RoyDMercer wrote:

I'm sure the product is called Image. It lists the active ingredient
as Ammonium salt of imazaquin.

"Anonymous" wrote in message
news:Q197c.52803$po.507954@attbi_s52...
You say you use "Image" to control nutsedge. I use a product
called "Manage" made by Monsanto. Have you perhaps confused the
name or is there another product on the market to control nutsedge.
I'd be curious to know. I've had very good luck with Manage. I's
very specific and doesn't seem to harm most turf type grasses
unless one goes WAY overboard on application.

RoyDMercer wrote:

Blank"Tim Perkins" wrote in message
... I'm in Southern
Oklahoma/North Texas Area with St Augustine grass. What type of
fertilizer (weed & feed ) do I need to apply?


Tim,

I live in North Texas also (DFW area). I have Bermuda grass, but

Bermuda
and St Augustine are both warm season grasses with similar
characteristics.
I'm by no means an expert, but here is my advice for what it's
worth.

Never, never, ever buy weed and feed products for warm season
grasses.
It's
a waste of money. The reason is the weed (preemergence) part of
the
product
is best applied early (mid-february) before weeds really get
going. The feed (fertilizer) part of the product is best applied
in May when the
grass
really starts to green up well. Weed and feed products work
better for
cool
season grasses such as rye and fescue when applied just before
the
emergence
of weeds.

It's really too late to apply a preemergence product to your lawn
for
weeds.
What you need is a post emergence product. The type of product
you
should
use depends on the types of weeds you have. Pull up a few of the
weeds
you
are having the biggest problems with and take them to a good
nursery and they can help you identify them.

Here is what I do. What I use first is Weed-B-Gon, but I've used
other similar products with good results also. Read the labels
before you buy because some of these products are not recommended
for St Augustine
grass.
Basically what you're looking for is a broad-leaf selective weed
killer. These products kill weeds, but not grass. I buy the
concentrate and put
it
in a hose-end sprayer, then set the sprayer for the dosage
recommended
by
the product label. I go around my lawn and hit all the weeds
except for crabgrass and nutgrass (nutsedge). If you don't know
how to identify
those
weeds, don't worry about it. In about a week all of your weeds
will be
dead
or dying except for the crabgrass and nutgrass if you have any.
Some products similar to Weed-B-Gon claim they kill broad leaf
weeds along
with
crabgrass and nutgrass, but don't believe it. Crabgrass grows in
big
clumps
(like a crab). Nutgrass looks similar to crabgrass but it
doesn't grow
in
clumps, but generally grows straight up. If I only have a few
weeds, I
keep
Weed-B-Gon mixed up in a small 32 oz sprayer which I use to spot
treat
small
weed investations.

Crabgrass and nutgrass are harder nuts to crack and there are
only a few postemergence options. First is Round-up or some
other full spectrum herbicide. These products kill everything
that's green. If it's green,
and
you spray it, it will die. This includes grass, shrubs, and even
trees.
If
your grass is completely brown and dormant you can hit the
crabgrass
with
Round-up and you'll be OK. If the grass is green and you spray
the crabgrass, you're going to have a big brown spot in your lawn
all around
the
sprayed area. Round-up is effective only on the green part of
plants.
I
use it right up to my trees and shrubs. You can even spray it on
the
bark
of a tree or shrub as long as you don't hit any green areas.
Later on
in
the season products called MSMA and CSMA work well on crabgrass,
but
they
only work in very hot weather. I'm not sure if they can be used
on St. Augustine. The only selective product I've found that
works on nutgrass
is
a product called Image. Image is very expensive and should be
applied
in
late-May, early June for best effect. Again I'm not sure if it's
OK on
St
Augustine. Always read the labels carefully.

Apply fertilizer in mid-May. On the fertilizer bag, you'll see
three numbers such as 10-20-10. These numbers are the ratio of
nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium respectively. In our area,
phosphorous is usually abundant in the soil and potassium is not
important until your
fall
fertilizer application (potassium helps with wintering). What
you want
to
look for is a product that has a high first number with the other
two numbers low such as 9-1-1, or 20-5-5. I like to use products
which are
slow
release (such as Scotts) that contain iron. Then I reapply
fertilizer
when
my lawn looks like it needs greening up (about every 6 weeks but
less
often
later in the summer). If you use a non-slow release fertilizer
(they
are
cheaper), use less and probably every 3-4 weeks or so. Many
nurseries offer free soil sampling and they can tell you exactly
what your
fertilizer
needs are.





See http://www.pestproducts.com/herbicides.htm