For those areas where the vegetative 'hooks' cannot find purchase, the plant
excretes calcium carbonate at the ends of small aerial roots along the woody
stem that can.

Dave

"Alexander Pensky" wrote in message
...
Pam wrote:
I'd have to chime in with David on this one. I have never seen a
climbing
hydrangea do any damage to a structure, regardless of its construction.
And
since it is a deciduous climber, it is unlikely to retain much in the
way of
moisture against the side of a building. Because of its clinging
mechanism, it
doesn't attach itself well to a trellis anyway, but needs a broad,
relatively
flat surface to adhere to. FWIW, I find they bloom better with at least
a few
hours of sun each day - and they will develop better fall color also.

pam - gardengal



David J Bockman wrote:


I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this
subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep',
but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to
the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave



Pam / Dave:

In your experience does climbing hydrangea need a porous wall surface
like brick, or real wood shingles, or can it grip a smooth surface, such
as siding? I am trying to grow it on the side of a garage which is made
from painted siding made of compressed wood pulp. This is the first
year and it's only gone a few inches up the siding, so I can't tell yet
if it is going to hold fast or not.

- Alex