Trees in pots
I have purchased a few small trees. Some of them are evergreen (Eucalyptus).
Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? |
Trees in pots
"Gadget Git" wrote in message
... I have purchased a few small trees. Some of them are evergreen (Eucalyptus). Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? I kept a small Eucalyptus outdoors in a pot for two years before planting it at our new house. It got a bit pot bound but otherwise it was fine. If you do eventually plant it, be warned that it will grow very big very quickly - so pick the right spot for it! Drakanthus. |
Trees in pots
"Gadget Git" wrote in message ... I have purchased a few small trees. Some of them are evergreen (Eucalyptus). Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? I've got several trees in pots. An oak, a couple of evergreen pine trees, etc etc. They have been in their various pots for several years and are doing fine. Jenny |
Trees in pots
Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a
wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? They may well need the odd drop of water from time to time as any passageway is likely to be rather dry for them. You might want to consider standing the pot on a tray that can be kept topped up with water from time to time. Dave. |
Trees in pots
"DaveDay34" wrote in message ... Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? They may well need the odd drop of water from time to time as any passageway is likely to be rather dry for them. You might want to consider standing the pot on a tray that can be kept topped up with water from time to time. Dave. Just be careful that they don't freeze solid..........:~( Jenny |
Trees in pots
Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? They may well need the odd drop of water from time to time as any passageway is likely to be rather dry for them. You might want to consider standing the pot on a tray that can be kept topped up with water from time to time. Dave. If you stand them in a tray they could very easily rot at the roots. I stand my pots ( all year round on ) old carpet, I find this reduces the amount of watering they need. -- Art Swap seeds at Garden Web http://www.gardenweb.com My Garden Web exchange page http://www.gardenweb.com/members/exch/art1952 |
Trees in pots
The last thing you want is for them to be standing in water.
Regards, Emrys Davies. "DaveDay34" wrote in message ... Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? They may well need the odd drop of water from time to time as any passageway is likely to be rather dry for them. You might want to consider standing the pot on a tray that can be kept topped up with water from time to time. Dave. |
Trees in pots
The last thing you want is for them to be standing in water.
Regards, Emrys Davies. Several people have commented that if the pots are standing in water it will rot the roots, etc. I thought it went without saying that the pots should be deep enough, and the water level low enough for the compost/soil to draw up the required amount of water to prevent the plants from drying out, while not becomming waterlogged. It appears that it should have been said, and I appologise for not saying it in the first place. Most medium to large sized pots stood in an inch of water or less will not become waterlogged and it will prevent the plant in the pot from drying out. I hope things are a little clearer now (?). Dave. |
Trees in pots
"Gadget Git" wrote in message ... I have purchased a few small trees. Some of them are evergreen (Eucalyptus). Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? You don't say where you stay, but up here in the frozen north (Aberdeen) I'd be worried about the pots freezing as some others have pointed out - if they are at all root bound, you could at least give them another size up for a pot - and thus add some protection to the root ball. Chris S |
Trees in pots
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Trees in pots
"DaveDay34" wrote .. The last thing you want is for them to be standing in water. Regards, Emrys Davies. Several people have commented that if the pots are standing in water it will rot the roots, etc. I thought it went without saying that the pots should be deep enough, and the water level low enough for the compost/soil to draw up the required amount of water to prevent the plants from drying out, while not becomming waterlogged. It appears that it should have been said, and I appologise for not saying it in the first place. Most medium to large sized pots stood in an inch of water or less will not become waterlogged and it will prevent the plant in the pot from drying out. I hope things are a little clearer now (?). Dave. Standing the pots in reservoirs in summer is a brilliant idea, but maybe not so good during the winter months :~)) You can wrap the pots in bubble wrap to decrease the risk of the rootball freezing. I then wrap an old bamboo type beach mat around the bubble wrap. this gives even more protection and looks nice too :~) Jenny |
Trees in pots
On Thu, 14 Nov 2002 20:01:39 +0000 (UTC), "Gadget Git"
wrote: I have purchased a few small trees. Some of them are evergreen (Eucalyptus). Is there any harm in leaving them in their supplied black plastic pots in a wind-sheltered passage way over the winter where I can look at them out of the kitchen window? Sink the pots into the ground for the winter, someplace that isn't soaking wet. Don't leave them too long in the ground come spring, or roots will find their way out of the drain holes and into the surrounding soil. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada |
Trees in pots
Have you ever noticed that when you water a pot and the water runs out
of the bottom of the pot into a tray, you can be surprised when you look moments later to find that the tray no longer has any water in it? Osmosis will operate until all the soil is truly saturated. Respect Hussein Osmosis doesn't operate until all the soil is saturated. Different soils will hold differing amounts of water (Field Capacity). I think the advice I gave was accurate given that it was general advice. To give specific advice I'd have to know hugely more about the trees/pots involved and their position, etc. than I do at present. The original concern was about water requirements, as far as I can remember. If there are concerns about freezing, then that's another point entirely. If osmosis is going to lead to waterlogging, then you've got serious problems with your growing medium. Most soils/growing mediums that are any good at all will not become waterlogged when a large pot (it is a trees/trees we're talking about here) are stood in shallow trays with a little water in. Osmosis just isn't that efficient, and has it's limits. Unless the pot receives rain or is watered from the top, the top layer of soil/growing medium is unlikely to be wet, let alone waterlogged. Watering in the way I suggested has several benefits. It doesn't wash nutrients through the soil/growing medium and out the bottom of the pot (leaching) as watering from above does. The plant is encouraged to send roots downwards and should therefore have a better root structure. The plant is unlikely to suffer from fluctuations between drought and having plenty of water that can occur with sporadic watering. If someone wants further details I'd be happy to answer any questions. If I don't know about something, I don't give answers. If my answers are not detailed enough, I'll happily give fuller explanations. A good start for gardeners who want to better understand plants would be to invest in a copy of Principles of Horticulture, published by Butterworth Heinemann. They have a web site at www.bh.com. The book is very readable and easy to understand. It explains many aspects of plant biology and soil science and I'd recommend it. Dave. |
Trees in pots
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Trees in pots
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Trees in pots
"Rodger Whitlock" wrote in message ... On 19 Nov 2002 20:36:25 GMT, (DaveDay34) wrote: it? Osmosis will operate until all the soil is truly saturated. Osmosis doesn't operate until all the soil is saturated. You are both confusing osmosis with capillarity. It's capillary attraction that causes a pot standing in 1/2" of water to become waterlogged, not osmosis. Rodger Whitlock Fascinating stuff this and I think you are right Rodger :~)) Found the folllowing at various places : Capillarity is the ability of a soil to draw water upward into tiny spaces between soil grains; water moves upward against the force of gravity because of the attraction between water molecules & the surfaces of the soil particles. osmosis : http://www.tvdsb.on.ca/westmin/scien...ls/Osmosis.htm And just to confuse the issue even more there is also reverse osmosis .....http://www.howstuffworks.com/question29.htm Jenny :~) |
Trees in pots
In article , Rodger Whitlock
writes On 19 Nov 2002 20:36:25 GMT, (DaveDay34) wrote: it? Osmosis will operate until all the soil is truly saturated. Osmosis doesn't operate until all the soil is saturated. You are both confusing osmosis with capillarity. It's capillary attraction that causes a pot standing in 1/2" of water to become waterlogged, not osmosis. To expand on that - osmosis is what happens when you have something - for argument's sake, say salt - dissolved in water (or other liquid). If you dump some salt in water, it diffuses across the whole lot so that the strength of the solution is the uniform - you don't get a strong salt solution where you dumped the salt and pure water elsewhere. But if there is a barrier dividing the water into two, and this barrier is such that water can get through but salt can't, the tendency is still to try to even out the strength of the solution across the barrier, but the only way this can happen is for water to go through the barrier from the dilute side to the concentrated side. This is osmosis. Capilliary action is the tendency for water to seep from wet area to dry area - which can happen upwards if the route for seepage is small - eg it's between the particles of soil. -- Kay Easton Edward's earthworm page: http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/garden/ |
Trees in pots
"JennyC" wrote in message ... "Rodger Whitlock" wrote in message ... On 19 Nov 2002 20:36:25 GMT, (DaveDay34) wrote: it? Osmosis will operate until all the soil is truly saturated. Osmosis doesn't operate until all the soil is saturated. You are both confusing osmosis with capillarity. It's capillary attraction that causes a pot standing in 1/2" of water to become waterlogged, not osmosis. Rodger Whitlock Fascinating stuff this and I think you are right Rodger :~)) Found the folllowing at various places : Capillarity is the ability of a soil to draw water upward into tiny spaces between soil grains; water moves upward against the force of gravity because of the attraction between water molecules & the surfaces of the soil particles. osmosis : http://www.tvdsb.on.ca/westmin/scien...ls/Osmosis.htm And just to confuse the issue even more there is also reverse osmosis ....http://www.howstuffworks.com/question29.htm Jenny :~) Reverse osmosis is what was used to turn sea water into potable water, when I worked offshore. Cunning stuff them osmosis. Chris S )) |
Trees in pots
On Wed, 20 Nov 2002 12:36:24 +0000, Kay Easton
wrote: But if there is a barrier dividing the water into two, and this barrier is such that water can get through but salt can't, the tendency is still to try to even out the strength of the solution across the barrier, but the only way this can happen is for water to go through the barrier from the dilute side to the concentrated side. This is osmosis. Capilliary action is the tendency for water to seep from wet area to dry area - which can happen upwards if the route for seepage is small - eg it's between the particles of soil. Yup, I got the wrong term. At school I believe they called it capillary action. Anyhoo, I wouldn't want to stand a pot in water unless it there was some charcoal or something else to sweeten the water. It could get very fetid otherwise and full of nasties. Hussein |
Trees in pots
Sorry about confusing capillary and osmosis. I think I understood the jist of
what Hussein was saying and carried on using the same term, when I should have corrected the term. Dave. |
Trees in pots
In article , Hussein M.
writes On Wed, 20 Nov 2002 12:36:24 +0000, Kay Easton wrote: But if there is a barrier dividing the water into two, and this barrier is such that water can get through but salt can't, the tendency is still to try to even out the strength of the solution across the barrier, but the only way this can happen is for water to go through the barrier from the dilute side to the concentrated side. This is osmosis. Capilliary action is the tendency for water to seep from wet area to dry area - which can happen upwards if the route for seepage is small - eg it's between the particles of soil. Yup, I got the wrong term. At school I believe they called it capillary action. Anyhoo, I wouldn't want to stand a pot in water unless it there was some charcoal or something else to sweeten the water. It could get very fetid otherwise and full of nasties. Blanket weed is what I get, in the water surrounding my posts of sundews and butterworts. But they don't seem to mind :-) -- Kay Easton Edward's earthworm page: http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/garden/ |
Trees in pots
On Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:33:42 -0000, "Chris Stewart"
wrote: ...Cunning stuff them osmosis. I have a slightly used osmosi that you can have for a song if you want it... ObReportFromTheColonies: After a week or so of pretty steady rain, varying in intensity from drizzle to downpour, the temperature has gone up and the sun has come out today. It's shirtsleeve weather, it's so mild. Galanthus reginae-olgae is coming into flower. Crocus speciosus 'Albus' is providing surprises under a now leafless canopy of Ribes sanguieum and Chaenomeles, while other crocus species (longiflorus? niveus?) pop up here and there. A single stray, late Nerine bowdenii, and a few stems of Nerine crispa. The first flower of Iris unguicularis. A few seed pots sown last January are showing signs of germination. The Quercus robur continues to shed its leaves in a sedate and repeatedly eavestrough-filling manner. In the crocus frame, Cc. laevigatus, goulimyi, caspius (?), and tournefortii are doing their thing. Four of five seedlings of Cyclamen rohlfsianum have sent out new growth; Cc. cyprium and creticum in pots are leafing out also. On the whole, an extremely pleasant day! -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada |
Trees in pots
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