But I didn't really respond clearly about when to withold water, as that
is really a critical time. What I do is water most Catasetums rather
well when in warm weather, when they can grow over 1 inch a week. In
fall most of them slow down and plump up their bulbs. I keep watering
almost as heavily as when in full growth, but let them get fairly dry
between waterings, but not for long periods of dryness. Then, as the
wintery dark days set in, I extend the times between waterings, watching
the bulbs and watering to keep them from shriveling. Then, usually in
December, the plants will get yellow leaves that drop off. Now is the
time to start cutting back on water, and when all the leaves are gone,
stop watering. In fact, on many plants I don't water them at all until
new growth is well along, often 2 or even 3 months of dormancy. Ctsm.
pileatum, acording to Holst, has a short dormancy, but in my experience
they can go dormant into early March. Then, when new growth starts, hold
off on all watering and especially fertilizing until the new growth is
putting out a good flush of roots. Just before the growth is too big I
usually repot, though I get very good results going 2 years between
repottings (unless in sphagnum), contrary to common lore. But the period
of formation of the new young growth is another very touchy time for
Catasetums, as premature water can result in a very quick death, if not
the loss of the new growth. But even if your plant looks terribly
shriveled up (which rarely happens), mine often completely plump up
within 1 or 2 days of watering again in the spring. Then, growth can be
extremely fast. Watch out for red spider...don't even let them get one!

I have never used the techniques of unpotting the plants during their
dormancy. This is probably not needed in most small collections, and can
result in lost labels and such. However, in a greenhouse, protect plants
from winter condensation drips. I lost a very nice Mormodes in a single
night of dribbles that landed smack on the bulbs of the plant. By
morning the plant was entirely a gushy mass of rotten gunk. It really
can happen that fast! Catasetums, however, are much more resistant to
these kinds of rots than Mormodes and Cycnoches. Rots, for me, have
occured, but almost always in newly acquired plants. After I have them
for a season or two, they seem impervious to rot almost. I can't quite
explain why this is fully. I have a theory there is something in our
water.

Bob

"Wendy" wrote in news:I8fwb.6063$ML6.464
@fed1read01:

Your Catasetum pileatum is lovely Robert. Many
thanks for the growing tips.




--
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* Bob Dickow ) *
* Hampton School of Music *
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