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#1
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How DOES one obtain a billiard table surface prior to sowing a lawn?
I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The
builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. I want to get the most even lawn possible. I am raking and rolling, and it's kind of level, but with pockets and gullies. When I fill these, rake and roll over, I tend to get humps instead. How do the pros do it? I would think the only certain way would be to use formers and a tamping beam as if one were preparing a sand bed for a driveway, then finally loosening the surface before actual sowing. Any hints, web site referrals etc most welcome. MM |
#2
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I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The
Is that, 75 metres square or 75 square metres? and no they are NOT the same Mike |
#3
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Mike wrote:
I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The Is that, 75 metres square or 75 square metres? and no they are NOT the same Mike Either way, it usually takes about four hundred years of careful attention. I don't think there's any secret to it: you just have to keep on breaking down the lumps and picking out the stones, I'm afraid. Then let it settle for a month or more, and weed and rake it all again. Once you've got the nice tilth, it's better not to roll, but to shuffle over the whole thing bit by bit: one book says "in the manner of an old-age pensioner on black ice"! You should make yourself a thing whose name I've forgotten, but which is a six-foot plank with a long broom-handle in the middle: you drag this over and over the tilth to level it. After sowing, over the next couple of years, uneven bits will probably appear, to be dealt with in the usual way: they aren't your fault. I don't know if the following website will tell you anything you don't know already: http://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/grass.htm -- Mike. |
#4
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rotavate
rake roll repeat it'll be flat |
#5
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In message , MM
writes I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. I want to get the most even lawn possible. I am raking and rolling, and it's kind of level, but with pockets and gullies. When I fill these, rake and roll over, I tend to get humps instead. Some years ago (1998/1999 maybe) a then regular poster to urg, Paul Womack aka Bugbear posted a whole series of posts about his attempt to create such lawn. Google Groups is your friend here. -- Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds urg Suppliers and References FAQ: http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html |
#6
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Some years ago (1998/1999 maybe) a then regular poster to urg, Paul Womack aka Bugbear posted a whole series of posts about his attempt to create such lawn. Search in uk.rec.gardening for "rebuilding a lawn" Marcus |
#7
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On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 22:21:17 +0000, Chris French and Helen Johnson
wrote: In message , MM writes I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. I want to get the most even lawn possible. I am raking and rolling, and it's kind of level, but with pockets and gullies. When I fill these, rake and roll over, I tend to get humps instead. Some years ago (1998/1999 maybe) a then regular poster to urg, Paul Womack aka Bugbear posted a whole series of posts about his attempt to create such lawn. Google Groups is your friend here. Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds urg Suppliers and References FAQ: http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html Thanks, Chris, Helen. That URL returns Error 404, by the way, and the main site address www.familyfrench.co.uk returns the message: "This site is currently inactive." MM |
#8
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In message , MM
writes On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 22:21:17 +0000, Chris French and Helen Johnson wrote: urg Suppliers and References FAQ: http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html Thanks, Chris, Helen. That URL returns Error 404, by the way, Ahhhh, that'd be because it isn't there..... Had problems with the webserver a while back and took a load of stuff down, I thought I'd put it back up , obviously not :-( TBH, it's probably so out of date now anyway..... and the main site address www.familyfrench.co.uk returns the message: "This site is currently inactive." Don't believe everything you read, my web server seems to give that message if there is not a 'index.html' file in the root directory. It's all hiding :-) One day I'll sort it out. -- Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds urg Suppliers and References FAQ: http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html |
#9
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"MM" wrote in message
... I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. I want to get the most even lawn possible. I am raking and rolling, and it's kind of level, but with pockets and gullies. When I fill these, rake and roll over, I tend to get humps instead. How do the pros do it? I would think the only certain way would be to use formers and a tamping beam as if one were preparing a sand bed for a driveway, then finally loosening the surface before actual sowing. Any hints, web site referrals etc most welcome. MM I've seen the experts using something which looks like a large ( 1m x 2m ) wooden frame with a handle attached to the centre so it pivots. You then drag that over the area much as you would with a rake, but being much larger it gives a much more even result. -- Martin & Anna Sykes ( Remove x's when replying ) http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~sykesm |
#10
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Martin Sykes wrote:
"MM" wrote in message ... I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. Lots of time and lots of work! I did this for an area roughly 4*8m winter before last. What I did: Dug to 1 - 2 spade depth turning, removing stones/roots etc and incorporating organic matter. Left for several weeks for weather to break up the clods. Forked over quite deeply and roughly raked - at this stage soil level was still bulked up around 6" above final in the middle. Did the "Hamilton Tread" - big boots, shuffle over the whole surface weight heavily on the heels Left for several weeks again. Lightly forked. raked re tread - aiming to get a very even lightly compacted bed. Left again. Very lightly forked and raked, then using the path and brick edge as a level, dragged a long baulk of timber across to give an accurate level, skimming and filling as necessary. That lot took from autumn to march. Over the next month, I raked frequently but gently, removing all small stones that appeared each time wearing flat shoes and stepping flatly! late march, spread general growmore type fertilizer. Early April, sowed RHS supplied seed, lightly raked in. erected fishing line bird-mesh over area. Watered every day. 8 weeks later perfectly flat and level, usable lawn A lot of work, but if you want the billiard table.... pk |
#11
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On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 15:12:11 -0000, "Martin Sykes"
wrote: "MM" wrote in message .. . I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. I want to get the most even lawn possible. I am raking and rolling, and it's kind of level, but with pockets and gullies. When I fill these, rake and roll over, I tend to get humps instead. How do the pros do it? I would think the only certain way would be to use formers and a tamping beam as if one were preparing a sand bed for a driveway, then finally loosening the surface before actual sowing. Any hints, web site referrals etc most welcome. MM I've seen the experts using something which looks like a large ( 1m x 2m ) wooden frame with a handle attached to the centre so it pivots. You then drag that over the area much as you would with a rake, but being much larger it gives a much more even result. Yes, such a tool seems to be widely recommended. I've just purchased Hessayon's Lawn Expert book, latest edition (only cost £5.99 at Baytree) and it, too, depicts the use of something large and flat. A ladder is shown. I popped into to Jewson's on the way home to see what timber they have to make one of these gadgets. I reckon a couple of rough-sawn 6" x 1" boards joined in some way and then provided with handles should do the trick. Any pics of such implements on the web anywhere? Two years ago I built my own large soil sifter based on pics on the web. Pics can tell a very good story! MM |
#12
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On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:57:30 +0000, MM wrote:
I've seen the experts using something which looks like a large ( 1m x 2m ) wooden frame with a handle attached to the centre so it pivots. You then drag that over the area much as you would with a rake, but being much larger it gives a much more even result. Yes, such a tool seems to be widely recommended. I've just purchased Hessayon's Lawn Expert book, latest edition (only cost £5.99 at Baytree) and it, too, depicts the use of something large and flat. A ladder is shown. What you propose would need *very* strong arms to use. The one we use is commercially made (sold by LBS), about 80 or 90 cm wide and about 50 cm deep, lightweight metal construction. You will still have quite a bit of raking to do before you can use the 'lute'. pk's post is good advice, it's an incremental process and time is needed to settle and for weeds to germinate between each stage. ================================================= Rod Weed my email address to reply. http://website.lineone.net/~rodcraddock/index.html |
#13
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On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 18:24:30 +0000, Rod
wrote: What you propose would need *very* strong arms to use. The one we use is commercially made (sold by LBS), about 80 or 90 cm wide and about 50 cm deep, lightweight metal construction. You will still have quite a bit of raking to do before you can use the 'lute'. Rod, do you mean one of these? http://www.lbsgardendirect.co.uk/pro...VELAWN&recno=7 MM |
#14
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On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 17:53:33 +0000, MM wrote:
I'm preparing a patch (75 m2) of virgin soil for sowing a lawn. The builder left the area roughly rolled, but I'm now raking and removing stones and getting a fine tilth on top before sowing grass seed. I want to get the most even lawn possible. I am raking and rolling, and it's kind of level, but with pockets and gullies. When I fill these, rake and roll over, I tend to get humps instead. How do the pros do it? I would think the only certain way would be to use formers and a tamping beam as if one were preparing a sand bed for a driveway, then finally loosening the surface before actual sowing. Any hints, web site referrals etc most welcome. Get rid of the roller. All it does is compact the soil under the high spots. Go buy yourself a long 2x4 (or whatever the standard size of framing lumber is in the UK), or even a 2x6 or 2x8. Attach an eyebolt at each end in the long edge, tie a rope between the bolts, and start dragging the thing around. It will scrape down the high spots and move the soil it scrapes off into the low spots. Protocol: dig over and rake. Drag your drag. Then water to settle all the loose soil. (Or, given that you are in the rainy UK, wait a few minutes until the next shower is over.) (Is joke, smile!) Leave for a few days so the loose soil really does settle, then repeat. You might want to consider feeding the area at the same time: between the water and the fertilizer, you will encourage weed seeds to germinate. You can hoe these into oblivion when they are still wee seedlings, and your hoeing will disturb the soil and expose more weed seeds to be annihilated in the next round. If you do this for a fairly long period, say until the end of this coming summer, there will be many fewer weed seeds in your soil and your lawn will be correspondingly more nearly weed free. Lots of work and time? Yes, definitely, but you don't get something for nothing. And gardening is an activity that demands patience to attain good results. HTH -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, BC, Canada to send email, change atlantic to pacific and invalid to net |
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