Camellia Mary Williams
 

This year my husband gave me a Camellia Mary Williams, it was in flower
so I left it in a the pot intending to plant it out into the garden this
autumn. However clumsy old me had a fight with a kinked hose pipe and
the pot containing the camellia got knocked off the wall. Three long
branches got snapped off,can I use them,if I pot them up will they grow
? advice would be appreciated

clumsy Kate

Camellia Mary Williams
 

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:09:23 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote:

This year my husband gave me a Camellia Mary Williams, it was in flower
so I left it in a the pot intending to plant it out into the garden this
autumn. However clumsy old me had a fight with a kinked hose pipe and
the pot containing the camellia got knocked off the wall. Three long
branches got snapped off,can I use them,if I pot them up will they grow
? advice would be appreciated

clumsy Kate

Camellia cuttings are best made with semi-ripe shoots of current
year's growth, 3 or 4 inches long. They can be slow and reluctant to
root. If there are any such shoots on these branches (and you've kept
the branches in water since the accident), you could try rooting them,
but I think success is unlikely as they probably won't be ripe enough
yet.

I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since
being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early
autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with
camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or
even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed
with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a
month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft
water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for
example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering
can is the next best thing.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net

Camellia Mary Williams
 

snip

I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since
being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early
autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with
camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or
even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed
with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a
month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft
water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for
example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering
can is the next best thing.

Chris, thank you for all that information

I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the
broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely
that they will root but it is well worth a try

thanks again

kate

Camellia Mary Williams
 

On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 19:34:26 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote:

I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the
broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely
that they will root but it is well worth a try

Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail.
Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and
carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that
you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound
(powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of
equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with
a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of
wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct
sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring
if you're lucky.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net

Camellia Mary Williams
 

Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail.
Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and
carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that
you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound
(powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of
equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with
a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of
wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct
sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring
if you're lucky.

Thanks once again, have followed instructions and will be hoping for the
best next Spring,it`s worth a try :-)

kate

Camellia Mary Williams
 

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:09:23 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote:

This year my husband gave me a Camellia Mary Williams, it was in flower
so I left it in a the pot intending to plant it out into the garden this
autumn. However clumsy old me had a fight with a kinked hose pipe and
the pot containing the camellia got knocked off the wall. Three long
branches got snapped off,can I use them,if I pot them up will they grow
? advice would be appreciated

clumsy Kate

Camellia cuttings are best made with semi-ripe shoots of current
year's growth, 3 or 4 inches long. They can be slow and reluctant to
root. If there are any such shoots on these branches (and you've kept
the branches in water since the accident), you could try rooting them,
but I think success is unlikely as they probably won't be ripe enough
yet.

I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since
being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early
autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with
camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or
even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed
with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a
month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft
water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for
example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering
can is the next best thing.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net

Camellia Mary Williams
 

snip

I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since
being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early
autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with
camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or
even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed
with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a
month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft
water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for
example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering
can is the next best thing.

Chris, thank you for all that information

I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the
broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely
that they will root but it is well worth a try

thanks again

kate

Camellia Mary Williams
 

On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 19:34:26 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote:

I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the
broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely
that they will root but it is well worth a try

Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail.
Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and
carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that
you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound
(powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of
equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with
a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of
wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct
sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring
if you're lucky.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net

Camellia Mary Williams
 

Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail.
Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and
carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that
you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound
(powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of
equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with
a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of
wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct
sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring
if you're lucky.

Thanks once again, have followed instructions and will be hoping for the
best next Spring,it`s worth a try :-)

kate