Controlling moss
 

Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.


Cheers - Joe

Controlling moss
 

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.


I doubt it, if the conditions are right, then just like arnie, it will be
back :-)

--
Tumbleweed

Remove my socks for email address

Controlling moss
 

Joe McElvenney wrote in message ...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

It's lovely: if that's what nature wants to do, I'd say let it, and
give praise for a beautiful background.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.

I reckon history will repeat itself (as farce, of course)! If it's the
habitat for moss, then moss you will have. Physical brushing off is as
good as you can do, really; I loved the mossy look of a side yard, but
one day when we were selling, my boy attacked it with shovel and
yard-broom, and a whole compost-heap later I had to admit it did look
more organised (and strangely bigger: like mowing a lawn). One
control, as for green slime, is cheap dairy hypochlorite (aka bleach)
from the nearest farmers' supplier. Dilute about ten to one, and wear
the oldest clothes and Marigolds (butch versions of these also from
the farmers'place); but I wouldn't bother, left to myself. The
25-litre squarish 'cans' saw in half to a nice size for tomatoes as a
bonus, or you can cut just the bottoms off and use them to bring
rhubarb on.

Mike.

Controlling moss
 

Hi,

You're right I'm sure - nature will out and there isn't
a lot I can do about it. I'll tidy up just a bit now though
and then put it on the list of occasional chores.


Cheers - Joe

Controlling moss
 

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really good.

Ann

Controlling moss
 

"Mike Lyle" wrote in message
om...
Joe McElvenney wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

It's lovely: if that's what nature wants to do, I'd say let it, and
give praise for a beautiful background.

Gardening is all about bending nature to do what you approve of.
If, like mine, your garden is totally overrun with moss on all walls
and beds every season, you, too, would feel less benign towards it.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.

I reckon history will repeat itself (as farce, of course)! If it's
the
habitat for moss, then moss you will have. Physical brushing off is
as
good as you can do, really; I loved the mossy look of a side yard,
but
one day when we were selling, my boy attacked it with shovel and
yard-broom, and a whole compost-heap later I had to admit it did
look
more organised (and strangely bigger: like mowing a lawn). One
control, as for green slime, is cheap dairy hypochlorite (aka
bleach)
from the nearest farmers' supplier. Dilute about ten to one, and
wear
the oldest clothes and Marigolds (butch versions of these also from
the farmers'place); but I wouldn't bother, left to myself. The
25-litre squarish 'cans' saw in half to a nice size for tomatoes as
a
bonus, or you can cut just the bottoms off and use them to bring
rhubarb on.

Mike.

Controlling moss
 

"Ann" wrote in message
...

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and
patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really
good.

That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the
beds that way.

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Franz

Controlling moss
 

In article ,
"Franz Heymann" writes:
|
| That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
| succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the
| beds that way.
|
| I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
| indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
| fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
| truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Quite. It is an indicator of near-continual damp, sometimes caused
by shade. It rakes off beds very easily, and can then be used for
all the things that you use moss for.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Controlling moss
 

On 5/4/04 3:38 AM, in article , "Franz
Heymann" wrote:


"Ann" wrote in message
...

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and
patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really
good.

That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the
beds that way.

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Franz


I fortunately have a local source of chicken manure. It comes mixed with
sawdust. It is dry but ripe! I get a load in the winter and just throw it
all over my lawn...I can just see some of you cringing! :) Yes, it does
stink...I call it farm fresh air! :)
I live in an area that gets lots of rain in the winter and the rain
washes the manure into the ground and the grass grows over and through it.
The odd clump of manure that doesn't break down I solve by putting on my
West Coast cowboy boots (rubber boots) and boot (kick) the clumps into
submission! The clumps of manure, once kicked, spread out and eventually
disappear as the grass starts to grow in the spring.
I had moss growing strongly in one area and I put an extra amount of
this sawdusty manure on that area. It looked terrible for a time but now no
moss and the grass is growing green and well.
The nurseryman was probably right about poor soil but if there is no
grass under the moss how can the grass take over and obliterate the moss?
I have heard that the only way (other than my way with stinky sawdusty
manure) is to cover the moss with an inch + - of sand. This smothers the
moss and any grass below will grow through the sand. The grass does need
nutrients to grow strongly. (To ensure you have enough nutrients in the
soil throw a big party. Supply free beer to all your male friends and have
them....broadcast the end results in the chosen mossy area. Or a slower, but
equally effective way, drink the beer yourself and follow the above
suggestion. It works...don't ask me how I know). :)
Gary
Fort Langley, BC
Canada

Controlling moss
 

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?
I removed all of it recently while weeding (tons of weed) but I think I will
be happy to see it come back to stay. It is helpful in keeping the moisture
sealed in and green is better than black. I am now moving leave mulch to
spread over the bare patches of soil, let the worms do the fertilising.

Caroline

Controlling moss
 

"Caroline" wrote in message
...

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of
the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well.
Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?

Probably a sign of poorly draining soil, in a shady spot.
--
Nick Wagg

Controlling moss
 

The message
from "Caroline" contains these words:

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised.

He was ripping off the OP.

Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?

No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on acid
moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out.

Janet.

Controlling moss
 

"Janet Baraclough.." wrote in message
...

snip

No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on acid
moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out.

Janet.

Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a
while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my
acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come
out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The
soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss
spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in
the winter...

Bob

Controlling moss
 

In article ,
"Bob" writes:
|
| Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a
| while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my
| acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come
| out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The
| soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss
| spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in
| the winter...

Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the
UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses
that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils'
so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient
damp.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Controlling moss
 

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"Bob" writes:
|
| Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for
a
| while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and
my
| acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always
come
| out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them.
The
| soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss
| spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat
in
| the winter...

Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the
UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses
that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils'
so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient
damp.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Well they certainly grow well enough on my asphalt path, and I'd class that
as a poor soil!

I didn't think the lawn was badly drained, though. There are two chusan
palms that don't seem to mind living in it (even though there is clay about
a foot down)

It never seems squelchy, and there are plenty of ants and worms keeping
things nice and airy. Half of it is shady though, and that is where most of
the moss seems to be - the sunny half is all clover (I wish I knew of some
nice chemical that would kill that off!)

Bob

Controlling moss
 

"gary davis" wrote in message
...
On 5/4/04 3:38 AM, in article ,
"Franz
Heymann" wrote:


"Ann" wrote in message
...

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives
and
patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really
good.

That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in
the
beds that way.

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was
an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result:
A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Franz


I fortunately have a local source of chicken manure. It comes
mixed with
sawdust. It is dry but ripe! I get a load in the winter and just
throw it
all over my lawn...I can just see some of you cringing! :) Yes, it
does
stink...I call it farm fresh air! :)
I live in an area that gets lots of rain in the winter and the
rain
washes the manure into the ground and the grass grows over and
through it.
The odd clump of manure that doesn't break down I solve by putting
on my
West Coast cowboy boots (rubber boots) and boot (kick) the clumps
into
submission! The clumps of manure, once kicked, spread out and
eventually
disappear as the grass starts to grow in the spring.
I had moss growing strongly in one area and I put an extra
amount of
this sawdusty manure on that area. It looked terrible for a time but
now no
moss and the grass is growing green and well.
The nurseryman was probably right about poor soil but if there
is no
grass under the moss how can the grass take over and obliterate the
moss?

I have no lawns in my garden. The only grass I have is unwanted weeds
in the wrong places. I fight to get rid of that as well. The moss
infestation of which I speak is moss covering bare soil areas in my
flower and shrub beds, and a truly vast forest of it on my dry stone
walls.

I have heard that the only way (other than my way with stinky
sawdusty
manure) is to cover the moss with an inch + - of sand. This smothers
the
moss and any grass below will grow through the sand. The grass does
need
nutrients to grow strongly. (To ensure you have enough nutrients in
the
soil throw a big party. Supply free beer to all your male friends
and have
them....broadcast the end results in the chosen mossy area. Or a
slower, but
equally effective way, drink the beer yourself and follow the above
suggestion. It works...don't ask me how I know). :)

I will try giving my moss chicken pellets for lunch. I wonder whether
an infusion of that stuff, watered on the walls, will help.
Roll on a dry day so that I can try it out.

Franz

Controlling moss
 

big snip

It always helps to have more information about a problem in order to
offer corrective (hopefully) suggestions. I could have misread your original
post also.
So, the moss you have is growing on bare soil (and not on the lawn)
between flowers and such. A question:
Have you tried turning the moss over so that it is buried? I would
think the deeper (within reason) the better. Moss does like acid soils and
one would think that by adding some lime to the soil after turn in would
help.
If for some reason you cannot turn the moss over then try covering it
with sand. The moss must be totally covered. I can almost
guarrantee....guarranttee...that this will work but I can't even spell
guarrantee...:)
I don't think that moss can be eradicated simply by adding fertilizer.
Except maybe in my case where the grass grows higher. It's a combination of
things...and each case has it's own corrective solution.
Good luck,
Gary
Fort Langley BC
Canada

I will try giving my moss chicken pellets for lunch. I wonder whether
an infusion of that stuff, watered on the walls, will help.
Roll on a dry day so that I can try it out.

Franz

Controlling moss
 

"gary davis" wrote in message
...
big snip

It always helps to have more information about a problem in
order to
offer corrective (hopefully) suggestions. I could have misread your
original
post also.
So, the moss you have is growing on bare soil (and not on the
lawn)
between flowers and such.

Yes.

A question:
Have you tried turning the moss over so that it is buried?

Yes. It gives temporary relief.

I would
think the deeper (within reason) the better.

I cannot go deep at all, since my topsoil is barely 6" above shattered
sandstone bedrock

Moss does like acid soils and
one would think that by adding some lime to the soil after turn in
would
help.

My soil is somewhat acid, but not remarkably so. I have been keeping
a couple of patches thoroughly limed for growing Dianthus. The moss
problem is not significantly better there.

If for some reason you cannot turn the moss over then try
covering it
with sand. The moss must be totally covered. I can almost
guarrantee....guarranttee...that this will work but I can't even
spell
guarrantee...:)

One "r". {:-))
At my age, covering the garden with an inch or more of sand is not an
option.

I don't think that moss can be eradicated simply by adding
fertilizer.
Except maybe in my case where the grass grows higher. It's a
combination of
things...and each case has it's own corrective solution.

I have now found a chemical which looks as if it is going to be
helpful:
"Algon". Sold as an "organic algae control". The bottle claims it is
good for eradicating algae, moss and lichen. I have ried it on an
algae -infested drive. It worked a dream. I have tried it on a
substantial patch of moss on a stone wall, and it has killed the moss.
I hope the effect will be long lasting!

Unfortunately the bottle carries no information at all about the
nature of the active ingredient.
Does anyone in urg have any experience of it?

I will try giving my moss chicken pellets for lunch. I wonder
whether
an infusion of that stuff, watered on the walls, will help.
Roll on a dry day so that I can try it out.

Franz

Controlling moss
 

"Janet Baraclough.." wrote in
message ...
The message
from "Caroline" contains these words:

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was
an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised.

He was ripping off the OP.

Actually no. He may have given me bad advice, but he has never tried
to rip me off in 14 years of dealing with him.

Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first
half of the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really
well. Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?

No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on
acid
moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out.

It also grows luxuriantly on my dry stone walls.

Franz

Controlling moss
 

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"Bob" writes:
|
| Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my
soil for a
| while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias
(acid?), and my
| acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas
always come
| out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought
them. The
| soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of
moss
| spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick
spongy coat in
| the winter...

Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the
UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses
that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils'
so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient
damp.

My dry stone walls and my macadamised drive are not all that damp.
{:-))

Franz

Controlling moss
 

On 5/7/04 9:40 AM, in article , "Franz
Heymann" wrote:


"gary davis" wrote in message
...
big snip

It always helps to have more information about a problem in
order to
offer corrective (hopefully) suggestions. I could have misread your
original
post also.
So, the moss you have is growing on bare soil (and not on the
lawn)
between flowers and such.

Yes.

A question:
Have you tried turning the moss over so that it is buried?

Yes. It gives temporary relief.

I would
think the deeper (within reason) the better.

I cannot go deep at all, since my topsoil is barely 6" above shattered
sandstone bedrock

Moss does like acid soils and
one would think that by adding some lime to the soil after turn in
would
help.

My soil is somewhat acid, but not remarkably so. I have been keeping
a couple of patches thoroughly limed for growing Dianthus. The moss
problem is not significantly better there.

If for some reason you cannot turn the moss over then try
covering it
with sand. The moss must be totally covered. I can almost
guarrantee....guarranttee...that this will work but I can't even
spell
guarrantee...:)

One "r". {:-))
At my age, covering the garden with an inch or more of sand is not an
option.

I don't think that moss can be eradicated simply by adding
fertilizer.
Except maybe in my case where the grass grows higher. It's a
combination of
things...and each case has it's own corrective solution.

I have now found a chemical which looks as if it is going to be
helpful:
"Algon". Sold as an "organic algae control". The bottle claims it is
good for eradicating algae, moss and lichen. I have ried it on an
algae -infested drive. It worked a dream. I have tried it on a
substantial patch of moss on a stone wall, and it has killed the moss.
I hope the effect will be long lasting!

Unfortunately the bottle carries no information at all about the
nature of the active ingredient.
Does anyone in urg have any experience of it?

I will try giving my moss chicken pellets for lunch. I wonder
whether
an infusion of that stuff, watered on the walls, will help.
Roll on a dry day so that I can try it out.

Franz
Hi Franz
As I said before it is important to know all, or as much information as
possible, in order to provide the proper information to help try to solve a
gardening problem.
Thanks for the clarification of the spelling of guarantee...I do have
trouble with words like that. I won't anymore with guarrantee...I mean
guarantee. :)
So you are trying to keep up with the Joneses when your soil is only 6"
deep! Wow, now that is a challenge. And you have a moss problem that turning
over gives temporary relief. You can't add 1" inch of sand because of your
age?
Surely, you must be joking! 6" of soil and you are wondering why you
can't keep up to your friends success in growing plants? Can you tell me how
deep their soil is?
Well, I'll take your story at face value and tell you that you need more
soil. I'll send you some...it will contain some bs but not more than you can
handle. Good luck
Gary
Fort Langley BC
Canada