I just wanted to say thanks for this reply because my JD GT262 has just
developed this same problem. I put in a new battery (only $15 at Wal-Mart,
so no biggie to do that) and ran it for a bit. The battery light glowed
fully strong the whole time. I intend to try do perform the tasks you noted
below, so thanks.
Tomes

Bob M wrote in message
om...
: The Kohler system is pretty simple and thus easy to troubleshoot. I
: just finished adding this system to my garden tractor (John Deere
: model 208, K181 8HP engine).
:
: 1) There are permanent magnets mounted on the flywheel that are used
: to excite the stator coil (generator electricity). Make sure they are
: there. They sometimes come off. If this has happened, it gets pretty
: messy under the flywheel. I have read that they can be re-attached
: with glue, but I am not sure I would try that.
:
: 2) The typical 15 amp stator coil is an 18 pole series wound single
: coil with a 2 wire output. You can use an ohm meter to verify that it
: is not open (ie no broken /burned wires) or shorted to ground (likely
: caused by burning or mechanical failure). The coil should read 0 ohms
: between the 2 wires and infinitely between either wire and the frame
: of the stator.
:
: 3) The stator connects to a rectifier/regulator assembly. Kohler uses
: a very simple 3 terminal assembly. The 2 outside terminals (called AC)
: connect to the stator. With the engine running, you should find
: anywhere from 8 to 28 volts using a volt meter on the AC scale,
: depending on the RPM of the engine (idle to 3600 RMP). Using the same
: meter, switch to DC volts and measure the voltage between the middle
: terminal (called B+) and the case of the assembly (ground connection).
: Here you should see about 14 to 15 volts with the engine reving better
: than 2,000 RPM. NOTE: Even though the assembly has only 3 terminals,
: it requires 4 to operate. The fourth is the case which MUST BE
: GROUNDED and thus connected to the negative of the battery. If this
: connection is open, you will not charge the battery.
:
: 4) To verify that the battery is connected to the regulator properly,
: stop the engine but turn the ignition switch back on. Repeat the about
: DC meter test. Between the regulator's centre terminal (the B+ one)
: and the case (the ground connection). You should measure 12 volts
: coming from the battery. If you don't, you have an open circuit
: between the regulator and your battery. You need to follow connection
: from the B+ terminal on the regulator into the harness back to the
: ignition switch, through that contact to the battery through the
: circuit breaker.
:
: To recap, make sure there are magnets on the flywheel, that stator
: winding isn't broken, the regulator/rectifier is functioning, and it
: is connected to the battery.
:
: Best of luck!
:
: Bob Morgoch MT (Master Tinkerer)
:
:
: Stephen Kurzban wrote in message
...
: Check the voltage on the battery terminals before starting,
: then at cutting speed - if not higher after starting then
: the charging system is either not functioning or not
: charging the battery.
:
: Possible culprits include, but are not limited to; bad
: connections, defective alternator coil(s), bad diode, open
: protection circuit such as fuse or breaker, current drain
: such as shorted wiring.
:
: Patch wrote:
:
: About the only way to tell is to run it & see if the battery goes
down. If
: you had the right equipment you could put an ammeter in series with
the
: battery & see if it is charging.
:
: "Dave" wrote in message
: m...
: i have 10 hp kohler engine (the engine was probably made in the mid
: 70's) that seems to drain the battery when the engine is running. i
: replaced the rectifier but am not sure if that has fixed the
problem.
: any ideas?
:
: i orginally replaced the battery, but quickly found that was not the
: problem.
:
: -david