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#1
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Controlling moss
Hi,
I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. Is there a preparation that will keep it down without seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will be history. Cheers - Joe |
#2
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Controlling moss
"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message ... Hi, I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. Is there a preparation that will keep it down without seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will be history. I doubt it, if the conditions are right, then just like arnie, it will be back :-) -- Tumbleweed Remove my socks for email address |
#3
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Controlling moss
Joe McElvenney wrote in message ...
Hi, I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. It's lovely: if that's what nature wants to do, I'd say let it, and give praise for a beautiful background. Is there a preparation that will keep it down without seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will be history. I reckon history will repeat itself (as farce, of course)! If it's the habitat for moss, then moss you will have. Physical brushing off is as good as you can do, really; I loved the mossy look of a side yard, but one day when we were selling, my boy attacked it with shovel and yard-broom, and a whole compost-heap later I had to admit it did look more organised (and strangely bigger: like mowing a lawn). One control, as for green slime, is cheap dairy hypochlorite (aka bleach) from the nearest farmers' supplier. Dilute about ten to one, and wear the oldest clothes and Marigolds (butch versions of these also from the farmers'place); but I wouldn't bother, left to myself. The 25-litre squarish 'cans' saw in half to a nice size for tomatoes as a bonus, or you can cut just the bottoms off and use them to bring rhubarb on. Mike. |
#4
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Controlling moss
Hi,
You're right I'm sure - nature will out and there isn't a lot I can do about it. I'll tidy up just a bit now though and then put it on the list of occasional chores. Cheers - Joe |
#5
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Controlling moss
"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message ... Hi, I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and patios - beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really good. Ann |
#6
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Controlling moss
"Mike Lyle" wrote in message om... Joe McElvenney wrote in message ... Hi, I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. It's lovely: if that's what nature wants to do, I'd say let it, and give praise for a beautiful background. Gardening is all about bending nature to do what you approve of. If, like mine, your garden is totally overrun with moss on all walls and beds every season, you, too, would feel less benign towards it. Is there a preparation that will keep it down without seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will be history. I reckon history will repeat itself (as farce, of course)! If it's the habitat for moss, then moss you will have. Physical brushing off is as good as you can do, really; I loved the mossy look of a side yard, but one day when we were selling, my boy attacked it with shovel and yard-broom, and a whole compost-heap later I had to admit it did look more organised (and strangely bigger: like mowing a lawn). One control, as for green slime, is cheap dairy hypochlorite (aka bleach) from the nearest farmers' supplier. Dilute about ten to one, and wear the oldest clothes and Marigolds (butch versions of these also from the farmers'place); but I wouldn't bother, left to myself. The 25-litre squarish 'cans' saw in half to a nice size for tomatoes as a bonus, or you can cut just the bottoms off and use them to bring rhubarb on. Mike. |
#7
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Controlling moss
"Ann" wrote in message ... "Joe McElvenney" wrote in message ... Hi, I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and patios - beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really good. That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the beds that way. I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds. Franz |
#8
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Controlling moss
In article , "Franz Heymann" writes: | | That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the | succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the | beds that way. | | I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an | indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more | fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A | truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds. Quite. It is an indicator of near-continual damp, sometimes caused by shade. It rakes off beds very easily, and can then be used for all the things that you use moss for. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#9
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Controlling moss
On 5/4/04 3:38 AM, in article , "Franz
Heymann" wrote: "Ann" wrote in message ... "Joe McElvenney" wrote in message ... Hi, I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain rustic charm when in the right place and quantity. I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and patios - beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really good. That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the beds that way. I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds. Franz I fortunately have a local source of chicken manure. It comes mixed with sawdust. It is dry but ripe! I get a load in the winter and just throw it all over my lawn...I can just see some of you cringing! Yes, it does stink...I call it farm fresh air! I live in an area that gets lots of rain in the winter and the rain washes the manure into the ground and the grass grows over and through it. The odd clump of manure that doesn't break down I solve by putting on my West Coast cowboy boots (rubber boots) and boot (kick) the clumps into submission! The clumps of manure, once kicked, spread out and eventually disappear as the grass starts to grow in the spring. I had moss growing strongly in one area and I put an extra amount of this sawdusty manure on that area. It looked terrible for a time but now no moss and the grass is growing green and well. The nurseryman was probably right about poor soil but if there is no grass under the moss how can the grass take over and obliterate the moss? I have heard that the only way (other than my way with stinky sawdusty manure) is to cover the moss with an inch + - of sand. This smothers the moss and any grass below will grow through the sand. The grass does need nutrients to grow strongly. (To ensure you have enough nutrients in the soil throw a big party. Supply free beer to all your male friends and have them....broadcast the end results in the chosen mossy area. Or a slower, but equally effective way, drink the beer yourself and follow the above suggestion. It works...don't ask me how I know). Gary Fort Langley, BC Canada |
#10
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Controlling moss
I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds. I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is moss truly a sign of a poor soil? I removed all of it recently while weeding (tons of weed) but I think I will be happy to see it come back to stay. It is helpful in keeping the moisture sealed in and green is better than black. I am now moving leave mulch to spread over the bare patches of soil, let the worms do the fertilising. Caroline |
#11
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Controlling moss
"Caroline" wrote in message
... I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is moss truly a sign of a poor soil? Probably a sign of poorly draining soil, in a shady spot. -- Nick Wagg |
#12
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Controlling moss
The message
from "Caroline" contains these words: I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. He was ripping off the OP. Result: A truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds. I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is moss truly a sign of a poor soil? No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on acid moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out. Janet. |
#13
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Controlling moss
"Janet Baraclough.." wrote in message ... snip No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on acid moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out. Janet. Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in the winter... Bob |
#14
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Controlling moss
In article , "Bob" writes: | | Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a | while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my | acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come | out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The | soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss | spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in | the winter... Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils' so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient damp. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#15
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Controlling moss
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , "Bob" writes: | | Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a | while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my | acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come | out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The | soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss | spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in | the winter... Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils' so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient damp. Regards, Nick Maclaren. Well they certainly grow well enough on my asphalt path, and I'd class that as a poor soil! I didn't think the lawn was badly drained, though. There are two chusan palms that don't seem to mind living in it (even though there is clay about a foot down) It never seems squelchy, and there are plenty of ants and worms keeping things nice and airy. Half of it is shady though, and that is where most of the moss seems to be - the sunny half is all clover (I wish I knew of some nice chemical that would kill that off!) Bob |
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