Hal wrote:

A stand pipe would be a great fix. I don't think that a simple friction
fit into that hold under the dome will be reliable however, even a tiny
leak will eventually fill the pipe. However, I found a simple one. The
key is that I can't let the end of the pipe get cold enough to freeze. I
built an enclosure around the pipes and pump area, insulated it and am
designing a thermostatically controlled circuit to turn a 20 watt light
bulb on when the temp falls below 35 degrees F. The enclosure has both
the bottom drain intake up from the ground and the pump output to the
filter within it. What is under the ground is a "who cares" since that is
protected by being almost three feet under the ground. Where the pipes
are above ground that either has no water in it or comes out within my
enclosure, which is heated. It doesn't take much to heat 8-10 cubic feet
of space, that 20 watt bulb should do, but I'll go to 25 or 40 if need be,
that is CHEAP compared to 1500 watt water heaters and 300 watt pumps.

I think that this will do the job nicely, simply and inexpensively. If
anyone is interested in a similar solution, I'll make my design available
should interest make it useful.

thanks for the ideas guys,
DLC
: On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 01:10:14 GMT, "RichToyBox"
: wrote:

:You wouldn't have to drain the pipe completely, just enough to get the water
:level 18 inches or so below ground level. A stand pipe down into the bottom
:drain would allow you to pump the piping dry without affecting the water
:level in the pond.

: I like your idea about the stand pipe, but I couldn't remember a
: thread or fitting I could seal a pipe in mine after I removed the
: bottom drain dome. That would be the ideal fix.

: Regards,

: Hal

--
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* Dennis Clark www.techtoystoday.com *
* "Programming and Customizing the OOPic Microcontroller" Mcgraw-Hill 2003 *
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