. Also check for caterpillars if any are found spray all plants
with a preparation recommended for caterpillar control. If you found just
one it probably means there are many more.

September - October
Now is a good time to select your stools for next year, mark all plants
that produce your best flowers. These are the ones you want to keep for next
seasons cuttings. Its no good cutting your best flowers and later not
knowing which plant produced them, mark the plants as you cut. Visit as many
shows and other growers as possible. Note any varieties you may want to grow
next season. As the season comes to a close, cut down the main stem to about
nine inches. Lift the stools you want to use for next year, or if Pot grown,
remove the plant from its pot, trim back the roots and box up in fresh
compost. Take down the shading to allow full daylight to encourage new
growth. Continue to check for aphids on stools and spray at first sight.



--
David Hill
Abacus nurseries
www.abacus-nurseries.co.uk