"pelirojaroja" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

After much search, I am ready to plant a very nice, large 3-ft tall
climbing
hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris). I have one of two sites in
mind,
though.

One is in fairly deep shade, and the vine can climb over and around the
railings of the north-facing front porch.

The other potential site is on the western edge of this same porch, where
the vine can climb up the railing corner and possibly up the side of the
house. It will receive more sun in this area -- qualifying it as a
"partial
sun" location (afternoon sun, but shaded in part by the house next door).

I think it would look great if this vine would grow up the side/corner of
the house. However, my house has vinyl siding. Although the web sites
I've read say "Its climbing stems cling to whatever it is growing on" --
I'm wondering if this means siding, too? Or is the siding too slippery
and
impenetrable for the stems?

Any advice much appreciated.

-- pelirojaroja


Yes, it will cling and yes, you will regret it. Vine covered houses have a
"charm myth" about them. What they are instead are maintainence nightmares
with lots of water infiltration problems. Even with vinyl siding, the
additional water held right against your house will find a way in. And, if
you ever decide to remove the vine when you do have a problem, those little
suckers can be a nightmare to remove. Instead, make a free standing trellis
or attach it to your eaves and let the vine grow up it.

Sunflower
MS 7b

I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep', but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave

"pelirojaroja" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

After much search, I am ready to plant a very nice, large 3-ft tall
climbing
hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris). I have one of two sites in
mind,
though.

One is in fairly deep shade, and the vine can climb over and around the
railings of the north-facing front porch.

The other potential site is on the western edge of this same porch, where
the vine can climb up the railing corner and possibly up the side of the
house. It will receive more sun in this area -- qualifying it as a
"partial
sun" location (afternoon sun, but shaded in part by the house next door).

I think it would look great if this vine would grow up the side/corner of
the house. However, my house has vinyl siding. Although the web sites
I've read say "Its climbing stems cling to whatever it is growing on" --
I'm wondering if this means siding, too? Or is the siding too slippery
and
impenetrable for the stems?

Any advice much appreciated.

-- pelirojaroja

I should clarify: By 'deep', I am referring to the distance from the
structure the vine will grow in an outwards direction.

Dave

"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this
subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep', but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to
the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave

"pelirojaroja" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

After much search, I am ready to plant a very nice, large 3-ft tall
climbing
hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris). I have one of two sites in
mind,
though.

One is in fairly deep shade, and the vine can climb over and around the
railings of the north-facing front porch.

The other potential site is on the western edge of this same porch,
where
the vine can climb up the railing corner and possibly up the side of the
house. It will receive more sun in this area -- qualifying it as a
"partial
sun" location (afternoon sun, but shaded in part by the house next
door).

I think it would look great if this vine would grow up the side/corner
of
the house. However, my house has vinyl siding. Although the web sites
I've read say "Its climbing stems cling to whatever it is growing
on" --
I'm wondering if this means siding, too? Or is the siding too slippery
and
impenetrable for the stems?

Any advice much appreciated.

-- pelirojaroja

Yes, I did indeed research this plant's gripping method with regard to
potential structure damage. Every data I have seen has proclaimed the
vine's "non-damaging" nature. If anyone has evidence otherwise, I
would be most interested.

I've seen a 30-year-old Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris up close,
climbing up the side of an old brick house. I could detect no damage
to the structure (at least, no more so than the rest of the 50+-year
brick and mortar looked). The homeowner (my aunt) has not experienced
any problems from the vine -- it's a striking and very distinctive
part of her home.

My main concern is whether to plant it so that it gets some P.M. sun,
or no direct sun. However, I do thank the other posters for their
well-intentioned warnings.

-- pelirojaroja



"David J Bockman" wrote in message . ..
I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep', but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave

"pelirojaroja" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

After much search, I am ready to plant a very nice, large 3-ft tall
climbing
hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris). I have one of two sites in
mind,
though.

One is in fairly deep shade, and the vine can climb over and around the
railings of the north-facing front porch.

The other potential site is on the western edge of this same porch, where
the vine can climb up the railing corner and possibly up the side of the
house. It will receive more sun in this area -- qualifying it as a
"partial
sun" location (afternoon sun, but shaded in part by the house next door).

I think it would look great if this vine would grow up the side/corner of
the house. However, my house has vinyl siding. Although the web sites
I've read say "Its climbing stems cling to whatever it is growing on" --
I'm wondering if this means siding, too? Or is the siding too slippery
and
impenetrable for the stems?

Any advice much appreciated.

-- pelirojaroja

I'd have to chime in with David on this one. I have never seen a climbing
hydrangea do any damage to a structure, regardless of its construction. And
since it is a deciduous climber, it is unlikely to retain much in the way of
moisture against the side of a building. Because of its clinging mechanism, it
doesn't attach itself well to a trellis anyway, but needs a broad, relatively
flat surface to adhere to. FWIW, I find they bloom better with at least a few
hours of sun each day - and they will develop better fall color also.

pam - gardengal



David J Bockman wrote:

I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep', but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave

"pelirojaroja" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

After much search, I am ready to plant a very nice, large 3-ft tall
climbing
hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris). I have one of two sites in
mind,
though.

One is in fairly deep shade, and the vine can climb over and around the
railings of the north-facing front porch.

The other potential site is on the western edge of this same porch, where
the vine can climb up the railing corner and possibly up the side of the
house. It will receive more sun in this area -- qualifying it as a
"partial
sun" location (afternoon sun, but shaded in part by the house next door).

I think it would look great if this vine would grow up the side/corner of
the house. However, my house has vinyl siding. Although the web sites
I've read say "Its climbing stems cling to whatever it is growing on" --
I'm wondering if this means siding, too? Or is the siding too slippery
and
impenetrable for the stems?

Any advice much appreciated.

-- pelirojaroja

Pam wrote:
I'd have to chime in with David on this one. I have never seen a climbing
hydrangea do any damage to a structure, regardless of its construction. And
since it is a deciduous climber, it is unlikely to retain much in the way of
moisture against the side of a building. Because of its clinging mechanism, it
doesn't attach itself well to a trellis anyway, but needs a broad, relatively
flat surface to adhere to. FWIW, I find they bloom better with at least a few
hours of sun each day - and they will develop better fall color also.

pam - gardengal



David J Bockman wrote:


I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep', but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave



Pam / Dave:

In your experience does climbing hydrangea need a porous wall surface
like brick, or real wood shingles, or can it grip a smooth surface, such
as siding? I am trying to grow it on the side of a garage which is made
from painted siding made of compressed wood pulp. This is the first
year and it's only gone a few inches up the siding, so I can't tell yet
if it is going to hold fast or not.

- Alex

When a large old climbing hydrangea is removed from a wall, it will leave
the wall severely stained & in need of sanding & repainting. It will cling
so well to cedar shingles that a few shingles are bound to come loose when
the vines are pulled free. But the little tiny hair-roots do not penetrate
surfaces, nor run under shingles, nor cause structural damage to masonry.
It loves to climb the bark of large trees, & causes no harm to trees.
It's basicly harmless.

The same can be said of Schizophragma hydrangeoides, which can likewise
cover an entire large wall. In winter, climbing hydrangea's orange hairy
limbs are more beautiful than Schizophragma's dark twigs, but in most
other regards, Schizophragma is a nicer large vine. Its leaves are
prettier & more delicate looking, with the variety called "Moonlight"
having veined pewter leaves of great beauty. The flowers are large bright
lacecaps whereas the common climbing hydrangea has a cluster of small
green flowers circled by larger sterile white petals & only half as showy.
Both have good autumn leaf colors.

Hydrangea anamolis can become a very thick wall shrub hanging far from a
wall, whereas Schizophragma to large extent clings closer against a wall.
Schizophragma establishes more quickly than does Hydrangea anamolis,
although neither establish swiftly; with small starts of either, much
patience is required to see them start doing much. The hydrangea is
perhaps overly common in some areas, whereas Schizophragma is not over
utilized, plus it has more varieties to select from, though none are so
easy to find as H. anomolis. A big healthy start of H. anamolis is fairly
cheap, but if you can find a large S. hydrangeoides, it'll be expensive.

If I could have only one or the other it would be the Schizophragma, but
I'm happy to have both.

-paghat the ratgirl

--
"Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher.
"Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature.
-from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers"
See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/

For those areas where the vegetative 'hooks' cannot find purchase, the plant
excretes calcium carbonate at the ends of small aerial roots along the woody
stem that can.

Dave

"Alexander Pensky" wrote in message
...
Pam wrote:
I'd have to chime in with David on this one. I have never seen a
climbing
hydrangea do any damage to a structure, regardless of its construction.
And
since it is a deciduous climber, it is unlikely to retain much in the
way of
moisture against the side of a building. Because of its clinging
mechanism, it
doesn't attach itself well to a trellis anyway, but needs a broad,
relatively
flat surface to adhere to. FWIW, I find they bloom better with at least
a few
hours of sun each day - and they will develop better fall color also.

pam - gardengal



David J Bockman wrote:


I have to take up a contrary position to the other posters on this
subject.
Hydrangea anamolis petiolaris will not damage those surfaces to which it
clings. It does need support as it will become quite woody and 'deep',
but
it won't damage via its gripping mechanism, which is either vegetative
'hooks' or by excreting pure calcium carbonate which cements the stem to
the
structure. A great choice for the sites you mentioned!

Dave



Pam / Dave:

In your experience does climbing hydrangea need a porous wall surface
like brick, or real wood shingles, or can it grip a smooth surface, such
as siding? I am trying to grow it on the side of a garage which is made
from painted siding made of compressed wood pulp. This is the first
year and it's only gone a few inches up the siding, so I can't tell yet
if it is going to hold fast or not.

- Alex

David J Bockman wrote:
For those areas where the vegetative 'hooks' cannot find purchase, the plant
excretes calcium carbonate at the ends of small aerial roots along the woody
stem that can.

Dave

"Alexander Pensky" wrote in message
...

Pam / Dave:

In your experience does climbing hydrangea need a porous wall surface
like brick, or real wood shingles, or can it grip a smooth surface, such
as siding? I am trying to grow it on the side of a garage which is made
from painted siding made of compressed wood pulp. This is the first
year and it's only gone a few inches up the siding, so I can't tell yet
if it is going to hold fast or not.

- Alex


Thanks Dave, it sounds like I'm all set then. I have 3 little two-foot
vines started about six feet apart along a 22 ft. northwest-facing wall
(gets a lot of afternoon sun). I'm hoping within 5 years or so I have
something really nice looking. I'm going to go without the trellis,
since I rarely if ever expect to need to repaint that wall.

- Alex

Would love to have a Schizophragma hydrangeoides. However, since I am
in Zone 5 (esp. the front yard microclime), my nursery guy said that
the hydrangea anamolis was a better choice. Maybe I'll have the other
(and the China Blue vine, which is another lovely shady climber)
someday when I move my old bones to a warmer zone!

-- pelirojaroja



(paghat) wrote in message ...
When a large old climbing hydrangea is removed from a wall, it will leave
the wall severely stained & in need of sanding & repainting. It will cling
so well to cedar shingles that a few shingles are bound to come loose when
the vines are pulled free. But the little tiny hair-roots do not penetrate
surfaces, nor run under shingles, nor cause structural damage to masonry.
It loves to climb the bark of large trees, & causes no harm to trees.
It's basicly harmless.

The same can be said of Schizophragma hydrangeoides, which can likewise
cover an entire large wall. In winter, climbing hydrangea's orange hairy
limbs are more beautiful than Schizophragma's dark twigs, but in most
other regards, Schizophragma is a nicer large vine. Its leaves are
prettier & more delicate looking, with the variety called "Moonlight"
having veined pewter leaves of great beauty. The flowers are large bright
lacecaps whereas the common climbing hydrangea has a cluster of small
green flowers circled by larger sterile white petals & only half as showy.
Both have good autumn leaf colors.

Hydrangea anamolis can become a very thick wall shrub hanging far from a
wall, whereas Schizophragma to large extent clings closer against a wall.
Schizophragma establishes more quickly than does Hydrangea anamolis,
although neither establish swiftly; with small starts of either, much
patience is required to see them start doing much. The hydrangea is
perhaps overly common in some areas, whereas Schizophragma is not over
utilized, plus it has more varieties to select from, though none are so
easy to find as H. anomolis. A big healthy start of H. anamolis is fairly
cheap, but if you can find a large S. hydrangeoides, it'll be expensive.

If I could have only one or the other it would be the Schizophragma, but
I'm happy to have both.

-paghat the ratgirl

I've found it helps to give the vine a bit of support system to get established. For
the climbing hydrangea growing up my Douglas fir, I wrapped a portion of the base of
the tree trunk with large gauge chicken wire and planted the hydrangea directly in
front, training the end tendrils up through the wire. Now the vine climbs about
15-18 feet upt the tree and you can see no trace of the wire, which is totally
obscured by the vine. Even in winter without foliage, all one sees is the tracery of
the vine stems against the tree. For a client's vine growing up a large concrete
retaining wall we used heavy test fishing line attached with eye hooks to get the
vine established and trained against the wall. The fishing line is virtually
invisible.

Once established and with a fairly flat surface to grow against, the vines are
self-supporting.

pam - gardengal



Alexander Pensky wrote:

Pam / Dave:

In your experience does climbing hydrangea need a porous wall surface
like brick, or real wood shingles, or can it grip a smooth surface, such
as siding? I am trying to grow it on the side of a garage which is made
from painted siding made of compressed wood pulp. This is the first
year and it's only gone a few inches up the siding, so I can't tell yet
if it is going to hold fast or not.

- Alex

Pam wrote:
I've found it helps to give the vine a bit of support system to get established. For
the climbing hydrangea growing up my Douglas fir, I wrapped a portion of the base of
the tree trunk with large gauge chicken wire and planted the hydrangea directly in
front, training the end tendrils up through the wire. Now the vine climbs about
15-18 feet upt the tree and you can see no trace of the wire, which is totally
obscured by the vine. Even in winter without foliage, all one sees is the tracery of
the vine stems against the tree. For a client's vine growing up a large concrete
retaining wall we used heavy test fishing line attached with eye hooks to get the
vine established and trained against the wall. The fishing line is virtually
invisible.

Once established and with a fairly flat surface to grow against, the vines are
self-supporting.

Thanks Pam, I have already been using fishing line to train the sweet
autumn clematis, so now I will probably do the same for the hydrangea.

- Alex