On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:20:07 -0000, Bob wrote:

You could be right about the beds being used for alpines, when I unearthed
them after what seems to be 35 years growth of weeds, shrubs and trees I
found a frame above each one about 2 feet above soil level it foxed me what
they were used for.

Aha! Bulb frames. Used to grow tempermental bulbs that take
exception to Britain's damp climate.

I think Wisley has bulb frames, so you might go take a gander if
you're in the neighborhood to see how they are used.


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
[change "atlantic" to "pacific" and
"invalid" to "net" to reply by email]

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:20:07 -0000, Bob wrote:

You could be right about the beds being used for alpines, when I unearthed
them after what seems to be 35 years growth of weeds, shrubs and trees I
found a frame above each one about 2 feet above soil level it foxed me what
they were used for.

Aha! Bulb frames. Used to grow tempermental bulbs that take
exception to Britain's damp climate.

I think Wisley has bulb frames, so you might go take a gander if
you're in the neighborhood to see how they are used.


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
[change "atlantic" to "pacific" and
"invalid" to "net" to reply by email]

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:20:07 -0000, Bob wrote:

You could be right about the beds being used for alpines, when I unearthed
them after what seems to be 35 years growth of weeds, shrubs and trees I
found a frame above each one about 2 feet above soil level it foxed me what
they were used for.

Aha! Bulb frames. Used to grow tempermental bulbs that take
exception to Britain's damp climate.

I think Wisley has bulb frames, so you might go take a gander if
you're in the neighborhood to see how they are used.


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
[change "atlantic" to "pacific" and
"invalid" to "net" to reply by email]

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

The message
from "Sue da Nimm" . contains these words:

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

One of my cold frames had a wide angle-iron belted into the ground at
each corner, allowing the boards to slot in.

The idea was to raise it by adding more boards as the melons grew, and
that was fine, except that because the hinge had to be forward of the
back board a bit, you had to remove the lid and the back board and slip
another beneath it.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

The message
from "Sue da Nimm" . contains these words:

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

One of my cold frames had a wide angle-iron belted into the ground at
each corner, allowing the boards to slot in.

The idea was to raise it by adding more boards as the melons grew, and
that was fine, except that because the hinge had to be forward of the
back board a bit, you had to remove the lid and the back board and slip
another beneath it.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

The message
from "Sue da Nimm" . contains these words:

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

One of my cold frames had a wide angle-iron belted into the ground at
each corner, allowing the boards to slot in.

The idea was to raise it by adding more boards as the melons grew, and
that was fine, except that because the hinge had to be forward of the
back board a bit, you had to remove the lid and the back board and slip
another beneath it.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

The message
from "Sue da Nimm" . contains these words:

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

I've just invested in 12 scaffolding planks to start dragging some order
into my vegetable garden. I was going to lay them and cut another to
make the top ends and whack a piece of wood into each corner and screw
the planks to them. However a carpenter said I might just as well nail
the scaffolding planks to each other. Is this okay?

I wouldn't! The planks will split around the nails and the weight of the
soil will push the corners apart. We have 3" square corners with the planks
screwed to these using decking screws. You will also need a post in the
middle of the long sides otherwise the weight of the soil will bow them out.
We knocked our posts and centre supports about 12" into the ground before
screwing the planks in place. Keep a couple of short lengths of plank to put
across the bed - you can lean or kneel on these when weeding the centre to
make it more comfortable.

One of my cold frames had a wide angle-iron belted into the ground at
each corner, allowing the boards to slot in.

The idea was to raise it by adding more boards as the melons grew, and
that was fine, except that because the hinge had to be forward of the
back board a bit, you had to remove the lid and the back board and slip
another beneath it.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/