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Old 17-09-2003, 01:04 AM
Wendy
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to change soil PH without creating deadly salts ?


Hi "gmv" I have one of these trees in the family of Caesalpiniaceae?
I got it as a stick about 15" long put it in the ground about 20 years ago!
We now have to pay big bucks to have it removed. It is damaging the brick
planter bed & the concrete sidewalk.
I wished I had put it in a large container. I am sure it will do well as a
giant bonsai tree. Grown in say about half a 55 gal drum or whiskey barrel.
Cheers Wendy

"gmv" wrote in message ...
The tree of interest is called an ORCHID tree better
known as a Bauhinia tree.
The only reason I posted my question here was because
it is about an Orchid thingy.
I have received the best results posting in this
particular group because the people here
seem to know more about plants in general.
Simply acidifying the soil is not an option
because it seems in the PH change deadly salts are generated
causing the ends of the leaves to go necrotic.
Changing the soil all together now seems like the
only feasible option. Either that or using a pot.
I have never seen a Bauhinia grown in a pot before.
It would have to be a monster pot.
30 feet in diameter or so.
It looks like oleanders are the only way to go here.



"Rob Halgren" typed in message ...
Dewitt wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:39:02 -0400, "Ted Byers"
wrote:



But, I can't give you any specific advice on changing the pH of your soil
since I have not had to do that.



Powder sulfur can be used to acidify soils to some extent, but it is
normally used for small areas and it would be difficult to acidify the
entire root zone for a tree and keep it that way for the life of a the
tree. Best to find trees that are suitable for your soil rather than
trying to modify your soil.

deg


Remarkably nobody has commented on this being an 'orchard' not an
'orchid' question...

But the answer is compost. Lots and lots of compost. That is the only
long term way to fix any dirt. Makes acid soil more alkaline, and
alkaline soil more acid. Amend soil liberally, and keep a good thick
layer of organic mulch over the root zone (but away from the trunk).
You will need to refresh your mulch at least once every two years,
depending on what you use. I use stable litter, myself.

If you want to fix it fast, then there are any number of bagged products
you can buy at the nursery. Sulphur certainly works in the short
term. Use according to the label directions. Better yet, pay up for a
real soil test (around here, the county ag extension office will do it,
and fairly cheap), and follow their recommendations. Or, if you really
have to fix it, regardless of cost, bulldoze/backhoe out the bad dirt,
and spend good money for new dirt. That, I'm afraid, is only suitable
for the millionaires among us.

As Ted notes, better to find the appropriate tree for your soil. Here
is a representative link on the futility of the whole thing...
http://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/new.../daa04d05.html

You know, you can grow perfectly good fruit trees in pots... Use
dwarfing rootstock, and protect the pots in the winter. And keep the
damn mice from girdling the trunks of your expensive and bearing sized
potted beauties right after you move to a house where the dirt _is_
suitable... Grrr.

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit