Thread: Phosphate
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Old 21-05-2004, 05:09 PM
 
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Default Phosphate

"kevin.gomez" wrote in message news:u7hrc.89202$iF6.7746947@attbi_s02...
Hi,

The tap water at my work place has a pH of 7.8. So far when I've done water
changes in my planted tank at work, I've been lowering the pH (to ~6.8)
using a commercial kit which uses sodium biphosphate. Recently I've noticed
that my phosphate level is 2ppm. Is there another way to lower pH of the
clean water without resorting to installing an RO system etc.

Thank you in advance.

Kevin


If this is a plant tank, adding acid "buffers"(techincally they are
not "buffers") to lower pH is the last thing you want to do.
If you want a lower pH, CO2 is what the plants want and need. PO4 is
used also but you don't need 2ppm really, but it will not cause algae
as many seem to incorrectly assume.

The folks getting BBA, it has virtually nothing to do with PO4 or NO3.
BBA will still grow without detectable levels using a Lamott test kit,
so you are NOT going to control or limit it's growth in that manner.

If BBA appears due to excess PO4, how come I have not had it as have
many others for a decades? My PO4 is in excess of 1ppm and clearly the
algae have plenty of access to the PO4 in the water column. Others
have gone to 2ppm and never seen a lick of PO4.

Why would PO4 cause algae in some people's tanks yet not mine or many
others?
Magic? My tanks grow any aquatic plant species and algae free as they
have for many years, I add PO4 to my tanks. See below. Also see DFW
and SFBAAPS clubs. They have been dosing PO4 for a long time(7-8
years). SeaChem makes PO4 supplements for plant tanks.

If you raise the CO2 to 20-30ppm for the entire photoperoid and keep
it at that level consistently, BBA will stop growing. Try it. Then you
can see for yourself and stop going on a wild goose chase.

That's the issue, not PO4 or NO3 etc.You need these for decent plant
growth, but you need good CO2 before these can be considered.

Rather than tail chasing after algae, chase the needs of the plants,
give them good CO2, ample supplies of NO3, PO4, K, GH, Traces, pH is
only good in terms of measuring the CO2 by the KH/pH relationship.

A specific pH does not mean much without some other factor/measurement
included.

BTW, it is a myth that plants prefer soft water, low pH's or require
RO water.
Dr. Bowes has show the opposite in his research on aquatic
photosynthesis of FW macrophytes.

Here's a FW tank of mine with lots of PO4, extremely hard water(KH11,
GH 24):
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view

Don't worry about your tap water's pH, it really does not make much
difference and there are several reasons for this.

Regards,
Tom Barr